Friday, January 30, 2009

Low Country



Part One

One of the prominent influences in American cooking today
One of the prominent influences in American cooking today is actually one of the older food traditions in the US. The term “Lowcountry” refers to the costal plains and Sea Islands of South Carolina and Georgia. The climate, history, location and cultural identity of this area have all combined to create a remarkable example of “fusion” cuisine.

Fusion is a word that we see often
Fusion is a word that we see often describing the amalgamation of different cultural and cooking traditions in restaurants across the country. Today’s chefs do have incredible resources from which to draw their inspirations. However, the phenomenon of fusion cuisine has really been occurring ever since the first immigrants combined their ideas of cooking and eating with the foods they found in the new world.

The Gullah…are a source of pride for all African-Americans
There are similarities between Lowcountry cuisine and other styles of southern cooking, including Louisiana’s Creole and Cajun, but it is the presence of the Gullah culture that gives the area its historical uniqueness. The Gullah, also known as Geeche are descendents of slaves brought from Western and Central Africa. They are recognized for having preserved more of their unique cultural history than any other African-American community and as such, are a source of pride for all African-Americans. Resort development along the coast has posed certain threats but fortunately this unique part of American heritage continues to thrive.

…a living and vibrant approach to cooking and eating.
This includes maintaining their distinctive dialect, craft traditions and a living and vibrant approach to cooking and eating. The Gullah culture is known for their storytelling, music, quilt making and most especially basket making. Using locally harvested sweet grass, palmetto leaves, longleaf pine needles and black rush marsh grass, they produce beautiful coiled baskets, prized by collectors.

...such an impact on contemporary American cooking
It is however, their culinary achievements that are having such an impact on contemporary American cooking. This is not only obvious in the fine dining establishments of Charleston and Savannah but the widespread appearance of such dishes as Shrimp and Grits on menus all across the country. In 1976, grits were actually declared the official state food of South Carolina.

…many foods brought from Africa
There are many foods brought from Africa that are now associated with Southern eating habits and also cooking techniques. Techniques coupled with available foods resulting in many dishes that would be familiar to just about any southerner. Even foods that did not originate from Africa have become part of the Gullah experience thanks to their methods of preparation and cooking.

…the Lowcountry of South Carolina is a hot spot
There is a long list of Gullah influenced food, besides Shrimp and Grits such as She-crab soup, Okra gumbo, Hoppin’ John, Frogmore Stew, boiled peanuts, collard greens and many other examples of one-pot dishes. Today the Lowcountry of South Carolina is a hot spot of traditional Gullah cooking and Gullah inspired crossover innovations. We have even seen sushi rolled in collard leaves instead of nori. Rice is and always has been a dominate element in low-country cuisine. Many African-Americans came from rice growing areas of West Africa and at one time the low-country was covered by thousands of acres of rice producing plantations.

…the old fashioned southern way
As part of Avanti Savoia’s commitment to search out “treasures from around the world” we are very happy to introduce you to the fine products from Low Country Produce, a small South Carolina business that specializes in high-quality relishes, chutneys sauces preserves and pickles made in the old fashioned southern way. We think that you will appreciate these slow cooked, hand packed, all natural products as much as we do.

Are you a fan of homemade pickles?
We highly recommend the intensely flavored Blackberry Preserves and zippy Garlic Pepper Jelly. When we tasted the Sweet Potato Butter we found it not only fantastic, but a perfect interpretation of the Lowcountry tradition. Are you a fan of homemade pickles? We are and we think you will love this line of Sweet Pickles, Sweet Pickles with Jalapeño, Pickled Okra (a special southern treat), Pickled Garlic and Dilly Beans. We complete this rainbow of flavors with Peach Salsa, Tomato Sauces, Chutney, Artichoke Relish and Red Tomato Chow Chow.

…this historic cuisine
In the south, serving Chow Chow relish alongside a pot of beans is a long standing tradition. Low Country Produce’s In House Chef, Maggie Radzwiller recommends adding this Red Tomato Chow Chow to homemade pimento cheese spread or to turkey or ham sandwiches. The chef also recommends the tomato sauces as a base for quick versions of Italian favorites such as Puttanesca and Fra Diavlo sauces. In a particularly creative expression, Chef Radzwiller purees her Colonial Chutney with brandy, Marsala or Madeira wine for a sensational sauce with pork or game. Whether you are a long standing connoisseur of low-country fare or just beginning to appreciate this historic cuisine, we know that you will be charmed by the great offerings from Low Country Produce.

