Stocking the Pantry Part 2

If you missed Part 1 you can read it here

The only mineral that we eat as a food
Salt is the only mineral that we eat as a food and is an essential nutrient and universal ingredient. At one time all salt was produced by traditional artisan methods that included solar evaporation, boiling brine or mining from deposits. Salt was a rare and valuable treasure that was even used as currency. Avanti Savoia offers an assortment of more than 20 various natural salts from around the world which we usually just refer to as gourmet finishing salts.  Different styles, grinds, colors, flavors and nuances have been a delight for the Avanti chefs to experiment with in our cooking school, La Cucina. One of our more exciting adventures with salt is our Natural Salt Block Cooking Tiles, which are cut from deposits in the Himalayan Mountains. They can be used for cooking as well for serving. Just be sure to CAREFULLY READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Flavors and nuances
Cooking with wines, spirits, liqueurs and cordials can lend flavors and nuances to many dishes although they have other useful properties, as well. Wines and spirits are used for de-glazing pans, making quick pan sauces and they often add a very important acid component to balance dishes. Marinating with alcohol adds flavor, aroma and assists in tenderizing. Good examples of wines to have on hand are white vermouth, dry red and white table wines, Sherries and Marsala. The flavor required in a particular dish will dictate the choice of liqueurs; such as coffee liqueur for Tiramisu or Grand Marnier for crepes. Don't forget the place of Mirin and rice cooking wine in Asian cuisine.
Cold pressed oils and cooking fats
A selection of several cold pressed oils and cooking fats are also essential. At the top of the inventory is authentic Italian extra virgin olive oil and nowhere is there a better selection that on avantisavoia.com.  Next favorite in our kitchen is unsalted butter, whole or clarified. We do save bacon grease and use it judiciously. For deep frying peanut or canola oil and for specific flavoring nut oils such as walnut, almond and hazelnut are wonderful. Upon occasion we use safflower oil and in baking - vegetable shortening and for good old Southern Biscuits… lard. If you are lucky enough to come by duck or goose fat your credentials as a gourmet cook will be assured.

Riccardo Giusti Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Condiments and vinegars
Many, many dishes require the addition of liquid condiments and vinegars. These items include Worcester sauce, soy sauce, bitters and favorite hot sauces which vary according to style of cuisine and personal taste such as Sambal, Siracha, Valentina, Tabasco, Louisiana or Texas Pete. Fine Balsamic vinegars from Avanti Savoia are a must, of course. Red and white wine vinegars, rice vinegar, black vinegar, herb and fruit vinegars can add a lot of flavor and style. A collection of sweeteners is certainly required. Our go-tos are granulated and powdered white cane sugar, brown sugar, raw sugar, honey, maple syrup, molasses, and corn syrup and Agave syrup.
Important elements… we couldn't do without
Leavenings, thickeners and baked goods are important elements in any cook's kitchen. We couldn't do without baking yeast, baking soda, baking powder, cream of tartar, arrowroot, cornstarch, xanthan gum, and unflavored gelatin. Using the a fore mention products will enable bakers to create any number of homemade baked goods, however at a minimum a kitchen should also have available nice whole grain breads and specialty crackers. Corn and flour tortillas are necessary for those of us that love Southwestern and Mexican cuisine.
Dry pantry stock
We can't do any baking without our dry pantry stock. Again, for serious bakers there is usually a long list of ingredients but, for the simple home cook the following flours should prove to be sufficient; all purpose flour, self rising flour, whole wheat flour, unbleached white flour and cake flour and bran or wheat germ. Powdered milk and powdered buttermilk are useful in a number of recipes. Gotta have cocoa powder and dark chocolate, period! Several corn products are useful including stone ground cornmeal and grits as well as masa for making tortillas and thickening chili. Depending on personal diet preferences, whole grains and cereals, a variety of rices, beans and legumes can be stocked.
Canned goods and specialty products

