HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US

Great Quality and Value for You!

Old school personal service
Avanti Savoia is celebrating our third Anniversary and we invite you to join the party. A good party it has been too, but it is only going to get better. Avanti Savoia is (and will continue to be) about authentic quality and old school personal service. From the beginning we have always been passionate about our company. We hope this passion comes through in our personal enthusiasm for our great products. “If we won’t put it on our table, we’ll never ask you to put it on yours.” We are also deeply committed to bring to your table the value and savings that are so absolutely essential in our present economy.

The most competitive prices
We love being your gourmet internet market, but we want to be more. By offering fantastic savings on fantastic products, we are striving to be your everyday online source for true culinary gems. It is our goal to provide carefully selected products that reflect the highest quality with the most competitive prices on the internet or even at your neighborhood grocery store. “Providing Affordable Luxury” is not just an empty marketing ploy. It is a real expression of our philosophy and our mission.

Something exciting about just walking in our door
Working in the office and warehouse of Avanti Savoia often brings to mind images of the old spice and trade caravans. The atmosphere is rich with the aroma of truffles, herbs, spices, coffees and a subtle mélange of dozens of other delights. There is something exciting about just walking in our door.

Samples
Beside the expected examples of modern communication technology, stacks of notes, cookbooks and other reference material, our desks and office tables always seem to have “samples.” Truly samples of “Culinary Treasures from Around the World.”

What exotic flavors will a new day bring?
The tasting of a potential new product is a fun and educational experience for us all at Avanti. Who knows what exotic flavors a new day will bring? It might be a new honey from Hawaii or an excellent coffee from a regional roaster. Maybe it will be a rich new chocolate from a supplier in Europe or South America.

Not quite as formal as a wine tasting
Although our regular tastings are not quite as formal as a wine tasting, they do share some similar techniques. We all silently nibble or sip the particular product to be tasted, ponder it a bit and then each of us express our opinions. More often than not we are in complete agreement, but always learning from the other’s perceptions. It always takes a strong consensus of approval for a new product to be added to the Avanti Savoia “family.”

Restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy
We’ve told the story of our Avanti family before, but it still remains a good story. Avanti Savoia’s founding partners, Doug Slocum and Vito De Carolis have known each other for almost 20 years. First, as associates in the global stone industry, then as good friends visiting and sampling unique specialties at restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy.

Impressive knowledge
Doug became intrigued with “all these marvelous foods and tastes that just weren’t available here.” He says, “the idea came that we would start a business bringing very high-quality gourmet, limited-edition type foods to the US as an internet company.” Turin native, Vito De Carolis was “a natural partner” with his extensive experience traveling the world and his impressive knowledge of cooking and food.

“Serendipity”
Armed with a new MBA, Doug’s son Ben Slocum became president of our company. His expertise in business matters and the world of cyber space is vital to the daily operations of Avanti Savoia. Ben also has had a golden opportunity to develop a world class palate that is certainly unique in the world of business. A chance meeting introduced the trio to me, Joseph Lowery. Doug calls it “serendipity,” I call it an ideal job for an experienced chef that loves to taste, cook, write (and express opinions).

As much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible
Avanti Savoia is striving to provide you with as much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible through Our Blog, Don Vito’s Forum, and two new useful features on our website. Visit our Recipes and Cooking Section for an amazing collection of hundreds of recipes that continues to grow daily. Our customers and readers can even post instructions for their own favorite dishes. We are also proud of our new feature entitled Health and Nutrition, with informative articles written by our own Registered Dietitian, Merry Thomas M.S. R.D. L.D.

Convenient … to combat hunger
We are also well aware that all pantries are not as well stocked as ours. We address this problem by providing a page entitled, Feed the Hungry. This is a feature that makes it convenient when placing an order, to also be able to make a donation locally, nationally or globally to combat hunger.

Passion
Avanti Savoia: passion for authentic quality, personal service, information, education and value and savings.

Thanks for coming to our party!

THEY’RE BAAACK!

A true gourmet’s delight!

…the forest floor reveals nothing unusual and then…
Every spring we watch the woods for the signs. About the time that the young ferns begin to unfurl and the wood anemones start to bloom, we know that it is time to start looking for the morels. It is always along our creek under a stand of Tulip Poplars that we hope to find them. At first, the forest floor revels nothing unusual and then we find the first one, then the second and as our eyes become more accustomed to looking for them, the easier they are to spot.

“shroom hunting”
This is our second year to be able to share this bounty with Avanti Savoia’s owners, Doug and Ben Slocum. It is becoming a tradition for Ben and I to go “shroom hunting” each April and a tradition that I hope will last a long time. This season Doug actually found his own morels on his property to his obvious delight. He did however; bring them to me for a positive ID.

Being as we shared a post last year with you about morels, we decided to reprint it in part.

“Dry land fish”
Commonly known as the Morel mushrooms, they are also known locally as “dry land fish” and can occur throughout North America. The old-timers were well aware of them and prepared them usually by rolling them in cornmeal and frying them in hot fat. The black morels, Morchella elata seem to be the most available, although we are blessed to be able to find the yellow or white morel, sometimes called the “Honeycomb Morel.” These little gems can grow to be much larger than black morels and are astoundingly succulent.

…springtime ritual…
They can be stuffed and baked, fried, grilled, and cooked a la crème, in sauces, flans, ragouts, omelets and as garnishes in a good many European classics. Although, available dried or canned, it is in their freshest state, prepared simply that we enjoy them the most. This is a true gourmet’s delight, freshly harvested wild morels! We prize this springtime ritual so much, that although choice fresh morels can fetch around $50 a pound this year, we only share them with friends and eat them ourselves.

…the best harvest ever…
Some years produce a generous morel harvest while others do not- it all depends on the amount of rain, when it rains, early spring temperatures, ground temperatures and probably other subtle conditions of which I’m not even aware. I can however, report on how much fun it is to hunt for them and how very delicious they can be. The ‘07 harvest was a bit scarce and ’08 was a good season, but this year (’09) has been the best harvest ever. I have heard “through the grapevine” that other mushroom hunters are experiencing abundant harvests, as well.