Continued in LOWCOUNTRY Part Two

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

HOLIDAY TRADITIONS


…the iconic images of our culture.
Not surprisingly, a good many of my memories concerning holidays are centered on food. As I have been pondering my own experiences, I have also been thinking about other people’s food memories as well as some of the iconic images of our culture.
My question…
Playing with this theme, I decided that it would be fun to take a quick reading of the experiences of the partners at Avanti Savoia: Doug, Ben and Vito. My question to each was, “What holiday food experiences or family traditions stand out in your mind?”
…the treasure was mostly his to relish alone.
Doug, remembering his childhood in Chicago, answered that it was a marvelous 5 pound fruitcake given to his father each Christmas by a now long defunct neighborhood bakery. Doug was the only member of his family to enjoy fruitcakes and so the treasure was mostly his to relish alone. I’ve always loved them as well, and have often wondered why they are the butt of so many jokes and yet so prevalent around the holidays. Somebody, besides me and Doug, must love them too.
…still prepared by his family much to his delight.
Ben’s reply reflected a much more contemporary take on the subject. He remembers Christmas Eve at his grandparent’s home with his aunts providing food for the celebration. A couple of dishes stand out for him. One was a layered concoction of cream cheese, cocktail sauce and crabmeat served with crackers. The other was bacon wrapped water chestnuts served with a tangy sauce. These favorites are still prepared by his family much to his delight.
…centuries of Piedmont tradition…
Now this whole conversation took an entirely different tone when I questioned the very Italian, Vito de Carolis. Vito’s experiences reflect centuries of Piedmont tradition that we Americans can only imagine. He stressed that Italian traditions are very definitely regional and are different in different parts of his country.
“must haves”
Vito states outright that he “can’t have Christmas Eve” without Cappelleti, literally “little hats”. Similar to tortellini, Vito fills this pasta with a savory mixture of cooked beef, mortadella, cheese, spinach and nutmeg. Scapece ranks high on his list of “must haves”, as well. This version consists of pieces of eel, fried with onion, garlic and sage and then marinated in white wine vinegar.
…the de Carolis family feasts
On Christmas day, at their home in the city of Turin, the de Carolis family feasts on the classic Vitello Tonnato, a carefully prepared cold veal dish with tuna sauce. Chocolate Mousse, a white Moscato wine from the Piedmont and of course, the Christmastime favorite, Panettone, which is available now from Avanti Savoia.
…a venerable collection of cookie cutters
As for me, making sugar cookies with my Dad was a holiday treat. Using an old family recipe and a venerable collection of cookie cutters, my father was an accomplished sugar cookie baker. My grandmother always made wonderful candies like Divinity and fudge, but I do not remember the children helping with these projects. I do remember the adults enjoying a “Lemon Stew” at my parents’ home. It was always served in a beautiful German tureen with matching cups, I have no idea where the name originated, but the beverage was simply hot lemonade spiked with a little bourbon.
The Puritans…even outlawed Plum Pudding
Now, I’m going to move onto the “Spirit of Christmas Past, Present and Future” all at the same time. Like most of us, I grew up with the story and imagery of Charles Dickens’ classic, A Christmas Carol, first published in 1843. The life and work of Dickens has had an enormous influence on Christmas celebrations both in Britain and America. In the early 19th century the celebration of Christmas in England was in decline. The Puritans had been highly critical of such “displays” and even outlawed Plum Pudding as “sinfully rich.” Dickens championed the idea of a joyous celebration of Christmas for all, especially the English working class as personified by Bob Cratchit. I always enjoyed any and all of the versions of A Christmas Carol that happened to be on TV, but I was intrigued and puzzled by the dramatic serving of the “Christmas Plum Pudding” at the end of the Cratchit family’s Christmas feast.
A pudding made from plums?
Certainly nothing in my family’s world even resembled this curiosity. A pudding made from plums? Somewhere in my career I became vaguely familiar with the dish, but I actually never tasted or made one until about 20 years ago. As a matter of fact, plum pudding never contained plums at all. “Plum” was a term that in the 17th century generally referred to raisins and other dried fruits which are included in the dense, rich pudding. Here is where the story gets a little more interesting and personal for me.
…the answer was yes.
One night in early December a couple of decades ago, I was finishing the last of the orders in a little restaurant in Texas. Just before we “broke down the kitchen” for the night, the captain came to me and said, “Chef, there is a very nice gentlemen with a small group of guests that have just come in the door. Could you please still serve them?” The line was still set, the oven on, the butter clarified, and the mise en place reasonably intact and so of course, the answer was yes.
…the “nice gentleman” wished to have a word with the chef.
In came the orders, out went the plates and the cleanup proceeded. In due time the captain returned and reported to me that the diners were very happy and that the “nice gentleman” wished to have a word with the chef. Out I went and introduced myself to the guests. They offered a round of gracious comments and then the “nice gentleman” introduced himself.
…this clearly was a special man with a colorful personality
In an unmistakable British accent and with the most courtly manners he introduced himself to me as Cedric Charles Dickens, the great-grandson of Charles Dickens (yes, that Charles Dickens)! In the restaurant and catering business one does meet all manner of celebrities, but this clearly was a special man with a colorful personality straight out of one of his famous great-grandfather’s novels.
He…promised me his grandfather’s recipe.
Cedric (pronounced said-drick) asked me to join them over a glass of wine, and we talked and we talked. Certainly one of the main topics was “Dickensian” food. He extolled the preparation, serving and enjoying of Christmas Plum pudding and promised me his grandfather’s recipe. Sure enough, a few days later a copy appeared of Cedric Dickens’ book, Dining with Dickens. Described as “a ramble through Dickensian foods”, the book contained not only a most generous and complimentary inscription to me, but also the original recipe for “A Christmas Pudding’ as prepared by Mrs. Cratchit herself!

A CHRISTMAS PUDDING

6 oz. breadcrumbs
6 oz brown sugar
12 oz currants
8 oz. sultanas
4 oz. muscatels
2 ½ oz mixed peel
7 oz. suet
3 oz. Guinness
pinch of salt
pinch of mixed spice
3 medium eggs
1 oz. Pussers Rum

Thoroughly mix all the dry ingredients with the suet taking care not to overmix. Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk to mix the yolk and white together, then pour in the Guinness and rum while whisking. Moisten the dry mix with all the liquor and leave until next day before placing in a cloth and steaming for 5 hours.

