Extra Virgin Olive Oil and What You Need to Know.

Traditions, Myths, Lies and Facts

Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years
The story of the cultivation of olive trees, their fruit and the oil pressed from the olives goes hand in hand with the story of Western civilization. Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years, although the earliest history of olive cultivation can vary with the source of your research. Did olive trees first appear in what is now Syria and then spread to the rest of the Mediterranean basin, or was it the other way around? It is thought that wild olives were collected by prehistoric peoples as early as 8,000 BC.

...source of great power, wealth and influence
We do know that this evergreen is one of the world’s oldest cultivated trees. Olives are a member of the family Oleaceae which includes flowering plants such as forsythia, lilacs and jasmines. To the Greeks it was far more than simply a food; although olives and olive oil were one of their main sources of dietary fat. The oil of the olive was also employed for body care, soap making, fuel for lamps and a host of other uses. Besides as part of their regular (and healthful) diet, olive oil was surrounded by an aura that was medicinal, mystical and even magical. It was the source of great power, wealth and influence.

…low in saturated fat and high unsaturated fat
Modern medicine is confirming many ancient attitudes towards olive oil with evidence of many health benefits that are to be had by including the oil in our diets. This is especially true with extra virgin olive oil because of the lack of processing. The benefits of olive oil are due partially to its high content of fatty acids and polyphenols, which are antioxidants. Olive oil is also low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fat. Studies suggest that consumption of olive oil may offer protection against heart disease, high blood pressure, rheumatoid arthritis and even some cancers. Olive oil is highly digestible and helps with the body’s assimilation of vitamins A, D and K.

…ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century!
Olive cultivation did spread from Greece to Italy and Spain and today these three countries lead in both production and consumption. Olive trees are an iconic and inherent part of the Italian landscape and olive oil is produced in all regions of Italy except Piedmont and Valle D’Aosta. Throughout the highly diversified climates of Italy’s different regions there are an estimated 2.5 million acres devoted to olive trees. Some of these are truly ancient specimens, being several hundred years old. In fact, some of our own producers have examples of those ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century! A very sad fact is that there is currently a serious problem with trafficking in old specimens of olive trees. Very sad because not only are the old trees dug up, stolen and removed to the properties of unscrupulous buyers, but also because many of the trees ultimately die from the trauma.

…producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil
Italy has hundreds of olive oil producers ranging from small farms to huge commercial operations. The very best oils come from small producers who have complete control over their orchard, the harvesting of the fruit, the pressing of the olives, and the storage and eventual bottling of the product. They create only a limited number of products from a specific harvest from a limited number of trees. They do not press olives for any other farmer or from any other region. Avanti Savoia’s preferred producer is a family-owned and operated farm. “Artisan” is a fair and accurate term with which to describe these unique producers. To be selected as an Avanti Savoia artisan, producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil and every aspect of its production. Often, the farm has been in the family for years, and in many cases, generations. The finest extra virgin olive oils are produced from olive trees that are cultivated without the use of pesticides and some are produced using entirely organic methods. Olive trees require a long, hot growing season and in the late winter or early spring (like grapes) proper pruning.

…the experience and judgment of the picker
Traditionally and ideally, the olives for extra virgin olive oil are picked by hand at a stage of ripeness that is half green and half red/brown. The olives must not be harvested by the calendar but rather by the experience and judgment of the picker. Each olive is hand selected at the exact moment it reaches the proper maturity to produce the highest quality of flavor and nutritional value.

Ripe olives are easily bruised...
Additionally, the press and the bottling facility must be readily available, ideally on the farm itself. Ripe olives are easily bruised and must be held in small containers before pressing in order to avoid being squeezed by their own weight and begin deterioration. A controlled environment with ultra sanitary conditions is paramount. The pressing process must be accomplished in the briefest time possible.

…all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed”
The best oils are pressed within a few hours, and certainly not to exceed 24 hours after the harvest, any delay beyond this time frame has a detrimental effect on the quality of the oil. The pressing to extract the oil must happen quickly and at a controlled temperature of (ideally) of less than 80 degrees F. This does constitute “cold pressed,” but this term is primarily a marketing device, as all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed.” The freshly pressed oil is filtered, stored in stainless steel containers and saturated with an inactive gas until bottling. The actual bottling of the oil must be in very dark green or brown bottles. Before the bottling a scientific check must be run to verify chemical and organic characteristics of the oil. Professional experts also are responsible for tasting the oils in order to evaluate the many flavor and sensory aspects.

Some …oils are blends and others are made with a single cultivar
As in the growing of grapes, climate, type of soil (terroir), variety of olive (cultivar) and the time of harvest account for the different organoleptic (flavor, bouquet and other sensory) properties of different oils. Some extra virgin olive oils are blends of several varieties and others are made with a single cultivar. Avanti Savoia markets olive oils made from blends (Montecroce, Pruneti, Colonna and Le Magnolie) and oils from only one cultivar (Marcinase from Coratina olives, Cassini from Taggiasca, and Geraci using Nocellara del Belice).

Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue…
Extra virgin olive oil and wine also share the same “enemies:” heat, oxygen and light. Olive oils have a relatively short shelf life and once the bottles are opened and exposed to oxygen, the oils will naturally begin to break down and lose both their organoleptic and nutritive properties. Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue, although older oils can still be excellent cooking oils. Storage after purchase is also important. If possible, extra virgin olives oils are best stored in a cool, dark place like a cabinet. Do not store or display your oil on or near your stove or on a window sill.

…a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity
The flavors of fine extra virgin olive oils can also be just as complex as in the nuances in fine wines. Generally this is considered to be a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity. Other sensations can run the gamut of flavors, again just like wine tasting; mild, intense, rich, delicate, full bodied, buttery, vegetal, nutty, floral, grassy and many other adjectives limited only by the taster’s sensitivity (and vocabulary)! Excellent extra virgin olive oil is neither bland nor neutral, although it is true that different oils are best suited to different culinary uses. Colors may range from green to golden to pale yellow, although color itself is not an indication of the oil’s overall quality. In fact, at official IOOC tastings, samples are served in dark colored glass so as not to influence the tasters.

Different standards for quality and flavors are set by several different organizations.

The European Community (EU):
Extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality and is considered to have the most perfect taste. In an organoleptic rating system of 10, it has a minimum rating of 6.5. This excellent extra virgin olive oil has very low acidity (1% or less), and is untreated.
Olive oil has a minimum organoleptic rating of 5.5 and a 2% maximum acidity and is also untreated.
All other olive oils involve production techniques that include treatments.

International Olive Oil Commission (IOOC)
The IOOC recognizes two categories; Olive Oil and Olive Pomice Oil. The Olive Pomice Oil is not fit for human consumption and so we will not delve into it here.
The IOOC requires that Olive Oil must not be adulterated with any other type of oil; further it must be obtained solely by mechanical means that do not alter the oil and pass tests for genuineness and purity. The IOOC divides Olive Oil into three types, although it is only the first two that really concern us.
Extra virgin olive oil is judged to have zero defects with less that 0.8 acidity. It is the highest rated.
Virgin olive oil is ranked slightly lower than Extra virgin with defects not over a specific level and less than 2% acidity.
There is a third rating, Ordinary virgin which is inferior oil used for industrial purposes and not even approved by the EU for bottling.

United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has an antiquated grading system and the US is not a member of the IOOC. Therefore the IOOC’s standards have no legal standing in the US, which means deception and fraud are unfortunate possibilities. Labeling descriptions and terms offer no guarantees either. Remember that “first pressed, cold pressed extra virgin olive oil” is simply a marketing term. All extra virgin olive oil is by definition the first pressed and it is processed cold. There is no second pressed extra virgin oil. Labels proclaiming to be 100% olive oils or “Pure” olive oils are often processed blends. “Light” blends refer to a lack of flavor not calories, as all olive oils contain the same 120 calories.

Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils
In the July 2008 issue of Cook’s Illustrated an article on olive oil states, “Is the supermarket the best place to buy your extra virgin olive oil? Unfortunately, we’d have to say no.” Authenticity can only be assured by purchasing from very reliable companies that have personal and authentic ties with the actual producers. Vito De Carolis is an Avanti Savoia Partner and our resident olive oil expert. Vito is a native of the city of Turin and extremely familiar with producers of fine Italian olive oils. For years Vito scouted the country for the best extra virgin olive oils for his own personal consumption and now he does the same for you. Vito has personally visited each of our producers during their harvest and observed their practices in great detail. This experience allows us to provide our customers with what we consider the “best of the best.” This also enables us to offer our products with 100% assurance of quality and authenticity.

“Caveat emptor”
In a now famous article a couple of years ago, The New Yorker alleged that because regulations can be so lax, fraud is rampant. This is especially true with bulk producers who adulterate their oil and take advantage of the possibilities of inaccurate labeling. A label can suggest that oil was bottled in Italy and is a product of Italy, but does not have to mention that the olives were not grown or the oil not produced in Italy. Remember “Caveat emptor,” let the buyer beware!

…olive oil “fanatics”
At Avanti Savoia, we are proud of our status as olive oil “fanatics.” We will continue to search Italy for this “culinary treasure” and go to great lengths to bring you the finest extra virgin olive oils at the very best price. Live long, love well and enjoy extra virgin olive oil.

Buon Appetito!

THE JOY OF JULIA

No question about it, it is a Julia Child summer. The day I’m posting this is (Aug. 13) exactly 5 years after her death at almost 92. America has rediscovered and fallen in love again with the culinary Demi-goddess. The book, the movie and just about every publication on the market right now has some “Julia” story to tell or some take on the phenomenon.

…not my first admiring commentary
In the face of such a barrage of “all things Julia,” I will also add my thoughts to the din, but will defend myself slightly by noting that this is not my first admiring commentary about the great lady. My first recorded statement concerning her was in the cookbook that I co-authored in 1980’s, not the current summer of ’09.

“Serve your mistakes…”
A Texas Family’s Cookbook was published way back in 1985 by Texas Monthly Press. In the preface, among other ramblings I wrote, “Due to such step-by-step books as Mastering the Art of French Cooking and to the work of other modern culinary pioneers, Americans began to embrace French cooking. We were able to attempt, successfully, beautiful French classics, and we learned not to be disheartened by failures. To paraphrase Julia’s attitude on her television show, she told us things like ‘Serve your mistakes-they’ll never know.’ This led to a vastly broadened appreciation of French cooking.”

