Pilgrimage to the Blue Ridge; a Promise Kept

“…Remembering speechlessly we seek the great forgotten language, the lost lane-end into heaven, a stone, a leaf, an unfound door.”
- Thomas Wolfe

I’m not a native son of the southern mountains although I am an enthusiastic adoptee. A huge part of the area’s attraction for me (and everyone else) is the magnificent mountains, ridges and foothills. In my younger (and slimmer) days, I seemed to find plenty of time to hike, camp, fly fish and generally spend quality recreational time in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, National Forests, state and county parks. Along the borders shared by Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina, there are some absolute paradises for outdoor enthusiasts.

“getting away”
Now, for the last 14 years or so, my wife, Gail and I have owned a few acres with some beautiful features. Sometimes, when we plan getaways and we have found ourselves noting that many of the enticements offered are already available to us. Privacy, quaint cottage, wood burning fireplace, babbling brook, and winding trail through the woods; really everything but a mountain view is literally in our own back yard. I have written about this before, but not for one minute do we forget that we are indeed blessed. Still, there is something about “getting away” and even just strolling a little in a beautiful setting.

...one of the last remaining virgin forests
Recently, upon a return trip from Atlanta, I found myself with an extra day in which to wander along some remote roads in northern Georgia and North Carolina. This included the magnificent Cherohala Skyway, which stretches some 40 miles from Tellico Plains, TN to Robbinsville, N.C. Near Robbinsville, one can find the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. A moderately strenuous walk will bring hikers to one of the last remaining virgin old-growth hard wood forests left in the southern mountains. These giant trees over 400 years old surely must inspire some kind of poetic descriptions in even the most un-literary of observers.

…the luxury of time
Many other trails and quite walkways abound and most have few visitors. Being as I had the luxury of time (which I rarely allow myself), I took advantage of the lovely weather and just walked. When described it sounds very simple; trees, birds, cascades of musical water; just quietly experienced. With that quietness, I found myself trying to remember the last time I had spent much time on a mountain trail, much less on one by myself. Ten years? However long it has been is way to long, and I solemnly promised myself that at least every couple of months that I would fit in a day or two in the wilderness, just to experience a little solitude.

…one of the most scenic roads in America
So, about 2 months later, I made good on that promise with a brief trip to Asheville, NC and a leisurely ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway. In the state of North Carolina alone, the Parkway includes 469 miles of almost indescribable beauty. The Blue Ridge Parkway meanders along the crests and ridges of the southern Appalachian Mountains through four National Forests. This gorgeous drive ranks as one of the most scenic roads in America.

“jet setters”
However, to begin my mini vacation, I made a quick excursion to Asheville, N.C., which is a vacation Mecca unto itself. Surrounded by the spectacular Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville is the largest city in western North Carolina. Downtown Asheville is home to more flashy Art Deco architecture than any other Southeastern city except perhaps Miami Beach. The city and Buncombe County have been appreciated as a peerless resort area since the 19th Century, when George W. Vanderbilt and friends made it a destination of the “jet setters” of his day.

…unimaginable world of wealth and luxury
Of course, no description of Asheville is complete without mentioning his Biltmore Estate, a 255-room mansion completed in 1895 and modeled after several 16th Century French chateaux (www.biltmore.com ). To describe the mansion, designed by architect Richard Morris Hunt, as “America’s National Treasure” is no overstatement. Self-guided tours take visitors through an almost unimaginable world of wealth and luxury. The vast Estate grounds are the result of the genius of landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmstead, whose other notable project was New York City’s Central Park. Also located on the 75 acre Estate is the Biltmore Estate Winery, Inn, gift shops and restaurants.

…Altamont
Asheville was the birthplace of one of the truly great figures of American literature, Thomas Wolfe. It is also the location of the Thomas Wolfe Memorial and one of his boyhood abodes, “The Old Kentucky Home.” This was a boarding house operated by Wolfe’s mother and known as “Dixieland” in Wolfe’s towering masterpiece, Look Homeward, Angel. The novel was first published in 1929 and has never been out of print. Asheville is called Altamont in the novel and Wolfe’s portrayal of the town’s residents was deeply resented at the time, although now that is all in the distant past.

…curious rituals
Indeed, the mountain town is bursting with possessive civic pride concerning all things Thomas Wolfe. Wolfe’s writing is not without its critics, but it was my admiration for the man’s work that drew me to Asheville on a kind of literary pilgrimage. I was drawn to curious rituals like touching his writing desk, rocking on the front porch of his home and reading his work sitting on a park bench near his grave. Did I think that a tiny fraction of inspiration might be transferred to my own modest efforts at blog writing?

…don’t laugh
No, don’t laugh; it was really not anything so grandiose or pretentious. I do think the experience held a deeper meaning for me that others have experienced and expressed so eloquently and forever beyond my skill. Pat Conroy, author of Prince of Tides, wrote “I kept catching myself holding my breath as I read Look Homeward, Angel. I had not recognized that the beauty of our language, shaped in sentences as pretty as blue herons, could bring me to my knees with pleasure-did not know that words could pour through me like honey through a burst hive or that gardens seeded in dark secrecy could bloom along the borders and porches of my half-ruined boyhood because a writer could touch me in all the broken places with his art.”

…suitable spot for dinner
It was in my post Thomas Wolfe reverie and musing that I began a search in downtown Asheville for a suitable spot for dinner. I had not made any reservations and had none of the culinary intent that so often accompanies my travels. My favorite spot for local Barbeque (North Carolina Barbeque vs. Texas is a whole different blog) was not open on Sundays. However, as exciting and creative a place as Asheville has become, there would certainly be something to rouse my interest, I reasoned.

