Stocking the Pantry Part 2

If you missed Part 1 you can read it here

The only mineral that we eat as a food
Salt is the only mineral that we eat as a food and is an essential nutrient and universal ingredient. At one time all salt was produced by traditional artisan methods that included solar evaporation, boiling brine or mining from deposits. Salt was a rare and valuable treasure that was even used as currency. Avanti Savoia offers an assortment of more than 20 various natural salts from around the world which we usually just refer to as gourmet finishing salts.  Different styles, grinds, colors, flavors and nuances have been a delight for the Avanti chefs to experiment with in our cooking school, La Cucina. One of our more exciting adventures with salt is our Natural Salt Block Cooking Tiles, which are cut from deposits in the Himalayan Mountains. They can be used for cooking as well for serving. Just be sure to CAREFULLY READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Flavors and nuances
Cooking with wines, spirits, liqueurs and cordials can lend flavors and nuances to many dishes although they have other useful properties, as well. Wines and spirits are used for de-glazing pans, making quick pan sauces and they often add a very important acid component to balance dishes. Marinating with alcohol adds flavor, aroma and assists in tenderizing. Good examples of wines to have on hand are white vermouth, dry red and white table wines, Sherries and Marsala. The flavor required in a particular dish will dictate the choice of liqueurs; such as coffee liqueur for Tiramisu or Grand Marnier for crepes. Don't forget the place of Mirin and rice cooking wine in Asian cuisine.
Cold pressed oils and cooking fats
A selection of several cold pressed oils and cooking fats are also essential. At the top of the inventory is authentic Italian extra virgin olive oil and nowhere is there a better selection that on avantisavoia.com.  Next favorite in our kitchen is unsalted butter, whole or clarified. We do save bacon grease and use it judiciously. For deep frying peanut or canola oil and for specific flavoring nut oils such as walnut, almond and hazelnut are wonderful. Upon occasion we use safflower oil and in baking - vegetable shortening and for good old Southern Biscuits… lard. If you are lucky enough to come by duck or goose fat your credentials as a gourmet cook will be assured.

Riccardo Giusti Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Condiments and vinegars
Many, many dishes require the addition of liquid condiments and vinegars. These items include Worcester sauce, soy sauce, bitters and favorite hot sauces which vary according to style of cuisine and personal taste such as Sambal, Siracha, Valentina, Tabasco, Louisiana or Texas Pete. Fine Balsamic vinegars from Avanti Savoia are a must, of course. Red and white wine vinegars, rice vinegar, black vinegar, herb and fruit vinegars can add a lot of flavor and style. A collection of sweeteners is certainly required. Our go-tos are granulated and powdered white cane sugar, brown sugar, raw sugar, honey, maple syrup, molasses, and corn syrup and Agave syrup.
Important elements… we couldn't do without
Leavenings, thickeners and baked goods are important elements in any cook's kitchen. We couldn't do without baking yeast, baking soda, baking powder, cream of tartar, arrowroot, cornstarch, xanthan gum, and unflavored gelatin. Using the a fore mention products will enable bakers to create any number of homemade baked goods, however at a minimum a kitchen should also have available nice whole grain breads and specialty crackers. Corn and flour tortillas are necessary for those of us that love Southwestern and Mexican cuisine.
Dry pantry stock
We can't do any baking without our dry pantry stock. Again, for serious bakers there is usually a long list of ingredients but, for the simple home cook the following flours should prove to be sufficient; all purpose flour, self rising flour, whole wheat flour, unbleached white flour and cake flour and bran or wheat germ. Powdered milk and powdered buttermilk are useful in a number of recipes. Gotta have cocoa powder and dark chocolate, period! Several corn products are useful including stone ground cornmeal and grits as well as masa for making tortillas and thickening chili. Depending on personal diet preferences, whole grains and cereals, a variety of rices, beans and legumes can be stocked.
Canned goods and specialty products

