Not always so familiar…
The words Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale roll off my tongue fairly readily these days, but it was not always so. Sometimes, when something has become very familiar in one’s life, it’s easy to forget the time that it was not always so familiar. That would be the case for me with Balsamic Vinegar.
Man on the ground in Italy…
Not the case for Don Vito de Carolis, Avanti Savoia’s intrepid man on the ground in Italy. Vito personally knows the producers and carefully selects the Italian products marketed by Avanti Savoia. Although Vito has upgraded and expanded my knowledge of Italy’s “liquid gold”, my introduction to it was over 30 years ago.
Drop by drop…
My first bottle was a gift from Chef Deborah Madison, founding chef at the San Francisco restaurant, Greens in historic Ft. Mason. Greens Restaurant is operated under the auspices of the San Francisco Zen Center and is one of our country’s premier vegetarian restaurants. I carefully brought my treasure home and discovered its pleasure by doling it out drop by drop.
Buyers beware…
Now we see “balsamic vinaigrettes” on fast food menus as well as a range of questionable products lined up on the grocery store shelves. BUYERS BEWARE… there is plenty of fake balsamic vinegar on the market. Many of these vinegars have only their name thing in common with the real thing. Currently, anyone anywhere can legally produce “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena”. They can range from very sweet to pungent and savory. The better quality (and more expensive) are aged at least three years while the “cheapies” are aged only a short time in stainless steel tanks and artificially sweetened and thickened. “Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), is not the same as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar).
Confident of the authenticity…
At Avanti Savoia, we take balsamic vinegars seriously and we are very confident of the authenticity of our entire line. REAL Balsamic Vinegars—the unique and noble “Gold Standard” of Italy—are produced only in the regions of Modena and Reggio Emilia. It has only been during the last few decades that American cooks have discovered balsamic vinegar and elevated it to “rock star” status in the culinary world. In Italy, balsamic vinegar has been prized for centuries. In medieval times, it was valued for its healing properties. For a thousand years, wealthy Italian families have produced balsamic vinegar for their own use.
Royalty and only the most fortunate guests...
Fine aged balsamic vinegars were considered treasured family heirlooms, often as part of a bride’s dowry. Considered “liquid gold,” small kegs of balsamic vinegar could be slowly consumed or even sold if economic conditions warranted. On special occasions, royalty and only the most fortunate guests might receive balsamic vinegar as a gift.
A select group of hoteliers...
At a recent event in Phoenix, Arizona, Avanti Savoia had the opportunity to showcase some of our more impressive balsamics at a tasting for a select group of hoteliers. Our invitation came from one of Phoenix’s premier caterers, Creative Hands Cuisine.
Sound familiar…
Owner and Executive Chef Doug Brochu and his wife/partner Camille Brochu describe their fare as “contemporary American Cuisine paired with a Mediterranean flair”. Sound familiar? The same concept could definitely be used to describe our attitude at Avanti Savoia.
The city of Phoenix’s “Point of Pride”…
The caterers provided really top notch fare at the location of the event, which was an elegant home perched on the side of Camelback Mountain, the city of Phoenix’s “Point of Pride”. The view of the sunset over the skyline of Phoenix was a stunning backdrop for a stunning event.
Our stellar products…
Avanti Savoia provided a Balsamic tasting bar with four of our stellar products. Included in this lineup were the following:
Acetaia Palatrini (Modena) Extra Vecchio 50 years
Giuseppe Giusti (Modena) Extra Vecchio 25 years
IL Borgo Gold (Reggio-Emilia) (Gold Corresponds to Extra Vecchio) 25 years
Giuseppe Giusti (Modena) Gold Medal Traditional 12 years
See our entire line of fine Balsamic.
Two of our most popular olive oils…
We also enhanced the tasting by including two of our most popular extra virgin olive oils; Paolo Cassini S’ciappau Gran Cru produced from the Taggiasca olive from the Linguria region of Northwest Italy and an organic oil, Marcinase pressed from the Coratina olive in the the Puglia region, the “boot heel” of Italy.
Several options…
The caterer provided a spread of delights to compliment our tasting including artisan breads, grapes, strawberries, chocolate, ice cream and a luscious platter of fine cheeses. We suggested several options to the guests for their tasting progression. For those interested in a serious comparative experience the plan was simply to taste the balsamics in the order of their ages.
The classic Italian manner of tasting…
That was accomplished by small amounts in demitasse spoons or in the classic Italian manner of tasting a small drop directly from the back of the hand. There were also those guests that wanted to sample different balsamics with the different foods. As is always the case with balsamic tastings, it was great fun to introduce the uninitiated to the joys of combining fine balsamic vinegar with strawberries or ice cream. The consensus favorite had to be the Giuseppe Giusti Extra Vecchio. This 25 year old beauty amazed us all with its deep round flavors full of delicate nuances. For much more information on Giuseppe Giusti and all things balsamic, read our post A Vinegar Primer.
Salt Maestro…
We also had an excellent time with the Salt Maestro, Mark Bitterman. Mark had also been invited to the event to share his love of gourmet salts and of course, there was much discussion between the two of us. Try Mark’s suggestion of a tiny pinch of fine salt on a strawberry drizzled with a 50 year Balsamic. WOW! Mark is the author of the amazingly beautiful new book, SALTED. For more info visit his website, www.the meadow.net
Thank you to Sara…
A last word about the staff of Creative Hands Cuisine – perfection; organized, skilled and focused. It was a pleasure to be their guest and I must offer a truly genuine thank you to Sara, my hard working attendant; she made a special evening infinitely more pleasant!
Viva Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale!
Showing posts with label avant savoia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label avant savoia. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Monday, June 15, 2009
SUPER DUPER DAD’S DAY SPECIAL

June 21st
It is also time to be thinking about the next popular celebration on the horizon, Father’s Day. The first recorded observation of an American Father’s Day occurred on June 19, 1910. But it was left to then President Richard Nixon to establish our permanent observation of Father’s Day on the 3rd Sunday in June.
Those… that… contributed to the quality of our lives
We think that it is a great idea to acknowledge not only our Fathers, but also those Father figures that mentored us and contributed to the quality of our lives. This is easy enough to do with a simple greeting or the ubiquitous humorous card. Father’s day present giving offers opportunities, both simple and complex.
Gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages
Certainly, gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages and the family’s different stages.
Mangled breakfast in bed and crayon scrawled cards are just fine for young families. Teens probably will focus on gifts pertaining to Dad’s sporting interests and hobbies (like cooking, for instance). However as Dads age and find themselves in the categories of Grand Dads or even Great grand Dads, I think it is fair to note that the game plan can change.
I hate breakfast in bed
I know that in truth, I hate breakfast in bed and I darn sure don’t want more things to clutter up my house and require some kind of care. Cards are just fine, thank you, but the kinds of gifts that I really enjoy now are items that I can consume or immediately use. Like many guys, when I want a new tool or toy, I just go out and buy it. This being said, gift cards at home improvement centers, hardware store or specialty stores are gifts that I really enjoy and will use. (Also, very easy for the giver)!
A first rate dinner for the big guy
Even though eating any food in bed is not my cup of tea, having someone cook for me definitely rings my chimes. This Father’s Day at Avanti Savoia, we thought we would assemble a reasonably priced collection of our products that would make it very easy to “stir up” a first rate dinner for the big guy. Here are a few ideas and Avanti products that could be appropriate for any aged giver or receiver. Preparing our menu is very “kid friendly” and as viable for a beginning family as it is for a romantic occasion for empty nesters. Check this out.
AN AVANTI SAVOIA FATHER’S DAY MENU
Starter: Our savory Onion Cracker (Le Schiacciatine Cipolla) spread with a little goat cheese (Chevre) or cream cheese and topped with our Low Country Garlic Pepper Jelly.
Main: Savoia Egg Fettuccine, (delicious and fast cooking) served with Low Country Tomato Sauce, sautéed Italian sausage and finished with a little shaved Parmesan Reggiano.
Dessert: Creamy Chocolate Brownies using our brand new product, Alchemy Spice Brownie Mix. Add to that a steaming cup of high quality 100% Certified Bolivian or Mexican Coffee from another of our new suppliers, Café Femenino. This is a unique coffee company that benefits women coffee producers. Your purchase helps enable these producers “achieve empowerment, build social and support networks while earning incomes.”
You can get this recipe along with our products from our recipe section. Go to Recipe
Everybody wins
Everybody wins and all that you have to supply from your grocery store is the Chevre or cream cheese, Italian sausage, Parmesan, 1 stick of butter and 2 eggs. Our Super –Duper Dad’s day Special includes all the rest. Our very best Avanti Savoia wishes for a super- duper Father’s Day!
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Thursday, June 11, 2009
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US

Great Quality and Value for You!
Old school personal service
Avanti Savoia is celebrating our third Anniversary and we invite you to join the party. A good party it has been too, but it is only going to get better. Avanti Savoia is (and will continue to be) about authentic quality and old school personal service. From the beginning we have always been passionate about our company. We hope this passion comes through in our personal enthusiasm for our great products. “If we won’t put it on our table, we’ll never ask you to put it on yours.” We are also deeply committed to bring to your table the value and savings that are so absolutely essential in our present economy.