…Zambra
Sure enough, just a half block off Broadway at 85 Walnut Street, I came across a small colorful sign advertising a Tapas and Wine Bar named Zambra, which according to their website is “Arabic for flute, a wild bird, Flamenco danced at a family gathering, a Moorish festival...” In a short time I found a convenient parking placed and entered the restaurant hoping for the best.

…the very definition of eclectic
The interior was cool and dimly lit with some pleasant yet unobtrusive jazz playing in the background. The décor is the very definition of eclectic with a mixture of exposed pipes, arches and other touches of Spain. I was seated in a small alcove with comfortably cushioned furniture complete with brocaded pillows. Although the setting was perfect for a romantic encounter, it also gave just enough privacy to not feel uncomfortable seated alone in the middle of a crowded dining room.

…pretty ambitious
The restaurant offers a Menu de la Noche as well as a separate list of specials. All in all, there were over 3 dozen listings of options, which I thought pretty ambitious for a small kitchen. They also presented a wine list with over 200 bottles, which has won several Awards of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine including the most recently announced awards.

…just as delicious as it was intriguing
I love to eat and prepare Tapas myself, so I was excited to get started with a glass of nutty Amontillado and study the menu. The Sopa del Dia, which was one of the chef’s daily creations, caught my eye. My well informed waitperson, Pamela Wellman offered me an encouraging description. The dish proved to be just as delicious as it was intriguing. What arrived was a chilled pear soup with a drizzle of ancho and maple glaze, topped with a dollop of whipped cream with walnuts. Pamela was quick to assert that regardless of the description, the soup was “not too sweet.” She was right and in fact I thought the combination was first rate and really a perfect match with the sherry.

…confidence
Now, I was in a convivial mood and the soup had established confidence in both the kitchen and my waitperson (which is always a good thing)! I thought that their House marinated Olives with Preserved Lemon was a logical choice and I particularly enjoyed it being served warm. My “small plate” entrée was Pan Roasted Veal Sweetbreads with Turnip Puree, Plums, Pea Shoots and Ancho Foam. The sweetbreads were delicate and tender and I was thoroughly pleased. For the novelty of it, I did indulge in Root Beer Flan for dessert and although interesting, I would still have to leave it in the “novelty” category.

…a gem worth discovering
Pamela, my waitperson confided in me her thoughts concerning the range of the kitchen’s creativity. Her view is that it stems from not only the skill of Chef Adam Bannasch, but also from his willingness and encouragement of the rest of his team to indulge their creative ideas as well. It works; Zambra is a gem worth discovering.

…mind boggling views
Continuing north of Asheville, the grandeur of the Blue Ridge continues uninterrupted for many miles. The mind boggling views alone are worth the trouble, but there are dozens of interesting diversions, as well. Art and craft enthusiasts will enjoy the Folk Art Center at Milepost 382. The striking facility houses exhibits, demonstrations, workshops, special events and a craft shop.

…highest point east of the Mississippi
Many of the scenic overlooks along the way have access to primitive trails and there are many improved sites with visitor’s centers, as well. One high point (literally) is Mount Mitchell State Park, which is the highest point east of the Mississippi and ideal for an easy walk to the lookout tower and a great picnic spot. Further along the Parkway is Linville Falls, which includes not only the dramatic falls themselves, but a moderate 1.6 round-trip to view them. Cool, beautiful weather and the chance to see the blooming rhododendrons made my promise to do more hiking an easy one to keep.

…Yadkin valley wineries…another promise to keep
This mountain road does seem to go on forever, but my journey ended up in the little village of Blowing Rock, NC. This is a very picturesque place with interesting shops, restaurants, festivals and loads of charm. It is also the gateway to the Yadkin Valley Appellation. The Yadkin Valley is North Carolina’s first federally recognized American Viticultural Area with 24 wineries and several hundred acres devoted to grape growing (www.visitncwine.com). However, it was obvious to me this trip was at its end. The considerable allure of the wineries would have to wait until another time, perhaps when my wife would be able to enjoy the wine tasting with me, as well. As much as I enjoyed my couple of days of hiking and solitude, I did note how often I thought of her and the fun we would have on the next trip sharing my new discoveries and delights. Now, there is yet another promise to keep.

RAZZEL DAZZEL BERRIES

The harvest depends on the amount of rain, sunshine and attendant humidity. Not all years are the same, but each summer we anticipate some kind of a crop of wild raspberries (Rubus strigosus). Wild Raspberries are native all across North America, but are also related to the Eurasian variety (Rubus idaeus). Indeed, all raspberries and blackberries are members of the rose family (Rosaceae). Technically, they are not even berries, but rather “an aggregate fruit of numerous drupelets around a central core.” There are red and black raspberries, which both have hollow centers. True blackberries have solid centers.

Experience has shown us that the period between Independence Day on the 4th of July and Bastille Day on the 14th of July is the primo season for picking these luscious little jewels. Our particular source for raspberries is the tangles of brambles that seem to grow in just about every corner of our little farm, as well as along the fence rows in our neighbor’s fields. These are definitely wild berries as we have never planted or even tended them. In a good year we can harvest a gallon or two a day; even more with a little help from our friends. Often, we have hosted a “berry pickin’ party” on July 4th. Friends and family equipped with harvest baskets fan out along the creek, fence rows and sunny banks of our property.

Fairly quickly the pickers find their rhythm and favorite techniques for the harvest. One begins to recognize the “just right” color and appearance of the perfectly ripe berry. If they are not ripe enough, they are a little harder to pluck, not to mention a tarter taste. Too ripe and they fall apart as you pick them, but when just right, they roll gently into your hand and then into your basket or mouth.

Part of the fun and pleasure is grazing on the choicest berries as you fill your basket! The only drawbacks are the sharp thorns on the canes and the fact that wild raspberries and Poison Ivy (genus Toxicodendron) seems to always grow in the same places. One always needs to beware of snakes when sticking your hand into shady thickets where the choicest berries seem to be. Not that this has ever been a problem for us. In fact, in 14 summers of picking we have never encountered even one of the slithering critters.