One of many specialty pastas

I honestly do not keep a huge collection of canned goods and specialty products, usually opting to purchase the items as they are needed. Tomato products in glass are our choice and Avanti Savoia has three different brands with a variety of styles.  Some of the canned goods needed in recipes could include green chilies, pimientos, beans, artichokes, hearts of palm, packaged broths, Asian specialties (water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, and baby corn), canned tuna, salmon and anchovies and home canned anything. Authentic Italian pastas from Avanti Savoia will come in handy and most kitchens have peanut butter and perhaps some variations such as sun nut butter or almond butter.
The most subjective list of them all
Now, we come to refrigerator items and freezer foods and this probably is the most subjective list of them all. If you eat dairy products, then your refrigerator could have milk, cream, half and half, yogurt, sour cream, cheeses and eggs (although not dairy, of course). Purchase the best and most organic products that can be found. What else may be found in your ‘fridge (besides forgotten science experiments) depends entirely on your taste and cooking needs. Fresh produce, favorite condiments, olives, peppers, pickles, relishes, jellies and jams – experience will tell you what you will have a use for on a regular basis. The freezer is another area that reflects a household’s personality. I do try to catch specials on top quality seafood, poultry and meats, so as to have a few possible main courses always on hand. Because I make our own stocks, I keep a few of these reduced to a concentrated state for easier storage. It is worth noting that some of the world’s finest cuisines are based on the use of stocks and broths.
It depends
So, now at the end of this pantry ramble, I still can only offer the same comment that we started with – “it depends”. The best advice is to carefully consider your needs and budget and collect only the best quality ingredients as well as the freshest. Avanti Savoia can help!

Stocking the Pantry Part 1

We are not talking about the quick and harried trip to the grocery store
An often asked question in our cooking classes concern the proper stocking of home pantries and the usual answer is "it depends". We love to approach food shopping as a continuing education; something exciting rather than just a necessary chore. This means of course, that you must give yourself time to enjoy it. We are not talking here about the quick and harried trip to the grocery store sandwiched (no pun intended) between getting off work, stopping by the gym and rushing home to get something on the dinner table.
Chat with your suppliers
Having a little extra time to chat with your suppliers as well as other shoppers can increase your food knowledge in interesting ways. Many of us have already become package readers, even though that information can possibly be somewhat misleading on the surface. The internet has changed our research and shopping habits; so much knowledge and convenience literally at our finger tips, such as (ahem) www.avantisavoia.com
Locally grown, unadulterated and organic and in season
In larger communities not only can one visit large familiar chains but, small produce dealers, farmers markets, natural food stores, gourmet markets, Asian, Mid-eastern, Hispanic and other ethnic markets. Fresh produce is best locally grown, unadulterated and organic and in season.
Size, nature and tastes
Other pantry items in the kitchen depend very much on the size, nature and tastes of the particular individuals or families. For instance a non- cooking single person would stock their pantry quite differently than that of a large family or a couple that enjoys gourmet cooking and entertaining often.
Let's start with herbs, spices and flavorings
Now, the fact that I am a professional chef means that my pantry is loaded with some supplies that many people would not use. A warm climate and the fact that I have a very small greenhouse allow some fresh herbs to be available to me year round. Many of the upscale grocery stores carry a selection of fresh herbs, as well. My current inventory of herb plants (almost all of them in containers) includes four kinds of basil, oregano, tarragon, sage, rosemary, lemon thyme, bay laurel, chives, lavender, spearmint, peppermint and lemon balm. They look great on the deck, are very convenient to the kitchen and make my cooking look and taste fabulous. I regularly harvest and dry many of these for later use. Do note that many dried herbs begin to seriously lose their potency in about one year.
Dried herbs also play an important role in my kitchen

Juniper Berries

I always enjoy using marjoram, chervil, dill weed, summer savory and saffron, even if they are not homegrown. Also nice to have around are dried preparations such as chili powder, file powder, five-spice powder, turmeric and dry mustard and a selection of curries. Quite a number of whole and ground seeds are essential. Favorites are: coriander, mustard, cumin, juniper berries, poppy seeds, fennel, caraway, dill, celery and black and white sesame seeds.
The basic spice list
Both whole and ground spices and extracts enhance many baked products. The basic spice list is nutmeg, cloves, allspice, cardamom, ginger and cinnamon. A variety of pure and natural extracts have not always been easy to obtain at traditional grocery stores. That problem was solved a few years ago, when we discovered the products of Silver Cloud Estates. Whatever flavor (ordinary or exotic) you wish to have in the recipe that you are creating will dictate the extracts that you keep on hand. Silver Cloud has a huge variety of flavors represented by those in our inventory; coconut, cherry, peach, apple, lemon, orange, lime, mango, strawberry, blueberry, raspberry, apricot, almond and two vanilla products. One is a good quality yet familiar extract. The second, Vanilla Bean Paste is just about my favorite vanilla flavoring ever! A few dried delicacies such as seaweeds, mushrooms and lily buds also come in handy. Several kinds of seeds, nuts and dried fruit are in this category, too.
Some 15 different "peppery" products
Peppers and peppercorns get their own category, however. Ground black and white pepper; whole pink, green, white and black peppercorns are all favorites. Currently, Avanti stocks some 15 different "peppery" products including the standard favorites as well as some really tasty exotics such as Ajis Amarillo, Aleppo Pepper, Marash Pepper, Urfa Pepper, Brandied Pepper, Rainbow Whole Peppercorn Mix and Szechuan Peppercorns.