One of many specialty pastas

I honestly do not keep a huge collection of canned goods and specialty products, usually opting to purchase the items as they are needed. Tomato products in glass are our choice and Avanti Savoia has three different brands with a variety of styles.  Some of the canned goods needed in recipes could include green chilies, pimientos, beans, artichokes, hearts of palm, packaged broths, Asian specialties (water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, and baby corn), canned tuna, salmon and anchovies and home canned anything. Authentic Italian pastas from Avanti Savoia will come in handy and most kitchens have peanut butter and perhaps some variations such as sun nut butter or almond butter.
The most subjective list of them all
Now, we come to refrigerator items and freezer foods and this probably is the most subjective list of them all. If you eat dairy products, then your refrigerator could have milk, cream, half and half, yogurt, sour cream, cheeses and eggs (although not dairy, of course). Purchase the best and most organic products that can be found. What else may be found in your ‘fridge (besides forgotten science experiments) depends entirely on your taste and cooking needs. Fresh produce, favorite condiments, olives, peppers, pickles, relishes, jellies and jams – experience will tell you what you will have a use for on a regular basis. The freezer is another area that reflects a household’s personality. I do try to catch specials on top quality seafood, poultry and meats, so as to have a few possible main courses always on hand. Because I make our own stocks, I keep a few of these reduced to a concentrated state for easier storage. It is worth noting that some of the world’s finest cuisines are based on the use of stocks and broths.
It depends
So, now at the end of this pantry ramble, I still can only offer the same comment that we started with – “it depends”. The best advice is to carefully consider your needs and budget and collect only the best quality ingredients as well as the freshest. Avanti Savoia can help!

