Wednesday, December 22, 2010

HOLIDAY MEMORIES

When the Season Tugs on Your Heartstrings

There is a difference between the kind of nostalgia that brings a quiet smile to your face and the slippery slope of teary sentimentality.  This is the time of the year when celebrating traditions can be really happy for some and rather dark and sad for others.

Recently, as my wife and I unpacked our fabulous stash of Christmas decorations, I was reminded just how real the emotions associated with the trappings of the season can be.  These items range from almost 70 year old handmade lace tablecloths created by my grandmother and my mother’s wedding crystal to little ornaments identified with family and friends. Of course, many of these folks are long since gone or at least all grown up which in some ways is the same thing.

I think that there is a definite line between particular memories that one keeps private in one’s heart (happy or sad) and certain stories and experiences that deserve to be shared again and again.  I believe my Christmas Pudding story is firmly in the category of deserving to be shared.

The characters and events depicted in Charles Dickens, “A Christmas Carol” are a familiar iconic image in our culture.  Almost everyone is familiar with the Mr. Scrooge, Tiny Tim, the Christmas ghosts and of course Mrs. Cratchit serving the Christmas pudding.  However, there are not many Americans that know what Christmas Plum Pudding really is and even fewer that have eaten one, much less made one.

This lack of appreciation was part of my motivation recently to offer a cooking class at La Cucina at Avanti Savoia entitled Classy Holiday Desserts.  The menu included A French Yule Log Cake or Buche de Noel and a traditional English Plum Pudding.  We prepared puddings from scratch for the class and then served two that were ready to be steamed, flambéed and served.

The response from all the attendees was enthusiastic and appreciative, but none more so than that of the author of one of our favorite food blogs, The Food Hound.  Read her latest post about our class and the connection to Charles Dickens himself. We heartily encourage you to follow this fun blog and we promise that you won’t be disappointed.  This lady really knows her stuff.

“There is nothing in the world so irresistibly contagious as laughter and good humor.”  Keep Smiling and Merry Christmas!
Cedric Charles Dickens, December 1987

Friday, December 10, 2010

CRAVING CHOCOLATE

… And not just any chocolate, either!

To be truthful, unlike many people, chocolate is not something that I need to indulge in everyday.  “Regular” chocolate candy usually seems to me to be a waste of my daily allotment of carbs and calories.  Believe it or not, I couldn’t even stand the taste of chocolate until I was practically grown.

All that is ancient history now, of course, but I am still picky in my taste for chocolate.  I am especially partial to the pure sensations of robust, full-bodied high cocoa content varieties.  However, I do enjoy interesting complex concoctions and desserts where chocolate are only one of the components.

Now that the holidays are well upon us and chocolate delights of some kind or another are everywhere, I’ve been thinking about just what goodies really do ring my Christmas bells.  The answer: truffles, truffles, and more truffles.  Like any other fine recipe, truffles are only as good as the ingredients that go into them.  For my taste, truffles are just about the perfect indulgence for my occasional craving.  Intense dark chocolate with deep complex flavors all tied together in a neat little package that I can knock back in one or two bites… yes, please!

My current truffle favorite is the version that my friend and food-styling partner, Linda Ullian Schmid, and I created for Sheri Lee’s beautiful cookbook, Under the Fig Leaf.  The recipe is for Fig Hazelnut Chocolate Truffles and includes several of my favorite flavors… dried figs, Frangelico Liqueur, toasted hazelnuts, and 85% Cocoa Extra Dark Lindt Excellence.  The four ingredients combine for a stellar truffle!  We are including the recipe as a teaser to the rest of the scrumptious recipes in this book, which really does make a great present.  We also want to invite you to check out the other beautiful and unique chocolates on our website.