In Part 2 of Stocking the Pantry we'll talk about the only mineral that we eat as food as well as some information on olive oils and vinegars.

HOT STUFF!

Pepper Jelly Set

Do you like it hot?  How hot is hot? 

The Scoville Heat Scale rates the hotness of peppers and is based on the measured concentration of the chemical compound capsaicin.  The highest rating can be from one to two million units; this being the level found in professional pepper spray!  This system bottoms out at zero units for the everyday bell pepper.

Somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 units

At Avanti Savoia, the hottest product that we stock is rated somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 units.  We do offer about 15 different “pepper” products, as well as several pickles and jellies that are enlivened by the addition of hot peppers.  Some of our “hot stuff” is very familiar stuff such as various peppercorns (Piper nigrum of the Piperaceae family) and flaked and ground peppers (Capsicum).  We also stock the so called pink peppercorn (Schinus molle), which is actually the dried berry from what is commonly known as the Peruvian pepper tree or the Brazilian peppertree (Schinus terebinthiifolus).  Another species that is called a peppercorn although it is not a close relative at all of any of the previously listed peppers is the Sichuan peppercorn.  It is procured from a type of Ash tree, (Zanthoxylum).

A flowering vine… native to India

Let’s start with the familiar black pepper (Piper nigrum), found on virtually every table in America.  This dried fruit of a flowering vine is a native of India.  Its pungent, zesty flavor has been highly valued for centuries and as we know the search for pepper/spices played an important role in the discovery of the new world.  Through the 15^th century this highly prized commodity was imported in Europe, the Mid East and North Africa from the Malabar region of India. By the 16^th century pepper plants were also being cultivated in South East Asia, Sumatra, Madagascar, Malaysia and elsewhere.  Pepper remained a luxury product well into the 19^th century when the East India Company began importing enormous amounts, therefore making the spice far more available and far more affordable.

1/5^th of the world’s spice trade

Piper nigrum is the unripe fruit which is harvested, cooked and dried producing black peppercorns. Pepper accounts for about 1/5^th of the world’s spice trade and is often categorized by its place of origin.  Reportedly Vietnam is the world’s largest producer.

Green peppercorns are simply the unripe fruit that is allowed to dry without the cooking process.  White peppercorns are the core of the fruit which has been soaked in water for a week with the outer covering removed.  This produces a mild and light colored berry appreciated by chefs for its appearance as well as flavor

World’s finest peppercorns

Avanti Savoia stocks several options:  BourbonBarrel Smoked Peppercorns are cracked peppercorns that have been slow smoked with aged bourbon barrels which give them a wispy hint of smoke and a subtle oaky flavor that is reminiscent of fine Kentucky bourbon.  Rainbow Peppercorn Mix  features not only a beautiful appearance but, a flavor and aroma that are more complex than black peppercorns alone.  The assortment includes Tellicherry Black, Freeze Dried Green, Montok White and Baies Rose.  Brandied Pepper  is a blend of black and green peppercorns laced with brandy.  Tellicherry Black Peppercorns  are powerful and slightly hot with a hint of sweetness. They originate from the Malabar Coast of Northern India and are considered to be some of the world's finest peppercorns.  White Peppercorns, Muntok are simply ripe peppercorns that have had the skin removed before being dried.    White pepper adds a delicate pungency and blends well in dishes where black pepper would be visible as dark specs.