Balsamico Tradizionale

Not always so familiar…
The words Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale roll off my tongue fairly readily these days, but it was not always so.  Sometimes, when something has become very familiar in one’s life, it’s easy to forget the time that it was not always so familiar.  That would be the case for me with Balsamic Vinegar.
Man on the ground in Italy…
Not the case for Don Vito de Carolis, Avanti Savoia’s intrepid man on the ground in Italy.  Vito personally knows the producers and carefully selects the Italian products marketed by Avanti Savoia.  Although Vito has upgraded and expanded my knowledge of Italy’s “liquid gold”, my introduction to it was over 30 years ago.
Drop by drop…
My first bottle was a gift from Chef Deborah Madison, founding chef at the San Francisco restaurant, Greens in historic Ft. Mason.  Greens Restaurant is operated under the auspices of the San Francisco Zen Center and is one of our country’s premier vegetarian restaurants. I carefully brought my treasure home and discovered its pleasure by doling it out drop by drop.
Buyers beware…
Now we see “balsamic vinaigrettes” on fast food menus as well as a range of questionable products lined up on the grocery store shelves. BUYERS BEWARE… there is plenty of fake balsamic vinegar on the market.  Many of these vinegars have only their name thing in common with the real thing. Currently, anyone anywhere can legally produce “Balsamic Vinegar of Modena”.  They can range from very sweet to pungent and savory.  The better quality (and more expensive) are aged at least three years while the “cheapies” are aged only a short time in stainless steel tanks and artificially sweetened and thickened. “Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), is not the same as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar).
Confident of the authenticity…
At Avanti Savoia, we take balsamic vinegars seriously and we are very confident of the authenticity of our entire line. REAL Balsamic Vinegars—the unique and noble “Gold Standard” of Italy—are produced only in the regions of Modena and Reggio Emilia.  It has only been during the last few decades that American cooks have discovered balsamic vinegar and elevated it to “rock star” status in the culinary world. In Italy, balsamic vinegar has been prized for centuries. In medieval times, it was valued for its healing properties. For a thousand years, wealthy Italian families have produced balsamic vinegar for their own use.
Royalty and only the most fortunate guests...
Fine aged balsamic vinegars were considered treasured family heirlooms, often as part of a bride’s dowry.  Considered “liquid gold,” small kegs of balsamic vinegar could be slowly consumed or even sold if economic conditions warranted. On special occasions, royalty and only the most fortunate guests might receive balsamic vinegar as a gift.
A select group of hoteliers...
At a recent event in Phoenix, Arizona, Avanti Savoia had the opportunity to showcase some of our more impressive balsamics at a tasting for a select group of hoteliers.  Our invitation came from one of Phoenix’s premier caterers, Creative Hands Cuisine.
Sound familiar… 
Owner and Executive Chef Doug Brochu and his wife/partner Camille Brochu describe their fare as “contemporary American Cuisine paired with a Mediterranean flair”.  Sound familiar?  The same concept could definitely be used to describe our attitude at Avanti Savoia.
The city of Phoenix’s “Point of Pride”…
The caterers provided really top notch fare at the location of the event, which was an elegant home perched on the side of Camelback Mountain, the city of Phoenix’s “Point of Pride”.  The view of the sunset over the skyline of Phoenix was a stunning backdrop for a stunning event.
Our stellar products…
Avanti Savoia provided a Balsamic tasting bar with four of our stellar products.  Included in this lineup were the following:
Acetaia Palatrini (Modena) Extra Vecchio 50 years
Giuseppe Giusti (Modena) Extra Vecchio 25 years
IL Borgo Gold (Reggio-Emilia) (Gold Corresponds to Extra Vecchio) 25 years
Giuseppe Giusti (Modena) Gold Medal Traditional 12 years
See our entire line of fine Balsamic.
Two of our most popular olive oils…
We also enhanced the tasting by including two of our most popular extra virgin olive oils; Paolo Cassini S’ciappau Gran Cru produced from the Taggiasca olive from the Linguria region of Northwest Italy and an organic oil, Marcinase pressed from the Coratina olive in the the Puglia region, the “boot heel” of Italy.
Several options…
The caterer provided a spread of delights to compliment our tasting including artisan breads, grapes, strawberries, chocolate, ice cream and a luscious platter of fine cheeses.  We suggested several options to the guests for their tasting progression.  For those interested in a serious comparative experience the plan was simply to taste the balsamics in the order of their ages.
The classic Italian manner of tasting…
That was accomplished by small amounts in demitasse spoons or in the classic Italian manner of tasting a small drop directly from the back of the hand.  There were also those guests that wanted to sample different balsamics with the different foods.  As is always the case with balsamic tastings, it was great fun to introduce the uninitiated to the joys of combining fine balsamic vinegar with strawberries or ice cream.  The consensus favorite had to be the Giuseppe Giusti Extra Vecchio.  This 25 year old beauty amazed us all with its deep round flavors full of delicate nuances.  For much more information on Giuseppe Giusti and all things balsamic, read our post A Vinegar Primer.
Salt Maestro…
We also had an excellent time with the Salt Maestro, Mark Bitterman.  Mark had also been invited to the event to share his love of gourmet salts and of course, there was much discussion between the two of us.  Try Mark’s suggestion of a tiny pinch of fine salt on a strawberry drizzled with a 50 year Balsamic.  WOW!  Mark is the author of the amazingly beautiful new book, SALTED.  For more info visit his website, www.the meadow.net
Thank you to Sara…
A last word about the staff of Creative Hands Cuisine – perfection; organized, skilled and focused.  It was a pleasure to be their guest and I must offer a truly genuine thank you to Sara, my hard working attendant; she made a special evening infinitely more pleasant!

Viva Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil and What You Need to Know.

Traditions, Myths, Lies and Facts

Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years
The story of the cultivation of olive trees, their fruit and the oil pressed from the olives goes hand in hand with the story of Western civilization. Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years, although the earliest history of olive cultivation can vary with the source of your research. Did olive trees first appear in what is now Syria and then spread to the rest of the Mediterranean basin, or was it the other way around? It is thought that wild olives were collected by prehistoric peoples as early as 8,000 BC.

...source of great power, wealth and influence
We do know that this evergreen is one of the world’s oldest cultivated trees. Olives are a member of the family Oleaceae which includes flowering plants such as forsythia, lilacs and jasmines. To the Greeks it was far more than simply a food; although olives and olive oil were one of their main sources of dietary fat. The oil of the olive was also employed for body care, soap making, fuel for lamps and a host of other uses. Besides as part of their regular (and healthful) diet, olive oil was surrounded by an aura that was medicinal, mystical and even magical. It was the source of great power, wealth and influence.