The most competitive prices
We love being your gourmet internet market, but we want to be more. By offering fantastic savings on fantastic products, we are striving to be your everyday online source for true culinary gems. It is our goal to provide carefully selected products that reflect the highest quality with the most competitive prices on the internet or even at your neighborhood grocery store. “Providing Affordable Luxury” is not just an empty marketing ploy. It is a real expression of our philosophy and our mission.
Something exciting about just walking in our door
Working in the office and warehouse of Avanti Savoia often brings to mind images of the old spice and trade caravans. The atmosphere is rich with the aroma of truffles, herbs, spices, coffees and a subtle mélange of dozens of other delights. There is something exciting about just walking in our door.
Samples
Beside the expected examples of modern communication technology, stacks of notes, cookbooks and other reference material, our desks and office tables always seem to have “samples.” Truly samples of “Culinary Treasures from Around the World.”
What exotic flavors will a new day bring?
The tasting of a potential new product is a fun and educational experience for us all at Avanti. Who knows what exotic flavors a new day will bring? It might be a new honey from Hawaii or an excellent coffee from a regional roaster. Maybe it will be a rich new chocolate from a supplier in Europe or South America.
Not quite as formal as a wine tasting
Although our regular tastings are not quite as formal as a wine tasting, they do share some similar techniques. We all silently nibble or sip the particular product to be tasted, ponder it a bit and then each of us express our opinions. More often than not we are in complete agreement, but always learning from the other’s perceptions. It always takes a strong consensus of approval for a new product to be added to the Avanti Savoia “family.”
Restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy
We’ve told the story of our Avanti family before, but it still remains a good story. Avanti Savoia’s founding partners, Doug Slocum and Vito De Carolis have known each other for almost 20 years. First, as associates in the global stone industry, then as good friends visiting and sampling unique specialties at restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy.
Impressive knowledge
Doug became intrigued with “all these marvelous foods and tastes that just weren’t available here.” He says, “the idea came that we would start a business bringing very high-quality gourmet, limited-edition type foods to the US as an internet company.” Turin native, Vito De Carolis was “a natural partner” with his extensive experience traveling the world and his impressive knowledge of cooking and food.
“Serendipity”
Armed with a new MBA, Doug’s son Ben Slocum became president of our company. His expertise in business matters and the world of cyber space is vital to the daily operations of Avanti Savoia. Ben also has had a golden opportunity to develop a world class palate that is certainly unique in the world of business. A chance meeting introduced the trio to me, Joseph Lowery. Doug calls it “serendipity,” I call it an ideal job for an experienced chef that loves to taste, cook, write (and express opinions).
As much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible
Avanti Savoia is striving to provide you with as much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible through Our Blog, Don Vito’s Forum, and two new useful features on our website. Visit our Recipes and Cooking Section for an amazing collection of hundreds of recipes that continues to grow daily. Our customers and readers can even post instructions for their own favorite dishes. We are also proud of our new feature entitled Health and Nutrition, with informative articles written by our own Registered Dietitian, Merry Thomas M.S. R.D. L.D.
Convenient … to combat hunger
We are also well aware that all pantries are not as well stocked as ours. We address this problem by providing a page entitled, Feed the Hungry. This is a feature that makes it convenient when placing an order, to also be able to make a donation locally, nationally or globally to combat hunger.
Passion
Avanti Savoia: passion for authentic quality, personal service, information, education and value and savings.
Thanks for coming to our party!
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Friday, May 29, 2009
THEY’RE BAAACK!
A true gourmet’s delight!
…the forest floor reveals nothing unusual and then…
Every spring we watch the woods for the signs. About the time that the young ferns begin to unfurl and the wood anemones start to bloom, we know that it is time to start looking for the morels. It is always along our creek under a stand of Tulip Poplars that we hope to find them. At first, the forest floor revels nothing unusual and then we find the first one, then the second and as our eyes become more accustomed to looking for them, the easier they are to spot.
“shroom hunting”
This is our second year to be able to share this bounty with Avanti Savoia’s owners, Doug and Ben Slocum. It is becoming a tradition for Ben and I to go “shroom hunting” each April and a tradition that I hope will last a long time. This season Doug actually found his own morels on his property to his obvious delight. He did however; bring them to me for a positive ID.
Being as we shared a post last year with you about morels, we decided to reprint it in part.
“Dry land fish”
Commonly known as the Morel mushrooms, they are also known locally as “dry land fish” and can occur throughout North America. The old-timers were well aware of them and prepared them usually by rolling them in cornmeal and frying them in hot fat. The black morels, Morchella elata seem to be the most available, although we are blessed to be able to find the yellow or white morel, sometimes called the “Honeycomb Morel.” These little gems can grow to be much larger than black morels and are astoundingly succulent.
…springtime ritual…
They can be stuffed and baked, fried, grilled, and cooked a la crème, in sauces, flans, ragouts, omelets and as garnishes in a good many European classics. Although, available dried or canned, it is in their freshest state, prepared simply that we enjoy them the most. This is a true gourmet’s delight, freshly harvested wild morels! We prize this springtime ritual so much, that although choice fresh morels can fetch around $50 a pound this year, we only share them with friends and eat them ourselves.
…the best harvest ever…
Some years produce a generous morel harvest while others do not- it all depends on the amount of rain, when it rains, early spring temperatures, ground temperatures and probably other subtle conditions of which I’m not even aware. I can however, report on how much fun it is to hunt for them and how very delicious they can be. The ‘07 harvest was a bit scarce and ’08 was a good season, but this year (’09) has been the best harvest ever. I have heard “through the grapevine” that other mushroom hunters are experiencing abundant harvests, as well.
“You must be 100% sure of identification”
I also came across a world of useful information on the internet, especially a site entitled
www.thegreatmorel.com – This particular site has the most useful information that I’ve seen so far. They have a comprehensive collection of recipes. Not only lots of mushroom lore, but also identification hints and very clear information about the “false” morel (Gyromitra esculenta, Verpa, Hellvella and Discoiotis) which can be toxic. The false morels only vaguely resemble true morels, but we must insert a word of caution here before sharing a few easy recipes. I have been hunting selected wild mushrooms for over 35 years. I have received instruction from botany teachers from two different universities and field experience with a number of knowledgeable amateurs. I particularly remember the opening words from a retired University of Washington Professor. “Hunting wild mushrooms is a one hundred percent activity. You must be 100% sure of identification, a 99% guess can kill you,” he solemnly warned. Take this to heart! You must be very sure of your harvest! Do not attempt to identify wild mushrooms from a guide book. “Hands on” training is required. That having been said, here are some ideas for preparing fresh morels.
Cleaning:
Cut off the “foot” of the mushroom just above the dirt line. Slice the mushroom lengthwise, lightly rinse and soak them in a solution of salt water for about 1 hour or less. This should remove any bits of sand or soil and dislodge any little critters. Make sure that after removing from the salt water that the morels are well dried before cooking. Some mushroom lovers prefer to forego the soaking, as they feel it takes away from the true mushroom flavor, but I still think that soaking is a good idea.
Grilled:
This is as easy as it gets and fabulous with a nice steak. Again, carefully dry the split morels and brush with one of Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils that have been seasoned with a little minced garlic, salt and pepper. Of course you can jazz it up with herbs, lemon juice, etc., etc., but do not cover up the marvelous fresh mushroom flavor.
Place the seasoned morels over hot coals and cook until they are just lightly marked. Do not overcook these babies and eat ‘em while their hot!
Beer Batter Fried:
Here is a basic recipe for Misto Fritto, classic Italian mixed fried vegetables. It also works great with any kind of mushroom. Also, if you are lucky enough to have fresh squash or pumpkin blossoms from a summer garden, this is also the way to cook them.
Ingredients for batter:
4 eggs, beaten
1/3 cup beer
2 cups all-purpose flour
About 3 cups oil* #19999 Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Oil for frying
Sel de Mer* #35021 (fine sea salt) to taste
Recipe:
1. In a large bowl, beat together the eggs and beer.
2. Place the flour in a large bowl right next to the eggs/beer.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until very hot.
4. Flour the morel pieces, shake off any excess, and dip into the egg mixture.
5. Shake off excess egg and begin frying a few at a time turning as needed to lightly brown. Remove with a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper salt, if desired and enjoy.
Sautéed Morel Sandwiches:
Clean morels as for other recipes. Simply sauté the mushrooms in the hot oil or butter, turning until tender. Place on a paper towel to drain and make a sandwich using toasted whole wheat bread, mustard flavored mayonnaise, fried bacon, and slices of fresh tomato.
NOTE: We usually serve morels with beer or a dry Riesling and have never experience a problem. However some mushroom guides do however warn of upset stomachs when morels are served with alcohol. Proceed with caution!