Naturally, this hot and steamy work requires sustenance and libations. Smoking or grilling our dinner is usually part of the fun, but the raspberries always take center stage. In previous years, we have celebrated with Raspberry Margaritas and Raspberry Daiquiris. This year however, we concocted a pitcher of Raspberry Lemonade that could be enjoyed just as it was or enhanced with a shot of Tito’s Vodka (a favorite spirit of ours that is produced in Austin, Texas.)

We also enjoy a Kir Royale or more precisely, a Kir Imperial. A Kir Royale is a glass of champagne or sparkling wine with a splash of Crème de Cassis, whereas a Kir Imperial is sparkling wine doused with a raspberry Liqueur. Whichever drink we choose, we enjoy adding a few ripe raspberries to the glass. If you need to ease your conscience a little while indulging in these delights, then you can take comfort in the fact that raspberries contain high levels of antioxidants, Vitamin C and other nutrients. (Feel better)?

Although tarts, cobblers, crème brulees and clafoutis are also terrific, my personal favorite is a simple bowl of ripe berries, a little sweetening and a splash of cream. Also, chocolate and raspberries are natural partners. I love a good chocolate torte with a rich ganache icing topped with fresh raspberries. Looks good, tastes great, but the berries will go bad or even moldy if not eaten quickly. A very simple, true gourmet extravaganza can be created by drizzling plain ripe berries with a little balsamic vinegar.

Raspberries are highly perishable and very fragile. They do freeze well however, either whole or pureed and strained. They can then be used at your convenience to prepare jams, jellies, drinks, sauces, ice cream, sorbets, granitas, desserts, etc. etc. Whether made with the fresh harvest or from frozen puree, my wife Gail’s jellies are a treat we enjoy year round and are always highly appreciated as a gift. A nice, hearty breakfast in the dead of winter is particularly comforting with hot biscuits and a generous serving of last summer’s wild raspberry jelly.

GAIL’S WILD RASPBERRY JELLY

INGREDIENTS
5 cups (approximately) ripe wild raspberries (fresh or frozen)
One 1.75 ounce Package of Sure Jell Fruit Pectin
½ teaspoon unsalted butter
5 ½ cups sugar

INSTRUCTIONS
(1) Crush and puree berries in a blender. Strain out seeds. This should result in about 4 cups of raspberry puree.
(2) In a large pan, combine Sure Jell with puree and bring to a boil.
(3) Add ½ teaspoon butter to prevent foaming
(4) Boil for a few minutes and add 5 ½ cups sugar. Return to a hard boil and turn off heat. A tablespoon or so of brandy can be added at this point if desired.
(5) Sterilize six 1 pint canning jars and fill with hot jelly. Cover tightly with lids and rings and turn upside down for a couple of hours. You should hear a “popping” sound as each jar seals.


Visit our new Avanti Savoia Recipes and Cooking section and check out these recipes using berries.
Blackberry or Raspberry Consommé
Raspberry Sauce (Coulis)
Blackberry or Raspberry Mousse
Raspberry Ice Cream
Raspberry Crème Brulee
Chocolate Raspberry Loaf Cake

SUPER DUPER DAD’S DAY SPECIAL

June 21st
It is also time to be thinking about the next popular celebration on the horizon, Father’s Day. The first recorded observation of an American Father’s Day occurred on June 19, 1910. But it was left to then President Richard Nixon to establish our permanent observation of Father’s Day on the 3rd Sunday in June.

Those… that… contributed to the quality of our lives
We think that it is a great idea to acknowledge not only our Fathers, but also those Father figures that mentored us and contributed to the quality of our lives. This is easy enough to do with a simple greeting or the ubiquitous humorous card. Father’s day present giving offers opportunities, both simple and complex.

Gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages
Certainly, gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages and the family’s different stages.
Mangled breakfast in bed and crayon scrawled cards are just fine for young families. Teens probably will focus on gifts pertaining to Dad’s sporting interests and hobbies (like cooking, for instance). However as Dads age and find themselves in the categories of Grand Dads or even Great grand Dads, I think it is fair to note that the game plan can change.

I hate breakfast in bed
I know that in truth, I hate breakfast in bed and I darn sure don’t want more things to clutter up my house and require some kind of care. Cards are just fine, thank you, but the kinds of gifts that I really enjoy now are items that I can consume or immediately use. Like many guys, when I want a new tool or toy, I just go out and buy it. This being said, gift cards at home improvement centers, hardware store or specialty stores are gifts that I really enjoy and will use. (Also, very easy for the giver)!

A first rate dinner for the big guy
Even though eating any food in bed is not my cup of tea, having someone cook for me definitely rings my chimes. This Father’s Day at Avanti Savoia, we thought we would assemble a reasonably priced collection of our products that would make it very easy to “stir up” a first rate dinner for the big guy. Here are a few ideas and Avanti products that could be appropriate for any aged giver or receiver. Preparing our menu is very “kid friendly” and as viable for a beginning family as it is for a romantic occasion for empty nesters. Check this out.

AN AVANTI SAVOIA FATHER’S DAY MENU

Starter: Our savory Onion Cracker (Le Schiacciatine Cipolla) spread with a little goat cheese (Chevre) or cream cheese and topped with our Low Country Garlic Pepper Jelly.

Main: Savoia Egg Fettuccine, (delicious and fast cooking) served with Low Country Tomato Sauce, sautéed Italian sausage and finished with a little shaved Parmesan Reggiano.

Dessert: Creamy Chocolate Brownies using our brand new product, Alchemy Spice Brownie Mix. Add to that a steaming cup of high quality 100% Certified Bolivian or Mexican Coffee from another of our new suppliers, Café Femenino. This is a unique coffee company that benefits women coffee producers. Your purchase helps enable these producers “achieve empowerment, build social and support networks while earning incomes.”