FIG HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
Makes 25 to 30 pieces
Ingredients:
½ cup whipping cream
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Tablespoon light corn syrup
9 ounces (approximately 2 ½ bars) 85% Cocoa Extra Dark Lindt Excellence Chocolate
¼ cup dried figs, finely chopped, stems removed
2 Tablespoons Frangelico Liqueur
2 cups hazelnuts, toasted, finely chopped
Instructions:
  1. Combine the cream, butter, and corn syrup in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.  Remove from the heat and cool for 5 minutes.
  2. Break the chocolate into pieces and stir into the partially cooled cream mixture.  Stir until melted and blend in dried figs.  Add the Frangelico and blend well.
  3. Cool for 2 hours at room temperature.
  4. Using an electric mixer, whip on medium speed for 1 minute.
  5. Shape the mixture into 1-inch balls.
  6. Place the truffles on a parchment paper-lined tray and chill for 1 hour.
  7. Roll in the hazelnuts.

Chocoholics rejoice; Avanti Savoia is here for you!  Find a wealth of information on the history and production of chocolate on a previous post entitled Food of the Gods.

Friday, November 12, 2010

FAMILIES THAT COOK TOGETHER…


Definitely not what our parents would have thought as a viable career path for either of their sons.

We were expected to behave perfectly…
Our family descended from Scotch-Irish and Choctaw ancestors who were farmers in Oklahoma and Texas. Our family knew and loved good food, but rarely dined out at restaurants, with the notable exception of some legendary Tex-Mex and barbecue joints.  When as children we were allowed to accompany the grownups to a restaurants, it was a very special occasion. We were expected to behave perfectly and I think for the most part we did, so as not to lose the privilege.

Homemade ice cream, watermelon and cantaloupe feasts…
Ah, the groaning boards of family reunions, church socials and neighborhood potlucks stand out in my memory to this day.  Homemade ice cream, watermelon and cantaloupe feasts on back porches and of course steak and BBQ produced by dad on his own homemade grill.  Our dad was an avid hunter and fisherman.  Cleaning game and cooking it with my father constitute some of my earliest kitchen recollections.

…the family boasted spectacular cooks.
Great home style cooking was an integral part of our family’s life.  Both sides of the family boasted spectacular cooks.  Aunts, female cousins and even some of the guys could all put on a spread.  However, it was the matriarch of our father’s family, Clara Hobbs Lowery that was the star of the day. Her cooking always reflected family, community and fresh ingredients. The food was so good because it was honest, clean, and authentic to a particular time, place, and experience.

…our grandmother could “make a pie out of anything.”
My grandmother honed her skills feeding her family during the great depression.  They had a cow, chickens, a garden and the men and boys provided game and fish.  It was a family truism that our grandmother could “make a pie out of anything.” By the time my generation and better times came along survival cooking was no longer an issue, but her reputation in the kitchen was a well established fact.

…by necessity I learned how to cook it myself.
This was still long before the American Food Revolution and for the most part the home kitchen was pretty much the women’s turf, although in my family it was often said that “there is no such thing as man’s work and woman’s work.”  There were very few times that I helped with any food preparation with the exception of cooking game and fish.  Our mother flat out refused to touch fresh game and so by necessity I learned how to cook it myself.  It would be fair to note that my motivation to cook professionally was through my personal delight in eating those wonderful childhood foods. Becoming a working chef was definitely not what our parents would have thought as a viable career path for either of their sons.

…I began by washing dishes.
It was not a career decision that brought me into the field, but rather a series of opportunities and the evolution in my love affair with food.  As many of us have done, I begin by washing dishes.  Next, came a stint as a baker (which is still a major interest), a position in Canada as a kitchen manager and then I discovered catering.  The old adage about being in the right place at the right time was so very true for the catering business in Austin, Texas in the 1970’s. 

Austin has always had a vibrant social and cultural life…
Austin is the capitol of Texas of course, and that meant and still means a lot of money spent on parties and entertainment of all sorts.  The University of Texas also offers a tremendous amount of catering opportunities.  Austin has always had a vibrant social and cultural life and received quite an influx of personalities associated with the Johnson administration after the former President and Mrs. Johnson returned to Texas.

David … proved himself… by his attitude and work ethic.
A young ambitious and aggressive caterer could soon himself working for Texas Governors, politicians of all stripes, the Board of Regents of the University, President of the University and representatives of the cities social elite.  As my catering career flourished, employing a staff created a reason for my brother, David Lowery to join me in Austin.  David started as server and prep cook but soon proved himself by not only by developing his kitchen skills but also by his attitude and work ethic.  A number of years later, David included our sister, Pam Thomas on his staff.  During one of my visits home a couple of years ago, all three of us had the opportunity to work together at one of David’s function.  What a delight that was and recognition of our efforts coming full circle.