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
THE GARDEN THING
"A bumper crop of weeds"
MAY ‘08
My wife, Gail and I planted our first garden together in the summer of 1996. We were very excited about it and spent a great deal of time (for the next eleven years) building our soil, tending, harvesting and enjoying. Some years we managed three different seasonal plantings and Gail canned with a passion. Last spring we both faced some health issues and in truth, we were also just really tired of the hard work and daily responsibility. So, for over a year we allowed the garden to “lay fallow” and produce a bumper crop of weeds.
"A reason to escape going to the gym"
However, a good break seems to have been very beneficial, at least for us and maybe for our garden. We have in years past, cultivated thirty two-12 foot rows. Work that was mostly accomplished using hand tools and a lot of effort. I saw the hard labor as a reason to escape going to the gym and there was a real satisfaction from the work and the edible results. This year we have decided that we would invest in some better machinery including a fine new tiller. There is still plenty of exercise involved and it is certainly more practical. We have also cut down on the amount of tilling required by cultivating only the rows in which we plant.
"Certain patterns have emerged"
I have been interested to note the upsurge of interest in gardens this year partly due to the downturn in the economy. I suppose that perhaps money can be saved on groceries by growing your own, but it is not a freebie- not by a long shot. Over our previous years of experience certain patterns have emerged. A half acre of corn proved to be a 3 year exercise in frustration due to the damage from storms, droughts and marauding raccoons. At the rate at which two people can enjoy fresh corn, it is easier and more economical to just purchase it from some local farmers. Any financial savings by way of a garden will be welcome of course, but for us it is really about the fantastic flavor, quality and purity.
We are planting the crops that we have had the best experience with in the past in terms of maintenance and productivity. This year that means tomatoes, peppers, beans, okra, lettuce, onions, greens, cucumbers, eggplants, herbs and flowers.
"That vision of the bounty of beautiful produce"
JUNE ‘08
Gardens always start out as an exercise in some kind of faith. Faith that those seeds will sprout, the seedlings will grow, the bugs and diseases will give you a break and that there will be enough sunlight and rain. How else could anyone put so much work and effort into a project if there wasn’t a great deal of faith that it will succeed? Then there is that vision of the bounty of beautiful produce. Now, after a month or so this particular year’s challenges began to be apparent, as I guess they are every year.
First, we seem to have a problem with our seed crops sprouting, especially the flowers and some of the herbs. Even old reliables like sunflowers are coming up with big gaps or simply not coming up at all. The pepper sets are small and growing very slowly. Everything else seems slow and a little stunted… Hmmm… to replant or not…Hmm.The lettuces and onions are delicious.
We have plenty of fresh basil, 24 feet of in fact. We call it Vito’s Basil Patch in honor of our Italian Partner at Avanti Savoia, Vito De Carolis. There are tomatoes, cukes and okra coming along and there is still hope. I don’t think one can garden without hope.
"RAIN "
It is dry and even though I have been watering, it really is not the same as rain. I am beginning to worry about our crop of wild raspberries. There are plenty of buds but some of the leaves are withering and that means that they are thirsty! We usually harvest around the 4th of July, but for that to happen…well, you know-RAIN. We depend on well water at Cabbage Creek (that’s what we named our little mini-farm) for drinking and living as well as watering the garden. Our well has never run out but I monitor the springs and creek all year just to get a clue about the water table level and it’s not looking good. If we reach a certain point I will be very reluctant to use any more well water than necessary.
Our next issue is sunlight- in the year and a half since we have had a garden, I’m wondering if the surrounding trees have grown just enough to make shade a problem. Removing a bunch of big branches might do it, but that will require some outside assistance.
JULY ‘08
I’ve been monitoring the amount of sunlight in the garden very carefully and I’m now convinced that there is just not quite enough. We are harvesting beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, lettuce, onions, cilantro and basil. But the amount of the harvest is not what it should be by this time of the season. I’m beginning to doubt whether or not there will be any peppers at all.
"Berry pickin’ party"
The rains have come however, and just in time. Not enough to really erase our rainfall deficit, but enough to help out the garden and bring on a decent harvest of raspberries. We look for them to be ripe the first part of July each year and sure enough, they were right on time. We had a “berry pickin’ party” a couple of days after the 4th of July with some friends and family. Baskets full of ripe raspberries are a beautiful sight. Although, I found myself down with a back ache, we did manage a good harvest and a good time. As is our tradition, we enjoyed fresh raspberry Margaritas with our guests.
As the month has slipped by, my priority in the garden has been weeding and mulching.
The weeds not only steal moisture and nourishment, they also block precious sunlight from the less tall plants. The mulching is indispensable in preventing more weed growth and the conservation of moisture along the plant rows.
Finally, the pepper plants are blooming and putting on more foliage, we will probably get a few anyway, but I doubt that they will be prolific. Some seasons we have been almost overwhelmed with the abundance of peppers. Like the old cliché, “feast or famine” this is going to be a thin year for peppers.
AUGUST ‘08
"All the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) "
Summer is half over and the hottest and most humid time of the year is here. In the northern hemisphere this time has been known as “the dog days of summer”, since the time of the Egyptians. As miserable a time as it can be, it is also the heart of the harvest time in our garden as well as the time for fall planting. We already have a row of mixed greens from which we have just now started harvesting, but within the last few days we will have planted radishes, turnips, spinach and a row of lettuce. Each year we usually plant a progression of lettuces over the season, so when one row plays out we have a new one ready to supply us with fresh salads. This is the time that all the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) and that we get to enjoy real garden bounty! We have also been fortunate in as much as the rains have come just in time the last few weeks.
"Okra"
My wife Gail has been busy caning. Beans, pickles and a particularly southern specialty, pickled okra. Okra was brought to America from Africa (some say Ethiopia, actually) and cultivation quickly spread all over the south. Besides being pickled, fresh okra is also enjoyed fried, steamed, braised, boiled and perhaps it is best known as an ingredient in some gumbos. Okra is a food that most people either love or hate. Okra does produce a viscous substance when cooked that is useful as a thickener, although some folks find it “slimy” and reject it on that basis alone. If you have access to the pods when they are very small (about 3 inches) they are delicious and less slimy when lightly steamed and served with Hollandaise sauce.
In just the last few days it is clear that the beans and cukes are on their last leg as expected this time of year. It makes the last of them even “sweeter”, knowing that their time is about over. But as one vegetable fades and takes its final bow, another fills its place. In this case our first good “mess” of mixed greens has arrived and they are excellent.
"Amaranth"
Also, even though I have not yet mentioned it, we have been harvesting and eating Amaranth greens all summer. Amaranth was once considered a weed and in practical terms, in our garden it still is- albeit a delicious and very nutritious one. We first planted it 6 or 7 years ago as a novelty and then discovered just how adapt it is in returning each year. It grows, well like a weed. But instead of just removing it from where it pops up, we eat it. Very similar in flavor and texture to spinach and interchangeable in any recipe calling for spinach, which is a good thing considering that we will probably never be able to get rid of it.
SEPTEMBER ‘08
"The garden is not going to be overgrown this year"
We are thankful that our well water has remained dependable, because we had only one significant rain during the whole month of August. As I have already noted, the 2008 season has not been our most prolific garden but still satisfying enough. Our fall crops are developing nicely, better actually than our spring plantings and the promise of fall is right around the corner. I’m already beginning to think about turning under spent rows and building the soil over the winter. No matter what we decide to plant next spring, the garden is not going to be overgrown this year.
"Like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house"
Now, it is the last few days of summer and although hardly the end of the garden, everything has changed. The formerly lush cucumber vines are pale and very dead. They flutter in the breeze like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house. In the next day or two I will pull them up and discard them. The okra has stopped producing entirely, but to my surprise the Half White Runner beans have still been making, as are the tomatoes. At long last, the peppers are finally doing great. The basil will fade soon, even though we have kept it well tended and enjoyed it often. We will probably freeze some, but it just isn’t the same as fresh.
"Moon flowers "
We are still enjoying several varieties of cutting flowers and a particular pleasure for us has been the moon flowers (Ipomoea alba). If you don’t know this beautiful ornamental, you should. In our region it is grown as an annual and blooms in the evening, so as to be pollinated by the moth population. Huge white blossoms on trailing vines makes for an impressive showing, but they have no food use and are in fact, poisonous.
"THE AUTUMN TRANSITION "
With the summer season ended, we now begin to weigh the benefits of our garden versus the drawbacks. First, the costs- as I have noted, gardening is not a free lunch, but it is a big lunch! Even if our produce was not in huge amounts, there was still plenty to eat and enough for limited canning. I’m not really sure that my wife would have found time for a monster canning season anyway.
"Committed to growing our garden organically"
Then there is the quality, which is excellent, but as with anything organic not perfectly symmetrical or without blemishes. We are committed to growing our garden organically. To us, that means growing without chemical pesticides or fertilizers. Going “green” in this sense also means less polluted soil, groundwater, rivers, streams, and creeks. In years past I have noted with alarm the increasing “bloom” of algae in our own Cabbage Creek from the wash off of chemical fertilizers from other farms further upstream. It also means less dependence on commercial produce that has to be trucked in resulting in the use of more fossil fuels.