You can get this recipe along with our products from our recipe section. Go to Recipe

Everybody wins
Everybody wins and all that you have to supply from your grocery store is the Chevre or cream cheese, Italian sausage, Parmesan, 1 stick of butter and 2 eggs. Our Super –Duper Dad’s day Special includes all the rest. Our very best Avanti Savoia wishes for a super- duper Father’s Day!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US

Great Quality and Value for You!

Old school personal service
Avanti Savoia is celebrating our third Anniversary and we invite you to join the party. A good party it has been too, but it is only going to get better. Avanti Savoia is (and will continue to be) about authentic quality and old school personal service. From the beginning we have always been passionate about our company. We hope this passion comes through in our personal enthusiasm for our great products. “If we won’t put it on our table, we’ll never ask you to put it on yours.” We are also deeply committed to bring to your table the value and savings that are so absolutely essential in our present economy.

The most competitive prices
We love being your gourmet internet market, but we want to be more. By offering fantastic savings on fantastic products, we are striving to be your everyday online source for true culinary gems. It is our goal to provide carefully selected products that reflect the highest quality with the most competitive prices on the internet or even at your neighborhood grocery store. “Providing Affordable Luxury” is not just an empty marketing ploy. It is a real expression of our philosophy and our mission.

Something exciting about just walking in our door
Working in the office and warehouse of Avanti Savoia often brings to mind images of the old spice and trade caravans. The atmosphere is rich with the aroma of truffles, herbs, spices, coffees and a subtle mélange of dozens of other delights. There is something exciting about just walking in our door.

Samples
Beside the expected examples of modern communication technology, stacks of notes, cookbooks and other reference material, our desks and office tables always seem to have “samples.” Truly samples of “Culinary Treasures from Around the World.”

What exotic flavors will a new day bring?
The tasting of a potential new product is a fun and educational experience for us all at Avanti. Who knows what exotic flavors a new day will bring? It might be a new honey from Hawaii or an excellent coffee from a regional roaster. Maybe it will be a rich new chocolate from a supplier in Europe or South America.

Not quite as formal as a wine tasting
Although our regular tastings are not quite as formal as a wine tasting, they do share some similar techniques. We all silently nibble or sip the particular product to be tasted, ponder it a bit and then each of us express our opinions. More often than not we are in complete agreement, but always learning from the other’s perceptions. It always takes a strong consensus of approval for a new product to be added to the Avanti Savoia “family.”

Restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy
We’ve told the story of our Avanti family before, but it still remains a good story. Avanti Savoia’s founding partners, Doug Slocum and Vito De Carolis have known each other for almost 20 years. First, as associates in the global stone industry, then as good friends visiting and sampling unique specialties at restaurants, wineries, farms and markets all across Italy.

Impressive knowledge
Doug became intrigued with “all these marvelous foods and tastes that just weren’t available here.” He says, “the idea came that we would start a business bringing very high-quality gourmet, limited-edition type foods to the US as an internet company.” Turin native, Vito De Carolis was “a natural partner” with his extensive experience traveling the world and his impressive knowledge of cooking and food.

“Serendipity”
Armed with a new MBA, Doug’s son Ben Slocum became president of our company. His expertise in business matters and the world of cyber space is vital to the daily operations of Avanti Savoia. Ben also has had a golden opportunity to develop a world class palate that is certainly unique in the world of business. A chance meeting introduced the trio to me, Joseph Lowery. Doug calls it “serendipity,” I call it an ideal job for an experienced chef that loves to taste, cook, write (and express opinions).

As much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible
Avanti Savoia is striving to provide you with as much culinary, nutritional and life style information as possible through Our Blog, Don Vito’s Forum, and two new useful features on our website. Visit our Recipes and Cooking Section for an amazing collection of hundreds of recipes that continues to grow daily. Our customers and readers can even post instructions for their own favorite dishes. We are also proud of our new feature entitled Health and Nutrition, with informative articles written by our own Registered Dietitian, Merry Thomas M.S. R.D. L.D.

Convenient … to combat hunger
We are also well aware that all pantries are not as well stocked as ours. We address this problem by providing a page entitled, Feed the Hungry. This is a feature that makes it convenient when placing an order, to also be able to make a donation locally, nationally or globally to combat hunger.

Passion
Avanti Savoia: passion for authentic quality, personal service, information, education and value and savings.

Thanks for coming to our party!

THEY’RE BAAACK!

A true gourmet’s delight!

…the forest floor reveals nothing unusual and then…
Every spring we watch the woods for the signs. About the time that the young ferns begin to unfurl and the wood anemones start to bloom, we know that it is time to start looking for the morels. It is always along our creek under a stand of Tulip Poplars that we hope to find them. At first, the forest floor revels nothing unusual and then we find the first one, then the second and as our eyes become more accustomed to looking for them, the easier they are to spot.

“shroom hunting”
This is our second year to be able to share this bounty with Avanti Savoia’s owners, Doug and Ben Slocum. It is becoming a tradition for Ben and I to go “shroom hunting” each April and a tradition that I hope will last a long time. This season Doug actually found his own morels on his property to his obvious delight. He did however; bring them to me for a positive ID.

Being as we shared a post last year with you about morels, we decided to reprint it in part.

“Dry land fish”
Commonly known as the Morel mushrooms, they are also known locally as “dry land fish” and can occur throughout North America. The old-timers were well aware of them and prepared them usually by rolling them in cornmeal and frying them in hot fat. The black morels, Morchella elata seem to be the most available, although we are blessed to be able to find the yellow or white morel, sometimes called the “Honeycomb Morel.” These little gems can grow to be much larger than black morels and are astoundingly succulent.