This is an exciting ingredient

Szechuan Peppercorns are derived from at least two species of the genus Zanthoxylum. They are a wonderfully unique seasoning that is not closely related to the Piper nigrum.  The flavor is derived from the outer hulls of the small dried fruit of the Szechuan pepper and is described as a combination of pepper, citrus and nutmeg; this is an exciting ingredient.  Found in Five Spice Powder it is also delicious in Hot and Sour Soup.  It seems to work best when ground in a mortar and pestle and passed through a strainer.

Chili peppers

What we usually refers to as Chili peppers (Capsicum) include many, many varieties world wide and this is where the Scoville Heat Scale becomes interesting. These are a genus of flowering plants in the Nightshade family (Solanaceae.)

Chef Joseph’s particular favorite

Ajis Amarillo, Ground is a beautiful yellow-orange pepper that is a main stay in Peruvian cuisine.  This pepper has a robust; fruity “burn” coming in from 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units. This is one of Chef Joseph’s particular favorites.   

A sweet dried fruit bouquet

Our Aleppo Pepper, Ground is a dark red, coarsely ground, medium hot pepper with a sweet dried fruit bouquet that hails from the city of Aleppo (Halab) in Northwest Syria. This is a delicious table side condiment used on a wide range of foods.  Aleppo Pepper adds a perfect zip to breakfast eggs or egg salad. 10,000 to 23,000 Scofield units

African Bird Pepper 

Our Cayenne Pepper is ground African Bird Pepper, which comes in at about 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville heat units.

Widely used seasoning

Crushed Red Pepper is a widely used seasoning in many ethnic cuisines, BBQ, pizza, etc.  Wake up an everyday tomato sauce with a little Crushed Red Pepper.

Traditionally blended with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to flavor meats

Mild to medium Marash Pepper Flakes display fruity, slightly acidic flavors with earthy undertones.  These flakes are traditionally blended with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to flavor meats such as chicken, lamb and goat. 

Smoky, raisin – like flavor

Urfa Biber Pepper Flakes, also known as the Isot Pepper, is grown in the Urfa region (Saliurfa) of Turkey.  A unique process of sun drying during the day and wrapping and sweating at night creates the smoky, raisin – like flavor with medium heat – 50,000 Scoville units.

Ideal for any Southwestern recipe

Pure Chili Powder #31012 is a mixture of Ancho (1,000 to 1,500 units), Pasilla Negro (1,000 to 2,500 units) and New Mexican chilies (100 to 1,000 units). Pure Chili Powder is ideal for any Southwestern recipe. 

Familiar rich color

Spanish Paprika (Capsicum annum) is appreciated for its mild flavor and familiar rich color.

Essential to traditional Spanish cuisine

Smoked Paprika, a specialty of the la Vera region west of Madrid “Pimenton de la Vera Dulce” has a distinct smoky flavor and aroma. It is dried by smoking over oak wood which adds a sweet smoky flavor essential to traditional Spanish cuisine such as paella and chorizo.

Oaky flavors of fine Kentucky bourbon

Bourbon Smoked Paprika  Paprikas are often smoked, but none of them are bourbon smoked. This is a combination of sweet, piquant paprika and the mellow, oaky flavors of fine Kentucky bourbon.

Made in the old fashioned southern way

The next products will introduce you to some of the spicier offerings from Lowcountry Produce, a small South Carolina business that specializes in high-quality relishes, chutneys, sauces, preserves, and pickles made in the old fashioned southern way. Whether you are a long standing connoisseur of low country fare or just beginning to appreciate this historic cuisine, we know that you will be charmed by the great offerings from Lowcountry Produce.

Sweet CucumberPickles with Jalapeno Warning! You're getting the best of sweet & spicy hot here-so make sure you like heat!

Pickled Garlic with Jalapeno Similar to Lowcountry’s other popular Pickled Garlic but with a kick. Use to prepare a savory and racy aioli sauce.

Garlic Pepper Jelly will have garlic lovers will swooning with happiness; try it with grilled Italian bread, meat glaze, pizza topping -or wrapped in a tortilla with semi-sharp cheese for a quintessential quesadilla.

Pepper Jelly has become one of our classic favorites- Pepper Jelly poured over cream cheese and spread on crackers is always served at our Avanti Savoia holiday open house.

Strawberry PepperPreserves makes an other wise plain breakfast a truly sensual experience! Try these preserves with rich red strawberries and just a touch of spicy Habanero peppers for a perfectly delicious balance.