Another very important piece of this picture is composting! We save most kitchen scraps (except flesh and bones) for the compost pile. We actually have two 10’ X 10’ pits in which we dump our scraps along with other yard waste. We harvest the composted matter from each pit alternatively and work it into our soil. This method not only provides an excellent alternative to commercial fertilizers but makes our garbage much less offensive.
Sitting in a shaded spot…sipping a little wine
Perhaps less tangible, but still very valuable to us is the simple pleasure we receive from just working the soil, tending our crops and just spending time together outside in such a beautiful setting. Some of my best memories of our gardening experience involve sitting in a shaded spot at the end of a day sipping a little wine and talking quietly with my wife Gail.
"Garden journaling"
Will we do it again next year? Absolutely! Although this post is (finally) ending here, I have been so inspired by the garden journaling experience that I plan to continue writing about it each month. I’m looking forward to sharing that collection of thoughts with you again in the early spring of 2009.
The salads of “Cabbage Creek” have long been a favorite of ours and our guests. Access to the wonderful extra virgin olive oils, balsamic and wine vinegars and other seasonings from Avanti Savoia only enhances the prospects. A salad bowl with fresh baby lettuces is always welcome with any number of variations based on this simple vinaigrette dressing.
Basic American Vinaigrette
Yields about 1 cup
Ingredients: (* available at Avanti Savoia.com)
½ cup *Red (#25001) or *White (#25002) Wine Vinegar by Claudio Rosso
2 tsp. Sel Gris Velvet sea salt* #35049
1 Tblsp. freshly ground black peppercorn* #32000
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced and mashed
½ tsp. sweet paprika* #32100
1 Tblsp. Dijon mustard
4 to 6 Tblsps. Avanti Savoia extra virgin olive oil* #10090
In a small bowl, combine salt and vinegar and beat well.
Add pepper, garlic, paprika, and Dijon. Mix well.
Next, beat in oil until smooth and toss with salad.
Do note that this is an American version, not classic Italian Vinaigrette. If you should wish to be a little more authentically Italian, try Don Vito’s Classic Italian Vinaigrette recipe from our August 12, 2008 post entitled “A Conversation Between Cooks.” The vinaigrette should not be made until just before using and the salad should not be dressed until ready to serve.
MAY ‘08
My wife, Gail and I planted our first garden together in the summer of 1996. We were very excited about it and spent a great deal of time (for the next eleven years) building our soil, tending, harvesting and enjoying. Some years we managed three different seasonal plantings and Gail canned with a passion. Last spring we both faced some health issues and in truth, we were also just really tired of the hard work and daily responsibility. So, for over a year we allowed the garden to “lay fallow” and produce a bumper crop of weeds.
"A reason to escape going to the gym"
However, a good break seems to have been very beneficial, at least for us and maybe for our garden. We have in years past, cultivated thirty two-12 foot rows. Work that was mostly accomplished using hand tools and a lot of effort. I saw the hard labor as a reason to escape going to the gym and there was a real satisfaction from the work and the edible results. This year we have decided that we would invest in some better machinery including a fine new tiller. There is still plenty of exercise involved and it is certainly more practical. We have also cut down on the amount of tilling required by cultivating only the rows in which we plant.
"Certain patterns have emerged"
I have been interested to note the upsurge of interest in gardens this year partly due to the downturn in the economy. I suppose that perhaps money can be saved on groceries by growing your own, but it is not a freebie- not by a long shot. Over our previous years of experience certain patterns have emerged. A half acre of corn proved to be a 3 year exercise in frustration due to the damage from storms, droughts and marauding raccoons. At the rate at which two people can enjoy fresh corn, it is easier and more economical to just purchase it from some local farmers. Any financial savings by way of a garden will be welcome of course, but for us it is really about the fantastic flavor, quality and purity.
We are planting the crops that we have had the best experience with in the past in terms of maintenance and productivity. This year that means tomatoes, peppers, beans, okra, lettuce, onions, greens, cucumbers, eggplants, herbs and flowers.
"That vision of the bounty of beautiful produce"
JUNE ‘08
Gardens always start out as an exercise in some kind of faith. Faith that those seeds will sprout, the seedlings will grow, the bugs and diseases will give you a break and that there will be enough sunlight and rain. How else could anyone put so much work and effort into a project if there wasn’t a great deal of faith that it will succeed? Then there is that vision of the bounty of beautiful produce. Now, after a month or so this particular year’s challenges began to be apparent, as I guess they are every year.
First, we seem to have a problem with our seed crops sprouting, especially the flowers and some of the herbs. Even old reliables like sunflowers are coming up with big gaps or simply not coming up at all. The pepper sets are small and growing very slowly. Everything else seems slow and a little stunted… Hmmm… to replant or not…Hmm.The lettuces and onions are delicious.
We have plenty of fresh basil, 24 feet of in fact. We call it Vito’s Basil Patch in honor of our Italian Partner at Avanti Savoia, Vito De Carolis. There are tomatoes, cukes and okra coming along and there is still hope. I don’t think one can garden without hope.
"RAIN "
It is dry and even though I have been watering, it really is not the same as rain. I am beginning to worry about our crop of wild raspberries. There are plenty of buds but some of the leaves are withering and that means that they are thirsty! We usually harvest around the 4th of July, but for that to happen…well, you know-RAIN. We depend on well water at Cabbage Creek (that’s what we named our little mini-farm) for drinking and living as well as watering the garden. Our well has never run out but I monitor the springs and creek all year just to get a clue about the water table level and it’s not looking good. If we reach a certain point I will be very reluctant to use any more well water than necessary.
Our next issue is sunlight- in the year and a half since we have had a garden, I’m wondering if the surrounding trees have grown just enough to make shade a problem. Removing a bunch of big branches might do it, but that will require some outside assistance.
JULY ‘08
I’ve been monitoring the amount of sunlight in the garden very carefully and I’m now convinced that there is just not quite enough. We are harvesting beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, lettuce, onions, cilantro and basil. But the amount of the harvest is not what it should be by this time of the season. I’m beginning to doubt whether or not there will be any peppers at all.
"Berry pickin’ party"
The rains have come however, and just in time. Not enough to really erase our rainfall deficit, but enough to help out the garden and bring on a decent harvest of raspberries. We look for them to be ripe the first part of July each year and sure enough, they were right on time. We had a “berry pickin’ party” a couple of days after the 4th of July with some friends and family. Baskets full of ripe raspberries are a beautiful sight. Although, I found myself down with a back ache, we did manage a good harvest and a good time. As is our tradition, we enjoyed fresh raspberry Margaritas with our guests.
As the month has slipped by, my priority in the garden has been weeding and mulching.
The weeds not only steal moisture and nourishment, they also block precious sunlight from the less tall plants. The mulching is indispensable in preventing more weed growth and the conservation of moisture along the plant rows.
Finally, the pepper plants are blooming and putting on more foliage, we will probably get a few anyway, but I doubt that they will be prolific. Some seasons we have been almost overwhelmed with the abundance of peppers. Like the old cliché, “feast or famine” this is going to be a thin year for peppers.
AUGUST ‘08
"All the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) "
Summer is half over and the hottest and most humid time of the year is here. In the northern hemisphere this time has been known as “the dog days of summer”, since the time of the Egyptians. As miserable a time as it can be, it is also the heart of the harvest time in our garden as well as the time for fall planting. We already have a row of mixed greens from which we have just now started harvesting, but within the last few days we will have planted radishes, turnips, spinach and a row of lettuce. Each year we usually plant a progression of lettuces over the season, so when one row plays out we have a new one ready to supply us with fresh salads. This is the time that all the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) and that we get to enjoy real garden bounty! We have also been fortunate in as much as the rains have come just in time the last few weeks.
"Okra"
My wife Gail has been busy caning. Beans, pickles and a particularly southern specialty, pickled okra. Okra was brought to America from Africa (some say Ethiopia, actually) and cultivation quickly spread all over the south. Besides being pickled, fresh okra is also enjoyed fried, steamed, braised, boiled and perhaps it is best known as an ingredient in some gumbos. Okra is a food that most people either love or hate. Okra does produce a viscous substance when cooked that is useful as a thickener, although some folks find it “slimy” and reject it on that basis alone. If you have access to the pods when they are very small (about 3 inches) they are delicious and less slimy when lightly steamed and served with Hollandaise sauce.
In just the last few days it is clear that the beans and cukes are on their last leg as expected this time of year. It makes the last of them even “sweeter”, knowing that their time is about over. But as one vegetable fades and takes its final bow, another fills its place. In this case our first good “mess” of mixed greens has arrived and they are excellent.
