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We Still Love Them, But Know Your Source!
Lycopersicum Esculentum or “edible wolf’s peach” is a favorite of almost everyone. Our English word tomato is derived from the Nahuatl word, tomatl, and the tomatl hails from South America, where it was originally found in the vicinity of what is now Peru. Europeans took tomatoes home with them in the 1520s and the rest is history. The “pomme d’amour” is now dearly beloved by both epicureans and good ol’ boys and girls on both side of the Atlantic.
Americans tend to think of tomatoes as a universal ingredient in Italian cuisine. Not true of course, and the use of tomatoes in Italian cuisine is usually defined by regional traditions. Grown in the hothouses of the European wealthy as an ornamental annual, tomatoes were first enjoyed as cuisine in Italy and the southern Mediterranean. The northern Europeans considered the fruit poisonous, probably because of its kinship with the deadly nightshade plant. The foliage of the tomato plant is toxic however. Tomatoes are members of the Solanaceae family which also include other benign relatives such as the eggplant and potato.
The recent outbreak of the bacterial infection Salmonella which was first associated with some tomatoes has been very disturbing to me. Although hot peppers may now be the culprit, it is now even more important to be absolutely sure of your source for fresh tomatoes and other produce. Local organic farmers in areas not associated with the outbreak are the safest providers, unless you are able to grow your own, which have the most succulent flavor anyway.
Serving temperature was a big concern to the legendary Julia Child. She called tomatoes “a persnickety being” in her book “The Way To Cook,” published by Alfred A. Knopf.
She goes on to declare, “The sad fact is that tomatoes are permanently traumatized if they remain for more than a few hours at temperatures lower than 55 degrees, whether in the field or in storage. Afterward, they may turn red, and their interstices may fill with jelly, but their flavor will never develop that real taste. When fully ripe, tomatoes still do not like a cold climate. Store them at 55 degrees (like wine) at cool room temperature, since they lose their flavor when refrigerated.”
Did You Know?
Tomato skins can be tough and juice and seeds can dilute the flavor in your recipes.
Avoid this problem by skinning, juicing and seeding your tomatoes by using these techniques.
Skinning: Dip tomatoes into a pan of boiling water for a couple of minutes and then plunge them into ice water. The skin will split and can be easily removed with the blade of a paring knife. Remove the core with the tip of the knife or a tomato shark.
Juicing and Seeding: To do this quickly and effectively, peel and core fresh tomatoes
(as explained previously) and cut into quarters. Over the sink or a bowl, hold the outside of each quarter against your palm and dig your fingers into the seed chamber and squeeze gently. The pulp is then ready for chopping or other preparation.
Did You Know?
Leeks are often very sandy and must be carefully cleaned before use. Remove wilted or yellowed leaves from stalks and slice leeks in half lengthwise. Then cut the leeks into ¼ inch thick pieces. Soak the pieces in a large bowl of cool water for 10 to 15 minutes, and then remove them carefully so as not to stir up the sand that has settled in the bottom of the bowl. Place the leek pieces in a colander and rinse very thoroughly. Allow them to drain for a few moments. Then pat dry with a paper towel or spin dry in a salad spinner. Cleaned, dry leeks may be chopped further, if desired.
(*Available at Avanti Savoia, www.avantisavoia.com)
TOMATO AND LEEK SAUCE
Yields: 6 Servings
12 large ripe tomatoes ( 7 cups finely chopped )
2 large stalks celery (2/3 cup chopped)
6 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
2 medium leeks (2 cups chopped)
2 Tblsp.extra virgin olive oil Fruttato Intenso by Marcinase*
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. thyme*
1 tsp. oregano*
1 tsp. fennel seeds*
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
2 tsp. (or to taste) Sel Gris sea salt*
Pinch sugar
1 cup dry red wine
½ cup chicken stock
Peel, juice, and seed tomatoes. ( see previous instructions ) Chop by hand or puree in food processor. Set aside.
Remove strings from celery and chop. Chop leeks and wash. ( see following leek info )
Heat Marcinase extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet and add garlic and leeks. Cook over a moderate heat 3 or 4 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add celery and cook 5 minutes more.