…few assumptions and lots of explanations
Most French cookbooks of the time (before 1960), were written by French chefs in French, then translated into English, and assumed much expertise on the part of the reader. Then, in 1961 came the publication of volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. This book was a detailed approach to the art of cooking with few assumptions and lots of explanations. Also, it had beautiful illustrations by Julia’s husband, Paul Child. It was followed by a second volume of the same title and, in early 1963 by the famous “The French Chef “cooking show on Boston’s public television station.

TV cooking show as entertainment…
Every celebrity chef cooking show and personality today owes their existence to this seminal event. Long before the term “foodie” became a familiar part of our day to day conversations, Julia had sown the seeds. Absolutely and without question in my mind, Julia created the “TV cooking show as entertainment genre,” that we take for granted in today’s world. Even the less than sentimental Anthony Bourdain wrote…” the saintly Julia Child sought to raise expectations, to enlighten us – teach us – and in fact did…”

…her innate generosity
It was not just her cooking expertise, amazing confidence and colorful personality that has secured her place in the public’s imagination, even though those gifts should not be underestimated. Her talents were enormous, but it was another aspect of her character that made her more than the sum of her parts- her innate generosity.

…enthusiasm and encouragement
There were no “chef’s secrets” that Julia tried to conceal, no elitist celebrity distance that she sought to maintain. Her enthusiasm and encouragement to other aspiring chefs and authors is legendary.

…culinary “gospel”
As a young cook in the early 70’s seeing her shows had certainly been inspiring and fun. It was her books; however that were for me culinary “gospel.” I never considered cooking all the recipes in her books, but I knew friends who did or at least claimed that they did. Many times, I found myself consulting volume I or II of Mastering the Art of French Cooking for some dish or technique that I had claimed as part of my repertoire and was required to prepare professionally. More than once, I found myself up in the wee hours of the night perfecting a recipe, being guided step by step by Julia Child.

I was as excited as though I was meeting royalty…
I have never forgotten it either and always felt a great sense of personal connection with her, as did thousands of other fans and cooks. So, when the chance came to actually meet her in Seattle in the mid 80’s, I was as excited as though I was meeting royalty, a rock star or great entertainment figure, which in a very real sense, I was.

…the book had been well used.
My book had just been released and I wanted to present her with a copy. I didn’t imagine that it would be of any real use in her kitchen, but I did hope that she would be pleased by my thoughts expressed in the Preface about her contribution to American cooking. Of course, I took my old battered and food stained copy of Mastering the Art for her to sign, which she and husband Paul, graciously did. She also noted that the book had been well used. That signed copy remains one of my career treasures to this day.

…not even my own name.
Upon receiving the gift of my book to her, she politely asked that I sign it, as well. Just for the record this was one of the first times I had autographed the book, as it was newly published. I sat down and opened the book, took pen in hand and sat there. If I had made any mental notes about what I was going to write at that moment it was lost to me entirely. In a lifetime of food service and catering, I have certainly met my share of celebrities. This though was somehow different. I was star struck, I couldn’t think of a thing, maybe not even my own name.

…being from Texas and all
The Childs waited patently with the statuesque (6ft. 2) Julia towering above Paul and smiling at me. I think that after a few minutes (she must have had plenty of experience with this sort of thing) it dawned on her what my situation was. Then, in that distinctive and singular voice she came to my rescue, saying in a stage whisper, “You know Joseph being from Texas and all; you could sign your books with Bon Appetit Y’all!” With that suggestion she relieved me of the autographing angst and gave me a theme and a story to last the rest of my life. This is a story that I have told at the conclusion of my cooking classes, programs and demonstrations for many years and I always will.

Thank you Julia and Paul and Bon Appetit Y’all!

Pilgrimage to the Blue Ridge; a Promise Kept

“…Remembering speechlessly we seek the great forgotten language, the lost lane-end into heaven, a stone, a leaf, an unfound door.”
- Thomas Wolfe

I’m not a native son of the southern mountains although I am an enthusiastic adoptee. A huge part of the area’s attraction for me (and everyone else) is the magnificent mountains, ridges and foothills. In my younger (and slimmer) days, I seemed to find plenty of time to hike, camp, fly fish and generally spend quality recreational time in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, National Forests, state and county parks. Along the borders shared by Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina, there are some absolute paradises for outdoor enthusiasts.

“getting away”
Now, for the last 14 years or so, my wife, Gail and I have owned a few acres with some beautiful features. Sometimes, when we plan getaways and we have found ourselves noting that many of the enticements offered are already available to us. Privacy, quaint cottage, wood burning fireplace, babbling brook, and winding trail through the woods; really everything but a mountain view is literally in our own back yard. I have written about this before, but not for one minute do we forget that we are indeed blessed. Still, there is something about “getting away” and even just strolling a little in a beautiful setting.