…springtime ritual…
They can be stuffed and baked, fried, grilled, and cooked a la crème, in sauces, flans, ragouts, omelets and as garnishes in a good many European classics. Although, available dried or canned, it is in their freshest state, prepared simply that we enjoy them the most. This is a true gourmet’s delight, freshly harvested wild morels! We prize this springtime ritual so much, that although choice fresh morels can fetch around $50 a pound this year, we only share them with friends and eat them ourselves.

…the best harvest ever…
Some years produce a generous morel harvest while others do not- it all depends on the amount of rain, when it rains, early spring temperatures, ground temperatures and probably other subtle conditions of which I’m not even aware. I can however, report on how much fun it is to hunt for them and how very delicious they can be. The ‘07 harvest was a bit scarce and ’08 was a good season, but this year (’09) has been the best harvest ever. I have heard “through the grapevine” that other mushroom hunters are experiencing abundant harvests, as well.

“You must be 100% sure of identification”
I also came across a world of useful information on the internet, especially a site entitled
www.thegreatmorel.com – This particular site has the most useful information that I’ve seen so far. They have a comprehensive collection of recipes. Not only lots of mushroom lore, but also identification hints and very clear information about the “false” morel (Gyromitra esculenta, Verpa, Hellvella and Discoiotis) which can be toxic. The false morels only vaguely resemble true morels, but we must insert a word of caution here before sharing a few easy recipes. I have been hunting selected wild mushrooms for over 35 years. I have received instruction from botany teachers from two different universities and field experience with a number of knowledgeable amateurs. I particularly remember the opening words from a retired University of Washington Professor. “Hunting wild mushrooms is a one hundred percent activity. You must be 100% sure of identification, a 99% guess can kill you,” he solemnly warned. Take this to heart! You must be very sure of your harvest! Do not attempt to identify wild mushrooms from a guide book. “Hands on” training is required. That having been said, here are some ideas for preparing fresh morels.

Cleaning:
Cut off the “foot” of the mushroom just above the dirt line. Slice the mushroom lengthwise, lightly rinse and soak them in a solution of salt water for about 1 hour or less. This should remove any bits of sand or soil and dislodge any little critters. Make sure that after removing from the salt water that the morels are well dried before cooking. Some mushroom lovers prefer to forego the soaking, as they feel it takes away from the true mushroom flavor, but I still think that soaking is a good idea.
Grilled:
This is as easy as it gets and fabulous with a nice steak. Again, carefully dry the split morels and brush with one of Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils that have been seasoned with a little minced garlic, salt and pepper. Of course you can jazz it up with herbs, lemon juice, etc., etc., but do not cover up the marvelous fresh mushroom flavor.
Place the seasoned morels over hot coals and cook until they are just lightly marked. Do not overcook these babies and eat ‘em while their hot!
Beer Batter Fried:
Here is a basic recipe for Misto Fritto, classic Italian mixed fried vegetables. It also works great with any kind of mushroom. Also, if you are lucky enough to have fresh squash or pumpkin blossoms from a summer garden, this is also the way to cook them.

Ingredients for batter:
4 eggs, beaten
1/3 cup beer
2 cups all-purpose flour

About 3 cups oil* #19999 Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Oil for frying
Sel de Mer* #35021 (fine sea salt) to taste

Recipe:
1. In a large bowl, beat together the eggs and beer.
2. Place the flour in a large bowl right next to the eggs/beer.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until very hot.
4. Flour the morel pieces, shake off any excess, and dip into the egg mixture.
5. Shake off excess egg and begin frying a few at a time turning as needed to lightly brown. Remove with a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper salt, if desired and enjoy.

Sautéed Morel Sandwiches:
Clean morels as for other recipes. Simply sauté the mushrooms in the hot oil or butter, turning until tender. Place on a paper towel to drain and make a sandwich using toasted whole wheat bread, mustard flavored mayonnaise, fried bacon, and slices of fresh tomato.

NOTE: We usually serve morels with beer or a dry Riesling and have never experience a problem. However some mushroom guides do however warn of upset stomachs when morels are served with alcohol. Proceed with caution!

A VINEGAR PRIMER

Ancient indeed is the history of vinegar. Over the centuries, vinegars have been employed for culinary, health, body care and even cleaning purposes. We derive our word vinegar from the French “Vin Aigre” meaning sour wine, although all vinegars are not necessarily made from wine. Most are made from some fermented product with the exception being the famed balsamic vinegars.

…understand the difference…
To understand the difference between vinegars in general and balsamic vinegars specifically, it is helpful to know a few facts.

…on the market today
The more readily available vinegars on the market today include:

Distilled White Vinegar- usually made from distilled grain alcohol, it is sharply acidic, sour and unpleasant. Although commonly used in pickle making, its harsh flavor is not recommended in cooking.

Apple Cider Vinegar- produced from fermented apple cider has a mild apple flavor and is appropriate to use where a low acidity is desired.

Malt or Beer Vinegar- like beer, ale and scotch, this vinegar is made from malted barley and is a favorite in Britain, traditionally served with Fish and Chips.

Berry and Fruit Vinegars- are sweet, mild and delicate… delicious with fruit dishes and in salad dressings.

Herb Vinegar- is actually selected vinegar that has been infused with an herb or an assortment of herbs. Probably the best known is Tarragon Vinegar, often used to make Béarnaise sauce.

Honey Vinegar- historically speaking this is the most ancient of vinegars dating back to the Egyptians. In addition to the purported healthful properties, this vinegar is known for its very complex aroma. It is used in cooking and sometimes, beverages. Check out ours!

Rice Vinegar- is common ingredient in Chinese, Japanese and other Asian cuisines. Very low acidity makes this vinegar one of the mildest of all varieties.