All that I will add is to say that I steam mine in a covered glass or ceramic bowl. I also enjoy allowing the pudding to age for at least 2 or 3 months, drizzled occasionally with a little brandy. To serve, I steam it again for at least another hour. Next, it is unmolded, placed on a tray and flambéed with brandy and has a sprig of holly stuck in the top. Although not mentioned in the original, I always have served my puddings with Hard Sauce.

HARD SAUCE

1 cup unsalted butter, softened
3 cups powdered sugar
½ cup brandy
½ tsp. vanilla extract

Cream the butter with powdered sugar until fluffy. Add brandy and vanilla extract and mix until smooth. Offer a generous serving with Christmas Puddings or other desserts.

“Ever the best of friends”
CEDRIC CHARLES DICKENS
1916-2006

Monday, November 24, 2008

CREATING COMMUNITY

FISH Hospitality Pantries, where sharing food is just the beginning

“not all pantries are stocked as well as ours”

From our beginning, Avanti Savoia has always been fanatically dedicated to the highest quality products. We take our motto, “Culinary Treasures from around the World” very seriously. We are passionate and enthusiastic about bringing our treasures to your pantry, but we are also realistic and aware that not all pantries are stocked as well as ours.

“this is in our backyard!”

The headquarters of Avanti Savoia is located in Knox County, Tennessee, where it is estimated that some 47,000 people live in poverty. Children make up 40% of this group. This is not some remote and exotic part of the globe, this is in our backyard! We are fortunate however to have an extraordinary local organization addressing this problem.

“These are very real people”

As part of the FISH network of food pantries, Hospitality Pantries, Inc. is a non-profit, all-volunteer organization working to end hunger by providing over 12,000 food packages each month in our county alone. This is more than all other local food pantries combined. These are very real people, not just numbers. To prevent hunger and assure adequate nutrition is certainly the organization’s primary purpose, yet there are other goals as well.

“All who come for food are welcomed as guests.”

Hospitality Pantries are about relationship and people working together toward a more compassionate and just community for all people. The pantry strives to be “a hospitable, non-judgmental presence in the community that respects human dignity and privacy. All who come for food are welcomed as guests.”

“One thing is certain…you will be assured of getting some food. No one will ever be turned away.”

Not all food pantries are created equal nor do they have the same approaches to their missions. I was certainly aware that food pantries existed and had even worked at restaurants that participated in such programs. Even so, I knew very little about the day to day reality of a working food pantry. There are a number of pantries that offer only occasional assistance and many that are quite strict in their guidelines for qualifying for assistance. “One thing is certain. If you are in need of food, and you can get to one of our pantries on any given day, you will be assured of getting some food. No one will ever be turned away,” writes Beth Carroll Hunley, Hospitality Pantries Community Organizer.

“It was not long before I contacted the director”

About a dozen years ago I did a little looking around at the state of local food pantries in order to assist a “down on his luck” acquaintance. As I arranged for my friend to pick up some needed food, I spoke at length with a volunteer at the Hospitality Pantry. I was intrigued by their attitude and underlying philosophy that seemed to be in such contrast to other programs. It was not long before I contacted the founder and Director, Jim Wright and committed myself as a new (and naïve) volunteer. From the beginning of the program in the 1980’s, Jim Wright knew that feeding the hungry should be accomplished without limitations and in a non-judgmental way. He believed that people were nourished as much in the way they were treated as by the food itself. He asked volunteers to suspend judgment. To quote Mr. Wright, “Givers and receivers are united, for in helping to free others we are ourselves freed by the same spirit”. It was in the context of a new volunteer, that I began to appreciate the concept of non-judgmental welcoming that is so central to this organization’s work. Through my work with other volunteers, I began to confront my own pre-conceived attitudes and subtle prejudices. I’ve always considered myself to be relatively open minded and compassionate person; but my experience was really one of shock as I began to recognize my own personal elitism.

“distinction between the “helpers” and those that need “help” is constantly blurred”
As important as is the need for food, the pantry is also committed to be a place in the community where people from diverse backgrounds, races, heritages and economic circumstances, can come together to create true community. On a typical day the pantry is a beehive of activity and energy. It is not unusual to hear bits of Spanish, Russian, German and even Romanian spoken by the busy volunteers. People from varied circumstances are transformed by being in relationship with one another. This experience has allowed diverse members of the community to grow, learn, and enjoy one another. The distinction between the “helpers” and those that need “help” is constantly blurred as these relationships develop and artificial boundaries disappear.

“Avanti Savoia is very happy to contribute”

Donated food is only a part of the pantry’s program, because a great deal of their food must be purchased. That of course means cash and that cash comes from individuals, business interests, churches, certain foundations and the all important Gift Card Project. Avanti Savoia is very happy to contribute various food products to the Hospitality Pantries throughout the year as well as participate in their main fundraiser, the Gift Card Project. Last year over $63,000 was raised from the gift card project. For just $5, or any multiple of $5, you can spread goodwill and feed hungry families at the same time. With this gift, a family of four can be fed for three days with just a $5 gift. Please consider this meaningful gift in your holiday gift buying frenzy. We have included in this post a sample of this year’s card. For more on this vital project and other information, please visit their website at http://www.fishhospitalitypantries.org/.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

A GOULISH FEAST


“Even a man who is pure in heart
and says his prayers by night,
may become a wolf when the wolfbane blooms
and the autumn moon is bright!”