"Amaranth"
Also, even though I have not yet mentioned it, we have been harvesting and eating Amaranth greens all summer. Amaranth was once considered a weed and in practical terms, in our garden it still is- albeit a delicious and very nutritious one. We first planted it 6 or 7 years ago as a novelty and then discovered just how adapt it is in returning each year. It grows, well like a weed. But instead of just removing it from where it pops up, we eat it. Very similar in flavor and texture to spinach and interchangeable in any recipe calling for spinach, which is a good thing considering that we will probably never be able to get rid of it.
SEPTEMBER ‘08
"The garden is not going to be overgrown this year"
We are thankful that our well water has remained dependable, because we had only one significant rain during the whole month of August. As I have already noted, the 2008 season has not been our most prolific garden but still satisfying enough. Our fall crops are developing nicely, better actually than our spring plantings and the promise of fall is right around the corner. I’m already beginning to think about turning under spent rows and building the soil over the winter. No matter what we decide to plant next spring, the garden is not going to be overgrown this year.
"Like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house"
Now, it is the last few days of summer and although hardly the end of the garden, everything has changed. The formerly lush cucumber vines are pale and very dead. They flutter in the breeze like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house. In the next day or two I will pull them up and discard them. The okra has stopped producing entirely, but to my surprise the Half White Runner beans have still been making, as are the tomatoes. At long last, the peppers are finally doing great. The basil will fade soon, even though we have kept it well tended and enjoyed it often. We will probably freeze some, but it just isn’t the same as fresh.
"Moon flowers "
We are still enjoying several varieties of cutting flowers and a particular pleasure for us has been the moon flowers (Ipomoea alba). If you don’t know this beautiful ornamental, you should. In our region it is grown as an annual and blooms in the evening, so as to be pollinated by the moth population. Huge white blossoms on trailing vines makes for an impressive showing, but they have no food use and are in fact, poisonous.
"THE AUTUMN TRANSITION "
With the summer season ended, we now begin to weigh the benefits of our garden versus the drawbacks. First, the costs- as I have noted, gardening is not a free lunch, but it is a big lunch! Even if our produce was not in huge amounts, there was still plenty to eat and enough for limited canning. I’m not really sure that my wife would have found time for a monster canning season anyway.
"Committed to growing our garden organically"
Then there is the quality, which is excellent, but as with anything organic not perfectly symmetrical or without blemishes. We are committed to growing our garden organically. To us, that means growing without chemical pesticides or fertilizers. Going “green” in this sense also means less polluted soil, groundwater, rivers, streams, and creeks. In years past I have noted with alarm the increasing “bloom” of algae in our own Cabbage Creek from the wash off of chemical fertilizers from other farms further upstream. It also means less dependence on commercial produce that has to be trucked in resulting in the use of more fossil fuels.
Another very important piece of this picture is composting! We save most kitchen scraps (except flesh and bones) for the compost pile. We actually have two 10’ X 10’ pits in which we dump our scraps along with other yard waste. We harvest the composted matter from each pit alternatively and work it into our soil. This method not only provides an excellent alternative to commercial fertilizers but makes our garbage much less offensive.
Sitting in a shaded spot…sipping a little wine
Perhaps less tangible, but still very valuable to us is the simple pleasure we receive from just working the soil, tending our crops and just spending time together outside in such a beautiful setting. Some of my best memories of our gardening experience involve sitting in a shaded spot at the end of a day sipping a little wine and talking quietly with my wife Gail.
"Garden journaling"
Will we do it again next year? Absolutely! Although this post is (finally) ending here, I have been so inspired by the garden journaling experience that I plan to continue writing about it each month. I’m looking forward to sharing that collection of thoughts with you again in the early spring of 2009.
The salads of “Cabbage Creek” have long been a favorite of ours and our guests. Access to the wonderful extra virgin olive oils, balsamic and wine vinegars and other seasonings from Avanti Savoia only enhances the prospects. A salad bowl with fresh baby lettuces is always welcome with any number of variations based on this simple vinaigrette dressing.
Basic American Vinaigrette
Yields about 1 cup
Ingredients: (* available at Avanti Savoia.com)
½ cup *Red (#25001) or *White (#25002) Wine Vinegar by Claudio Rosso
2 tsp. Sel Gris Velvet sea salt* #35049
1 Tblsp. freshly ground black peppercorn* #32000
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced and mashed
½ tsp. sweet paprika* #32100
1 Tblsp. Dijon mustard
4 to 6 Tblsps. Avanti Savoia extra virgin olive oil* #10090
In a small bowl, combine salt and vinegar and beat well.
Add pepper, garlic, paprika, and Dijon. Mix well.
Next, beat in oil until smooth and toss with salad.
Do note that this is an American version, not classic Italian Vinaigrette. If you should wish to be a little more authentically Italian, try Don Vito’s Classic Italian Vinaigrette recipe from our August 12, 2008 post entitled “A Conversation Between Cooks.” The vinaigrette should not be made until just before using and the salad should not be dressed until ready to serve.
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Wednesday, October 8, 2008
AN AVANTI SAVOIA BIRTHDAY PARTY
Cool Food for a Hot Celebration
It is a nice thing to enjoy the company of your co-workers. Ben Slocum, the young president of Avanti Savoia is one of those enjoyable people. I consider Ben to be a computer wizard, although I’m sure that he would quickly disagree. In the almost two years that I have been Avanti’s Chef Consultant, I have spent many hours working with Ben and have grown to like and respect him very much.
Computer illiterate meets cyberspace guru
Ben has become my cyberspace guru. I think it is fair to say that at the onset of my employment, I was a computer illiterate. It has been through Ben’s patient and expert instruction that I have (at least to a limited degree) joined communications in the 21st century.
This is a great time for Ben. He graduated from Tusculum College in 2004 with a degree in Business Administration and a MBA from the University of Tennessee in ’06 and now, he is the president of Avanti Savoia Imports. He is also a big sports fan, having played soccer in both high school and college. Somehow, he still finds time to be a volunteer soccer coach at the local high school.
The perfect excuse to celebrate
Other exciting news in Ben’s life is the recent purchase of a new home and his upcoming marriage to his dynamite fiancée, Erin. Ben’s recent 27th birthday was the perfect excuse (as though we needed one) to celebrate with my employer and friend. It was on a recent hot summer’s evening during a dramatic cloudburst that we gathered for the occasion.
The weather was much too hot for elaborate cooking at the party, so we decided on a cold three course menu that was mostly prepared ahead. The menu relied on our garden and a number of our good Avanti Savoia products and hopefully might suggest some party ideas of your own. Doug and Kathy Slocum (Ben’s parents) graciously hosted the party and provided some great vinos.
The Wines
Walter Hansel Winery Russian River Chardonnay ‘05
Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir ‘03
Tasmania Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon ‘01
The Menu
(*available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)
Starters
Endive leaves stuffed with Pimiento*(Spanish Sweet Peppers #34500) Cheddar Cheese
Choux Paste puffs filled with White Tuna Salad*(Albo White Tuna Fillets#70010)
Fried Pappadums (Indian crisp bread) with Podina (cilantro/mint) sauce
Main Courses
Fresh Garden Salad (hand picked from our garden the morning of the Party)
Served with Chunky Tomato Balsamic*(Giusti Gold Medal #20007) Vinaigrette
(For this Vinaigrette recipe, see our July 25 ’08 post, “In Love with the Love Apple”)
Pasta Salad *(Tortiglione #60030) with Shrimp and Toasted Pecan Pesto
Layered Fruit Bowl of Watermelon, Blueberries and Oranges with
Gail’s Poppy Seed Dressing
Dessert
Double Mocha Chocolate Pound Cake (recipe to follow) with
Chocolate Buttercream *( #50015 Castagna Extra Fonente) and Wild Raspberry Coulis
Served with Bonny Doon Vineyard Framboise (Raspberry Dessert Wine)
DOUBLE MOCHA CHOCOLATE POUND CAKE with CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Baking Time: 60 to 70 minutes
Makes one 9” by 5” Loaf Cake
Ingredients: (*Available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)
Pre-heat oven to 325 degrees and grease and flour loaf pan.
2 oz. dark chocolate, *(Castagna Extra Fonente, #50015) coarsely chopped
2 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 cup very strong hot coffee
½ cup (one stick) butter, unsalted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 ¾ cup dark brown sugar
2 eggs, room temp.
2 cups all purpose flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking soda
Pinch of salt
½ cup sour cream
Recipe:
Combine chocolate and instant coffee in a small bowl and add hot coffee. Set aside and allow to cool.
Cream butter, vanilla extract and sugar. Beat very well.
Add eggs and again beat very well.
Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. At low speed in mixer, add dry ingredients and mix until just smooth- do not over mix.
Add sour cream and again mix slightly.
Add cooled chocolate until the batter is just mixed. Pour into prepared pan and bake 60 to 70 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Allow cake to cool in pan for about 10 to 15 minutes and remove from pan. Ice with Chocolate Buttercream when completely cool.
CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM ICING
Ingredients:
7 oz. or two bars of dark chocolate,*(Castagna Extra Fondente #50015) coarsely chopped
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ cups confectioner’s sugar, sifted
2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temp.