Wine Vinegar- made with red wine, Sherry, white wine or Champagne, the flavor profiles can range from potent and pungent to light and mild. These are familiar ingredients in Vinaigrettes and many other cooking uses. Check out our selection!
… “rock star” status
Balsamic Vinegars- The unique and noble “Gold Standard” of Italy produced in the regions of Modena and Reggio Emilia. It has only been during the last three decades that American cooks have discovered balsamic vinegar and elevated it to “rock star” status in the culinary world.

… “liquid gold”…
In Italy, balsamic vinegar has been prized for centuries. In medieval times, it was valued for its healing properties and at one time was even believed to be a cure for the plague. For a thousand years, wealthy Italian families have produced balsamic vinegar for their own use, but it has only been available commercially for the last 40 years or so. Fine aged balsamic vinegars were considered treasured family heirlooms, often as part of a bride’s dowry. Considered “liquid gold,” small kegs of balsamic vinegar could be slowly consumed or even sold if economic conditions warranted. On special occasions, royalty and only the most fortunate guests might receive balsamic vinegar as a gift.

…no traditional balsamic vinegar ever really starts from “scratch”…
To produce fine balsamic vinegar, the must which is unfermented juice from whole grapes (usually Trebbiano and/or Lambrusco) including the skins, seeds and stems is cooked and reduced to dark syrup. This syrup is then placed in a barrel containing a small amount of an earlier batch of balsamic vinegar and then aged in a progression of smaller and smaller wooden barrels or kegs. When vinegar is drawn from the smallest and oldest of the lot, this barrel is topped up with vinegar drawn from the next smallest and so forth until the largest barrel receives the new batch of the cooked must. None of the barrels or casks is ever fully emptied. So, there is no such thing as a vintage because no traditional balsamic vinegar ever really starts from “scratch.” These barrels are usually made from oak, chestnut, cherry wood, ash, mulberry, acacia and juniper, with each wood adding its own character and nuances. The collection of these barrels is referred to as a “batteria.”

New barrels
In Reggio Emilia, new barrels must first be certified by the Consorzio fra Produttori di Aceto Balsamico Tradizione di Reggio Emilia. This is also the group that is responsible for the evaluation and classification of the vinegars themselves. Upon approval, the barrels are branded with a special seal and then seasoned through a process that can take two years. Old Balsamico barrels are highly treasured and revered.

…prized and priced…
The batteria of barrels is stored in maturation rooms in attics to benefit from hot summers and cold winters, which allow for the different stages of development. Holes in the tops of the barrels are covered with cotton cloths and tiles of porous stones. As the vinegar ages it naturally reduces by evaporation through the barrels, which in turn thickens and concentrates the flavor and increases complexity. The longer the vinegar ages, the more highly it is prized and priced.

…evaluating and certifying…
When evaluating and certifying the quality of “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar) the tasters of the consortium are responding primarily to the taste, balance and other characteristics, not the age. However, age classifications for marketing purposes do exist and are divided into the following categories starting with the oldest and grandest.

“Extra Vecchio” (extra old) Balsamico is 25 year old Traditional Balsamic produced in Modena. “Oro” (Gold Label) Traditional Balsamic is the corresponding product from Reggio Emilia.

“Invecchio” (old) Balsamic is 18 year Traditional Balsamic from Modena, while in Reggio Emilia it is known as “Argento” (Silver Label).
“Affinato” is the 12 year Traditional Balsamic of Modena and the Reggio Emilia version is the “Aragosta” (Red/Orange/Salmon Label).

Condimentos
“Balsamico Condimento” (Condiment) Strictly speaking, these vinegars are not authentic Traditional Balsamic Vinegar and cannot be labeled as such. However, some of the best producers choose to sell their products that cannot pass the Consortium regulations as “Condimento.” Although they employ similar techniques, the various products in the market place have different characteristics regarding acidity, density, color and overall quality. “Condimentos” are not as complex or “deep” as Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, but can still taste quite good. This having been said, there are some fine vinegars at reasonable prices among this style.

BUYER BEWARE
“Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), these are various vinegars that have only one thing in common- their name. Currently, anyone anywhere can legally produce Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. They can range from very sweet to pungent and savory. The better quality (and more expensive) are aged at least three years while the “cheapies” are aged only a few months in stainless steel tanks and artificially sweetened and thickened. These vinegars far outsell the real thing and can be good for everyday use. BUYER BEWARE… there is plenty of fake balsamic vinegar on the market. “Aceto Balsamico di Modena” (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena), is not the same as “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar)

Generic Balsamic Vinegar The traditional methods are used to make these vinegars, but they are produced using must grown in the areas where they are produced- (outside the regions of Modena or Reggio Emilia).

“Balsamela” (Country Style Apple Balsamic) “Balsamela” is a highly appreciated vinegar utilizing traditional techniques but using Vignola apples instead of grapes.

White Balsamic Vinegar Although the product is made in Modena, the difference is in the color, taste and production process. The must is prepared first by pressure cooking and then aging for 1 year in uncharred barrels. In the cooking process caramelization is avoided and the aging technique keeps the vinegar lighter in color and flavor, making it an excellent accompaniment to fish. Check out ours!

…balance…
The key to any well made vinegar is balance. All vinegars will display an expected acidity of course, but it should be an acidity that is balance with the fruit and other flavors. Tasting the most famous vinegar in the world, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, is not unlike tasting wine. The difference being that you only taste a small amount of balsamic vinegar not drinking an entire glass. In fact traditionally, this legendary vinegar is tasted by pouring a drop on the back of the hand and then tasting directly. Tasting from small spoons works just fine, as well. Good balsamic vinegar should be a rich, dark brown, syrupy like substance with a distinctly complex, acid fragrance. The flavor should be sweet and sour in perfect proportion. On the palate it should be full, round and luxurious with a variety of nuances.

