Stocking the Pantry Part 1

We are not talking about the quick and harried trip to the grocery store
An often asked question in our cooking classes concern the proper stocking of home pantries and the usual answer is "it depends". We love to approach food shopping as a continuing education; something exciting rather than just a necessary chore. This means of course, that you must give yourself time to enjoy it. We are not talking here about the quick and harried trip to the grocery store sandwiched (no pun intended) between getting off work, stopping by the gym and rushing home to get something on the dinner table.
Chat with your suppliers
Having a little extra time to chat with your suppliers as well as other shoppers can increase your food knowledge in interesting ways. Many of us have already become package readers, even though that information can possibly be somewhat misleading on the surface. The internet has changed our research and shopping habits; so much knowledge and convenience literally at our finger tips, such as (ahem) www.avantisavoia.com
Locally grown, unadulterated and organic and in season
In larger communities not only can one visit large familiar chains but, small produce dealers, farmers markets, natural food stores, gourmet markets, Asian, Mid-eastern, Hispanic and other ethnic markets. Fresh produce is best locally grown, unadulterated and organic and in season.
Size, nature and tastes
Other pantry items in the kitchen depend very much on the size, nature and tastes of the particular individuals or families. For instance a non- cooking single person would stock their pantry quite differently than that of a large family or a couple that enjoys gourmet cooking and entertaining often.
Let's start with herbs, spices and flavorings
Now, the fact that I am a professional chef means that my pantry is loaded with some supplies that many people would not use. A warm climate and the fact that I have a very small greenhouse allow some fresh herbs to be available to me year round. Many of the upscale grocery stores carry a selection of fresh herbs, as well. My current inventory of herb plants (almost all of them in containers) includes four kinds of basil, oregano, tarragon, sage, rosemary, lemon thyme, bay laurel, chives, lavender, spearmint, peppermint and lemon balm. They look great on the deck, are very convenient to the kitchen and make my cooking look and taste fabulous. I regularly harvest and dry many of these for later use. Do note that many dried herbs begin to seriously lose their potency in about one year.
Dried herbs also play an important role in my kitchen

Juniper Berries

I always enjoy using marjoram, chervil, dill weed, summer savory and saffron, even if they are not homegrown. Also nice to have around are dried preparations such as chili powder, file powder, five-spice powder, turmeric and dry mustard and a selection of curries. Quite a number of whole and ground seeds are essential. Favorites are: coriander, mustard, cumin, juniper berries, poppy seeds, fennel, caraway, dill, celery and black and white sesame seeds.
The basic spice list
Both whole and ground spices and extracts enhance many baked products. The basic spice list is nutmeg, cloves, allspice, cardamom, ginger and cinnamon. A variety of pure and natural extracts have not always been easy to obtain at traditional grocery stores. That problem was solved a few years ago, when we discovered the products of Silver Cloud Estates. Whatever flavor (ordinary or exotic) you wish to have in the recipe that you are creating will dictate the extracts that you keep on hand. Silver Cloud has a huge variety of flavors represented by those in our inventory; coconut, cherry, peach, apple, lemon, orange, lime, mango, strawberry, blueberry, raspberry, apricot, almond and two vanilla products. One is a good quality yet familiar extract. The second, Vanilla Bean Paste is just about my favorite vanilla flavoring ever! A few dried delicacies such as seaweeds, mushrooms and lily buds also come in handy. Several kinds of seeds, nuts and dried fruit are in this category, too.
Some 15 different "peppery" products
Peppers and peppercorns get their own category, however. Ground black and white pepper; whole pink, green, white and black peppercorns are all favorites. Currently, Avanti stocks some 15 different "peppery" products including the standard favorites as well as some really tasty exotics such as Ajis Amarillo, Aleppo Pepper, Marash Pepper, Urfa Pepper, Brandied Pepper, Rainbow Whole Peppercorn Mix and Szechuan Peppercorns.

In Part 2 of Stocking the Pantry we'll talk about the only mineral that we eat as food as well as some information on olive oils and vinegars.

HOT STUFF!

Pepper Jelly Set

Do you like it hot?  How hot is hot? 

The Scoville Heat Scale rates the hotness of peppers and is based on the measured concentration of the chemical compound capsaicin.  The highest rating can be from one to two million units; this being the level found in professional pepper spray!  This system bottoms out at zero units for the everyday bell pepper.

Somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 units

At Avanti Savoia, the hottest product that we stock is rated somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 units.  We do offer about 15 different “pepper” products, as well as several pickles and jellies that are enlivened by the addition of hot peppers.  Some of our “hot stuff” is very familiar stuff such as various peppercorns (Piper nigrum of the Piperaceae family) and flaked and ground peppers (Capsicum).  We also stock the so called pink peppercorn (Schinus molle), which is actually the dried berry from what is commonly known as the Peruvian pepper tree or the Brazilian peppertree (Schinus terebinthiifolus).  Another species that is called a peppercorn although it is not a close relative at all of any of the previously listed peppers is the Sichuan peppercorn.  It is procured from a type of Ash tree, (Zanthoxylum).

A flowering vine… native to India

Let’s start with the familiar black pepper (Piper nigrum), found on virtually every table in America.  This dried fruit of a flowering vine is a native of India.  Its pungent, zesty flavor has been highly valued for centuries and as we know the search for pepper/spices played an important role in the discovery of the new world.  Through the 15^th century this highly prized commodity was imported in Europe, the Mid East and North Africa from the Malabar region of India. By the 16^th century pepper plants were also being cultivated in South East Asia, Sumatra, Madagascar, Malaysia and elsewhere.  Pepper remained a luxury product well into the 19^th century when the East India Company began importing enormous amounts, therefore making the spice far more available and far more affordable.

1/5^th of the world’s spice trade

Piper nigrum is the unripe fruit which is harvested, cooked and dried producing black peppercorns. Pepper accounts for about 1/5^th of the world’s spice trade and is often categorized by its place of origin.  Reportedly Vietnam is the world’s largest producer.

Green peppercorns are simply the unripe fruit that is allowed to dry without the cooking process.  White peppercorns are the core of the fruit which has been soaked in water for a week with the outer covering removed.  This produces a mild and light colored berry appreciated by chefs for its appearance as well as flavor

World’s finest peppercorns

Avanti Savoia stocks several options:  BourbonBarrel Smoked Peppercorns are cracked peppercorns that have been slow smoked with aged bourbon barrels which give them a wispy hint of smoke and a subtle oaky flavor that is reminiscent of fine Kentucky bourbon.  Rainbow Peppercorn Mix  features not only a beautiful appearance but, a flavor and aroma that are more complex than black peppercorns alone.  The assortment includes Tellicherry Black, Freeze Dried Green, Montok White and Baies Rose.  Brandied Pepper  is a blend of black and green peppercorns laced with brandy.  Tellicherry Black Peppercorns  are powerful and slightly hot with a hint of sweetness. They originate from the Malabar Coast of Northern India and are considered to be some of the world's finest peppercorns.  White Peppercorns, Muntok are simply ripe peppercorns that have had the skin removed before being dried.    White pepper adds a delicate pungency and blends well in dishes where black pepper would be visible as dark specs.

This is an exciting ingredient

Szechuan Peppercorns are derived from at least two species of the genus Zanthoxylum. They are a wonderfully unique seasoning that is not closely related to the Piper nigrum.  The flavor is derived from the outer hulls of the small dried fruit of the Szechuan pepper and is described as a combination of pepper, citrus and nutmeg; this is an exciting ingredient.  Found in Five Spice Powder it is also delicious in Hot and Sour Soup.  It seems to work best when ground in a mortar and pestle and passed through a strainer.

Chili peppers

What we usually refers to as Chili peppers (Capsicum) include many, many varieties world wide and this is where the Scoville Heat Scale becomes interesting. These are a genus of flowering plants in the Nightshade family (Solanaceae.)

Chef Joseph’s particular favorite

Ajis Amarillo, Ground is a beautiful yellow-orange pepper that is a main stay in Peruvian cuisine.  This pepper has a robust; fruity “burn” coming in from 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville units. This is one of Chef Joseph’s particular favorites.   

A sweet dried fruit bouquet

Our Aleppo Pepper, Ground is a dark red, coarsely ground, medium hot pepper with a sweet dried fruit bouquet that hails from the city of Aleppo (Halab) in Northwest Syria. This is a delicious table side condiment used on a wide range of foods.  Aleppo Pepper adds a perfect zip to breakfast eggs or egg salad. 10,000 to 23,000 Scofield units

African Bird Pepper 

Our Cayenne Pepper is ground African Bird Pepper, which comes in at about 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville heat units.