“THE WOLF MAN”
Universal Pictures, 1941


Halloween 2008

“Part of our collective consciousness”
Estimates vary, but Americans celebrating this holiday add up to big business and it seems each year to be increasingly more popular. The way we celebrate Halloween has evolved over the years as well. It is not even a very old a tradition in the US, although it may seem like it has always been part of our collective consciousness.

“It’s just a good party”
Much of the impetus came with Irish immigrants in the mid-nineteenth century. Along with many other customs, they brought their celebration of All Hallows Eve, which in turn was an evolution of the Celtic Festival of the Dying Year also known as Samhain (pronounced sow-in). Not that modern Trick or Treaters care that much about the history because for most of us, it’s just a good party.

“We love to be scared”
We love to be scared or at least to pretend to be. Bram Stoker published his masterpiece Dracula, in 1897, and it has never been out of print. It was the classic Gothic horror films from Universal Pictures that instilled the images that many of us still associate with Halloween, or at least those of us of a certain age.

“Approach the feast with the proper dread”
Halloween candy sales are second only to Christmas and although trick or treating for candy remains a privilege for the young, there is no reason we all can’t enjoy a dinner party with a spooky theme. Surely, no one has excelled more than Martha Stewart at making Halloween into a modern celebration, a fact that a quick trip to her website will confirm. However, there are so many possible inspirations, planning a grown-up Halloween party is an activity that anyone can enjoy. Decorating is a blast and creepy music is a must. Here is an Avanti Savoia take on the theme. Go to the trouble of writing out your menu in a creative way so that your guests can approach the feast with the proper dread!

EYEBALL HIGHBALLS
(Vodka Martinis garnished with half a stuffed olive
frozen in circular shaped ice tray “cubes”)
TOADSKINS AND POND SLIME
(Indian crisp bread with cilantro/mint sauce)
WITCHES FINGERS AND CRYPT OOZE
(Finger shaped pretzels with blue cheese dip)
BEACH SPIDER SOUP
(Crab bisque)
DEVILED BAT
(Grilled Cornish game hens or quail with backbones removed)
STUFFED TOADSTOOLS WITH A MOST UNPLEASANT SAUCE
(Baked mushrooms with an orange Hollandaise sauce)
JACK O’LANTERN PIE
(Pumpkin pie topped with a cut out pastry face- see following recipe)




Preparing a Fresh Pumpkin
Canned pumpkin can be successfully used to make this pie. However, during the holidays when pumpkins are easily obtainable, it is a snap to prepare puree from a fresh pumpkin using the method described here. Select a fresh, firm pumpkin free from blemishes. One small pumpkin will do nicely for two or three recipes. Wash pumpkin with warm water and dry thoroughly. Lightly oil pumpkin and place it on a baking tray. Bake in 350 degree oven for one hour. Pumpkin is ready when it is soft to the touch. Remove tray from oven and allow to cool. When cooling, the pumpkin will begin to collapse. When it’s cool enough to handle carefully remove the stem and peel away the browned skin, which should come off quite easily. Split open the pumpkin and scoop out seeds and stringy fibers. Seeds may be saved for roasting. Cut the remaining flesh into chunks and finely puree in food processor. Can be prepared 2 or 3 days in advance.

Pie Crust Pastry
Pastry for one 9 inch pie

2 cups sifted all purpose flour
¼ cup butter
¼ cup shortening
4-5 Tblsp. ice water
1 egg, beaten

1. Measure sifted flour and combine with butter in food processor fitted with steel blade. Blend for a short time until mixture resembles cornmeal.
2. Add shortening and blend again until mixture looks like small peas.
3. With the food processor running, add ice water a tablespoon at a time until the dough forms a ball. Remove dough from food processor, wrap in plastic wrap and let dough rest in the refrigerator at least for an hour, although it can be prepared to this point and kept for several days ahead.
4. When ready to bake pie, roll out about 2/3 of the prepared dough with rolling pin and fit into 9 inch pie pan. Crimp edges, brush lightly with beaten egg and allow pastry to rest in refrigerator for 15 or 20 minutes before baking. Save enough dough to roll out and cut triangles for eyes and nose, also cut out a wide smile, all of which is placed on top of the pie before baking to make the “Jack O’lantern” face.


Ingredients for Pumpkin Filling
1 ½ cups fresh pumpkin puree or one 14&1/2 oz. canned pumpkin
1 Tblsp. flour
1/3 cup sugar
2 tsps. Ground Ginger #32065*
½ tsp. freshly grated Nutmeg #32080*
½ tsp. ground Allspice #32071*
2 tsps. Ground Cinnamon #32031
½ tsp Sel de Mer ( fine ) #35021*
1 1/3 cup half and half
2 eggs and 1 egg yolk, slightly beaten

Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees

1. Combine all ingredients except eggs and refrigerate for a couple of hours. When ready to bake the pie, fold eggs into filling and pour into the pastry lined pie pan. Top with pastry face, gently place on metal cookie tray and bake in lower third of oven.