A Few recipes using vinegars:

Béarnaise Sauce (made with tarragon vinegar)
The French chef that taught me to make Béarnaise insisted on using clarified butter for all emulsified sauces; however the New Orleans influenced chefs of the gulf coast preferred to use whole butter. I like the whole butter version better and it’s quicker to prepare. Do not use an aluminum pan when making this recipe.
Yields about 6 servings

2 Tablespoons shallots, minced
½ cup tarragon vinegar
½ cup dry white wine
2 Tablespoons dried tarragon
2 Tablespoons dried chervil or parsley
3 egg yolks
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, melted
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground white pepper
Salt to taste

(1) Combine minced shallots, tarragon vinegar, wine, tarragon and chervil or parsley.
(2) Bring to simmer in a small saucepan and reduce liquid to a little less than 1/3 cup.
(3) Remove saucepan from heat and allow to cool.
(4) Separate eggs and place yolks in a round stainless steel bowl. Reserve whites for another purpose.
(5) Strain cooked herb mixture from the saucepan, reserving herbs, and add liquid to egg yolks and whisk well.
(6) Select a pan a little wider in diameter than the bowl with the egg yolks in it so that the bowl can spin freely. Fill pan with about an inch of water and bring the water to a gentle simmer. Do not bring to a boil.
(7) Place bowl of egg yolks and reduction liquid into the pan of simmering water, rotating bowl quickly and whipping yolks briskly with a wire whisk.
(8) Slowly at first, dribble in a few drops of the melted butter, whisking constantly. As the sauce emulsifies, continue to add the remaining butter, a little at a time, until all the sauce has thickened. The stainless steel bowl may have to be removed and then returned to the heat several times while the butter is being added to maintain the proper consistency.
(9) Add a heaping tablespoon of the reserved shallots/herb mixture and the pinches of cayenne, nutmeg and white pepper. Add salt to taste.
(10) If necessary, the sauce may be thinned by beating in a little warm water. Enjoy Béarnaise sauce with roast beef and just about anything off the grill. Serve warm but do not try to reheat as it will brake and curdle.


Braised Asparagus Tips with Raspberry Vinegar
Serves 6

4 cups asparagus tips (about 2 inches long)
3 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons chicken stock or water
¼ cup raspberry vinegar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more)
1 teaspoon salt or to taste

(1) Slice the top 2 inches off the asparagus spears and save stalks for a soup.
(2) Melt butter in a large sauté pan.
(3) Add asparagus tips and stir a bit. Cook over a medium heat 3 minutes.
(4) Add stock or water, raspberry vinegar, red pepper flakes and salt.
(5) Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring occasionally. About the time the liquid has cooked off, the asparagus should be ready. Serve immediately.


Pickled Peaches (made with apple cider vinegar)
A perfect match with Southern Fried Chicken
Yields 4 quarts

12 – 14 small ripe, unblemished peaches (figs work well too)
About 3 dozen whole cloves (3 per peach)
2 cups light brown sugar
3 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup water
4 cinnamon sticks
1 Tablespoon whole allspice

(1) Parboil peaches 3 to 4 minutes and dip into cold water to quickly remove skins, but do not cut the peach or remove stones.
(2) Stud each peach with 3 whole cloves. Set aside.
(3) In a large stainless steel or enameled pan, combine brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, water, cinnamon sticks and allspice. Cover and bring to a low boil.
(4) Add peaches 3 or 4 at a time, and simmer together for 10 minutes.
(5) Allow peaches to stand in liquid 4 to 6 hours.
(6) Spoon peaches into hot, sterilized wide-mouth jars.
(7) Bring remaining syrup to boil. Place 1 stick of the cinnamon into each jar and cover with hot syrup including a few allspice, leaving a little space at the top of each jar.
(8) Place seals and lids on immediately. Allow to settle and cool. Pickled peaches should age at least 1 month.

STILTON Salad Dressing

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Yields about 1 cup


Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
¼ cup dry white wine
2 oz. stilton blue cheese
3 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
2 shallots, minced
⅛ tsp. white truffle salt
⅛ tsp. freshly ground black peppercorn

In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Toss with salad greens



Poached pears with white Balsamic vinegar

Preparation time: 45 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients:

½ cup sugar
1 cup water
4 large Bosc pears, halved peeled and cored
1 cup fresh ricotta cheese
¼ cup almond, toasted and coarsely chopped
4 Tbsp with balsamic vinegar


Recipe:

1.) Preheat oven at 350°F.

2.) Combine sugar and water in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil and cook few minutes to make syrup.

3.) Place pears in shallow ovenproof dish, and pour syrup over them. Cover with foil, and bake until tender, about 20 - 25 minutes.

4.) Remove from oven, and cool until just warm.

5.) Place 2 pear halves on each of four plates with a dollop of fresh ricotta and a sprinkle with almonds. Spoon any syrup remaining in pan over and around the pears. Drizzle 1 Tbsp of white balsamic vinegar over each portion, and serve.


Balsamic Vinegar Reductions
Cooking with an Extra Vecchio, Invecchio or even Traditional Balsamic is like making a wine sauce with fine vintage Bordeaux. Its not that it wouldn’t taste good, but it would be wasteful because other far less expensive wines would work just as well.
It is possible to convert an inexpensive balsamic into a rich syrup by the process of reduction. Use only stainless steel or enameled pans for the reducing process to avoid reactions with the acid in the vinegar. Over a very low heat cook the vinegar slowly until the liquid is reduced by 1/2 to 2/3 of the original. Heating and reducing will increase the sweetness and reduce the acidity, although a little brown sugar can also be added for a more sweetness, if desired. The resulting syrup can be used as is on fresh fruit, roasted vegetables, cheeses, pastries, desserts, pancakes or even ice cream. Restaurant chefs even used balsamic reductions as a garnish to decorate plates.