...one of the last remaining virgin forests
Recently, upon a return trip from Atlanta, I found myself with an extra day in which to wander along some remote roads in northern Georgia and North Carolina. This included the magnificent Cherohala Skyway, which stretches some 40 miles from Tellico Plains, TN to Robbinsville, N.C. Near Robbinsville, one can find the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. A moderately strenuous walk will bring hikers to one of the last remaining virgin old-growth hard wood forests left in the southern mountains. These giant trees over 400 years old surely must inspire some kind of poetic descriptions in even the most un-literary of observers.

…the luxury of time
Many other trails and quite walkways abound and most have few visitors. Being as I had the luxury of time (which I rarely allow myself), I took advantage of the lovely weather and just walked. When described it sounds very simple; trees, birds, cascades of musical water; just quietly experienced. With that quietness, I found myself trying to remember the last time I had spent much time on a mountain trail, much less on one by myself. Ten years? However long it has been is way to long, and I solemnly promised myself that at least every couple of months that I would fit in a day or two in the wilderness, just to experience a little solitude.

…one of the most scenic roads in America
So, about 2 months later, I made good on that promise with a brief trip to Asheville, NC and a leisurely ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway. In the state of North Carolina alone, the Parkway includes 469 miles of almost indescribable beauty. The Blue Ridge Parkway meanders along the crests and ridges of the southern Appalachian Mountains through four National Forests. This gorgeous drive ranks as one of the most scenic roads in America.

“jet setters”
However, to begin my mini vacation, I made a quick excursion to Asheville, N.C., which is a vacation Mecca unto itself. Surrounded by the spectacular Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville is the largest city in western North Carolina. Downtown Asheville is home to more flashy Art Deco architecture than any other Southeastern city except perhaps Miami Beach. The city and Buncombe County have been appreciated as a peerless resort area since the 19th Century, when George W. Vanderbilt and friends made it a destination of the “jet setters” of his day.

…unimaginable world of wealth and luxury
Of course, no description of Asheville is complete without mentioning his Biltmore Estate, a 255-room mansion completed in 1895 and modeled after several 16th Century French chateaux (www.biltmore.com ). To describe the mansion, designed by architect Richard Morris Hunt, as “America’s National Treasure” is no overstatement. Self-guided tours take visitors through an almost unimaginable world of wealth and luxury. The vast Estate grounds are the result of the genius of landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmstead, whose other notable project was New York City’s Central Park. Also located on the 75 acre Estate is the Biltmore Estate Winery, Inn, gift shops and restaurants.

…Altamont
Asheville was the birthplace of one of the truly great figures of American literature, Thomas Wolfe. It is also the location of the Thomas Wolfe Memorial and one of his boyhood abodes, “The Old Kentucky Home.” This was a boarding house operated by Wolfe’s mother and known as “Dixieland” in Wolfe’s towering masterpiece, Look Homeward, Angel. The novel was first published in 1929 and has never been out of print. Asheville is called Altamont in the novel and Wolfe’s portrayal of the town’s residents was deeply resented at the time, although now that is all in the distant past.

…curious rituals
Indeed, the mountain town is bursting with possessive civic pride concerning all things Thomas Wolfe. Wolfe’s writing is not without its critics, but it was my admiration for the man’s work that drew me to Asheville on a kind of literary pilgrimage. I was drawn to curious rituals like touching his writing desk, rocking on the front porch of his home and reading his work sitting on a park bench near his grave. Did I think that a tiny fraction of inspiration might be transferred to my own modest efforts at blog writing?

…don’t laugh
No, don’t laugh; it was really not anything so grandiose or pretentious. I do think the experience held a deeper meaning for me that others have experienced and expressed so eloquently and forever beyond my skill. Pat Conroy, author of Prince of Tides, wrote “I kept catching myself holding my breath as I read Look Homeward, Angel. I had not recognized that the beauty of our language, shaped in sentences as pretty as blue herons, could bring me to my knees with pleasure-did not know that words could pour through me like honey through a burst hive or that gardens seeded in dark secrecy could bloom along the borders and porches of my half-ruined boyhood because a writer could touch me in all the broken places with his art.”

…suitable spot for dinner
It was in my post Thomas Wolfe reverie and musing that I began a search in downtown Asheville for a suitable spot for dinner. I had not made any reservations and had none of the culinary intent that so often accompanies my travels. My favorite spot for local Barbeque (North Carolina Barbeque vs. Texas is a whole different blog) was not open on Sundays. However, as exciting and creative a place as Asheville has become, there would certainly be something to rouse my interest, I reasoned.

…Zambra
Sure enough, just a half block off Broadway at 85 Walnut Street, I came across a small colorful sign advertising a Tapas and Wine Bar named Zambra, which according to their website is “Arabic for flute, a wild bird, Flamenco danced at a family gathering, a Moorish festival...” In a short time I found a convenient parking placed and entered the restaurant hoping for the best.

…the very definition of eclectic
The interior was cool and dimly lit with some pleasant yet unobtrusive jazz playing in the background. The décor is the very definition of eclectic with a mixture of exposed pipes, arches and other touches of Spain. I was seated in a small alcove with comfortably cushioned furniture complete with brocaded pillows. Although the setting was perfect for a romantic encounter, it also gave just enough privacy to not feel uncomfortable seated alone in the middle of a crowded dining room.