2. Bake pie for 15 minutes at 425 degrees, reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking for another 35 to 40 minutes until done. Serve hot or room temperature with sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

THE GARDEN THING

"A bumper crop of weeds"

MAY ‘08

My wife, Gail and I planted our first garden together in the summer of 1996. We were very excited about it and spent a great deal of time (for the next eleven years) building our soil, tending, harvesting and enjoying. Some years we managed three different seasonal plantings and Gail canned with a passion. Last spring we both faced some health issues and in truth, we were also just really tired of the hard work and daily responsibility. So, for over a year we allowed the garden to “lay fallow” and produce a bumper crop of weeds.

"A reason to escape going to the gym"

However, a good break seems to have been very beneficial, at least for us and maybe for our garden. We have in years past, cultivated thirty two-12 foot rows. Work that was mostly accomplished using hand tools and a lot of effort. I saw the hard labor as a reason to escape going to the gym and there was a real satisfaction from the work and the edible results. This year we have decided that we would invest in some better machinery including a fine new tiller. There is still plenty of exercise involved and it is certainly more practical. We have also cut down on the amount of tilling required by cultivating only the rows in which we plant.

"Certain patterns have emerged"

I have been interested to note the upsurge of interest in gardens this year partly due to the downturn in the economy. I suppose that perhaps money can be saved on groceries by growing your own, but it is not a freebie- not by a long shot. Over our previous years of experience certain patterns have emerged. A half acre of corn proved to be a 3 year exercise in frustration due to the damage from storms, droughts and marauding raccoons. At the rate at which two people can enjoy fresh corn, it is easier and more economical to just purchase it from some local farmers. Any financial savings by way of a garden will be welcome of course, but for us it is really about the fantastic flavor, quality and purity.

We are planting the crops that we have had the best experience with in the past in terms of maintenance and productivity. This year that means tomatoes, peppers, beans, okra, lettuce, onions, greens, cucumbers, eggplants, herbs and flowers.

"That vision of the bounty of beautiful produce"
JUNE ‘08

Gardens always start out as an exercise in some kind of faith. Faith that those seeds will sprout, the seedlings will grow, the bugs and diseases will give you a break and that there will be enough sunlight and rain. How else could anyone put so much work and effort into a project if there wasn’t a great deal of faith that it will succeed? Then there is that vision of the bounty of beautiful produce. Now, after a month or so this particular year’s challenges began to be apparent, as I guess they are every year.

First, we seem to have a problem with our seed crops sprouting, especially the flowers and some of the herbs. Even old reliables like sunflowers are coming up with big gaps or simply not coming up at all. The pepper sets are small and growing very slowly. Everything else seems slow and a little stunted… Hmmm… to replant or not…Hmm.The lettuces and onions are delicious.

We have plenty of fresh basil, 24 feet of in fact. We call it Vito’s Basil Patch in honor of our Italian Partner at Avanti Savoia, Vito De Carolis. There are tomatoes, cukes and okra coming along and there is still hope. I don’t think one can garden without hope.

"RAIN "

It is dry and even though I have been watering, it really is not the same as rain. I am beginning to worry about our crop of wild raspberries. There are plenty of buds but some of the leaves are withering and that means that they are thirsty! We usually harvest around the 4th of July, but for that to happen…well, you know-RAIN. We depend on well water at Cabbage Creek (that’s what we named our little mini-farm) for drinking and living as well as watering the garden. Our well has never run out but I monitor the springs and creek all year just to get a clue about the water table level and it’s not looking good. If we reach a certain point I will be very reluctant to use any more well water than necessary.

Our next issue is sunlight- in the year and a half since we have had a garden, I’m wondering if the surrounding trees have grown just enough to make shade a problem. Removing a bunch of big branches might do it, but that will require some outside assistance.

JULY ‘08

I’ve been monitoring the amount of sunlight in the garden very carefully and I’m now convinced that there is just not quite enough. We are harvesting beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, lettuce, onions, cilantro and basil. But the amount of the harvest is not what it should be by this time of the season. I’m beginning to doubt whether or not there will be any peppers at all.

"Berry pickin’ party"

The rains have come however, and just in time. Not enough to really erase our rainfall deficit, but enough to help out the garden and bring on a decent harvest of raspberries. We look for them to be ripe the first part of July each year and sure enough, they were right on time. We had a “berry pickin’ party” a couple of days after the 4th of July with some friends and family. Baskets full of ripe raspberries are a beautiful sight. Although, I found myself down with a back ache, we did manage a good harvest and a good time. As is our tradition, we enjoyed fresh raspberry Margaritas with our guests.

As the month has slipped by, my priority in the garden has been weeding and mulching.
The weeds not only steal moisture and nourishment, they also block precious sunlight from the less tall plants. The mulching is indispensable in preventing more weed growth and the conservation of moisture along the plant rows.

Finally, the pepper plants are blooming and putting on more foliage, we will probably get a few anyway, but I doubt that they will be prolific. Some seasons we have been almost overwhelmed with the abundance of peppers. Like the old cliché, “feast or famine” this is going to be a thin year for peppers.