...reads like an official “who’s who”…
Fast forward some 35 years and that (not so young anymore) caterer now finds himself Chef Consultant and Cooking Instructor with Avanti Savoia. David has advanced himself to being a personal chef and caterer to a small clientele that reads like an official “who’s who” of central Texas.  David has served every sitting Texas Governor for over 30 years and every former Governor that has held office since the 50’s.  He also can boast of having served every Presidential candidate on both sides as well as several sitting Presidents since 1980.

…the stability and confidence that comes with his vast experience…
World class musicians, movie stars, famous authors and just plain folks have all been catered to by David.  Regardless of the status or lack of it by any client, David always gives his all.  His customers have come to rely on not only his formidable skills, but also on the stability and confidence that comes with his vast experience and reputation. Let me just assure you that big brother, Chef Joseph is very proud (though not in the least amazed) by his younger sibling’s success.

…the uncrowned royalty of Texas.
David has had experience conducting training programs for catering servers, but has only taught cooking classes upon occasion.  Therefore it was exciting for us all when he agreed to teach a cooking class in late October at La Cucina at Avanti Savoia.  He decided that he would demonstrate and share the recipes for some of his most popular party recipes.  The master caterer named his class, Party Like A Millionaire.  We asked the question, “Would you like to prepare your own holiday cocktail party just like the uncrowned royalty of Texas?”  The overwhelming answer was yes, as the class sold out almost immediately.  Due to the great response, I will teach the class again in late December, although David will not be here with us due to his heavy catering commitments in Texas.  I’ll muddle through as best I can and we already know that his menu is delicious!  Check it out for yourself.

Party like a Millionaire

  • Fruit-wood smoked salmon with fresh fennel salsa in filo cups: sublime and elegant hors d’oeuvre.
  • Fried avocado with red chili mayonnaise: deep-fried pieces of panko-coated avocado, served with a fiery dipping sauce.
  • Cilantro pesto Torta: a layered appetizer of cilantro/pecan pesto, cream cheese and feta to be spread on toasted pita points.
  • Medallions of roasted pork tenderloin, topped with fruited Pico de Gallo (Mexico City style): this distinctive blend of pineapple, purple onion, jicama, cilantro, limes, and chilies is fantastic on slices of pork tenderloin.
  • Roulades of seared Japanese eggplant filled with herbed goat cheese cheese: simplicity … both to make and to serve.
  • Grandmother Lowery’s vanilla pound cake cubes with Tres Leches sauce: a venerable family heirloom cake recipe, served with decadent Mexican “three milk” sauce.
All of David’s recipes will soon be on the Avanti Savoia website, but here is a sample dish that was a big hit in the cooking class.

Fruit-Wood Smoked Salmon with Fresh Fennel Salsa in Filo Cups Yields 45 pieces
This is the most requested recipe that David serves.  The key is the home smoked salmon, David prefers pecan wood but most any aromatic wood can be used successfully.
*Avanti Savoia Products
Ingredients:
  • 1 pound salmon fillet with skin on
  • For the soaking brine
  • 4 cups water
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup Salish Smoked Sea salt*
  • Small amount of olive oil* to brush top of salmon
Instructions:
  1. Combine water, sugar and salt.  Pour over salmon placed in a non- reactive container, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate over night or at least 4-8 hours.
  2. Prepare your smoker for a long cool fire and soak the smoking wood of choice.
  3. Drain salmon and place it skin side down on a piece of foil in the smoker, brush top lightly with olive oil.  Smoke the salmon 1-2 hours over a cool smoke adding extra soaked wood as necessary. Chill smoked salmon until ready to serve.
Ingredients:
For the Fennel Salsa
  • 1 bulb Fennel, diced (with some of the more attractive greenery saved for garnish)
  • ½ purple onion, diced
  • !/4 cup Bangor Capers*, reserve juice
  • ¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped
  • ¼ cup Colonna Gran Verde Lemon Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil*
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • Fleur De Sel Sea salt* to taste
  • Three 1.9 Ounce packages frozen Filo Pastry Cups
Instructions:
  1. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Add liquid from the capers if salsa is dry.
  2. Remove Filo cups from package and place on baking sheet in a 375 degree oven until crisp and very slightly browned.
  3. Cool Filo cups, flake salmon and place a portion in each cup.  Top salmon with a small amount of Fennel Salsa and garnish with a little piece of the greenery.