…low in saturated fat and high unsaturated fat
Modern medicine is confirming many ancient attitudes towards olive oil with evidence of many health benefits that are to be had by including the oil in our diets. This is especially true with extra virgin olive oil because of the lack of processing. The benefits of olive oil are due partially to its high content of fatty acids and polyphenols, which are antioxidants. Olive oil is also low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fat. Studies suggest that consumption of olive oil may offer protection against heart disease, high blood pressure, rheumatoid arthritis and even some cancers. Olive oil is highly digestible and helps with the body’s assimilation of vitamins A, D and K.

…ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century!
Olive cultivation did spread from Greece to Italy and Spain and today these three countries lead in both production and consumption. Olive trees are an iconic and inherent part of the Italian landscape and olive oil is produced in all regions of Italy except Piedmont and Valle D’Aosta. Throughout the highly diversified climates of Italy’s different regions there are an estimated 2.5 million acres devoted to olive trees. Some of these are truly ancient specimens, being several hundred years old. In fact, some of our own producers have examples of those ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century! A very sad fact is that there is currently a serious problem with trafficking in old specimens of olive trees. Very sad because not only are the old trees dug up, stolen and removed to the properties of unscrupulous buyers, but also because many of the trees ultimately die from the trauma.

…producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil
Italy has hundreds of olive oil producers ranging from small farms to huge commercial operations. The very best oils come from small producers who have complete control over their orchard, the harvesting of the fruit, the pressing of the olives, and the storage and eventual bottling of the product. They create only a limited number of products from a specific harvest from a limited number of trees. They do not press olives for any other farmer or from any other region. Avanti Savoia’s preferred producer is a family-owned and operated farm. “Artisan” is a fair and accurate term with which to describe these unique producers. To be selected as an Avanti Savoia artisan, producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil and every aspect of its production. Often, the farm has been in the family for years, and in many cases, generations. The finest extra virgin olive oils are produced from olive trees that are cultivated without the use of pesticides and some are produced using entirely organic methods. Olive trees require a long, hot growing season and in the late winter or early spring (like grapes) proper pruning.

…the experience and judgment of the picker
Traditionally and ideally, the olives for extra virgin olive oil are picked by hand at a stage of ripeness that is half green and half red/brown. The olives must not be harvested by the calendar but rather by the experience and judgment of the picker. Each olive is hand selected at the exact moment it reaches the proper maturity to produce the highest quality of flavor and nutritional value.

Ripe olives are easily bruised...
Additionally, the press and the bottling facility must be readily available, ideally on the farm itself. Ripe olives are easily bruised and must be held in small containers before pressing in order to avoid being squeezed by their own weight and begin deterioration. A controlled environment with ultra sanitary conditions is paramount. The pressing process must be accomplished in the briefest time possible.

…all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed”
The best oils are pressed within a few hours, and certainly not to exceed 24 hours after the harvest, any delay beyond this time frame has a detrimental effect on the quality of the oil. The pressing to extract the oil must happen quickly and at a controlled temperature of (ideally) of less than 80 degrees F. This does constitute “cold pressed,” but this term is primarily a marketing device, as all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed.” The freshly pressed oil is filtered, stored in stainless steel containers and saturated with an inactive gas until bottling. The actual bottling of the oil must be in very dark green or brown bottles. Before the bottling a scientific check must be run to verify chemical and organic characteristics of the oil. Professional experts also are responsible for tasting the oils in order to evaluate the many flavor and sensory aspects.

Some …oils are blends and others are made with a single cultivar
As in the growing of grapes, climate, type of soil (terroir), variety of olive (cultivar) and the time of harvest account for the different organoleptic (flavor, bouquet and other sensory) properties of different oils. Some extra virgin olive oils are blends of several varieties and others are made with a single cultivar. Avanti Savoia markets olive oils made from blends (Montecroce, Pruneti, Colonna and Le Magnolie) and oils from only one cultivar (Marcinase from Coratina olives, Cassini from Taggiasca, and Geraci using Nocellara del Belice).

Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue…
Extra virgin olive oil and wine also share the same “enemies:” heat, oxygen and light. Olive oils have a relatively short shelf life and once the bottles are opened and exposed to oxygen, the oils will naturally begin to break down and lose both their organoleptic and nutritive properties. Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue, although older oils can still be excellent cooking oils. Storage after purchase is also important. If possible, extra virgin olives oils are best stored in a cool, dark place like a cabinet. Do not store or display your oil on or near your stove or on a window sill.