AUGUST ‘08
"All the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) "

Summer is half over and the hottest and most humid time of the year is here. In the northern hemisphere this time has been known as “the dog days of summer”, since the time of the Egyptians. As miserable a time as it can be, it is also the heart of the harvest time in our garden as well as the time for fall planting. We already have a row of mixed greens from which we have just now started harvesting, but within the last few days we will have planted radishes, turnips, spinach and a row of lettuce. Each year we usually plant a progression of lettuces over the season, so when one row plays out we have a new one ready to supply us with fresh salads. This is the time that all the hard work pays off (or sometimes not) and that we get to enjoy real garden bounty! We have also been fortunate in as much as the rains have come just in time the last few weeks.

"Okra"

My wife Gail has been busy caning. Beans, pickles and a particularly southern specialty, pickled okra. Okra was brought to America from Africa (some say Ethiopia, actually) and cultivation quickly spread all over the south. Besides being pickled, fresh okra is also enjoyed fried, steamed, braised, boiled and perhaps it is best known as an ingredient in some gumbos. Okra is a food that most people either love or hate. Okra does produce a viscous substance when cooked that is useful as a thickener, although some folks find it “slimy” and reject it on that basis alone. If you have access to the pods when they are very small (about 3 inches) they are delicious and less slimy when lightly steamed and served with Hollandaise sauce.

In just the last few days it is clear that the beans and cukes are on their last leg as expected this time of year. It makes the last of them even “sweeter”, knowing that their time is about over. But as one vegetable fades and takes its final bow, another fills its place. In this case our first good “mess” of mixed greens has arrived and they are excellent.

"Amaranth"

Also, even though I have not yet mentioned it, we have been harvesting and eating Amaranth greens all summer. Amaranth was once considered a weed and in practical terms, in our garden it still is- albeit a delicious and very nutritious one. We first planted it 6 or 7 years ago as a novelty and then discovered just how adapt it is in returning each year. It grows, well like a weed. But instead of just removing it from where it pops up, we eat it. Very similar in flavor and texture to spinach and interchangeable in any recipe calling for spinach, which is a good thing considering that we will probably never be able to get rid of it.

SEPTEMBER ‘08
"The garden is not going to be overgrown this year"

We are thankful that our well water has remained dependable, because we had only one significant rain during the whole month of August. As I have already noted, the 2008 season has not been our most prolific garden but still satisfying enough. Our fall crops are developing nicely, better actually than our spring plantings and the promise of fall is right around the corner. I’m already beginning to think about turning under spent rows and building the soil over the winter. No matter what we decide to plant next spring, the garden is not going to be overgrown this year.


"Like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house"

Now, it is the last few days of summer and although hardly the end of the garden, everything has changed. The formerly lush cucumber vines are pale and very dead. They flutter in the breeze like tattered curtains in an old abandoned house. In the next day or two I will pull them up and discard them. The okra has stopped producing entirely, but to my surprise the Half White Runner beans have still been making, as are the tomatoes. At long last, the peppers are finally doing great. The basil will fade soon, even though we have kept it well tended and enjoyed it often. We will probably freeze some, but it just isn’t the same as fresh.

"Moon flowers "

We are still enjoying several varieties of cutting flowers and a particular pleasure for us has been the moon flowers (Ipomoea alba). If you don’t know this beautiful ornamental, you should. In our region it is grown as an annual and blooms in the evening, so as to be pollinated by the moth population. Huge white blossoms on trailing vines makes for an impressive showing, but they have no food use and are in fact, poisonous.

"THE AUTUMN TRANSITION "

With the summer season ended, we now begin to weigh the benefits of our garden versus the drawbacks. First, the costs- as I have noted, gardening is not a free lunch, but it is a big lunch! Even if our produce was not in huge amounts, there was still plenty to eat and enough for limited canning. I’m not really sure that my wife would have found time for a monster canning season anyway.

"Committed to growing our garden organically"

Then there is the quality, which is excellent, but as with anything organic not perfectly symmetrical or without blemishes. We are committed to growing our garden organically. To us, that means growing without chemical pesticides or fertilizers. Going “green” in this sense also means less polluted soil, groundwater, rivers, streams, and creeks. In years past I have noted with alarm the increasing “bloom” of algae in our own Cabbage Creek from the wash off of chemical fertilizers from other farms further upstream. It also means less dependence on commercial produce that has to be trucked in resulting in the use of more fossil fuels.

Another very important piece of this picture is composting! We save most kitchen scraps (except flesh and bones) for the compost pile. We actually have two 10’ X 10’ pits in which we dump our scraps along with other yard waste. We harvest the composted matter from each pit alternatively and work it into our soil. This method not only provides an excellent alternative to commercial fertilizers but makes our garbage much less offensive.
Sitting in a shaded spot…sipping a little wine
Perhaps less tangible, but still very valuable to us is the simple pleasure we receive from just working the soil, tending our crops and just spending time together outside in such a beautiful setting. Some of my best memories of our gardening experience involve sitting in a shaded spot at the end of a day sipping a little wine and talking quietly with my wife Gail.

"Garden journaling"

Will we do it again next year? Absolutely! Although this post is (finally) ending here, I have been so inspired by the garden journaling experience that I plan to continue writing about it each month. I’m looking forward to sharing that collection of thoughts with you again in the early spring of 2009.

The salads of “Cabbage Creek” have long been a favorite of ours and our guests. Access to the wonderful extra virgin olive oils, balsamic and wine vinegars and other seasonings from Avanti Savoia only enhances the prospects. A salad bowl with fresh baby lettuces is always welcome with any number of variations based on this simple vinaigrette dressing.