“You must be 100% sure of identification”
I also came across a world of useful information on the internet, especially a site entitled
www.thegreatmorel.com – This particular site has the most useful information that I’ve seen so far. They have a comprehensive collection of recipes. Not only lots of mushroom lore, but also identification hints and very clear information about the “false” morel (Gyromitra esculenta, Verpa, Hellvella and Discoiotis) which can be toxic. The false morels only vaguely resemble true morels, but we must insert a word of caution here before sharing a few easy recipes. I have been hunting selected wild mushrooms for over 35 years. I have received instruction from botany teachers from two different universities and field experience with a number of knowledgeable amateurs. I particularly remember the opening words from a retired University of Washington Professor. “Hunting wild mushrooms is a one hundred percent activity. You must be 100% sure of identification, a 99% guess can kill you,” he solemnly warned. Take this to heart! You must be very sure of your harvest! Do not attempt to identify wild mushrooms from a guide book. “Hands on” training is required. That having been said, here are some ideas for preparing fresh morels.

Cleaning:
Cut off the “foot” of the mushroom just above the dirt line. Slice the mushroom lengthwise, lightly rinse and soak them in a solution of salt water for about 1 hour or less. This should remove any bits of sand or soil and dislodge any little critters. Make sure that after removing from the salt water that the morels are well dried before cooking. Some mushroom lovers prefer to forego the soaking, as they feel it takes away from the true mushroom flavor, but I still think that soaking is a good idea.
Grilled:
This is as easy as it gets and fabulous with a nice steak. Again, carefully dry the split morels and brush with one of Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils that have been seasoned with a little minced garlic, salt and pepper. Of course you can jazz it up with herbs, lemon juice, etc., etc., but do not cover up the marvelous fresh mushroom flavor.
Place the seasoned morels over hot coals and cook until they are just lightly marked. Do not overcook these babies and eat ‘em while their hot!
Beer Batter Fried:
Here is a basic recipe for Misto Fritto, classic Italian mixed fried vegetables. It also works great with any kind of mushroom. Also, if you are lucky enough to have fresh squash or pumpkin blossoms from a summer garden, this is also the way to cook them.

Ingredients for batter:
4 eggs, beaten
1/3 cup beer
2 cups all-purpose flour

About 3 cups oil* #19999 Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Oil for frying
Sel de Mer* #35021 (fine sea salt) to taste

Recipe:
1. In a large bowl, beat together the eggs and beer.
2. Place the flour in a large bowl right next to the eggs/beer.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until very hot.
4. Flour the morel pieces, shake off any excess, and dip into the egg mixture.
5. Shake off excess egg and begin frying a few at a time turning as needed to lightly brown. Remove with a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper salt, if desired and enjoy.

Sautéed Morel Sandwiches:
Clean morels as for other recipes. Simply sauté the mushrooms in the hot oil or butter, turning until tender. Place on a paper towel to drain and make a sandwich using toasted whole wheat bread, mustard flavored mayonnaise, fried bacon, and slices of fresh tomato.

NOTE: We usually serve morels with beer or a dry Riesling and have never experience a problem. However some mushroom guides do however warn of upset stomachs when morels are served with alcohol. Proceed with caution!

A VINEGAR PRIMER

Ancient indeed is the history of vinegar. Over the centuries, vinegars have been employed for culinary, health, body care and even cleaning purposes. We derive our word vinegar from the French “Vin Aigre” meaning sour wine, although all vinegars are not necessarily made from wine. Most are made from some fermented product with the exception being the famed balsamic vinegars.

…understand the difference…
To understand the difference between vinegars in general and balsamic vinegars specifically, it is helpful to know a few facts.

…on the market today
The more readily available vinegars on the market today include:

Distilled White Vinegar- usually made from distilled grain alcohol, it is sharply acidic, sour and unpleasant. Although commonly used in pickle making, its harsh flavor is not recommended in cooking.

Apple Cider Vinegar- produced from fermented apple cider has a mild apple flavor and is appropriate to use where a low acidity is desired.

Malt or Beer Vinegar- like beer, ale and scotch, this vinegar is made from malted barley and is a favorite in Britain, traditionally served with Fish and Chips.

Berry and Fruit Vinegars- are sweet, mild and delicate… delicious with fruit dishes and in salad dressings.

Herb Vinegar- is actually selected vinegar that has been infused with an herb or an assortment of herbs. Probably the best known is Tarragon Vinegar, often used to make Béarnaise sauce.

Honey Vinegar- historically speaking this is the most ancient of vinegars dating back to the Egyptians. In addition to the purported healthful properties, this vinegar is known for its very complex aroma. It is used in cooking and sometimes, beverages. Check out ours!

Rice Vinegar- is common ingredient in Chinese, Japanese and other Asian cuisines. Very low acidity makes this vinegar one of the mildest of all varieties.

Wine Vinegar- made with red wine, Sherry, white wine or Champagne, the flavor profiles can range from potent and pungent to light and mild. These are familiar ingredients in Vinaigrettes and many other cooking uses. Check out our selection!
… “rock star” status
Balsamic Vinegars- The unique and noble “Gold Standard” of Italy produced in the regions of Modena and Reggio Emilia. It has only been during the last three decades that American cooks have discovered balsamic vinegar and elevated it to “rock star” status in the culinary world.

… “liquid gold”…
In Italy, balsamic vinegar has been prized for centuries. In medieval times, it was valued for its healing properties and at one time was even believed to be a cure for the plague. For a thousand years, wealthy Italian families have produced balsamic vinegar for their own use, but it has only been available commercially for the last 40 years or so. Fine aged balsamic vinegars were considered treasured family heirlooms, often as part of a bride’s dowry. Considered “liquid gold,” small kegs of balsamic vinegar could be slowly consumed or even sold if economic conditions warranted. On special occasions, royalty and only the most fortunate guests might receive balsamic vinegar as a gift.