…pretty ambitious
The restaurant offers a Menu de la Noche as well as a separate list of specials. All in all, there were over 3 dozen listings of options, which I thought pretty ambitious for a small kitchen. They also presented a wine list with over 200 bottles, which has won several Awards of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine including the most recently announced awards.

…just as delicious as it was intriguing
I love to eat and prepare Tapas myself, so I was excited to get started with a glass of nutty Amontillado and study the menu. The Sopa del Dia, which was one of the chef’s daily creations, caught my eye. My well informed waitperson, Pamela Wellman offered me an encouraging description. The dish proved to be just as delicious as it was intriguing. What arrived was a chilled pear soup with a drizzle of ancho and maple glaze, topped with a dollop of whipped cream with walnuts. Pamela was quick to assert that regardless of the description, the soup was “not too sweet.” She was right and in fact I thought the combination was first rate and really a perfect match with the sherry.

…confidence
Now, I was in a convivial mood and the soup had established confidence in both the kitchen and my waitperson (which is always a good thing)! I thought that their House marinated Olives with Preserved Lemon was a logical choice and I particularly enjoyed it being served warm. My “small plate” entrée was Pan Roasted Veal Sweetbreads with Turnip Puree, Plums, Pea Shoots and Ancho Foam. The sweetbreads were delicate and tender and I was thoroughly pleased. For the novelty of it, I did indulge in Root Beer Flan for dessert and although interesting, I would still have to leave it in the “novelty” category.

…a gem worth discovering
Pamela, my waitperson confided in me her thoughts concerning the range of the kitchen’s creativity. Her view is that it stems from not only the skill of Chef Adam Bannasch, but also from his willingness and encouragement of the rest of his team to indulge their creative ideas as well. It works; Zambra is a gem worth discovering.

…mind boggling views
Continuing north of Asheville, the grandeur of the Blue Ridge continues uninterrupted for many miles. The mind boggling views alone are worth the trouble, but there are dozens of interesting diversions, as well. Art and craft enthusiasts will enjoy the Folk Art Center at Milepost 382. The striking facility houses exhibits, demonstrations, workshops, special events and a craft shop.

…highest point east of the Mississippi
Many of the scenic overlooks along the way have access to primitive trails and there are many improved sites with visitor’s centers, as well. One high point (literally) is Mount Mitchell State Park, which is the highest point east of the Mississippi and ideal for an easy walk to the lookout tower and a great picnic spot. Further along the Parkway is Linville Falls, which includes not only the dramatic falls themselves, but a moderate 1.6 round-trip to view them. Cool, beautiful weather and the chance to see the blooming rhododendrons made my promise to do more hiking an easy one to keep.

…Yadkin valley wineries…another promise to keep
This mountain road does seem to go on forever, but my journey ended up in the little village of Blowing Rock, NC. This is a very picturesque place with interesting shops, restaurants, festivals and loads of charm. It is also the gateway to the Yadkin Valley Appellation. The Yadkin Valley is North Carolina’s first federally recognized American Viticultural Area with 24 wineries and several hundred acres devoted to grape growing (www.visitncwine.com). However, it was obvious to me this trip was at its end. The considerable allure of the wineries would have to wait until another time, perhaps when my wife would be able to enjoy the wine tasting with me, as well. As much as I enjoyed my couple of days of hiking and solitude, I did note how often I thought of her and the fun we would have on the next trip sharing my new discoveries and delights. Now, there is yet another promise to keep.

RAZZEL DAZZEL BERRIES

The harvest depends on the amount of rain, sunshine and attendant humidity. Not all years are the same, but each summer we anticipate some kind of a crop of wild raspberries (Rubus strigosus). Wild Raspberries are native all across North America, but are also related to the Eurasian variety (Rubus idaeus). Indeed, all raspberries and blackberries are members of the rose family (Rosaceae). Technically, they are not even berries, but rather “an aggregate fruit of numerous drupelets around a central core.” There are red and black raspberries, which both have hollow centers. True blackberries have solid centers.

Experience has shown us that the period between Independence Day on the 4th of July and Bastille Day on the 14th of July is the primo season for picking these luscious little jewels. Our particular source for raspberries is the tangles of brambles that seem to grow in just about every corner of our little farm, as well as along the fence rows in our neighbor’s fields. These are definitely wild berries as we have never planted or even tended them. In a good year we can harvest a gallon or two a day; even more with a little help from our friends. Often, we have hosted a “berry pickin’ party” on July 4th. Friends and family equipped with harvest baskets fan out along the creek, fence rows and sunny banks of our property.

Fairly quickly the pickers find their rhythm and favorite techniques for the harvest. One begins to recognize the “just right” color and appearance of the perfectly ripe berry. If they are not ripe enough, they are a little harder to pluck, not to mention a tarter taste. Too ripe and they fall apart as you pick them, but when just right, they roll gently into your hand and then into your basket or mouth.

Part of the fun and pleasure is grazing on the choicest berries as you fill your basket! The only drawbacks are the sharp thorns on the canes and the fact that wild raspberries and Poison Ivy (genus Toxicodendron) seems to always grow in the same places. One always needs to beware of snakes when sticking your hand into shady thickets where the choicest berries seem to be. Not that this has ever been a problem for us. In fact, in 14 summers of picking we have never encountered even one of the slithering critters.