Basic American Vinaigrette
Yields about 1 cup
Ingredients: (* available at Avanti Savoia.com)
½ cup *Red (#25001) or *White (#25002) Wine Vinegar by Claudio Rosso
2 tsp. Sel Gris Velvet sea salt* #35049
1 Tblsp. freshly ground black peppercorn* #32000
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced and mashed
½ tsp. sweet paprika* #32100
1 Tblsp. Dijon mustard
4 to 6 Tblsps. Avanti Savoia extra virgin olive oil* #10090

In a small bowl, combine salt and vinegar and beat well.
Add pepper, garlic, paprika, and Dijon. Mix well.
Next, beat in oil until smooth and toss with salad.
Do note that this is an American version, not classic Italian Vinaigrette. If you should wish to be a little more authentically Italian, try Don Vito’s Classic Italian Vinaigrette recipe from our August 12, 2008 post entitled “A Conversation Between Cooks.” The vinaigrette should not be made until just before using and the salad should not be dressed until ready to serve.

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

AN AVANTI SAVOIA BIRTHDAY PARTY


Cool Food for a Hot Celebration



It is a nice thing to enjoy the company of your co-workers. Ben Slocum, the young president of Avanti Savoia is one of those enjoyable people. I consider Ben to be a computer wizard, although I’m sure that he would quickly disagree. In the almost two years that I have been Avanti’s Chef Consultant, I have spent many hours working with Ben and have grown to like and respect him very much.
Computer illiterate meets cyberspace guru
Ben has become my cyberspace guru. I think it is fair to say that at the onset of my employment, I was a computer illiterate. It has been through Ben’s patient and expert instruction that I have (at least to a limited degree) joined communications in the 21st century.

This is a great time for Ben. He graduated from Tusculum College in 2004 with a degree in Business Administration and a MBA from the University of Tennessee in ’06 and now, he is the president of Avanti Savoia Imports. He is also a big sports fan, having played soccer in both high school and college. Somehow, he still finds time to be a volunteer soccer coach at the local high school.


The perfect excuse to celebrate

Other exciting news in Ben’s life is the recent purchase of a new home and his upcoming marriage to his dynamite fiancée, Erin. Ben’s recent 27th birthday was the perfect excuse (as though we needed one) to celebrate with my employer and friend. It was on a recent hot summer’s evening during a dramatic cloudburst that we gathered for the occasion.

The weather was much too hot for elaborate cooking at the party, so we decided on a cold three course menu that was mostly prepared ahead. The menu relied on our garden and a number of our good Avanti Savoia products and hopefully might suggest some party ideas of your own. Doug and Kathy Slocum (Ben’s parents) graciously hosted the party and provided some great vinos.

The Wines
Walter Hansel Winery Russian River Chardonnay ‘05
Siduri Russian River Pinot Noir ‘03
Tasmania Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon ‘01

The Menu
(*available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)

Starters
Endive leaves stuffed with Pimiento*(Spanish Sweet Peppers #34500) Cheddar Cheese
Choux Paste puffs filled with White Tuna Salad*(Albo White Tuna Fillets#70010)
Fried Pappadums (Indian crisp bread) with Podina (cilantro/mint) sauce

Main Courses
Fresh Garden Salad (hand picked from our garden the morning of the Party)
Served with Chunky Tomato Balsamic*(Giusti Gold Medal #20007) Vinaigrette
(For this Vinaigrette recipe, see our July 25 ’08 post, “In Love with the Love Apple”)
Pasta Salad *(Tortiglione #60030) with Shrimp and Toasted Pecan Pesto
Layered Fruit Bowl of Watermelon, Blueberries and Oranges with
Gail’s Poppy Seed Dressing

Dessert
Double Mocha Chocolate Pound Cake (recipe to follow) with
Chocolate Buttercream *( #50015 Castagna Extra Fonente) and Wild Raspberry Coulis
Served with Bonny Doon Vineyard Framboise (Raspberry Dessert Wine)


DOUBLE MOCHA CHOCOLATE POUND CAKE with CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Baking Time: 60 to 70 minutes
Makes one 9” by 5” Loaf Cake
Ingredients: (*Available at Avanti Savoia, http://www.avantisavoia.com/)
Pre-heat oven to 325 degrees and grease and flour loaf pan.

2 oz. dark chocolate, *(Castagna Extra Fonente, #50015) coarsely chopped
2 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 cup very strong hot coffee
½ cup (one stick) butter, unsalted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 ¾ cup dark brown sugar
2 eggs, room temp.
2 cups all purpose flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking soda
Pinch of salt
½ cup sour cream
Recipe:
Combine chocolate and instant coffee in a small bowl and add hot coffee. Set aside and allow to cool.
Cream butter, vanilla extract and sugar. Beat very well.
Add eggs and again beat very well.
Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. At low speed in mixer, add dry ingredients and mix until just smooth- do not over mix.
Add sour cream and again mix slightly.
Add cooled chocolate until the batter is just mixed. Pour into prepared pan and bake 60 to 70 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Allow cake to cool in pan for about 10 to 15 minutes and remove from pan. Ice with Chocolate Buttercream when completely cool.

CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM ICING
Ingredients:
7 oz. or two bars of dark chocolate,*(Castagna Extra Fondente #50015) coarsely chopped
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ cups confectioner’s sugar, sifted
2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temp.
¼ cup cocoa powder *(Red Venezuelan Cocoa Powder #50120)
1 tsp. instant coffee powder
1 Tblsp.Bourbon
Pinch of salt
Recipe:
Melt the chocolate in a small bowl place over a pan of hot water.
Cream butter and sugar, adding sugar a little at a time. Add vanilla and beat at high speed for 3 or 4 minutes until mixture becomes very pale. Scrape down sides of bowl as necessary.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating very well after addition, then add cocoa.
Blend together instant coffee, Bourbon and salt. Beat one more time until blended.
Place Buttercream in refrigerator for a few minutes to firm it up. Ice cooled cake and place cake in refrigerator until about 30 minutes before serving.

RASPBERRY COULIS
Did you know? Coulis is a cooking term for a puree or sauce. It can be either sweet or savory, such as this sweet dessert Coulis or savory as in a tomato Coulis. There is plenty of room here for improvisation and making your own calls. For instance the amount of sugar in this recipe depends on the tartness of the particular raspberries used. Any number of flavor enhancers can also be used, such as a squeeze of lemon, lime or orange, a splash of complimentary liquor or even a pinch of salt. The important thing is not cover up the natural taste of the raspberries. So, in this recipe we will give you a very basic outline with which you can come with your own version of a delicious dessert sauce. Please note that other fruits can be substituted for raspberries.

Ingredients:
2 to 3 pints raspberries (fresh or frozen)
1 ½ cup sugar
¼ cup Chambord or other raspberry liqueur
Recipe:
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
Strain through a fine mesh sieve and taste for a balance of flavor- adjust according to your own judgment. Also, make a call concerning the consistency of the Coulis, if it is not quite thick enough, the strained sauce can be reduced a bit more.
Chill Coulis in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When ready to serve pour a small pool on your serving plate and lay a slice of the pound cake in the middle. If you really want to gild the Lily, add a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream.

Happy Birthday buddy!


NEW: Visit VitosCiao.com, an exciting new interactive forum in which Avanti Savoia’s legendary Italian partner shares his astounding knowledge of gourmet cooking and eating. Buon Appetito!

Friday, September 26, 2008

A CHEF’S MEA CULPA

Eat Only the Plants That Are Proven Safe and Accurately Identified


An interesting situation has been reported in the news media, one that has caught my attention and given me real pause for thought. A British chef, Anthony Worrall Thompson has made a significant error in his recommendation of a wild plant to be used in summertime meals. His mistake has had me thinking about two very important observations: One, the common verses scientific names for various plants and Two, the source for food information that chefs pass on to their co-workers and students and ultimately in their food.

The chef misspoke

The story is that this chef in a magazine article stated that “Henbane” would make a nice addition to summertime meals. The problem is that Thompson meant to refer to the plant commonly known as “Fat Hen”. Definitely, he misspoke. “Henbane” (Hyoscyamus niger) is toxic and according to Wikapedia, “can cause hallucinations, convulsions, vomiting and in extreme cases death”.Henbane

In an article in Healthy and Organic Living magazine it is stated, “Henbane is a very toxic plant and should never be eaten. As always, check with an expert when foraging or collecting wild plants”.


One of the problems in using only common names

What Chef Thompson meant to recommend was a plant known as “Fat Hen” (Chenopodium album) which is edible. This brings me to one of the problems in using only common names and not also referencing the scientific and therefore universal name.
For instance, neither of the names “Henbane” nor “Fat Hen” meant a thing to me. But, after a little researching, I realized that I’m totally unfamiliar with “Henbane”. “Fat Hen” however, is another name for “Lamb’s Quarter” (Chenopodium album), a plant that I’ve gathered and eaten for decades.Fat Hen

So, point taken- I will reference by the Latin terms for the plant family and species as I usually do. There are so many common names in so many languages that it is not only confusing to only use them, but potentially very harmful. That is my first observation, the second, (other that a real compassion for the embarrassment that the chef must have felt) is a long hard look at my own culinary use of wild plants.

You may already know of my fondness for wild mushrooms from a previous post entitled “Mushroom Paradise” in which I was careful to properly identify my mushrooms and recommend extreme caution in their harvest.


Fortune was on my side

However, I have been given real pause to think about many other plants that I have used over the years. In particular, the wild Sweet Pea or Lathyrus ochroleucus, which although I have not eaten or tried to cook, I HAVE used the pretty little blossom as a garnish with all sorts of dishes. Never again of course, but fortune was on my side as apparently my mistake has never made anyone sick.

“Chefly” arrogance

I do remember once when catering a private party in San Francisco in the early eighties, I used the blossoms to garnish a lovely cold strawberry soup. I was even confronted by one of the guests about the safety of the flower and my source for knowing that it was safe. In my “chefly” arrogance I answered that of course it was safe and that I had used it for years. I have used it for years and but the truth is I don’t remember how or who first inspired me to use it. My bad, and although not quite the faux pas of Chef Thompson, I was very wrong and have learned a most valuable lesson.

I do love foraging around for edible wild things and was a big fan years ago of the most famous proponent of wild food, Euell Gibbons. I carried around a copy of his book “Stalking the Wild Asparagus” until it was worn out. I still love wild asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) and still gather it every spring.

It is a safe bet that in the future if I mention wild foods in this blog or elsewhere it will have proper reference and identification! Eat well and safely!