Many modern chefs are taken with this concept

Desserts prepared using pepper(s) may seem like an unusual combination at first glance.  However, considering that the Aztecs were fond of chili mixed with their chocolate it is not so outlandish that many modern chefs are taken with this concept.  Check out the following take on the classic French recipe for Tarte Tatin devised by chocolate genius, Jacques Torres.

WHITE PEPPERCORN TARTE TATIN

Serves 8

Ingredients:

For the puff pastry:

• ¼ cup corn syrup
• 1½ Tablespoons water
• 1 sheet puff pastry dough

For the apples:

• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon white peppercorns
• 31/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
• 6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, halved lengthwise, and sprinkled with lemon juice

Instructions:

1.      For the puff pastry, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  In a small bowl, whisk together the corn syrup and water and set aside.

2.      On a flat work surface, roll the pastry to 1/8- inch thick and trim into a 12-inch square.  Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet and, using a docker or the tines of a fork, dock the dough (pierce the dough with holes).  Place in the oven and bake until lightly golden brown.

3.      Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 350 degrees.  Trim the puff pastry into a 9-inch circle, brush with corn syrup, and return to the oven, baking to a golden brown.  Remove from the oven, maintaining the temperature, and reserve.

4.      For the apples, in a small bowl, combine the sugar and pepper. Coat the bottom and sides of a 9-inch saucepan with the butter, sprinkle the bottom of the pan evenly with the peppered sugar, and arrange the apples on top, packing tightly.  Place over medium heat and cook for 20 minutes, or until the sugar has caramelized.  Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 more minutes, or until the apples are softened.  Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly.

5.      To assemble the tarte Tatin, set the puff pastry circle over the apples and invert a plate on top.  Turn the pan to unmold the tarte and set aside, keeping warm.  To serve, place the tarte Tatin on a serving plate and serve with a chilled glass of Moscato d’ Asti.

SWEETS FOR THE SWEET

Wines with desserts

In my last post I reported on a presentation about matching salts, foods and wine for the state convention of the Tennessee Viticultural and Oenological Society. www.tvos.org   We actually presented two programs for that organization; the salt tasting as well as a tasting of locally produced wines with desserts

Grape growing and wine making

The TVOS (of which I am a member) was organized in 1973 is a group of private citizens who conduct and promote the art and science of grape growing (viticulture) and wine making (oenology).  The first time I was invited to stage a demonstration for these folks was 20 years ago in 1993 and with my interest in regional foods and wines the society and I obviously shared much common ground.  This gathering also included an award ceremony for the group’s amateur wine competition in which I participate as a judge.

Combinations that produce harmony, contrast or both

The time honored formula for pairing wine and food is to strive for combinations that produce harmony, contrast or both. It is both the obvious and subtle components within food flavors interacting with the complexity of the wines that produce such amazing results. Some combinations seem crystal clear while others are deep and thoughtful. Each layer of a menu can be matched with a corresponding wine creating a glorious procession of flavors (or sometimes not).  Often, paring wine with the dessert course has simply been serving a wine a little sweeter than the dessert itself.

The most European of simple meal endings

As we considered dessert combinations it seemed like a logical beginning to sample the most European of simple meal endings – bread, fruit and cheese.  French bread, sweet grapes and a Danish blue cheese matched with Mountain Valley “Sonata” Sparkling Wine (a California Blanc de Blanc sparkler would be a good substitute).  Blue cheeses are often paired with sweeter wines but, considering the saltiness (which neutralizes the sense of acidity), and the blue cheese “bite” when eaten with a sweet juicy grape, we felt that it did work quite well with the sparkler. Although we are thinking of this combination in the context of dessert it would also serve as a nice starter because of the dryness and refreshing nature of the sparkling wine.

“God’s gift to the sunny South”

Sweet Potato Butter from avantisavoia.com

This next fusion has “the taste of the Southland” written all over it.  From the Lowcountry of South Carolina   We think that we found that with our Lowcountry Sweet PotatoButter paired with Stonehaus Winery’s American Muscadine (there simply is no substitute for Muscadine).  The Sweet Potato Butter is slow cooked in natural flavors of orange, apple and lemon juices with a dash of apple vinegar for bite.  Sweet, “foxy” Muscadine Wine that Stonehaus describes as “God’s gift to the sunny South” paired with a taste of the Sweet Potato Butter was one of the favorite combos of our tastings. 

comes a taste treat that begged us for a wine that matched its southern nature.