Add tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, oregano, fennel seeds, cayenne pepper, sea salt and sugar. Simmer for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Add wine and chicken stock. Cook 20 to 30 minutes more, check for seasoning and serve with pasta or as a sauce for seafood, chicken or veal.
OVEN ROASTED TOMATO GAZAPACHO
Yield: 8 Servings
6 large tomatoes, oven roasted with peels removed
4 bell peppers
4 cucumbers, peeled
2 stalks celery, strings removed
4 whole green onions
3 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
1 medium hot, pickled jalapeño
2 Tblsp. parsley, freshly chopped
1 tsp. oregano*
1 tsp. black peppercorns, coarsely ground*
1 Tblsp. sweet paprika*
1 tsp. (or more) Tabasco sauce
3 cups spicy tomato juice
Juice of ½ lime
Juice of ½ lemon
2 to 3 tsp. of fine Sel Gris salt from Artisan*
¼ cup Sherry Wine Vinegar *
2 Tblsp. extra virgin olive oil from Avanti Savoia*
½ cup bread crumbs (homemade if possible)
¼ cup whole cilantro leaves, stems removed (for garnish)
1. To Oven Roast Tomatoes: Heat oven to 500 degrees. Place washed tomatoes on
baking tray and broil under hot broiler for about 5 minutes until skin blackens
some what. Remove tray from oven, remove skins and stems and set aside.
2. Chop each vegetable by hand or in a food processor. Combine with other
ingredients and chill 8 hours.
3. Serve in chilled bowls garnished with a few handfuls of cilantro leaves. .
CHUNKY TOMATO AND BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Yields: 1 1/2 -2 cups
6 ripe tomatoes, peel, core, juice and seeds removed (see instructions)
2 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
2 Tblsp. Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 tsp. black peppercorns, coarsely ground*
¼ cup Gold Medal Balsamic Vinegar from Giuseppe Giusti*
2 Tblsp. extra virgin olive oil from Cassini*
2 tsp. (or to taste) fine Sel de Mer Sea Salt from Artisan*
1. Chop tomatoes very coarsely and place into a food processor. Blend 10 slightly
and add other ingredients. Taste for seasoning and pulse blend for a few
more seconds, do not over process as the dressing should be chunky.
Enjoy these recipes with the best summertime tomatoes available, but with an awareness of the origin complications that may be associated with the Salmonella outbreak.
Americans tend to think of tomatoes as a universal ingredient in Italian cuisine. Not true of course, and the use of tomatoes in Italian cuisine is usually defined by regional traditions. Grown in the hothouses of the European wealthy as an ornamental annual, tomatoes were first enjoyed as cuisine in Italy and the southern Mediterranean. The northern Europeans considered the fruit poisonous, probably because of its kinship with the deadly nightshade plant. The foliage of the tomato plant is toxic however. Tomatoes are members of the Solanaceae family which also include other benign relatives such as the eggplant and potato.
The recent outbreak of the bacterial infection Salmonella which was first associated with some tomatoes has been very disturbing to me. Although hot peppers may now be the culprit, it is now even more important to be absolutely sure of your source for fresh tomatoes and other produce. Local organic farmers in areas not associated with the outbreak are the safest providers, unless you are able to grow your own, which have the most succulent flavor anyway.
Serving temperature was a big concern to the legendary Julia Child. She called tomatoes “a persnickety being” in her book “The Way To Cook,” published by Alfred A. Knopf.
She goes on to declare, “The sad fact is that tomatoes are permanently traumatized if they remain for more than a few hours at temperatures lower than 55 degrees, whether in the field or in storage. Afterward, they may turn red, and their interstices may fill with jelly, but their flavor will never develop that real taste. When fully ripe, tomatoes still do not like a cold climate. Store them at 55 degrees (like wine) at cool room temperature, since they lose their flavor when refrigerated.”
Did You Know?
Tomato skins can be tough and juice and seeds can dilute the flavor in your recipes.
Avoid this problem by skinning, juicing and seeding your tomatoes by using these techniques.
Skinning: Dip tomatoes into a pan of boiling water for a couple of minutes and then plunge them into ice water. The skin will split and can be easily removed with the blade of a paring knife. Remove the core with the tip of the knife or a tomato shark.