…no traditional balsamic vinegar ever really starts from “scratch”…
To produce fine balsamic vinegar, the must which is unfermented juice from whole grapes (usually Trebbiano and/or Lambrusco) including the skins, seeds and stems is cooked and reduced to dark syrup. This syrup is then placed in a barrel containing a small amount of an earlier batch of balsamic vinegar and then aged in a progression of smaller and smaller wooden barrels or kegs. When vinegar is drawn from the smallest and oldest of the lot, this barrel is topped up with vinegar drawn from the next smallest and so forth until the largest barrel receives the new batch of the cooked must. None of the barrels or casks is ever fully emptied. So, there is no such thing as a vintage because no traditional balsamic vinegar ever really starts from “scratch.” These barrels are usually made from oak, chestnut, cherry wood, ash, mulberry, acacia and juniper, with each wood adding its own character and nuances. The collection of these barrels is referred to as a “batteria.”

New barrels
In Reggio Emilia, new barrels must first be certified by the Consorzio fra Produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizione di Reggio Emilia. This is also the group that is responsible for the evaluation and classification of the vinegars themselves. Upon approval, the barrels are branded with a special seal and then seasoned through a process that can take two years. Old Balsamico barrels are highly treasured and revered.

…prized and priced…
The batteria of barrels is stored in maturation rooms in attics to benefit from hot summers and cold winters, which allow for the different stages of development. Holes in the tops of the barrels are covered with cotton cloths and tiles of porous stones. As the vinegar ages it naturally reduces by evaporation through the barrels, which in turn thickens and concentrates the flavor and increases complexity. The longer the vinegar ages, the more highly it is prized and priced.

…evaluating and certifying…
When evaluating and certifying the quality of “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar) the tasters of the consortium are responding primarily to the taste, balance and other characteristics, not the age. However, age classifications for marketing purposes do exist and are divided into the following categories starting with the oldest and grandest.

“Extra Vecchio” (extra old) Balsamico is 25 year old Traditional Balsamic produced in Modena. “Oro” (Gold Label) Traditional Balsamic is the corresponding product from Reggio Emilia.

“Invecchio” (old) Balsamic is 18 year Traditional Balsamic from Modena, while in Reggio Emilia it is known as “Argento” (Silver Label).
“Affinato” is the 12 year Traditional Balsamic of Modena and the Reggio Emilia version is the “Aragosta” (Red/Orange/Salmon Label).

Condimentos
“Balsamico Condimento” (Condiment) Strictly speaking, these vinegars are not authentic Traditional Balsamic Vinegar and cannot be labeled as such. However, some of the best producers choose to sell their products that cannot pass the Consortium regulations as “Condimento.” Although they employ similar techniques, the various products in the market place have different characteristics regarding acidity, density, color and overall quality. “Condimentos” are not as complex or “deep” as Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, but can still taste quite good. This having been said, there are some fine vinegars at reasonable prices among this style.

BUYER BEWARE
“Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), these are various vinegars that have only one thing in common- their name. Currently, anyone anywhere can legally produce Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. They can range from very sweet to pungent and savory. The better quality (and more expensive) are aged at least three years while the “cheapies” are aged only a few months in stainless steel tanks and artificially sweetened and thickened. These vinegars far outsell the real thing and can be good for everyday use. BUYER BEWARE… there is plenty of fake balsamic vinegar on the market. “Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), is not the same as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar)

Generic Balsamic Vinegar The traditional methods are used to make these vinegars, but they are produced using must grown in the areas where they are produced- (outside the regions of Modena or Reggio Emilia).

“Balsamela” (Country Style Apple Balsamic) “Balsamela” is a highly appreciated vinegar utilizing traditional techniques but using Vignola apples instead of grapes.

White Balsamic Vinegar Although the product is made in Modena, the difference is in the color, taste and production process. The must is prepared first by pressure cooking and then aging for 1 year in uncharred barrels. In the cooking process caramelization is avoided and the aging technique keeps the vinegar lighter in color and flavor, making it an excellent accompaniment to fish. Check out ours!

…balance…
The key to any well made vinegar is balance. All vinegars will display an expected acidity of course, but it should be an acidity that is balance with the fruit and other flavors. Tasting the most famous vinegar in the world, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, is not unlike tasting wine. The difference being that you only taste a small amount of balsamic vinegar not drinking an entire glass. In fact traditionally, this legendary vinegar is tasted by pouring a drop on the back of the hand and then tasting directly. Tasting from small spoons works just fine, as well. Good balsamic vinegar should be a rich, dark brown, syrupy like substance with a distinctly complex, acid fragrance. The flavor should be sweet and sour in perfect proportion. On the palate it should be full, round and luxurious with a variety of nuances.

A Few recipes using vinegars:

Béarnaise Sauce (made with tarragon vinegar)
The French chef that taught me to make Béarnaise insisted on using clarified butter for all emulsified sauces; however the New Orleans influenced chefs of the gulf coast preferred to use whole butter. I like the whole butter version better and it’s quicker to prepare. Do not use an aluminum pan when making this recipe.
Yields about 6 servings

2 Tablespoons shallots, minced
½ cup tarragon vinegar
½ cup dry white wine
2 Tablespoons dried tarragon
2 Tablespoons dried chervil or parsley
3 egg yolks
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, melted
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground white pepper
Salt to taste

(1) Combine minced shallots, tarragon vinegar, wine, tarragon and chervil or parsley.
(2) Bring to simmer in a small saucepan and reduce liquid to a little less than 1/3 cup.
(3) Remove saucepan from heat and allow to cool.
(4) Separate eggs and place yolks in a round stainless steel bowl. Reserve whites for another purpose.
(5) Strain cooked herb mixture from the saucepan, reserving herbs, and add liquid to egg yolks and whisk well.
(6) Select a pan a little wider in diameter than the bowl with the egg yolks in it so that the bowl can spin freely. Fill pan with about an inch of water and bring the water to a gentle simmer. Do not bring to a boil.
(7) Place bowl of egg yolks and reduction liquid into the pan of simmering water, rotating bowl quickly and whipping yolks briskly with a wire whisk.
(8) Slowly at first, dribble in a few drops of the melted butter, whisking constantly. As the sauce emulsifies, continue to add the remaining butter, a little at a time, until all the sauce has thickened. The stainless steel bowl may have to be removed and then returned to the heat several times while the butter is being added to maintain the proper consistency.
(9) Add a heaping tablespoon of the reserved shallots/herb mixture and the pinches of cayenne, nutmeg and white pepper. Add salt to taste.
(10) If necessary, the sauce may be thinned by beating in a little warm water. Enjoy Béarnaise sauce with roast beef and just about anything off the grill. Serve warm but do not try to reheat as it will brake and curdle.