¼ cup cocoa powder *(Red Venezuelan Cocoa Powder #50120)
1 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 Tblsp.Bourbon
Pinch of salt
Recipe:
Melt the chocolate in a small bowl place over a pan of hot water.
Cream butter and sugar, adding sugar a little at a time. Add vanilla and beat at high speed for 3 or 4 minutes until mixture becomes very pale. Scrape down sides of bowl as necessary.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating very well after addition, then add cocoa.
Blend together instant coffee, Bourbon and salt. Beat one more time until blended.
Place Buttercream in refrigerator for a few minutes to firm it up. Ice cooled cake and place cake in refrigerator until about 30 minutes before serving.
RASPBERRY COULIS
Did you know? Coulis is a cooking term for a puree or sauce. It can be either sweet or savory, such as this sweet dessert Coulis or savory as in a tomato Coulis. There is plenty of room here for improvisation and making your own calls. For instance the amount of sugar in this recipe depends on the tartness of the particular raspberries used. Any number of flavor enhancers can also be used, such as a squeeze of lemon, lime or orange, a splash of complimentary liquor or even a pinch of salt. The important thing is not cover up the natural taste of the raspberries. So, in this recipe we will give you a very basic outline with which you can come with your own version of a delicious dessert sauce. Please note that other fruits can be substituted for raspberries.
Ingredients:
2 to 3 pints raspberries (fresh or frozen)
1 ½ cup sugar
¼ cup Chambord or other raspberry liqueur
Recipe:
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Strain through a fine mesh sieve and taste for a balance of flavor- adjust according to your own judgment. Also, make a call concerning the consistency of the Coulis, if it is not quite thick enough, the strained sauce can be reduced a bit more.
Chill Coulis in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When ready to serve pour a small pool on your serving plate and lay a slice of the pound cake in the middle. If you really want to gild the Lily, add a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream.
The weather was much too hot for elaborate cooking at the party, so we decided on a cold three course menu that was mostly prepared ahead. The menu relied on our garden and a number of our good Avanti Savoia products and hopefully might suggest some party ideas of your own. Doug and Kathy Slocum (Ben’s parents) graciously hosted the party and provided some great vinos.
The Wines
Walter Hansel Winery Russian River Chardonnay ‘05
Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir ‘03
Tasmania Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon ‘01
The Menu
(*available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)
Starters
Endive leaves stuffed with Pimiento*(Spanish Sweet Peppers #34500) Cheddar Cheese
Choux Paste puffs filled with White Tuna Salad*(Albo White Tuna Fillets#70010)
Fried Pappadums (Indian crisp bread) with Podina (cilantro/mint) sauce
Main Courses
Fresh Garden Salad (hand picked from our garden the morning of the Party)
Served with Chunky Tomato Balsamic*(Giusti Gold Medal #20007) Vinaigrette
(For this Vinaigrette recipe, see our July 25 ’08 post, “In Love with the Love Apple”)
Pasta Salad *(Tortiglione #60030) with Shrimp and Toasted Pecan Pesto
Layered Fruit Bowl of Watermelon, Blueberries and Oranges with
Gail’s Poppy Seed Dressing
Dessert
Double Mocha Chocolate Pound Cake (recipe to follow) with
Chocolate Buttercream *( #50015 Castagna Extra Fonente) and Wild Raspberry Coulis
Served with Bonny Doon Vineyard Framboise (Raspberry Dessert Wine)
DOUBLE MOCHA CHOCOLATE POUND CAKE with CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Baking Time: 60 to 70 minutes
Makes one 9” by 5” Loaf Cake
Ingredients: (*Available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)
Pre-heat oven to 325 degrees and grease and flour loaf pan.
2 oz. dark chocolate, *(Castagna Extra Fonente, #50015) coarsely chopped
2 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 cup very strong hot coffee
½ cup (one stick) butter, unsalted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 ¾ cup dark brown sugar
2 eggs, room temp.
2 cups all purpose flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking soda
Pinch of salt
½ cup sour cream
Recipe:
Combine chocolate and instant coffee in a small bowl and add hot coffee. Set aside and allow to cool.
Cream butter, vanilla extract and sugar. Beat very well.
Add eggs and again beat very well.
Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. At low speed in mixer, add dry ingredients and mix until just smooth- do not over mix.
Add sour cream and again mix slightly.
Add cooled chocolate until the batter is just mixed. Pour into prepared pan and bake 60 to 70 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Allow cake to cool in pan for about 10 to 15 minutes and remove from pan. Ice with Chocolate Buttercream when completely cool.
CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM ICING
Ingredients:
7 oz. or two bars of dark chocolate,*(Castagna Extra Fondente #50015) coarsely chopped
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ cups confectioner’s sugar, sifted
2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temp.
¼ cup cocoa powder *(Red Venezuelan Cocoa Powder #50120)
1 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 Tblsp.Bourbon
Pinch of salt
Recipe:
Melt the chocolate in a small bowl place over a pan of hot water.
Cream butter and sugar, adding sugar a little at a time. Add vanilla and beat at high speed for 3 or 4 minutes until mixture becomes very pale. Scrape down sides of bowl as necessary.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating very well after addition, then add cocoa.
Blend together instant coffee, Bourbon and salt. Beat one more time until blended.
Place Buttercream in refrigerator for a few minutes to firm it up. Ice cooled cake and place cake in refrigerator until about 30 minutes before serving.
RASPBERRY COULIS
Did you know? Coulis is a cooking term for a puree or sauce. It can be either sweet or savory, such as this sweet dessert Coulis or savory as in a tomato Coulis. There is plenty of room here for improvisation and making your own calls. For instance the amount of sugar in this recipe depends on the tartness of the particular raspberries used. Any number of flavor enhancers can also be used, such as a squeeze of lemon, lime or orange, a splash of complimentary liquor or even a pinch of salt. The important thing is not cover up the natural taste of the raspberries. So, in this recipe we will give you a very basic outline with which you can come with your own version of a delicious dessert sauce. Please note that other fruits can be substituted for raspberries.
Ingredients:
2 to 3 pints raspberries (fresh or frozen)
1 ½ cup sugar
¼ cup Chambord or other raspberry liqueur
Recipe:
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Strain through a fine mesh sieve and taste for a balance of flavor- adjust according to your own judgment. Also, make a call concerning the consistency of the Coulis, if it is not quite thick enough, the strained sauce can be reduced a bit more.
Chill Coulis in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When ready to serve pour a small pool on your serving plate and lay a slice of the pound cake in the middle. If you really want to gild the Lily, add a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream.
Happy Birthday buddy!
NEW: Visit VitosCiao.com, an exciting new interactive forum in which Avanti Savoia’s legendary Italian partner shares his astounding knowledge of gourmet cooking and eating. Buon Appetito!
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Tuesday, August 12, 2008
A CONVERSATION BETWEEN COOKS
Chef Joseph Asks Don Vito to Define “Authentic” Italian Cuisine
Vito De Carolis is about as authentically Italian as you can imagine. A native of the city of Torino (Turin), he and his wife, Daniela own a home there that is 600 years old. Vito grew up loving cooking and worked at a very early age at a small food shop named “Il Pastificio”. (See a previous blog post entitled “Where My Love for Cooking and Eating All Began”).
On a warm summer day recently I had the opportunity to ask him some very basic questions about food in his homeland. I always know that I’m getting ready to learn something interesting when he prefaces a statement in his rich and pleasing accent with “In the Piedmont region (or other regions) of my country…..”
Like so many of the other cuisines of the world there is not just one single Italian Cooking. There are in fact, many regional specialties throughout Italy that are quite varied. Many dishes are not just regional but reflect the tastes and flavors of specific cities as a result of the isolation that the city states experienced during the middle ages. The foods that many Americans identify as “Italian” are actually dishes that have evolved to reflect American tastes and in some cases are American creations.
He uses as an example his Insalata Mista, an everyday mixed salad with a Vinaigrette dressing. The way this salad is served is unlike both the American custom of the salad at the beginning of the meal and the French tradition of serving salad after the entrée. Italians enjoy their salad as a side dish served along with the entrée. See the end of this post for a recipe for this salad and classic Italian Vinaigrette, using only sea salt, wine vinegar and olive oil.
Another simple dish often misunderstood by Americans is Tomato Sauce. De Carolis says, “Until about 40 years ago every Italian family possessed their own Tomato Squeezer. The best fresh tomatoes were only available in August and everyone would buy large amounts, often 10 to 20 cases at a time. The following week was a nightmare because of the hard work involved in grinding the fresh tomatoes by hand”.
Classic Ragu is a sauce made from tomato sauce and minced beef and pork, seasoned with only thyme or rosemary. Vito notes that butcher shops to this day still package meat with large sprigs of fresh rosemary, thyme or bay leaves.
It was NOT used as a salad dressing, even though younger Italians are using Balsamics with their salads possibly as a result of modern marketing. Italians still do not serve a salad containing cheese with a Balsamic Vinegar. Served with cheese alone yes, but not with a salad containing cheese. However, if you should choose to substitute Balsamic vinegar for wine vinegar in vinaigrette, use 1/3 of the amount of balsamic vinegar called for in the recipe.