…a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity
The flavors of fine extra virgin olive oils can also be just as complex as in the nuances in fine wines. Generally this is considered to be a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity. Other sensations can run the gamut of flavors, again just like wine tasting; mild, intense, rich, delicate, full bodied, buttery, vegetal, nutty, floral, grassy and many other adjectives limited only by the taster’s sensitivity (and vocabulary)! Excellent extra virgin olive oil is neither bland nor neutral, although it is true that different oils are best suited to different culinary uses. Colors may range from green to golden to pale yellow, although color itself is not an indication of the oil’s overall quality. In fact, at official IOOC tastings, samples are served in dark colored glass so as not to influence the tasters.

Different standards for quality and flavors are set by several different organizations.

The European Community (EU):
Extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality and is considered to have the most perfect taste. In an organoleptic rating system of 10, it has a minimum rating of 6.5. This excellent extra virgin olive oil has very low acidity (1% or less), and is untreated.
Olive oil has a minimum organoleptic rating of 5.5 and a 2% maximum acidity and is also untreated.
All other olive oils involve production techniques that include treatments.

International Olive Oil Commission (IOOC)
The IOOC recognizes two categories; Olive Oil and Olive Pomice Oil. The Olive Pomice Oil is not fit for human consumption and so we will not delve into it here.
The IOOC requires that Olive Oil must not be adulterated with any other type of oil; further it must be obtained solely by mechanical means that do not alter the oil and pass tests for genuineness and purity. The IOOC divides Olive Oil into three types, although it is only the first two that really concern us.
Extra virgin olive oil is judged to have zero defects with less that 0.8 acidity. It is the highest rated.
Virgin olive oil is ranked slightly lower than Extra virgin with defects not over a specific level and less than 2% acidity.
There is a third rating, Ordinary virgin which is inferior oil used for industrial purposes and not even approved by the EU for bottling.

United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has an antiquated grading system and the US is not a member of the IOOC. Therefore the IOOC’s standards have no legal standing in the US, which means deception and fraud are unfortunate possibilities. Labeling descriptions and terms offer no guarantees either. Remember that “first pressed, cold pressed extra virgin olive oil” is simply a marketing term. All extra virgin olive oil is by definition the first pressed and it is processed cold. There is no second pressed extra virgin oil. Labels proclaiming to be 100% olive oils or “Pure” olive oils are often processed blends. “Light” blends refer to a lack of flavor not calories, as all olive oils contain the same 120 calories.

Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils
In the July 2008 issue of Cook’s Illustrated an article on olive oil states, “Is the supermarket the best place to buy your extra virgin olive oil? Unfortunately, we’d have to say no.” Authenticity can only be assured by purchasing from very reliable companies that have personal and authentic ties with the actual producers. Vito De Carolis is an Avanti Savoia Partner and our resident olive oil expert. Vito is a native of the city of Turin and extremely familiar with producers of fine Italian olive oils. For years Vito scouted the country for the best extra virgin olive oils for his own personal consumption and now he does the same for you. Vito has personally visited each of our producers during their harvest and observed their practices in great detail. This experience allows us to provide our customers with what we consider the “best of the best.” This also enables us to offer our products with 100% assurance of quality and authenticity.

“Caveat emptor”
In a now famous article a couple of years ago, The New Yorker alleged that because regulations can be so lax, fraud is rampant. This is especially true with bulk producers who adulterate their oil and take advantage of the possibilities of inaccurate labeling. A label can suggest that oil was bottled in Italy and is a product of Italy, but does not have to mention that the olives were not grown or the oil not produced in Italy. Remember “Caveat emptor,” let the buyer beware!

…olive oil “fanatics”
At Avanti Savoia, we are proud of our status as olive oil “fanatics.” We will continue to search Italy for this “culinary treasure” and go to great lengths to bring you the finest extra virgin olive oils at the very best price. Live long, love well and enjoy extra virgin olive oil.

Buon Appetito!