Widely used seasoning

Crushed Red Pepper is a widely used seasoning in many ethnic cuisines, BBQ, pizza, etc.  Wake up an everyday tomato sauce with a little Crushed Red Pepper.

Traditionally blended with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to flavor meats

Mild to medium Marash Pepper Flakes display fruity, slightly acidic flavors with earthy undertones.  These flakes are traditionally blended with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to flavor meats such as chicken, lamb and goat. 

Smoky, raisin – like flavor

Urfa Biber Pepper Flakes, also known as the Isot Pepper, is grown in the Urfa region (Saliurfa) of Turkey.  A unique process of sun drying during the day and wrapping and sweating at night creates the smoky, raisin – like flavor with medium heat – 50,000 Scoville units.

Ideal for any Southwestern recipe

Pure Chili Powder #31012 is a mixture of Ancho (1,000 to 1,500 units), Pasilla Negro (1,000 to 2,500 units) and New Mexican chilies (100 to 1,000 units). Pure Chili Powder is ideal for any Southwestern recipe. 

Familiar rich color

Spanish Paprika (Capsicum annum) is appreciated for its mild flavor and familiar rich color.

Essential to traditional Spanish cuisine

Smoked Paprika, a specialty of the la Vera region west of Madrid “Pimenton de la Vera Dulce” has a distinct smoky flavor and aroma. It is dried by smoking over oak wood which adds a sweet smoky flavor essential to traditional Spanish cuisine such as paella and chorizo.

Oaky flavors of fine Kentucky bourbon

Bourbon Smoked Paprika  Paprikas are often smoked, but none of them are bourbon smoked. This is a combination of sweet, piquant paprika and the mellow, oaky flavors of fine Kentucky bourbon.

Made in the old fashioned southern way

The next products will introduce you to some of the spicier offerings from Lowcountry Produce, a small South Carolina business that specializes in high-quality relishes, chutneys, sauces, preserves, and pickles made in the old fashioned southern way. Whether you are a long standing connoisseur of low country fare or just beginning to appreciate this historic cuisine, we know that you will be charmed by the great offerings from Lowcountry Produce.

Sweet CucumberPickles with Jalapeno Warning! You're getting the best of sweet & spicy hot here-so make sure you like heat!

Pickled Garlic with Jalapeno Similar to Lowcountry’s other popular Pickled Garlic but with a kick. Use to prepare a savory and racy aioli sauce.

Garlic Pepper Jelly will have garlic lovers will swooning with happiness; try it with grilled Italian bread, meat glaze, pizza topping -or wrapped in a tortilla with semi-sharp cheese for a quintessential quesadilla.

Pepper Jelly has become one of our classic favorites- Pepper Jelly poured over cream cheese and spread on crackers is always served at our Avanti Savoia holiday open house.

Strawberry PepperPreserves makes an other wise plain breakfast a truly sensual experience! Try these preserves with rich red strawberries and just a touch of spicy Habanero peppers for a perfectly delicious balance.

Many modern chefs are taken with this concept

Desserts prepared using pepper(s) may seem like an unusual combination at first glance.  However, considering that the Aztecs were fond of chili mixed with their chocolate it is not so outlandish that many modern chefs are taken with this concept.  Check out the following take on the classic French recipe for Tarte Tatin devised by chocolate genius, Jacques Torres.

WHITE PEPPERCORN TARTE TATIN

Serves 8

Ingredients:

For the puff pastry:

• ¼ cup corn syrup
• 1½ Tablespoons water
• 1 sheet puff pastry dough

For the apples:

• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon white peppercorns
• 31/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
• 6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, halved lengthwise, and sprinkled with lemon juice

Instructions:

1.      For the puff pastry, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  In a small bowl, whisk together the corn syrup and water and set aside.

2.      On a flat work surface, roll the pastry to 1/8- inch thick and trim into a 12-inch square.  Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet and, using a docker or the tines of a fork, dock the dough (pierce the dough with holes).  Place in the oven and bake until lightly golden brown.