Buon Appetito!
Don Vito’s Salad with Italian Vinaigrette
In a salad combine equal parts of the following ingredients:
Fresh lettuce
Shredded Radicchio
Cucumber, chopped
Tomato, chopped
Red Onion, that has been cut into small strips, soaked in cold water one hour and drained
Classic Italian Vinaigrette:
Ingredients: (*Avaiable at Avanti Savoia)
Fine sea salt to taste (Vito recommends *Sel de Mer, fine #35021)
1 part *Red (# 25001) or *White (#25002) Wine Vinegar
3 parts extra virgin olive oil such as *Marcinase from the Puglia region (#10001)
1. In a small mixing bowl, immediately before serving; whisk salt with vinegar until
mixture begins to foam.
2. Beat in oil until smooth and toss with salad ingredients, serve and enjoy!
Vito De Carolis is about as authentically Italian as you can imagine. A native of the city of Torino (Turin), he and his wife, Daniela own a home there that is 600 years old. Vito grew up loving cooking and worked at a very early age at a small food shop named “Il Pastificio”. (See a previous blog post entitled “Where My Love for Cooking and Eating All Began”).
Cooking and eating is considered an art in Italy
He not only understands the specialties of his native Italy, (where cooking and eating is considered an art) but also possesses a commanding knowledge of many other international cuisines. I have spent my adult life working in kitchens all across North America, but I never cease to be amazed by Vito’s extraordinary insights into food, culture and cooking.On a warm summer day recently I had the opportunity to ask him some very basic questions about food in his homeland. I always know that I’m getting ready to learn something interesting when he prefaces a statement in his rich and pleasing accent with “In the Piedmont region (or other regions) of my country…..”
Like so many of the other cuisines of the world there is not just one single Italian Cooking. There are in fact, many regional specialties throughout Italy that are quite varied. Many dishes are not just regional but reflect the tastes and flavors of specific cities as a result of the isolation that the city states experienced during the middle ages. The foods that many Americans identify as “Italian” are actually dishes that have evolved to reflect American tastes and in some cases are American creations.
Don Vito and every day Italian food
Vito defines “authentic Italian” as “local food that is eaten daily on a regular basis by typical Italian families, not the cooking that is to be found in the fancy restaurants”.He uses as an example his Insalata Mista, an everyday mixed salad with a Vinaigrette dressing. The way this salad is served is unlike both the American custom of the salad at the beginning of the meal and the French tradition of serving salad after the entrée. Italians enjoy their salad as a side dish served along with the entrée. See the end of this post for a recipe for this salad and classic Italian Vinaigrette, using only sea salt, wine vinegar and olive oil.
Another simple dish often misunderstood by Americans is Tomato Sauce. De Carolis says, “Until about 40 years ago every Italian family possessed their own Tomato Squeezer. The best fresh tomatoes were only available in August and everyone would buy large amounts, often 10 to 20 cases at a time. The following week was a nightmare because of the hard work involved in grinding the fresh tomatoes by hand”.
A dying custom
The fresh tomatoes were then cooked with olive oil, celery, onion, carrots and basil. The finished sauce was sealed in sterilized jars and stored for use throughout the year. Because of the heat involved, this activity was usually accomplished outside. “This is a custom that is now dying out because fresh tomatoes are on the market year round and there are good commercial sauces such as the Oliveri products available through Avanti Savoia”, reflects the gentleman from Torino.Classic Ragu is a sauce made from tomato sauce and minced beef and pork, seasoned with only thyme or rosemary. Vito notes that butcher shops to this day still package meat with large sprigs of fresh rosemary, thyme or bay leaves.
A new addition to American cooking
A comparatively new addition to American cooking is the use of Balsamic Vinegars. Up until several decades ago this product was not even available commercially. Balsamic Vinegars originated in the Modena and Reggio provinces of Emilia- Romagna and were consumed as a digestive at the end of a meal. Also, Balsamic was employed to add flavor to sauces, and with cheese or over ice cream.It was NOT used as a salad dressing, even though younger Italians are using Balsamics with their salads possibly as a result of modern marketing. Italians still do not serve a salad containing cheese with a Balsamic Vinegar. Served with cheese alone yes, but not with a salad containing cheese. However, if you should choose to substitute Balsamic vinegar for wine vinegar in vinaigrette, use 1/3 of the amount of balsamic vinegar called for in the recipe.
An enlightening experience with a knowledgeable source
A conversation with Don Vito is always a fun and enlightening experience with a knowledgeable source. We hope that you will enjoy this information and recipes from Avanti Savoia’s Italian partner. For more detailed information on the history of Italian cuisine see our next post.Buon Appetito!
Don Vito’s Salad with Italian Vinaigrette
In a salad combine equal parts of the following ingredients:
Fresh lettuce
Shredded Radicchio
Cucumber, chopped
Tomato, chopped
Red Onion, that has been cut into small strips, soaked in cold water one hour and drained
Classic Italian Vinaigrette:
Ingredients: (*Avaiable at Avanti Savoia)
Fine sea salt to taste (Vito recommends *Sel de Mer, fine #35021)
1 part *Red (# 25001) or *White (#25002) Wine Vinegar
3 parts extra virgin olive oil such as *Marcinase from the Puglia region (#10001)
1. In a small mixing bowl, immediately before serving; whisk salt with vinegar until
mixture begins to foam.
2. Beat in oil until smooth and toss with salad ingredients, serve and enjoy!
Friday, January 25, 2008
How Fine Dining Came To the Hinterland
A Commentary on the Evolution of Regional American Cuisine
Some Historical Cooking Tidbits
Our story could begin in many ways, but historically it begins with Italy in the middle of the 16th century. It was 1553 when Catherine de Medici made her way to Paris to marry the future King of France, Henri II. Italian cuisine is certainly one of the most ancient in Europe, although the Greeks will point out (quite rightly) that many Italian techniques and dishes can be traced back to Greece and even Asia. It is a fact however, that Catherine did take with her a team of the finest cooks in Florence. And they did profoundly influence the cookery of French high society. French chefs had a little over two hundred years to develop and refine their skills under the noble houses until 1789. The French Revolution brought a crashing finale to not only the old social order, but to the ways in which chefs lived and worked as well. Modern restaurants were essentially created by unemployed culinarians seeking to survive after the dissolution of the great estates of their former patrons. From 1553 on, Catherine and her Italian kitchen whizzes did begin something of a revolution in French cookery. It is usually referred to as a “refinement” of the then accepted cooking practices. It would not be the last. French chefs have continued to the present time in their efforts to organize, simplify and codify their great art. The fact is that French cooking has not, nor ever will remain the same. It has always evolved and will continue to do so.
Certainly, one of the mega chefs of the 20th century in terms of his influence upon following generations of chefs is the legendary Fernand Point. From his writing, reputation and influence, Point is a deeply respected, personal hero of mine. Point founded his restaurant, La Pyramide in the Rhone valley town of Vienne in 1923 and continued to operate it until his death in 1955. Chef Point trained several of modern France’s most accomplished chefs including the Troisgros brothers, Alain Chapel and “The Lion of Lyon”, Paul Bocuse. Of course, I never had the privilege of meeting Point in person, (I was just in the first grade when he died). However, as the reputed father of Nouvelle Cuisine, I have stumbled across his footprints my entire career.
Now to the Americas: The cooking history of the United States reflects not only the foods of the native peoples but the traditions of her multi-cultural settlers as well. The natural resources of the new world blended with the eating habits of waves of immigrants from every region of the planet. Early American society was agrarian, and this is reflected in foods and attitudes based on the rural availabilities and individual cultural tastes of the settlers backgrounds. Adaptation proved to be the key to survival. Game, large and small, was plentiful and the waters teemed with an abundance of aquatic edibles. The pioneer cook also found him or herself confronted by a host of novel produce, much of which was unknown in England and Europe.
Native Americans instructed the settlers in cultivation, preparation and preservation of these new foodstuffs. Our early cookbooks, such as they were, consisted mostly of very broad guidelines and were useless to illiterate pioneers in any case. The early “recipes” that did exist offered, by today’s standards, rather vague guidelines, such as “wine glass and teacups full”, “as much spice as needed”, “some”, “a little bit”, and so forth. Similar instructions still appear in family recipes that have passed down orally from one generation to the next. With modern agri-business, transportation and shipping, many regional distinctions have been blurred; however, creative chefs at excellent restaurants all across America are remembering our heritage. Many are now exploring menus that reflect heirloom products and regional flavors coupled with sophisticated cooking techniques.