David ended his recipes with the following dedication to the lady “who could make a pie out of anything.”  She would be so proud of her cooking family!

Dedicated to Joseph’s and David’s first culinary inspiration; their Grandmother,
CLARA HOBBS LOWERY
1896-1979

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

AUTUMN REVIEW

Happenings at Avanti Savoia
Pepper Jelly Gift Set

With Autumn now in full swing I thought that it was an appropriate time to think about our busy summer and look forward to some of our immediate plans for the new season.

Honey Update:
In the last post we explored the sweet world of honey and we have a couple of further words on the subject.  First, Avanti’s founder and a new and enthusiastic bee keeper, Doug Slocum has harvested his first honey from his own hives.  A few of his friends were lucky enough to receive a little sample of his “first fruits.”  It posses a rich golden color, slightly floral favor with a little bit of spice on the aftertaste.  (Have I been writing too much copy or what)?  Who knows, maybe some day we will be able to offer you our own line of organic Avanti Savoia honey.  Stay tuned.

Also in the same post I shared with you a relatively true story about the honey finding ability of my Choctaw grandfather.  It seems that my story about him being able to spot a honey bee and follow all the way to the hive was only partially accurate.  My favorite uncle, G.R. Lowery of Dallas, Texas (and a proud member of the Choctaw Nation, as well) was pleased with the story, but set me straight on the exact procedure.  He should know; he was actually present for the events.  It was not just one bee that the old Native American gentleman followed, but a series of them. 

The way he actually did it was by setting out a bait of very thick sugar water poured into one of those old fashioned ceramic canning lids.  A bee would be drawn to the bait and after having its fill would then take off for the hive.  It was that point that my grandfather would jump up and follow as long as he could with my (then) young uncle in tow.  When he lost sight of the first bee, he would again set out his bait, attract another bee and follow it.  He repeated this procedure until at last he found his hive.  I do appreciate knowing the exact details.

Let me share just one last honey note before moving on.  Recently we hosted several friends for a small dinner.  Knowing full well that my friends were vegans, I had designed the menu accordingly.  Although in the process I displayed my ignorance about vegans, I did learn something which is always a good thing.  We whipped up a beautiful salad straight from the garden and dressed it with the Honey Vinaigrette recipe from the last post.  I was very proud of the purity of the salad and dressing to offer to my health conscious friends.  Paolo Cassini Gran Cru Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Aceteria Merlino Honey Vinegar, Fleur de Sel Sea Salt and freshly ground Black Peppercorns.  Simple, clean, perfect dressing except… vegans do not eat honey!  I was able to quickly prepare an alternative and was inspired to educate myself on the concepts and precepts of vegans.

La Cucina at Avanti Savoia:
In the last 30 some odd years I have taught at several cooking schools and programs, but I had never been in charge of organizing an entire program myself.  Well, I suppose I can now take that one off my bucket list.  To begin with, there is the chore of designing and furnishing a demonstration kitchen that is suited to cooking classes.  Doug and Ben outdid themselves in the design department and personally performed all sorts of construction tasks.  Of course, I had an absolute blast in purchasing all the proper equipment for our new Batterie de Cuisine.  What chef would not be thrilled to outfit a brand new kitchen with his or her own selections of tools, gadgets and machines?  Now, I certainly can’t complain about the quality of my tools can I?

Next came planning the individual classes (mine and the other instructors), scheduling in harmony with the other business demands of Avanti Savoia, marketing, and the actual recipes and format for each of the classes.  Believe me, if you find yourself attending quality cooking classes anywhere, rest assured that there has been many, many hours invested in the experience beyond the two or so hours that you attend the class.  It is however, a labor of love.