Now here is the hard part

For several years we have been interested in the combination of wine and chocolate.  This has included the traditional port and chocolate as well as experimenting with dry red wines as well. Many of us may have discovered the profound complexity and depth of flavor offered by a wine/chocolate pairing by accident; a bite of chocolate at the end of a meal with a bit of the remaining wine perhaps. This can change not only the way you think of wine and chocolate, but can also enhance the way you taste other flavors as well.  For this particular pairing we have chosen a ChocoloveCherries and Almond in Dark Chocolate Bar (55% Cacao) enjoyed with Mountain Valley’s 2006 Cynthiana Dessert Wine (try a Tawny Port here).  This confection is created with Michigan cherries and dry roasted California almonds in Belgian dark chocolate crafted from African cocoa beans.  Now here is the hard part.  Place the chocolate in your mouth and allow it melt slowly. Then note how the combination of cherries and almonds gradually blends into the complex flavors of dark chocolate.  Combine a sip of wine with the semi melted chocolate in your mouth and experience the magical “slurry” that will result.

SALT(S) OF THE EARTH AND SEA

Salt is the only mineral that we eat as a food and is an essential nutrient and universal ingredient.

Traditional artisan methods

At one time all salt was produced by traditional artisan methods that included solar evaporation, boiling brine or mining from deposits.  Salt was a rare and valuable treasure that was even used as currency.  From the mid nineteenth century industrial methods of producing salt reduced not only the availability of natural salt but also its appreciation.  However, in the last few decades there has been an upsurge in the use of artisan salts not just to season a dish but to consider the “terroir” or “meroir” of a particular salt that specifically enhances a particular dish.  We call this “salting mindfully”, a term that we have borrowed from our friend, Mark Bitterman, Master Selmelier.  We will speak more about Mark and his work a little latter.

Different styles, grinds, colors, flavors and nuances

Avanti Savoia offers an assortment of more than 20 various salts from around the world which we usually just refer to as gourmet finishing salts. Different styles, grinds, colors, flavors and nuances have been a delight for the Avanti chefs to experiment with in our cooking school, La Cucina.  It was also fun and interesting for us to offer a program recently on matching salts, foods and wine for the state convention of the Tennessee Viticultural and Enological Society. www.tvos.org

Grape growing and wine making

The TVOS (of which I am a member) was organized in 1973 is a group of private citizens who conduct and promote the art and science of grape growing (viticulture) and wine making (oenology).  The first time I was invited to stage a demonstration for these folks was 20 years ago in 1993 and with my interest in regional foods and wines the society and I obviously shared much common ground.  This gathering also included an award ceremony for the group’s amateur wine competition in which I participate as a judge. 

The following is a brief description of the salt program that we presented.

Sun, wind, and seawater join forces in the famous salt ponds of Guérande to produce the delicate Fleurde Sel ("flower of salt"). The fine, light sea salt crystals are coveted by gourmands around the world for their subtle flavor and high concentration of minerals. Regarded as the "caviar of sea salts," this premium finishing salt will enhance the individual flavors in any dish you prepare. We sampled it with a classic French salt tasting combination: slices of bread spread with unsalted butter, and fresh radishes sprinkled with Fleur de Sel. This was paired with Mountain Valley Vineyard’s “Sonata” Sparkling Wine.

It is the utter simplicity of the next classic tasting combination that contains its appeal.  Bread drizzled with Vantera Extra Virgin Olive Oil and seasoned with Salish Alder Wood Smoked Sea Salt. This distinctive salt is named for the indigenous people who first inhabited Washington State's Puget Sound. The salt crystals are slow-smoked over native Northwest Red Alder wood, the same trees used for centuries to smoke salmon.  This artisan salt is a surefire seasoning favorite for finishing any dish prepared on the grill. Vantera is a blend of Ortice, Leccino and Raciopella olives from the Campania region of Italy. The succulent vegetal blend of grass and green tomato flawlessly balances the bitter and spicy overtones producing a lightly spicy after taste in this distinctive golden-yellow oil. Our wine for this tasting was Hillside Winery’s Red Zinfandel.