Braised Asparagus Tips with Raspberry Vinegar
Serves 6

4 cups asparagus tips (about 2 inches long)
3 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons chicken stock or water
¼ cup raspberry vinegar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more)
1 teaspoon salt or to taste

(1) Slice the top 2 inches off the asparagus spears and save stalks for a soup.
(2) Melt butter in a large sauté pan.
(3) Add asparagus tips and stir a bit. Cook over a medium heat 3 minutes.
(4) Add stock or water, raspberry vinegar, red pepper flakes and salt.
(5) Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring occasionally. About the time the liquid has cooked off, the asparagus should be ready. Serve immediately.


Pickled Peaches (made with apple cider vinegar)
A perfect match with Southern Fried Chicken
Yields 4 quarts

12 – 14 small ripe, unblemished peaches (figs work well too)
About 3 dozen whole cloves (3 per peach)
2 cups light brown sugar
3 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup water
4 cinnamon sticks
1 Tablespoon whole allspice

(1) Parboil peaches 3 to 4 minutes and dip into cold water to quickly remove skins, but do not cut the peach or remove stones.
(2) Stud each peach with 3 whole cloves. Set aside.
(3) In a large stainless steel or enameled pan, combine brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, water, cinnamon sticks and allspice. Cover and bring to a low boil.
(4) Add peaches 3 or 4 at a time, and simmer together for 10 minutes.
(5) Allow peaches to stand in liquid 4 to 6 hours.
(6) Spoon peaches into hot, sterilized wide-mouth jars.
(7) Bring remaining syrup to boil. Place 1 stick of the cinnamon into each jar and cover with hot syrup including a few allspice, leaving a little space at the top of each jar.
(8) Place seals and lids on immediately. Allow to settle and cool. Pickled peaches should age at least 1 month.

STILTON Salad Dressing

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Yields about 1 cup


Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
¼ cup dry white wine
2 oz. stilton blue cheese
3 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
2 shallots, minced
⅛ tsp. white truffle salt
⅛ tsp. freshly ground black peppercorn

In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Toss with salad greens



Poached pears with white Balsamic vinegar

Preparation time: 45 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients:

½ cup sugar
1 cup water
4 large Bosc pears, halved peeled and cored
1 cup fresh ricotta cheese
¼ cup almond, toasted and coarsely chopped
4 Tbsp with balsamic vinegar


Recipe:

1.) Preheat oven at 350°F.

2.) Combine sugar and water in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil and cook few minutes to make syrup.

3.) Place pears in shallow ovenproof dish, and pour syrup over them. Cover with foil, and bake until tender, about 20 - 25 minutes.

4.) Remove from oven, and cool until just warm.

5.) Place 2 pear halves on each of four plates with a dollop of fresh ricotta and a sprinkle with almonds. Spoon any syrup remaining in pan over and around the pears. Drizzle 1 Tbsp of white balsamic vinegar over each portion, and serve.


Balsamic Vinegar Reductions
Cooking with an Extra Vecchio, Invecchio or even Traditional Balsamic is like making a wine sauce with fine vintage Bordeaux. Its not that it wouldn’t taste good, but it would be wasteful because other far less expensive wines would work just as well.
It is possible to convert an inexpensive balsamic into a rich syrup by the process of reduction. Use only stainless steel or enameled pans for the reducing process to avoid reactions with the acid in the vinegar. Over a very low heat cook the vinegar slowly until the liquid is reduced by 1/2 to 2/3 of the original. Heating and reducing will increase the sweetness and reduce the acidity, although a little brown sugar can also be added for a more sweetness, if desired. The resulting syrup can be used as is on fresh fruit, roasted vegetables, cheeses, pastries, desserts, pancakes or even ice cream. Restaurant chefs even used balsamic reductions as a garnish to decorate plates.

A quick and spectacular pan reduction sauce will go really well with chicken breasts, lamb chops, game, pork, or beef medallions. Rub the pieces of meat with your choice of seasoning (salt, pepper, thyme, tarragon, rosemary, etc.). Heat about two tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the meat on both sides until it reaches desired doneness. Remove cooked meat and reserve on a warm platter until you finish making the sauce.

To finish and serve: Mince 2 or 3 shallots and sauté gently in the same pan in which you cooked the meat. When shallots are translucent (do not scorch or they will turn bitter), deglaze pan by adding ¼ cup balsamic vinegar and ¾ cup meat stock; reduce to about 1/3 cup, remove from heat and whisk in 2 Tablespoons of butter until smooth. Pour onto meat and serve, garnished with a sprig of a fresh herb. Rich, smooth, sweet, tangy…amazing!

THE APPEAL AND UMBRAGE OF ANTHONY BOURDAIN

As I made my way out of the crowded balcony of the theater, I heard the voice of The Knoxville News Sentinel Food Writer, Mary Constantine. “Hey chef, did you have fun?” she asked. The question caught me somewhat off guard, but after a moment’s hesitation, I answered “well yes, I guess I did.”

Her query referred to the 90 minutes or so that we had just spent listening to the phenomena that is Anthony Bourdain. I was at the time, already sorting through my diverse reactions (and crafting this post) about the man and his message.

In writing about this, I am determined to try to avoid some of the clichés that are so often used to describe Chef Bourdain. “Bad boy of cuisine”, “anti-celebrity chef”, “outspoken”, “rants and raves”…I would really like to come up with my own descriptions and honest reactions. Let’s see how I do.