Naturally, this hot and steamy work requires sustenance and libations. Smoking or grilling our dinner is usually part of the fun, but the raspberries always take center stage. In previous years, we have celebrated with Raspberry Margaritas and Raspberry Daiquiris. This year however, we concocted a pitcher of Raspberry Lemonade that could be enjoyed just as it was or enhanced with a shot of Tito’s Vodka (a favorite spirit of ours that is produced in Austin, Texas.)

We also enjoy a Kir Royale or more precisely, a Kir Imperial. A Kir Royale is a glass of champagne or sparkling wine with a splash of Crème de Cassis, whereas a Kir Imperial is sparkling wine doused with a raspberry Liqueur. Whichever drink we choose, we enjoy adding a few ripe raspberries to the glass. If you need to ease your conscience a little while indulging in these delights, then you can take comfort in the fact that raspberries contain high levels of antioxidants, Vitamin C and other nutrients. (Feel better)?

Although tarts, cobblers, crème brulees and clafoutis are also terrific, my personal favorite is a simple bowl of ripe berries, a little sweetening and a splash of cream. Also, chocolate and raspberries are natural partners. I love a good chocolate torte with a rich ganache icing topped with fresh raspberries. Looks good, tastes great, but the berries will go bad or even moldy if not eaten quickly. A very simple, true gourmet extravaganza can be created by drizzling plain ripe berries with a little balsamic vinegar.

Raspberries are highly perishable and very fragile. They do freeze well however, either whole or pureed and strained. They can then be used at your convenience to prepare jams, jellies, drinks, sauces, ice cream, sorbets, granitas, desserts, etc. etc. Whether made with the fresh harvest or from frozen puree, my wife Gail’s jellies are a treat we enjoy year round and are always highly appreciated as a gift. A nice, hearty breakfast in the dead of winter is particularly comforting with hot biscuits and a generous serving of last summer’s wild raspberry jelly.

GAIL’S WILD RASPBERRY JELLY

INGREDIENTS
5 cups (approximately) ripe wild raspberries (fresh or frozen)
One 1.75 ounce Package of Sure Jell Fruit Pectin
½ teaspoon unsalted butter
5 ½ cups sugar

INSTRUCTIONS
(1) Crush and puree berries in a blender. Strain out seeds. This should result in about 4 cups of raspberry puree.
(2) In a large pan, combine Sure Jell with puree and bring to a boil.
(3) Add ½ teaspoon butter to prevent foaming
(4) Boil for a few minutes and add 5 ½ cups sugar. Return to a hard boil and turn off heat. A tablespoon or so of brandy can be added at this point if desired.
(5) Sterilize six 1 pint canning jars and fill with hot jelly. Cover tightly with lids and rings and turn upside down for a couple of hours. You should hear a “popping” sound as each jar seals.


Visit our new Avanti Savoia Recipes and Cooking section and check out these recipes using berries.
Blackberry or Raspberry Consommé
Raspberry Sauce (Coulis)
Blackberry or Raspberry Mousse
Raspberry Ice Cream
Raspberry Crème Brulee
Chocolate Raspberry Loaf Cake

SUPER DUPER DAD’S DAY SPECIAL

June 21st
It is also time to be thinking about the next popular celebration on the horizon, Father’s Day. The first recorded observation of an American Father’s Day occurred on June 19, 1910. But it was left to then President Richard Nixon to establish our permanent observation of Father’s Day on the 3rd Sunday in June.

Those… that… contributed to the quality of our lives
We think that it is a great idea to acknowledge not only our Fathers, but also those Father figures that mentored us and contributed to the quality of our lives. This is easy enough to do with a simple greeting or the ubiquitous humorous card. Father’s day present giving offers opportunities, both simple and complex.

Gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages
Certainly, gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages and the family’s different stages.
Mangled breakfast in bed and crayon scrawled cards are just fine for young families. Teens probably will focus on gifts pertaining to Dad’s sporting interests and hobbies (like cooking, for instance). However as Dads age and find themselves in the categories of Grand Dads or even Great grand Dads, I think it is fair to note that the game plan can change.

I hate breakfast in bed
I know that in truth, I hate breakfast in bed and I darn sure don’t want more things to clutter up my house and require some kind of care. Cards are just fine, thank you, but the kinds of gifts that I really enjoy now are items that I can consume or immediately use. Like many guys, when I want a new tool or toy, I just go out and buy it. This being said, gift cards at home improvement centers, hardware store or specialty stores are gifts that I really enjoy and will use. (Also, very easy for the giver)!

A first rate dinner for the big guy
Even though eating any food in bed is not my cup of tea, having someone cook for me definitely rings my chimes. This Father’s Day at Avanti Savoia, we thought we would assemble a reasonably priced collection of our products that would make it very easy to “stir up” a first rate dinner for the big guy. Here are a few ideas and Avanti products that could be appropriate for any aged giver or receiver. Preparing our menu is very “kid friendly” and as viable for a beginning family as it is for a romantic occasion for empty nesters. Check this out.