A quick and spectacular pan reduction sauce will go really well with chicken breasts, lamb chops, game, pork, or beef medallions. Rub the pieces of meat with your choice of seasoning (salt, pepper, thyme, tarragon, rosemary, etc.). Heat about two tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the meat on both sides until it reaches desired doneness. Remove cooked meat and reserve on a warm platter until you finish making the sauce.

To finish and serve: Mince 2 or 3 shallots and sauté gently in the same pan in which you cooked the meat. When shallots are translucent (do not scorch or they will turn bitter), deglaze pan by adding ¼ cup balsamic vinegar and ¾ cup meat stock; reduce to about 1/3 cup, remove from heat and whisk in 2 Tablespoons of butter until smooth. Pour onto meat and serve, garnished with a sprig of a fresh herb. Rich, smooth, sweet, tangy…amazing!

THE APPEAL AND UMBRAGE OF ANTHONY BOURDAIN

As I made my way out of the crowded balcony of the theater, I heard the voice of The Knoxville News Sentinel Food Writer, Mary Constantine. “Hey chef, did you have fun?” she asked. The question caught me somewhat off guard, but after a moment’s hesitation, I answered “well yes, I guess I did.”

Her query referred to the 90 minutes or so that we had just spent listening to the phenomena that is Anthony Bourdain. I was at the time, already sorting through my diverse reactions (and crafting this post) about the man and his message.

In writing about this, I am determined to try to avoid some of the clichés that are so often used to describe Chef Bourdain. “Bad boy of cuisine”, “anti-celebrity chef”, “outspoken”, “rants and raves”…I would really like to come up with my own descriptions and honest reactions. Let’s see how I do.

First of all, we can start with “honest” …yes, I thought he was honest, even if I did not always appreciate the way he expressed himself. He was honest in a way that I swear reminded me of the poetry of Allen Ginsburg, read in person by the author. I was fortunate enough to have been able to spend a little time around Allen in the 70’s and that was my word for him, honest… sometimes embarrassing and uncomfortable, sometimes inspiring, but definitely his own truth.

I did not walk into the theater a “big fan” of Bourdain, but not particularly antagonistic either. I was curious and intended to make up my own mind about the guy. I knew a bit about him through his shows and reputation. I have also read just one of his books, which I thought was weird, but fascinating in kind of a guilty, voyeuristic way.

The stage was bare except for a drawn curtain and the wooden podium that the chef utterly avoided. Bourdain entered the stage to enthusiastic applause from the mostly packed house. I realized as I took in the crowd, that the younger generation of restaurant cooks and workers (with tattoos, piercing, and other fashion statements) were well represented. Later, as I listened to the question and answer segment, I noted the deference with which many addressed the chef. He is clearly a hero (notice, I resisted using anti-hero) to many of the millennial generation and maturing members of generation “y”- and I see why, I think.

What I gather is that Chef Bourdain is not necessarily critical of the classic lions of the modern culinary world, but is really truthful about the hard realities of working in a modern restaurant kitchen. He was also really truthful about the character flaws of many of us associated with this profession. However, I think he reserves his most genuine contempt for the modern “celebrity” chef and the media star making machine that creates them. To his credit, he also recognizes that his success is based on the same media.

As I have reached a little deeper into his statements regarding some of these celebrities, I see that he can be very contemptuous of the content of their shows but still respectful and even good friends with many of them. (Not all, of course)- I’m not sure how he could be more disgusted with the work of Sandra Lee or The Food Network in general. I am very glad however to have found one of his statements concerning a personal culinary hero of mine, Julia Child. The chef writes …” the saintly Julia Child sought to raise expectations, to enlighten us—teach us – and in fact, did…”

He proclaimed that he did not consider his career as a working chef to have been particularly distinguished, but now he has the “best job” in the world. He calls himself an “old school French chef”, a description that I like a lot, of course. I’m not quite sure his opinions about New American and Fusion Cuisine, but I’m guessing it depends on whether or not it was well prepared. Other examples of his opinions were very unambiguous. Bourdain calls the popular program Hell’s Kitchen (which I loathe) “a circus of cruelty”.

He certainly has a lot of freedom to do what he wants and says what he thinks in whatever colorful language that suits him. He is indeed noted for his profanity and the fact is that his language was a little hard for one of the members of our group that attended the event together. She is a very elegant and cultured lady in her eighties and it was certainly a little rough for her. It was quite clear to me however, that his loyal fan based loved it- based on their wild cheers after each expletive.

In the darkened theater it was impossible to take any notes and it was probably not necessary anyway, because a good deal of his presentation can be found on line, in his books, blog etc., etc. –this not a criticism, but actually rather convenient for anyone wishing to write about him or at least his opinions.

For a man whose reputation is totally entwined with judgments and criticism, I was surprised to note that some of my first impressions of him were of his open mindedness. I really admire his appreciation of the everyday people of the world, their kitchens and their real food and customs. His advice about not eating in restaurants frequented by tourist Americans while traveling in foreign countries was well taken.

I enthusiastically agreed with his attitude toward trying new foods, pushing personal limitations and honestly examining cultural prejudices. My wife and I have been appalled by some of the comments that have been made by some acquaintances returning from Cancun. Such as –“we didn’t even have to change our money into pesos or we stayed right at our hotel and ate all the time at the golden arches where everyone spoke English” … we find ourselves thinking “why did you even bother going to Mexico in the first place?”

I still wouldn’t describe myself as a “big fan” exactly, but I think Anthony Bourdain is a very healthy development in our “foodie” culture. He confronts issues that need to be addressed and stimulates valuable discussion and debate. In the several days since Mr. Bourdain’s appearance, I’ve given the man and his work a good deal of thought, and you know what I did have fun –a lot of fun!