First of all, we can start with “honest” …yes, I thought he was honest, even if I did not always appreciate the way he expressed himself. He was honest in a way that I swear reminded me of the poetry of Allen Ginsburg, read in person by the author. I was fortunate enough to have been able to spend a little time around Allen in the 70’s and that was my word for him, honest… sometimes embarrassing and uncomfortable, sometimes inspiring, but definitely his own truth.

I did not walk into the theater a “big fan” of Bourdain, but not particularly antagonistic either. I was curious and intended to make up my own mind about the guy. I knew a bit about him through his shows and reputation. I have also read just one of his books, which I thought was weird, but fascinating in kind of a guilty, voyeuristic way.

The stage was bare except for a drawn curtain and the wooden podium that the chef utterly avoided. Bourdain entered the stage to enthusiastic applause from the mostly packed house. I realized as I took in the crowd, that the younger generation of restaurant cooks and workers (with tattoos, piercing, and other fashion statements) were well represented. Later, as I listened to the question and answer segment, I noted the deference with which many addressed the chef. He is clearly a hero (notice, I resisted using anti-hero) to many of the millennial generation and maturing members of generation “y”- and I see why, I think.

What I gather is that Chef Bourdain is not necessarily critical of the classic lions of the modern culinary world, but is really truthful about the hard realities of working in a modern restaurant kitchen. He was also really truthful about the character flaws of many of us associated with this profession. However, I think he reserves his most genuine contempt for the modern “celebrity” chef and the media star making machine that creates them. To his credit, he also recognizes that his success is based on the same media.

As I have reached a little deeper into his statements regarding some of these celebrities, I see that he can be very contemptuous of the content of their shows but still respectful and even good friends with many of them. (Not all, of course)- I’m not sure how he could be more disgusted with the work of Sandra Lee or The Food Network in general. I am very glad however to have found one of his statements concerning a personal culinary hero of mine, Julia Child. The chef writes …” the saintly Julia Child sought to raise expectations, to enlighten us—teach us – and in fact, did…”

He proclaimed that he did not consider his career as a working chef to have been particularly distinguished, but now he has the “best job” in the world. He calls himself an “old school French chef”, a description that I like a lot, of course. I’m not quite sure his opinions about New American and Fusion Cuisine, but I’m guessing it depends on whether or not it was well prepared. Other examples of his opinions were very unambiguous. Bourdain calls the popular program Hell’s Kitchen (which I loathe) “a circus of cruelty”.

He certainly has a lot of freedom to do what he wants and says what he thinks in whatever colorful language that suits him. He is indeed noted for his profanity and the fact is that his language was a little hard for one of the members of our group that attended the event together. She is a very elegant and cultured lady in her eighties and it was certainly a little rough for her. It was quite clear to me however, that his loyal fan based loved it- based on their wild cheers after each expletive.

In the darkened theater it was impossible to take any notes and it was probably not necessary anyway, because a good deal of his presentation can be found on line, in his books, blog etc., etc. –this not a criticism, but actually rather convenient for anyone wishing to write about him or at least his opinions.

For a man whose reputation is totally entwined with judgments and criticism, I was surprised to note that some of my first impressions of him were of his open mindedness. I really admire his appreciation of the everyday people of the world, their kitchens and their real food and customs. His advice about not eating in restaurants frequented by tourist Americans while traveling in foreign countries was well taken.

I enthusiastically agreed with his attitude toward trying new foods, pushing personal limitations and honestly examining cultural prejudices. My wife and I have been appalled by some of the comments that have been made by some acquaintances returning from Cancun. Such as –“we didn’t even have to change our money into pesos or we stayed right at our hotel and ate all the time at the golden arches where everyone spoke English” … we find ourselves thinking “why did you even bother going to Mexico in the first place?”

I still wouldn’t describe myself as a “big fan” exactly, but I think Anthony Bourdain is a very healthy development in our “foodie” culture. He confronts issues that need to be addressed and stimulates valuable discussion and debate. In the several days since Mr. Bourdain’s appearance, I’ve given the man and his work a good deal of thought, and you know what I did have fun –a lot of fun!

THE HOT TAMALE MAN

Over 50 years ago, long before the American Culinary Revolution, vendors still walked through residential areas in my hometown pushing carts selling ice cream. There were little tinkling bells on their carts to announce their presence. Now, as a child, I was hardly denied a reasonable amount of ice cream, (especially homemade). However, I suppose that my parents did not want me begging for ice cream ever single day when the man went by our house with his cart.

So, they invented a subterfuge that must have worked for a number of years, at least until the other kids clued me into reality. My folks told me that the man with the cart was the “Hot Tamale Man” and assured me that I wouldn’t care for hot tamales. Remembering the “Hot Tamale Man” with senior members of my family can still bring us all a chuckle.

Now, as fate would have it, when I actually discovered real tamales I liked them very much. Clearly, so did the early inhabitants of Mexico, who were enjoying a whole range of tamales long before the Spaniards arrived.

There is still an enormous variety of tamales available all over the different regions of Mexico, as well as an enormous variety prepared in regions across America. Some of these are reflections of traditional Mexican cooking and some are created according to the whims of the individual cooks. My tamale story involves a little of both tradition and whim.

A few months ago, our friends with the American Wine Society requested that we do a program matching wine with Southwestern cuisine. I had really wanted to do this for some time and here was the chance. We celebrated our “fiesta” at the beautiful home of society members Bob and Judy Kryter.

It was not a particular region of Mexico that inspired me nor a specific adaptation from the Southwestern border states, although I was certainly influenced by my work and travels. “Comida Nueva” is a definition probably closer to the mark, but when asked about the definition of “Southwestern cuisine”, my answer was, “whatever we want it to be”… I really wasn’t trying to be smart-alecky, but I was trying to make a point – that being the fact that a whole new wave of culinary excitement has swept the US in the last few decades. New American, Regional American, and Fusion Cuisine – it can have several names but we are basically talking about classic cooking techniques paired with regional foodstuffs.