A slice of Honey Crisp apple sprinkled with Alaea Hawaiian Sea Salt gives us the opportunity to experience the clean combination of crisp, sweet and salty. A touch of Alaea- red baked volcanic clay - gives this natural sea salt its distinctive red color, adds a healthy dose of iron oxide, and seals in moisture. Traditionally this earthy artisan salt is used as a culinary seasoning, preservative, and in native healing and cleansing rituals.  Although a little “outside of the box” we decided that Mountain Valley’s Rhubarb Wine created a provocative combination.

Mark Bitterman

This really was a fun event and was well received by the participants.  The opportunity to actually match food, salt and wine was most appealing to our sense of creativity.  We were greatly assisted by Mark Bitterman’s gorgeous cookbook, Salted. Mark is Selmelier of The Meadow, an artisanal-product boutique. I had the opportunity to meet Mark at another event that we had both been invited to as presenters.  Mark with his salts and me with our Avanti Extra Virgin Olive Oils and Balsamic Vinegars.  We had a great time combining our products for our own edification.

A special thanks to Collier Wine Group and Stonehaus Winery for sharing their wines.

If you enjoyed this post and should you be interested in purchasing Mark Bitterman's book, Salted, please feel free to use the link below.  We do make a small commission from Amazon.
 

Smoking Point of Oils

Low Smoke Point vs High Smoke Point

Different cooking oils do react differently to heat, generally the higher they are heated, the more they break down and start to smoke. The temperature at which any particular oil will begin to smoke is called a smoke point. A high smoke point means that it can be heated to a higher temperature before it starts to smoke.
Vegetable oils tend to have higher smoke points than animal product based fats.  However, refined oils, with more impurities removed results in an even higher smoke point. There are other factors involved as well, the longer the oil heats and begins to brake down the lower its smoke point becomes. So, fresh oil will have a higher smoke point than leftover used oil.  The general rule of thumb is to discard the old oil after three uses.

In a commercial food service setting rarely is olive oil used for frying and I’ve never seen it used for deep frying. That is not to say that very good results can not be attained by sautéing using a product such as Avanti Savoia’s cooking olive oil. One of the overriding factors is not only the prospect of losing the very delicate and subtle organoleptic characteristics ( of fine extra virgin olive oil but, also the cost.
Health benefits … are not lost…
While we do recommend our Avanti Savoia cooking oil for sautéing we usually reserve our top quality olive oils for recipes such as pasta, salad dressings, dipping oils or adding fine extra virgin olive oil at the end of the cooking process such as drizzling on vegetables, fish, poultry or meats. The health benefits of extra virgin olive oil are not lost as long as the oil is not heated past its smoking point.  But what is that point?
Finding reliable and accurate smoke point sources can be challenging as even the information provided by experts can vary widely in the exact temperatures at which a particular variety of oil will began to smoke. I began to research some material for this post with my “usual suspects” of technical references.  Very quickly I came to appreciate the very different information given by a number of qualified experts.  A bit of the conflicting data has been collected here for you to compare for yourself.

SMOKING POINT OF OILS
On Cooking – A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals
Butter – 260 F
Lard - 370 F
Canola Oil – 430 F to 448 F
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – 250 F
Peanut Oil – 450 F
Shortening, vegetable – 410F
Soybean Oil – 495 F 
The Professional Chef – Culinary Institute of America
“Generally, vegetable oils begin to smoke around 450 F, while animal fats begin to smoke around 375 F.  Any additional materials in the fat (emulsifiers, preservatives, proteins, carbohydrates) lower the smoke point.”
On Food and Cooking – by Harold McGee
Butter – 250 F
Lard – 400 F
Vegetable oils – close to 450 F
Shortening, vegetable – 370 F
Food Lover’s Companion – by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst
Canola oil – 435 F
Olive oil – 410 F
Peanut oil – 450 F
Sesame Seed oil – F
Soybean oil – 450 F
About.com Culinary Arts
Butter, whole – 350 F
Butter, clarified – 450 F to 475 F
Canola oil – 425 F to 475 F
Lard – 375 F
Olive oil – 325 F to 375 F
Soybean oil – 450 F to 475 F
Wikipedia
Butter – 250 F – 300 F
Canola, refined – 400 F
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – 375 F
Lard – 370 F
Peanut oil, unrefined - 320 F
Peanut oil, refined – 450 F
Sesame oil, unrefined – 350 F
Sesame oil, semi refined – 450 F
Soy oil, unrefined – 320 F
Shortening, vegetable – 360 F
International Olive Oil Council (IOOC)
“When heated, olive oil is the most stable fat, which means it stands up well to high frying temperatures. Its high smoke point (410ºF or 210ºC) is well above the ideal temperature for frying food (356ºF or 180ºC). The digestibility of olive oil is not affected when it is heated, even when it is re-used several times for frying.”