AN AVANTI SAVOIA FATHER’S DAY MENU

Starter: Our savory Onion Cracker (Le Schiacciatine Cipolla) spread with a little goat cheese (Chevre) or cream cheese and topped with our Low Country Garlic Pepper Jelly.

Main: Savoia Egg Fettuccine, (delicious and fast cooking) served with Low Country Tomato Sauce, sautéed Italian sausage and finished with a little shaved Parmesan Reggiano.

Dessert: Creamy Chocolate Brownies using our brand new product, Alchemy Spice Brownie Mix. Add to that a steaming cup of high quality 100% Certified Bolivian or Mexican Coffee from another of our new suppliers, Café Femenino. This is a unique coffee company that benefits women coffee producers. Your purchase helps enable these producers “achieve empowerment, build social and support networks while earning incomes.”

You can get this recipe along with our products from our recipe section. Go to Recipe

Everybody wins
Everybody wins and all that you have to supply from your grocery store is the Chevre or cream cheese, Italian sausage, Parmesan, 1 stick of butter and 2 eggs. Our Super –Duper Dad’s day Special includes all the rest. Our very best Avanti Savoia wishes for a super- duper Father’s Day!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US

Great Quality and Value for You!

Old school personal service
Avanti Savoia is celebrating our third Anniversary and we invite you to join the party. A good party it has been too, but it is only going to get better. Avanti Savoia is (and will continue to be) about authentic quality and old school personal service. From the beginning we have always been passionate about our company. We hope this passion comes through in our personal enthusiasm for our great products. “If we won’t put it on our table, we’ll never ask you to put it on yours.” We are also deeply committed to bring to your table the value and savings that are so absolutely essential in our present economy.

The most competitive prices
We love being your gourmet internet market, but we want to be more. By offering fantastic savings on fantastic products, we are striving to be your everyday online source for true culinary gems. It is our goal to provide carefully selected products that reflect the highest quality with the most competitive prices on the internet or even at your neighborhood grocery store. “Providing Affordable Luxury” is not just an empty marketing ploy. It is a real expression of our philosophy and our mission.

Something exciting about just walking in our door
Working in the office and warehouse of Avanti Savoia often brings to mind images of the old spice and trade caravans. The atmosphere is rich with the aroma of truffles, herbs, spices, coffees and a subtle mélange of dozens of other delights. There is something exciting about just walking in our door.

Samples
Beside the expected examples of modern communication technology, stacks of notes, cookbooks and other reference material, our desks and office tables always seem to have “samples.” Truly samples of “Culinary Treasures from Around the World.”

What exotic flavors will a new day bring?
The tasting of a potential new product is a fun and educational experience for us all at Avanti. Who knows what exotic flavors a new day will bring? It might be a new honey from Hawaii or an excellent coffee from a regional roaster. Maybe it will be a rich new chocolate from a supplier in Europe or South America.

Not quite as formal as a wine tasting
Although our regular tastings are not quite as formal as a wine tasting, they do share some similar techniques. We all silently nibble or sip the particular product to be tasted, ponder it a bit and then each of us express our opinions. More often than not we are in complete agreement, but always learning from the other’s perceptions. It always takes a strong consensus of approval for a new product to be added to the Avanti Savoia “family.”

Restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy
We’ve told the story of our Avanti family before, but it still remains a good story. Avanti Savoia’s founding partners, Doug Slocum and Vito De Carolis have known each other for almost 20 years. First, as associates in the global stone industry, then as good friends visiting and sampling unique specialties at restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy.

Impressive knowledge
Doug became intrigued with “all these marvelous foods and tastes that just weren’t available here.” He says, “the idea came that we would start a business bringing very high-quality gourmet, limited-edition type foods to the US as an internet company.” Turin native, Vito De Carolis was “a natural partner” with his extensive experience traveling the world and his impressive knowledge of cooking and food.

“Serendipity”
Armed with a new MBA, Doug’s son Ben Slocum became president of our company. His expertise in business matters and the world of cyber space is vital to the daily operations of Avanti Savoia. Ben also has had a golden opportunity to develop a world class palate that is certainly unique in the world of business. A chance meeting introduced the trio to me, Joseph Lowery. Doug calls it “serendipity,” I call it an ideal job for an experienced chef that loves to taste, cook, write (and express opinions).

As much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible
Avanti Savoia is striving to provide you with as much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible through Our Blog, Don Vito’s Forum, and two new useful features on our website. Visit our Recipes and Cooking Section for an amazing collection of hundreds of recipes that continues to grow daily. Our customers and readers can even post instructions for their own favorite dishes. We are also proud of our new feature entitled Health and Nutrition, with informative articles written by our own Registered Dietitian, Merry Thomas M.S. R.D. L.D.

Convenient … to combat hunger
We are also well aware that all pantries are not as well stocked as ours. We address this problem by providing a page entitled, Feed the Hungry. This is a feature that makes it convenient when placing an order, to also be able to make a donation locally, nationally or globally to combat hunger.

Passion
Avanti Savoia: passion for authentic quality, personal service, information, education and value and savings.

Thanks for coming to our party!

THEY’RE BAAACK!

A true gourmet’s delight!