3.      Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 350 degrees.  Trim the puff pastry into a 9-inch circle, brush with corn syrup, and return to the oven, baking to a golden brown.  Remove from the oven, maintaining the temperature, and reserve.

4.      For the apples, in a small bowl, combine the sugar and pepper. Coat the bottom and sides of a 9-inch saucepan with the butter, sprinkle the bottom of the pan evenly with the peppered sugar, and arrange the apples on top, packing tightly.  Place over medium heat and cook for 20 minutes, or until the sugar has caramelized.  Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 more minutes, or until the apples are softened.  Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly.

5.      To assemble the tarte Tatin, set the puff pastry circle over the apples and invert a plate on top.  Turn the pan to unmold the tarte and set aside, keeping warm.  To serve, place the tarte Tatin on a serving plate and serve with a chilled glass of Moscato d’ Asti.

DRY RUBS, SMOKING, and GRILLING

Herbal and Spice Mixtures for Smoking and Grilling Meats, Poultry or Seafood

Dry rub mixtures (and marinades, which we will cover in another article) are the perfect way to prepare dishes for the long cooking process of slow smoking. They lend a deep savory flavor to smoked meats and as they are usually cooked over indirect heat, burning or scorching is not a problem. Dry rub mixtures can be made out of almost any ground spice or herb combinations. However, certain combinations can produce the suggestion of any number of cultures and cuisines. I’ve rarely followed a specific recipe in professional or personal cooking, as I have a fairly good idea of what works and the flavors that represent many regional tastes. As this might not be so familiar to you and your kitchen, I have collected a few ideas to help get you started. Feel free to alter the amounts according to your personal taste.

To Begin...
Always carefully rinse the foods to be cooked and completely dry each piece. Do
this ahead of time and place the items in the refrigerator uncovered up to a couple of hours while you prepare your dry rub, light the fire, etc. Remove meat from the refrigerator and hand rub each piece with a small amount of Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Olive Oil* (#19999) and your selection of a dry rub. Use as much dry rub as will stick (about 1/3 cup for one whole chicken or a 5 lb. Boston Butt pork roast, ½ cup for a small whole turkey and so on). Allow the seasoned meat to sit out at room temperature for 15 or 20 minutes before beginning the cooking process.

The Fire
This depends entirely upon what equipment and system you are using, but the best smoking is always done over indirect heat. This can even be done on a very simple kettle type charcoal grill by simply arranging the charcoal in a ring around the edge of the grill. Like a doughnut with no charcoal in the middle over which the meat or whatever will cook. Amounts of charcoal will vary according to the size or amount of items to be smoked. Do not scrimp on the charcoal because you do not want the fire to go out before you have finished the smoking process, a little experience will help you to make the right call. Light your fire according to your custom (lighter fluid or however) and allow it ignite to a full glow. Make sure the meat rack is clean and hot before you begin cooking.

Wood Chips for Smoking
Most of us are aware of the packages of Hickory or Mesquite chips that are available wherever grilling supplies are sold. Good enough, but there are many other choices that may be available out of your own backyard or at least your own area. Almost any wood from fruit tree pruning will work well instilling its own subtle character and flavor. On our home grill we have had great luck with wood chips from our small orchard (peach, plum, nectarine and cherry) as well as terrific results from wild cherry trees that grow abundantly in our locale. These are the same wild cherries used in the infamous “Cherry Bounce Moonshine”. But, that is indeed another story. Wood from nut trees is really nice too, especially walnut and pecan. I find that pieces of wood about twice the size of my thumb work best for me. Sometimes I soak them in water first and sometimes I use them dry, both methods work just fine but, I think I prefer using the chips dry. I find however that a water pan under the meat rack is very important in producing a nice moist meat. You can also use many different kinds of liquid in the water pan besides water (wine, beer, mint tea, or even soda pop that has gone flat-use your imagination). Wood chips or pieces are added after all the coals are glowing and just before adding the meat.

Cooking and Smoking
Remove the meat rack from smoker and spray the rack first with a cooking spray to prevent sticking. Pour your liquid of choice into the water pan; place a big handful or two of wood pieces on top of the charcoal. Return oil sprayed rack to smoker and place the prepared and seasoned meat in the middle of the meat rack. Cover with the lid to the grill and let it rip. You can adjust the amount of heat and smoke by leaving space between the lid and grill. Turn items as needed and enjoy.