This is the major theme (some might say obsession) in my career. In the early 80s, I wrote in the preface for our book, A TEXAS FAMILY’S COOKBOOK -“Americans have become much more sophisticated in their native cookery. This grafting of classic techniques onto good home cooking is a major milestone in our national culinary history. …explore the New American Cooking; refining familiar dishes with classic preparation techniques and an increased awareness of health and nutrition. Perhaps this “new” cooking is simply a deeper appreciation of our potential of producing a cuisine truly global in scope and authority.”

Over 25 years later in his 2007 book, WHITE HOUSE CHEF, Chef Walter Scheib, indicates that his staff was directed toward “…making the White House a showcase for what our farmers and other culinary purveyors were creating, and also for the style being forged by modern American chefs who wove indigenous American ingredients and international elements and styles together into an exciting, ever-changing cuisine that defied easy description- and was garnering a great deal of attention from coast to coast and around the world.”

Now, my fun little dinner hardly aspires to the lofty heights of White House cuisine, but I think Chef Scheib’s observation is well taken. The recipes used were our own creations and adaptations with the exception of the Mole Poblano, which is taken from Diana Kennedy’s authoritative classic, THE CUISINES OF MEXICO. If you have the slightest interest in the cuisine and culture of Mexico, this is a cookbook that must be in your library.

Here is our menu and a list of the wines we enjoyed.

Quaffing Wine: White Wine Spritzer with lime

Antojitos (Appetizers)
Black Bean Pate
Ceviche with
Red Snapper, Scallops and Shrimp
Guacamole with Oranges
Pickled Garlic (from Low Country Produce-TRY THIS!)
Salsa de Aji Amarillo*
Blue Corn Tostados

Served with
‘06 Columbia Crest “Vineyard 10” - WA. State
’04 Albert Seltz Gewurztraminer - Alsace

Platillo fuerte (Main Course)
Open Faced Turkey Tamales with Mole Sauce
Squash simmered with Cream
Mexican Rice

Served with
‘07 Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec – Argentina
’07 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc – Sonoma Co.

Postre (Dessert)
Texas Pecan Tart with Blue Bell Vanilla Ice Cream
Drizzled with
Leaning Oaks Cabernet Chocolate Sauce

Served with
NV Domaine Chandon Brut Classic – Napa Valley

So as not to be just guessing about these pairings, we prepared a “Chef’s Table” a few weeks earlier. Margaritas and beer usually tend to be the beverages of choice with this kind of cuisine. However, matching the spicy flavors with the nuances of wine was fun and educational. All in all, the combinations worked well, and with us serving two very different wines with both the appetizers and the main course, I think everyone found something they liked.

Without question, for me, the standout combination was the food friendly Malbec with the tamales… and to get back to the tamale story… In the midst of testing the tamale recipe several times, I became aware of a local cooking contest in progress, sponsored by our newspaper The Knoxville News Sentinel, a grocery store chain, and a local TV and radio station among others.

The contest was a part of a much larger event known as the Women Today Expo. The event featured a number of celebrity appearances including ABC’s Robin Roberts. The Expo also included a Cooking School segment featuring local chef and “Hell’s Kitchen” star, Carol Scott. Former White House Chef Walter Scheib and TV cake baking Master Warren Brown wowed the crowd with demos and signed copies of their respective cookbooks.

Rounding out the culinary production were the three winners of the recipe contest.
There were 3 categories including “Eat Light, Eat Cheap and Eat Sweet”- Cheryl Hodge won the “Eat Sweet’ with her Applesauce Spice Pudding Cake, Mary Gushen’s Ultimate Inexpensive Chicken Enchiladas took “Eat Cheap” and my own Open Faced Turkey Tamales won the “Eat Light” competition.

I think my wife, Gail and I made those tamales about 5 times in the course of a few weeks, including the demo at the Women Today Expo itself. Gail and I also offered a short tamale presentation at the wine society dinner, assisted by our good friend and noted Food Stylist, Linda Ullian Schmid, to whom we are much indebted.

Although, I have never though of myself as “The Hot Tamale Man”, I guess now I have some claim on the title. Surely, my parents would have been highly amused.

We offer a big “Muchas Gracias” to Bob and Judy Kryter and to the members of The American Wine Society. We also must thank Mary Constantine, Erin Slocum and the rest of the News Sentinel staff. Kudos and appreciation also go to Chris Kahn and her remarkable team of volunteers that worked so hard to make the Women Today Expo a reality.

*Aji Amarillo (Capsicum baccatum) is arguably the most popular hot pepper in Peru. It is a particularly beautiful pepper with a bright shiny yellow-orange skin. It is considered to be a medium hot pepper but that also depends on your personal taste. The flavor is fruity and aromatic and altogether delicious!
Although, this is not an ingredient common to our local markets, we are fortunate to be able to have access to it by way of our generous friends, J Owen Peterson and his wife, Thea Barrios Peterson. Thea is originally from Peru and still has many family members in that country. Owen is a noted professional photographer www.customphotographicservices.com and amateur grower of Aji peppers. In an upcoming blog, he has promised to share both photos and family recipes with us. We enjoyed serving the bright sauce Owen made using these peppers with our Southwestern dinner. THANKS!

Open-faced turkey tamales

Filling:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large white onion, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
2 pounds ground turkey
2 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
1 pickled jalapeno pepper, finely chopped
One (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

Dough:
2 quarts chicken or turkey stock
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups Masa Harina
32 dried corn husks soaked in warm water
1 cup (per pan) of chicken or turkey stock for steaming

Saute onion and green pepper in oil until soft. Stir in turkey, garlic, cumin, salt, oregano, thyme and jalapeno pepper. Cook until turkey is done, about 6-8 minutes. Pour in tomato sauce, cook another 5 minutes and set aside to cool. Make dough by bringing the stock, salt and cumin to a boil in a large stockpot. Very gradually whisk in Masa Harina to stock so that it doesn’t lump. Reduce heat to simmer. Cook 15 to 20 minutes until it is quite thick, stirring frequently. Let cool at least 10 minutes. Pat corn husks dry and spread 3 tablespoons of the dough about 1/4 inch thick over the middle of the each husk. Top with scant 1/4 cup turkey filling. Gather together each end of the tamale and tie with a strip of corn husk. Leave the middle open with the filling showing.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange tamales in one layer on bottom of baking pans (will need more than one.) Bring stock to a boil and, in each dish, pour 1 cup stock around the tamales. Cover with a lightly oiled piece of aluminum foil and place in oven. Cook for approximately 45 minutes. Serve plain or with Ranchero or Mole sauce. Yield: 24-30 tamales, depending upon how generously filled.