Juicing and Seeding: To do this quickly and effectively, peel and core fresh tomatoes
(as explained previously) and cut into quarters. Over the sink or a bowl, hold the outside of each quarter against your palm and dig your fingers into the seed chamber and squeeze gently. The pulp is then ready for chopping or other preparation.
Did You Know?
Leeks are often very sandy and must be carefully cleaned before use. Remove wilted or yellowed leaves from stalks and slice leeks in half lengthwise. Then cut the leeks into ¼ inch thick pieces. Soak the pieces in a large bowl of cool water for 10 to 15 minutes, and then remove them carefully so as not to stir up the sand that has settled in the bottom of the bowl. Place the leek pieces in a colander and rinse very thoroughly. Allow them to drain for a few moments. Then pat dry with a paper towel or spin dry in a salad spinner. Cleaned, dry leeks may be chopped further, if desired.
(*Available at Avanti Savoia, www.avantisavoia.com)
TOMATO AND LEEK SAUCEYields: 6 Servings
12 large ripe tomatoes ( 7 cups finely chopped )
2 large stalks celery (2/3 cup chopped)
6 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
2 medium leeks (2 cups chopped)
2 Tblsp.extra virgin olive oil Fruttato Intenso by Marcinase*
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. thyme*
1 tsp. oregano*
1 tsp. fennel seeds*
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
2 tsp. (or to taste) Sel Gris sea salt*
Pinch sugar
1 cup dry red wine
½ cup chicken stock
Peel, juice, and seed tomatoes. ( see previous instructions ) Chop by hand or puree in food processor. Set aside.
Remove strings from celery and chop. Chop leeks and wash. ( see following leek info )
Heat Marcinase extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet and add garlic and leeks. Cook over a moderate heat 3 or 4 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add celery and cook 5 minutes more.
Add tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, oregano, fennel seeds, cayenne pepper, sea salt and sugar. Simmer for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Add wine and chicken stock. Cook 20 to 30 minutes more, check for seasoning and serve with pasta or as a sauce for seafood, chicken or veal.
OVEN ROASTED TOMATO GAZAPACHOYield: 8 Servings
6 large tomatoes, oven roasted with peels removed
4 bell peppers
4 cucumbers, peeled
2 stalks celery, strings removed
4 whole green onions
3 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
1 medium hot, pickled jalapeño
2 Tblsp. parsley, freshly chopped
1 tsp. oregano*
1 tsp. black peppercorns, coarsely ground*
1 Tblsp. sweet paprika*
1 tsp. (or more) Tabasco sauce
3 cups spicy tomato juice
Juice of ½ lime
Juice of ½ lemon
2 to 3 tsp. of fine Sel Gris salt from Artisan*
¼ cup Sherry Wine Vinegar *
2 Tblsp. extra virgin olive oil from Avanti Savoia*
½ cup bread crumbs (homemade if possible)
¼ cup whole cilantro leaves, stems removed (for garnish)
1. To Oven Roast Tomatoes: Heat oven to 500 degrees. Place washed tomatoes on
baking tray and broil under hot broiler for about 5 minutes until skin blackens
some what. Remove tray from oven, remove skins and stems and set aside.
2. Chop each vegetable by hand or in a food processor. Combine with other
ingredients and chill 8 hours.
3. Serve in chilled bowls garnished with a few handfuls of cilantro leaves. .
CHUNKY TOMATO AND BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Yields: 1 1/2 -2 cups
6 ripe tomatoes, peel, core, juice and seeds removed (see instructions)
2 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
2 Tblsp. Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 tsp. black peppercorns, coarsely ground*
¼ cup Gold Medal Balsamic Vinegar from Giuseppe Giusti*
2 Tblsp. extra virgin olive oil from Cassini*
2 tsp. (or to taste) fine Sel de Mer Sea Salt from Artisan*
1. Chop tomatoes very coarsely and place into a food processor. Blend 10 slightly
and add other ingredients. Taste for seasoning and pulse blend for a few
more seconds, do not over process as the dressing should be chunky.
Enjoy these recipes with the best summertime tomatoes available, but with an awareness of the origin complications that may be associated with the Salmonella outbreak.
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