Guide for Mixing Dry Rubs
Whole seeds or spices can be ground in a small spice grinder or by hand using a mortar and pestle. Combine all ingredients and rub mixture on meats using your (clean) hands.

(*Available at Avanti Savoia)

Italiano Robusto
Use 1/3 to ½ half cup of Don Vito’s Gold Italian Blend* #30001 (Avanti-Savoia exclusive) directly from the jar.

Signature Mediterranean
Perfect for chicken; Don Vito’s Gold Mediterranean Blend* #30002 (Avanti- Savoia exclusive) Use to taste, as it is, right out of the jar.

Fiesta Mexicana
1/4 cup (freshly ground) Cumin seed* #32040 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. (freshly ground) Coriander seed* #32015 Ferri Dal 1905
2 Tblsp. Green Oregano “Sicily”* #32050 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Picante (Hot) Paprika* #32105 El Ruisenor
Small pinch of Cayenne pepper
1 tsp. Peruvian Pink salt* #35012 Artisan

Exotic Asian
¼ cup Ground Ginger* #32065 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. (freshly ground) Coriander seed* #32015
1 Tblsp. Ground Cinnamon* #32030 Ferri Dal 1905
2 Tblsp. (freshly ground) Fennel seed* #32035 Ferri Dal 1905
1 tsp. Peperoncino Flakes* #32121 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Kala Namak salt* #35015 Artisan

Cajun’s Delight
3 Tblsp. Thyme* #32055 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Rosemary* #32045 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Green Oregano “Sicily”* #32050 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Ground Black Pepper* #32001
2 Tblsp. Garlic Powder (not garlic salt)
½ tsp. Ground Cloves* #32021 Ferri Dal 1905
½ tsp. Ground Allspice* #32071 Ferri Dal 1905
½ tsp. Picante Paprika* #32100
Pinch of Portuguese- Flor de Sel* #35009 Artisan


Heart O’ Texas
Inspired by Texas tradition but served in Tennessee for almost 20 years.
2 Tblsp. (freshly ground) Cumin seed* #32040 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Thyme* #32055 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. Green Oregano “Sicily”* #32050 Ferri Dal 1905
2 Tblsp. Garlic Powder (not garlic salt)
2 Tblsp. Chili Powder
1 Tblsp. (crushed) Juniper Berries* #32025 Ferri Dal 1905
2 tsp. Ground Black Pepper* #32001 Ferri Dal 1905
Pinch of Salish Smoked Salt* #35019

Catering Chef David Lowery’s Dry Rub
A Memphis inspired blend that has been prepared for years by my brother in Austin, Texas.
2 Tblsps. garlic powder
2 Tblsps. Paprika* #32100 El Ruisenor
2 Tblsps. Chili Powder
1 Tblsp. Green Oregano “Sicily”* #32050 Ferri Dal 1905
2 tsp. (ground) Cumin seed* #32040 Ferri Dal 1905
1 Tblsp. dry Mustard
2 tsp. Sel Gris salt* #35023 Artisan
1 tsp.Ground Black Pepper* #32001 Ferri Dal 1905

Pop Lowery’s Texas Lemon Barbecue Sauce
Yield: About 4 Cups
This sauce is particularly good on chicken but do not baste with any liquid sauce until toward the end of the cooking process. This helps prevent the sugars from burning or scorching so quickly.
Grated and finely chopped peel and juice of 1 lemon
2 Tblsp. of yellow onion, finely chopped
12 ozs. Chili sauce
2 Tblsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 Tblsp. brown sugar
¼ cup prepared mustard
2 tsp. Ground Black Pepper* #32001 Ferri Dal 1905
1 tsp. Chili powder
1 tsp. Garlic powder
½ tsp. Tabasco sauce
2 tsp. Sel Gris Sea Salt* #35023 Artisan
¼ cup All-Purpose Cooking Olive Oil* (19999)

1. Mix all ingredients together and simmer about 20 minutes over low heat. Stir often to prevent sticking.
2. Baste chicken or other meats towards the end of the cooking process and also serve the sauce hot at the table.

Wine finishing sauces from Leaning Oaks Vineyard in Texas are fantastic on smoked meats. Try the Cabernet* #33240 or the Zinfandel* #33255.