THE “LUCK O’ THE IRISH” REVISITED

…more than an estimated 36 million other Americans
My wife and I can both trace some of our ancestry to Ireland, as can more than an estimated 36 million other Americans. We do celebrate St. Paddy’s Day, but mostly because it’s there, rather than for any inherited tradition.

…popular “history”
In any case, much of the popular “history” of the life of this Irish saint is certainly myth. It is believed that he was born in Britain, but taken to Ireland by raiders. It seems that he was held as a prisoner and labored as a Shepard for several years before escaping and returning to Britain.

…he began to have visions
It was apparently after his return to his homeland that he began to have visions and turned his heart to religion. He did train as a priest and legend has it that he was told by an angel in one of his visions to return to Ireland as a missionary. Tradition has it that he died on March 17th around the year 460AD.

… stories that my Irish Catholic mother told me
As we know, story telling and music is a strong part of the Celtic tradition in Ireland and it is difficult over 1500 years later to separate fact from fiction. I remember quite well learning from the stories my Irish Catholic mother told me that the saint drove the snakes from Ireland. Today it is thought that this story is a metaphor for his opposition to the Irish pagans. St. Patrick is also credited with combining the Celtic symbol of the sun with the Christian cross to create what we know today as the familiar Celtic cross.

Legends aside…
Legends aside, many of the customs that we associate with our modern St. Patrick’s Day are American in origin. Our first St. Patrick’s Day parade originated in New York City and our culinary tradition of Corned Beef and Cabbage is an Irish tradition in the cabbage part alone. Although cabbage has most certainly long been a part of the Irish diet, corned beef only became part of the duo at the turn of the last century, again in New York City.

…quirk of fate
It is an interesting quirk of fate that the celebration of St. Patrick’s Day and all things Irish has become such a part of our American experience, considering the extreme negativity with which Irish immigrants experienced just a little over a century ago. Now there are at least 100 St. Patrick’s Day parades across the country, with the largest taking place in (where else?) New York City. Boston and Chicago are also well known for their celebrations with the dyeing green of the Chicago River as one of the more outlandish events.

…public imbibing
Americans also associate St. Patrick’s Day with the public imbibing of some serious liquid refreshment and such aberrations as green beer. However, this image is somewhat Americanized as well, considering that in Ireland itself, pubs were closed by law until the 1970’s.

...we have taken considerable license…that…has virtually nothing to do with…Ireland
So, considering the propensity of Americans to interpret traditions in our own way, we have taken considerable license in our own cuisine for this Irish event. A couple of years ago, my wife and I were pondering a menu for our own St. Patrick’s Day merrymaking. Not realizing the truth behind Corned Beef and Cabbage tradition, we started with the idea of smoking the brisket instead of cooking it in or on the stove. That led to our decision to make a super-duper Reuben sandwich, which we did and it was delicious, although it has virtually nothing to do with St. Patrick’s Day or Ireland!

…that’s the way I like it
Here are the components: my wife, Gail’s homemade Rye bread, Smoked Corned Beef Brisket, Bavarian Sauerkraut, good Swiss cheese and homemade Thousand Island dressing. Yes, I know that most recipes call for a “Russian” dressing, but I first had a Reuben made with Thousand Island dressing and that’s the way I still like it and there you have it.

Gail’s Rye Bread
Before I met my wife, I did not own a bread maker and didn’t have a very high opinion of them either. But you know, after the first time I tasted a loaf that she made in her bread machine, I thought -why on earth am I being so uppity about this? The machine makes a perfectly decent product, easy to slice AND I don’t have to make it.

Place into the mixing case of the bread machine the following three ingredients:
1 cup warm water
2 Tblsps. Molasses
1 ½ Tblsps. Butter

Next, add:
2 cups unbleached white (Bread Machine) flour
1 cup rye flour
1 Tblsp. sugar
½ Tblsp. dry milk
2 tsp. salt
2 Tblsps. Caraway seeds
1 package active dry yeast

Turn on Bread Machine to whole wheat mode and allow to process and bake. Cool thoroughly before slicing.

Thousand Island dressing
Yields about 4 cups

1 ½ cups celery, finely chopped
½ cup sweet or dill pickle relish
1 Tblsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 cup chili sauce
1 tsp. Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
½ tsp. sea salt
2 cups mayonnaise (homemade if you have the time)

1. Combine all ingredients and stir together well. This can be made in a food processor; just do not over process it.

Smoked Corned Beef Brisket

One 2 or 3 lb. piece of brisket

1. Allow brisket to sit overnight in the brine and pickling spices that usually come with it, pickling your own from scratch is easy, but we will get into that another time.
2. To smoke the meat: Light your fire (natural hardwood charcoal is best)- as a matter of fact, the famous French chef Jacques Pepin feels that natural wood charcoal produces a significantly lower amount of tar on the cooked meat than does processed briquettes.
3. Place wood chips (we have had good results from hickory, wild cherry and mesquite) for smoking on top of charcoal and place brisket on top of clean rack. Depending on the type of grill that you are using and the heat that is generated it will take about 45 minutes for each side. We generally cook ours to about an internal temperature of 140 degrees. When done remove the meat from the grill, cover with aluminum foil and allow to sit for at least15 minutes before slicing.

Next, all you need is a 14oz. can of Bavarian Sauerkraut and some slices of a good Swiss cheese. Spread a little dressing onto the sliced bread and pile it up with thin slices of the smoked meat, sliced cheese and a hearty pile of sauerkraut and top it with another slice of bread. Toast the sandwich slightly in a toaster oven or a Panini machine. Serve with a little more dressing on the side and a great dill pickle.