It all sort of depends on who you believe and for a professional chef – there is nothing like a few decades of experience.

Happy frying!

THE GREAT AMERICAN THANKSGIVING

For the typical American just the words “Traditional Thanksgiving Dinner” have the power to evoke a whole range of images and catchwords. Whose tradition?  What dinner?  And for that matter, why are we giving thanks in this manner, anyway?  Americans love Thanksgiving and as we all know, celebrate it with family reunions, gatherings of friends and sumptuous feasts.  We also surround it with an enormous collection of myths and questionable history.  As we enthusiastically observe our “great North American Holiday” note that we were hardly the first civilization to set aside days of thanks.  Greeks, Romans, Anglo-Saxons, Hebrews and many other ancient cultures all celebrated in the autumn to give thanks for an abundant harvest. 

The event that we generally think of as the first Thanksgiving was in 1621.  It was a three day English Harvest Festival celebrated by some 90-odd Wampanoag Native Americans and about 60 of the surviving Pilgrims.  We hold dearly to an enduring image of the somberly dressed Pilgrims and their native guests enjoying a “traditional” Thanksgiving menu.  However the iconic Turkey might not have adorned the groaning board, as the term was generically used to indicate wild fowl which very well may have been duck or goose.  No pumpkin pies or dinner rolls either, as the colonist had long before exhausted their supplies of flour.  Boiled pumpkin and fried cornmeal bread were far more likely and it is recorded that the feasters enjoyed the fresh venison from 5 deer contributed by Chief Massasoit and his countrymen.  Their menu was further enhanced by lobster, clams and other freshwater fish.  Berries, dried fruit and wild greens were probably enjoyed, as well. 

Even the day upon which we celebrate this event has gone through considerable evolution.  As genuinely successful as this “first” Thanksgiving seems to have been, it was not repeated the next year and was never observed by the Pilgrims on any regular day.  The establishment of the national holiday on a regular annual basis was the result of a 1863 proclamation by President Abraham Lincoln which established our present holiday on the last Thursday of November.  We have continued with this tradition ever since (mythic imagery and all) except for a brief and unpopular switch to the third Thursday in November during FDR’s administration.

People tend to be very opinionated and passionate about their culinary preferences, although this has more to do with regional tastes and individual family prejudices than with historical facts.  As a youngster in Texas of the 1950s, I fondly remember my father’s absolute contempt for all white bread “Yankee Dressing”.  My grandmother’s sage and cornbread dressing was and is the holy writ.  However, in both my home and career, I have discovered that it is not necessarily heresy to recognize the melting pot nature of our American holiday.  In this spirit we offer you our recipe for Sweet Potato Mousse.

SWEET POTATO MOUSSE

A unique Southern dessert made with Lowcountry Produce’s Sweet Potato Butter; a favorite at Avanti Savoia’s annual Open House

Serves 8 to 10

Available at Avanti Savoia*

Ingredients:

·        12 ounces Whipped Cream Cheese

·        ¼ cup Doug’s Other Honey*

·        One 16 ounce jar Lowcountry Produce Sweet Potato Butter*

·        2 teaspoons Silver Cloud Vanilla Bean Paste*

·        ½ teaspoon Avanti Savoia Allspice*

·        2 teaspoons Avanti Savoia Cinnamon*

·        !/2 teaspoon Nutmeg*

·        ½ pint heavy cream

·        2 Tablespoons powdered sugar

Instructions:

1.            Bring cream cheese to room temp and whip in an electric mixer until smooth. 

2.            Add honey and mix well. 

3.            Add Sweet Potato Butter and blend very well, scraping down sides as necessary.  Next, blend in the vanilla and spices.

4.            In a separate mixing bowl, whip cream and powdered sugar until fluffy.  Fold this into the mousse mixture. 

5.            Place mousse into attractive serving bowl or individual serving bowls.  The mousse can also be served in bite size pastry cups.  Refrigerate over night or for a least several hours.

6.            Serve with or without a dollop of whipped cream.