…the forest floor reveals nothing unusual and then…
Every spring we watch the woods for the signs. About the time that the young ferns begin to unfurl and the wood anemones start to bloom, we know that it is time to start looking for the morels. It is always along our creek under a stand of Tulip Poplars that we hope to find them. At first, the forest floor revels nothing unusual and then we find the first one, then the second and as our eyes become more accustomed to looking for them, the easier they are to spot.

“shroom hunting”
This is our second year to be able to share this bounty with Avanti Savoia’s owners, Doug and Ben Slocum. It is becoming a tradition for Ben and I to go “shroom hunting” each April and a tradition that I hope will last a long time. This season Doug actually found his own morels on his property to his obvious delight. He did however; bring them to me for a positive ID.

Being as we shared a post last year with you about morels, we decided to reprint it in part.

“Dry land fish”
Commonly known as the Morel mushrooms, they are also known locally as “dry land fish” and can occur throughout North America. The old-timers were well aware of them and prepared them usually by rolling them in cornmeal and frying them in hot fat. The black morels, Morchella elata seem to be the most available, although we are blessed to be able to find the yellow or white morel, sometimes called the “Honeycomb Morel.” These little gems can grow to be much larger than black morels and are astoundingly succulent.

…springtime ritual…
They can be stuffed and baked, fried, grilled, and cooked a la crème, in sauces, flans, ragouts, omelets and as garnishes in a good many European classics. Although, available dried or canned, it is in their freshest state, prepared simply that we enjoy them the most. This is a true gourmet’s delight, freshly harvested wild morels! We prize this springtime ritual so much, that although choice fresh morels can fetch around $50 a pound this year, we only share them with friends and eat them ourselves.

…the best harvest ever…
Some years produce a generous morel harvest while others do not- it all depends on the amount of rain, when it rains, early spring temperatures, ground temperatures and probably other subtle conditions of which I’m not even aware. I can however, report on how much fun it is to hunt for them and how very delicious they can be. The ‘07 harvest was a bit scarce and ’08 was a good season, but this year (’09) has been the best harvest ever. I have heard “through the grapevine” that other mushroom hunters are experiencing abundant harvests, as well.

“You must be 100% sure of identification”
I also came across a world of useful information on the internet, especially a site entitled
www.thegreatmorel.com – This particular site has the most useful information that I’ve seen so far. They have a comprehensive collection of recipes. Not only lots of mushroom lore, but also identification hints and very clear information about the “false” morel (Gyromitra esculenta, Verpa, Hellvella and Discoiotis) which can be toxic. The false morels only vaguely resemble true morels, but we must insert a word of caution here before sharing a few easy recipes. I have been hunting selected wild mushrooms for over 35 years. I have received instruction from botany teachers from two different universities and field experience with a number of knowledgeable amateurs. I particularly remember the opening words from a retired University of Washington Professor. “Hunting wild mushrooms is a one hundred percent activity. You must be 100% sure of identification, a 99% guess can kill you,” he solemnly warned. Take this to heart! You must be very sure of your harvest! Do not attempt to identify wild mushrooms from a guide book. “Hands on” training is required. That having been said, here are some ideas for preparing fresh morels.

Cleaning:
Cut off the “foot” of the mushroom just above the dirt line. Slice the mushroom lengthwise, lightly rinse and soak them in a solution of salt water for about 1 hour or less. This should remove any bits of sand or soil and dislodge any little critters. Make sure that after removing from the salt water that the morels are well dried before cooking. Some mushroom lovers prefer to forego the soaking, as they feel it takes away from the true mushroom flavor, but I still think that soaking is a good idea.
Grilled:
This is as easy as it gets and fabulous with a nice steak. Again, carefully dry the split morels and brush with one of Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils that have been seasoned with a little minced garlic, salt and pepper. Of course you can jazz it up with herbs, lemon juice, etc., etc., but do not cover up the marvelous fresh mushroom flavor.
Place the seasoned morels over hot coals and cook until they are just lightly marked. Do not overcook these babies and eat ‘em while their hot!
Beer Batter Fried:
Here is a basic recipe for Misto Fritto, classic Italian mixed fried vegetables. It also works great with any kind of mushroom. Also, if you are lucky enough to have fresh squash or pumpkin blossoms from a summer garden, this is also the way to cook them.

Ingredients for batter:
4 eggs, beaten
1/3 cup beer
2 cups all-purpose flour

About 3 cups oil* #19999 Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Oil for frying
Sel de Mer* #35021 (fine sea salt) to taste

Recipe:
1. In a large bowl, beat together the eggs and beer.
2. Place the flour in a large bowl right next to the eggs/beer.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until very hot.
4. Flour the morel pieces, shake off any excess, and dip into the egg mixture.
5. Shake off excess egg and begin frying a few at a time turning as needed to lightly brown. Remove with a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper salt, if desired and enjoy.

Sautéed Morel Sandwiches:
Clean morels as for other recipes. Simply sauté the mushrooms in the hot oil or butter, turning until tender. Place on a paper towel to drain and make a sandwich using toasted whole wheat bread, mustard flavored mayonnaise, fried bacon, and slices of fresh tomato.

NOTE: We usually serve morels with beer or a dry Riesling and have never experience a problem. However some mushroom guides do however warn of upset stomachs when morels are served with alcohol. Proceed with caution!