Here’s to an excellent St. Paddy’s Day celebration- make a Reuben, put on CD by the Chieftains, open a Guinness and enjoy!

“May you never forget what is worth remembering or remember what is best forgotten.”

SOUTHWESTERN CUISINE NEW AND OLD

…a serious influence
The American Southwest will always be a serious influence in my cooking and lifestyle.
Not only are there many regionally based cuisines in Mexico itself, but there are also unique variations in the American states bordering Mexico as well.

..."specialties" can run the gamut
This can include specialties from each of the border states- California, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. Those “specialties” can run the gamut from authentic Mexican traditions to highly adapted and popular cooking styles such as Tex-Mex. This does not even touch on the creative “Nueva” cooking from South Florida reflecting both Latin American and Caribbean influences.

…you will notice distinctly different styles
Even if you have wandered across the Border States (like I have) tasting food in the small Mexican restaurants along the way, you will have noticed distinctly different styles in the cooking of say, south Texas and northern New Mexico. There are also many chefs experimenting with combining the new and old in examples of crossover fusion cooking.

…it is quite possible to preserve authentic…classics…while encouraging innovation
Such innovation is not without controversy; although it seems to me that it is quite possible to preserve authentic regional classics while at the same time encouraging innovation and creativity in the kitchen. Such concepts as fusion, New American, New Regional American or even more specifically Comida Nueva are in a sense not new at all. The term “New American Cuisine” can probably mean just about anything. For my purposes here I define it as a combination of favorite regional foods and any number of international cooking techniques.

Antoine’s …can hardly considered modern or trendy
With the celebration of Mardi gras still fresh in my mind, I’m reminded of a very interesting conversation that I once enjoyed over lunch with Bernard R.Guste at his French Quarter restaurant, Antoine’s. Mr. Guste is the fifth-generation proprietor at the landmark New Orleans Creole establishment. Founded in 1840, this classic Creole eatery can hardly be considered modern or trendy. Yet, more that 150 years ago, this restaurant was experimenting with what can be called “New American Cuisine.”

Lacking a suitable snail in southern Louisiana…
As Guste tells the story, his great, great grandfather, remembering the succulent escargot of his native France, wished to serve something similar at his New Orleans restaurant. Lacking a suitable snail in southern Louisiana, he turned to an interesting substitute. In a move that would be considered rank heresy to many of his countrymen, the chef opened fresh oysters, packed the shell with delicious green herb sauce and baked them on a bed of rock salt. Thus was born Oysters Rockefeller, the original recipe still a secret to this day. Mr. Guste’s story has always seemed to me to be the perfect example of how to explain the rationale behind the New American movement.

My own tinkering…has not always been greeted by such enthusiasm.
Now, although generations of Americans have delighted in this chef’s innovation, my own tinkering with tradition has not always been greeted by such enthusiasm. Once upon a time, I suggested a minimal effort to make the lowly taco more appealing and acceptable to a vegetarian. My idea was to replace ground beef with a mixture of brown rice, cracked wheat and tofu flavored with easily recognized Mexican seasoning. It was really almost an afterthought and not one in which I had invested much time or energy. That being admitted, look at the extreme reaction that my recipe received from a food writer in one of the major Texas daily newspapers.

Real Texan (?)…
“We offer the following, not as a recipe we expect any real Texan actually to prepare and eat, but as an example of how New Age food mongrelization debases tradition.”

...self-appointed cultural arbitrators
Well now…….of course, I had to respond in kind! So, I said, “when self-appointed cultural arbitrators retreat into complaints about what a “real” Texan or “real” anyone might do or eat, it leaves me more than a little suspicious of that person’s sense of identity. Scratch the surface of someone crying about being a “real” Texan and often you will find just another self-consciously insecure urban cowboy wannabe!”

Naturally, I will share the recipe with you, let you judge for yourselves and hopefully inspire you to post some comments of your own.

TEXAS TOFU TACOS
Makes about 12 hearty tacos

18 oz. firm tofu
1 cup cooked crack wheat
½ cup cooked brown rice
2 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 ½ tsps. Salt or to taste
½ tsp. crushed red pepper
1 tsp. whole cumin seed, lightly toasted
3 Tblsp. tomato paste
¼ cup Avanti Savoia all-purpose cooking olive oil
12 corn tortillas
½ cup Monterey Jack cheese, grated

1. Crumble tofu into a bowl with cooked cracked wheat and brown rice.
2. Add minced garlic and chopped onion to tofu-grain mixture along with salt, red pepper, cumin seed and tomato paste. Toss lightly.
3. Heat oil in a large skillet and stir in tofu-grain mixture. Cook 3 or 4 minutes or until sizzling and hot.
4. Heat tortillas home style by placing each one directly on a medium burner, either gas or electric, for just enough time to mark each side. Just a few seconds will be enough and a little practice will make you comfortable with the process.
5. Serve taco mix with heated tortillas and grated cheese. Allow guests to fill their own tacos.
6. Serve with guacamole, salsa and fresh sprigs of cilantro.

Texas Independence Day
On March 2, 2009 Texas celebrated 173 years of independence. We are observing the occasion not only with this post exploring culinary tradition and innovation, but also with a Southwestern “fiesta” for our friends, the East Tennessee Chapter of the American Wine Society. The menu will include Antojitos (Appetizers), Platillo fuerte (Main Course) and Postre (Dessert). The photo on this post is of the Main Course, Open Faced Turkey Tamales with Mole Sauce. Check out our next post with the complete menu, recipes, fiesta photos and a selection of wines carefully chosen to match the many flavors.

MARDI GRAS POSTSCRIPT:
Sometimes it’s easy to let simple things slip your mind. Like for instance, just how luscious our Carnaroli rice from Cascina Belvedere really is. Aroma, flavor, beautiful appearance and delicate texture... this plump, white rice from the Piedmont and Lombardy regions almost upstaged the gumbo we served with it for Mardi gras.