There have been many changes in American dinning and restaurants in my lifetime. Fifty years ago, there was a vague genre known as “continental cuisine” that is rarely seen in today’s culinary circles. Certainly in the big cities, one could find restaurants offering their take on any number of ethnic varieties including sophisticated French. But American restaurants offering American Cuisine were a different story entirely. Regional American food was local food and only the more refined American dinners appreciated (or cooked) French. Most French cookbooks of the time, were written by French chefs in French, then translated into English, and assumed much expertise on the part of the reader. Then, in 1961 came the publication of volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. This book was a detailed approach to the art of cooking with few assumptions and lots of explanations. Also, it had beautiful illustrations by Julia’s husband, Paul Child. It was followed by a second volume of the same title and, in early 1963 by the famous “The French Chef “cooking show on Boston’s public television station. Every celebrity chef cooking show and personality today owes their existence to this seminal event. In this same era an American President and First Lady were being served genuine French cuisine in the White House by a genuine French Chef, Rene’ Verdon, Le Maitre Cuisinier de France. French cooking became popular, chic, and accessible.
We can’t look at modern food history without a nod to the natural food movement of the 60s and 70s as well. Has any foodstuff been held up to as much ridicule as has simple tofu? There was a time when the word “organic” evoked images of “commune cuisine” or at the least health food “nuts”. That time is long past. Any large supermarket in the US today features whole sections to organic foods and yes, that includes tofu in several grades. Many of us care very much about what nurtures our bodies. And sales figures support this assumption too.
La Nouvelle Cuisine, The New Cooking, burst upon the fertile countryside of California several decades ago. Coupled with the golden state’s passion for quality foodstuffs and their commitment to world class wines, a monumental revolution ensued. It was the right place and the right time. California followed a very European model for success. Classic cooking techniques, mostly French and Italian (and in time, Asian) were employed using local ingredients. Local bakeries, artisan cheeses, superb produce, organic sources for perfect meats, boatloads of the freshest seafoods, AND California wine created an electrifying atmosphere.
Chefs with readily recognized names today, helped create the groundwork of this movement, like Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and Wolfgang Puck. Another very good example would be Chef Philippe Jeanty, who for years presided over the Domaine restaurant located on site at the vineyards of Domaine Chandon in Yountville, California. Such a fantastic location in the heart of Napa valley with tremendous wine resources was at the chef’s disposal. Chef Jeanty continues today with his “Bistro People” concept of bringing French bistro cooking to the west coast. This “California Story” is a model for anyone in American food service today. Restaurants, wineries, food producers and innkeepers have learned to work in a symbiotic relationship the last few years, and not just in California. All regions of our country can boast restaurants, hotels and inns that proudly serve regional fare. What an exciting time to experience expertly and creatively prepared New American Cooking!
Please share with us your thoughts concerning New American Cooking and do mention specific names and locations of establishments that you have experienced. We also hope that you will contact us with any questions or comments concerning any of Avanti Savoia’s “Culinary Treasures from around the World”.
Bon Appetit Y’all!
Chef Joseph
Chef Joseph Lowery is the Chef Consultant at Avanti Savoia. He has worked as a chef, author, and cooking instructor since 1971.
Some Historical Cooking Tidbits
Our story could begin in many ways, but historically it begins with Italy in the middle of the 16th century. It was 1553 when Catherine de Medici made her way to Paris to marry the future King of France, Henri II. Italian cuisine is certainly one of the most ancient in Europe, although the Greeks will point out (quite rightly) that many Italian techniques and dishes can be traced back to Greece and even Asia. It is a fact however, that Catherine did take with her a team of the finest cooks in Florence. And they did profoundly influence the cookery of French high society. French chefs had a little over two hundred years to develop and refine their skills under the noble houses until 1789. The French Revolution brought a crashing finale to not only the old social order, but to the ways in which chefs lived and worked as well. Modern restaurants were essentially created by unemployed culinarians seeking to survive after the dissolution of the great estates of their former patrons. From 1553 on, Catherine and her Italian kitchen whizzes did begin something of a revolution in French cookery. It is usually referred to as a “refinement” of the then accepted cooking practices. It would not be the last. French chefs have continued to the present time in their efforts to organize, simplify and codify their great art. The fact is that French cooking has not, nor ever will remain the same. It has always evolved and will continue to do so.
Certainly, one of the mega chefs of the 20th century in terms of his influence upon following generations of chefs is the legendary Fernand Point. From his writing, reputation and influence, Point is a deeply respected, personal hero of mine. Point founded his restaurant, La Pyramide in the Rhone valley town of Vienne in 1923 and continued to operate it until his death in 1955. Chef Point trained several of modern France’s most accomplished chefs including the Troisgros brothers, Alain Chapel and “The Lion of Lyon”, Paul Bocuse. Of course, I never had the privilege of meeting Point in person, (I was just in the first grade when he died). However, as the reputed father of Nouvelle Cuisine, I have stumbled across his footprints my entire career.
Now to the Americas: The cooking history of the United States reflects not only the foods of the native peoples but the traditions of her multi-cultural settlers as well. The natural resources of the new world blended with the eating habits of waves of immigrants from every region of the planet. Early American society was agrarian, and this is reflected in foods and attitudes based on the rural availabilities and individual cultural tastes of the settlers backgrounds. Adaptation proved to be the key to survival. Game, large and small, was plentiful and the waters teemed with an abundance of aquatic edibles. The pioneer cook also found him or herself confronted by a host of novel produce, much of which was unknown in England and Europe.
Native Americans instructed the settlers in cultivation, preparation and preservation of these new foodstuffs. Our early cookbooks, such as they were, consisted mostly of very broad guidelines and were useless to illiterate pioneers in any case. The early “recipes” that did exist offered, by today’s standards, rather vague guidelines, such as “wine glass and teacups full”, “as much spice as needed”, “some”, “a little bit”, and so forth. Similar instructions still appear in family recipes that have passed down orally from one generation to the next. With modern agri-business, transportation and shipping, many regional distinctions have been blurred; however, creative chefs at excellent restaurants all across America are remembering our heritage. Many are now exploring menus that reflect heirloom products and regional flavors coupled with sophisticated cooking techniques.
There have been many changes in American dinning and restaurants in my lifetime. Fifty years ago, there was a vague genre known as “continental cuisine” that is rarely seen in today’s culinary circles. Certainly in the big cities, one could find restaurants offering their take on any number of ethnic varieties including sophisticated French. But American restaurants offering American Cuisine were a different story entirely. Regional American food was local food and only the more refined American dinners appreciated (or cooked) French. Most French cookbooks of the time, were written by French chefs in French, then translated into English, and assumed much expertise on the part of the reader. Then, in 1961 came the publication of volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. This book was a detailed approach to the art of cooking with few assumptions and lots of explanations. Also, it had beautiful illustrations by Julia’s husband, Paul Child. It was followed by a second volume of the same title and, in early 1963 by the famous “The French Chef “cooking show on Boston’s public television station. Every celebrity chef cooking show and personality today owes their existence to this seminal event. In this same era an American President and First Lady were being served genuine French cuisine in the White House by a genuine French Chef, Rene’ Verdon, Le Maitre Cuisinier de France. French cooking became popular, chic, and accessible.
We can’t look at modern food history without a nod to the natural food movement of the 60s and 70s as well. Has any foodstuff been held up to as much ridicule as has simple tofu? There was a time when the word “organic” evoked images of “commune cuisine” or at the least health food “nuts”. That time is long past. Any large supermarket in the US today features whole sections to organic foods and yes, that includes tofu in several grades. Many of us care very much about what nurtures our bodies. And sales figures support this assumption too.
La Nouvelle Cuisine, The New Cooking, burst upon the fertile countryside of California several decades ago. Coupled with the golden state’s passion for quality foodstuffs and their commitment to world class wines, a monumental revolution ensued. It was the right place and the right time. California followed a very European model for success. Classic cooking techniques, mostly French and Italian (and in time, Asian) were employed using local ingredients. Local bakeries, artisan cheeses, superb produce, organic sources for perfect meats, boatloads of the freshest seafoods, AND California wine created an electrifying atmosphere.
Chefs with readily recognized names today, helped create the groundwork of this movement, like Alice Waters, Jeremiah Tower and Wolfgang Puck. Another very good example would be Chef Philippe Jeanty, who for years presided over the Domaine restaurant located on site at the vineyards of Domaine Chandon in Yountville, California. Such a fantastic location in the heart of Napa valley with tremendous wine resources was at the chef’s disposal. Chef Jeanty continues today with his “Bistro People” concept of bringing French bistro cooking to the west coast. This “California Story” is a model for anyone in American food service today. Restaurants, wineries, food producers and innkeepers have learned to work in a symbiotic relationship the last few years, and not just in California. All regions of our country can boast restaurants, hotels and inns that proudly serve regional fare. What an exciting time to experience expertly and creatively prepared New American Cooking!
Please share with us your thoughts concerning New American Cooking and do mention specific names and locations of establishments that you have experienced. We also hope that you will contact us with any questions or comments concerning any of Avanti Savoia’s “Culinary Treasures from around the World”.
Bon Appetit Y’all!
Chef Joseph
Chef Joseph Lowery is the Chef Consultant at Avanti Savoia. He has worked as a chef, author, and cooking instructor since 1971.
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