Now, with a summer of successful classes behind us, our confidence is building and so is our excitement.  A wide range of culinary subject matter has been explored this first summer with New Orleans’ and Italian classes’ undoubtedly being the most popular.  In scheduling months in advance we also neglected to realize that students want repeats of popular classes that sell out quickly.  Learning and adjusting as we go, the response from our attendees has been so gratifying.  It really is great fun to share a passion with folks that respond with joy and excitement.  We also couldn’t make this work without the donated time by partners and devoted friends.  (It takes a village to clean up after me!)

Everyone enjoying the BBQ Shrimp
Now, we are beginning a new season with a host of offerings that we hope will be of interest to the public.  More cake decorating from master designer, Regina Long, more sushi skills from Chef Karen Crumley and my usual eclectic whims based on my career and travels.  We are also very pleased at the prospect of our friend, partner and man on the ground in Italy, Don Vito De Carolis teaching Authentic Italian Pasta Sauces at Home in late November.  Visit “Cooking Classes” on our website to keep up with the action.

Contests and Events:
International Biscuit Festival
We had a great time participating in the first “International Biscuit Festival.”   The talented chefs from the famed Blackberry Farms provided an amazing brunch in a beautiful outdoor setting.  There was also a biscuit bakeoff where we managed to take a third place for our “Big Island Biscuit.”  A quality “foodie” event, delicious food and lots of new friends; what could be nicer?

Avanti on TV
Our local NBC affiliate TV station WBIR recently visited Avanti Savoia.  Check out their interview with Ben and Chef Joseph on their program Live at Five at Four.

Please Vote:

Avanti Savoia is a proud sponsor of the Dogwood Arts Festival in Knoxville, Tennessee.  We would appreciate your vote for the Dogwood Plan for Art in Public Places.










The Holidays are coming:
We always love the holidays and new exciting products are beginning to arrive daily. This year we want to help make your gift giving plans a little easier with a wonderful assortment of Holiday Ensembles available in attractive wooden gift boxes at a wide range of prices.  Chef Joseph and our terrific photographer, Bruce Cole  had a great time selecting, preparing, styling and photographing our delicious products.  Call Chef Joseph for uniquely customized gifts collections, as well.

As always, Bon Appetit Y’all!

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

HONEY


A sweet story

Many of our Avanti Savoia blog posts (olives, vinegars, chocolate, rice, etc.) begin with noting just how ancient a particular food or product is in the history of human experience.  The evidence proves that honey (derived from the old English word hunig) can certainly make a claim to be one of the oldest. Cave paintings located near Valencia, Spain depict honey gathering from thousands of years ago.  References to honey and bees exist in Egyptian hieroglyphics, Sumerian and Babylonian Cuneiform texts, the Torah, Koran, Old and New Testaments, Indian Vedas and Chinese literature. The Greeks and Romans not only valued honey as a luxurious sweetener, they also rated it highly for health and medicinal purposes.  Honey has been used as a topical antibiotic for centuries. Like cocoa beans, honey has also been utilized as a unit of currency.  We also have to at least briefly mention mead, the legendary drink of kings and Vikings, which is simply fermented honey and water.    
  
I knew of two kinds of honey when I was a child; the ubiquitous bright golden grocery store versions, (which at the time I liked just fine) and then there was the wild dark mysterious honey that my Choctaw grandfather gathered on his own.  Although I was very young and never actually saw him do it, other older members of our family confirm his honey finding ability.  Having been born on an Oklahoma reservation in 1892, my grandfather was an accomplished hunter, fisherman and all-round savvy woodsman. The stories contend that his outdoor skills included the ability to locate and “rob” wild honey bee hives.

His reported method of doing this was to position himself somewhere in an area where he could see bees and focus his vision on one.  He would then jump up and follow the bee to the hive, all the while keeping his eyes trained on the particular bee.  When presented as family lore over the years I simply accepted this as true or at least partly true.  However, beekeepers with whom I have spoken confirm that it would be quite possible to do this.

By the time of my grandfather’s birth, Native American’s were quite familiar with honeybees and honey.  That had not always been true.  Perhaps surprising to some, Apis mellifera, the European honeybee is not native to North America.  There are thousands of types of native bees, but none are as prolific or docile as the European variety. There were also South American sting-less bees that were prized for their honey.  In fact, the Mayans were quite skilled in their Apicultural skills.

Historical records indicate that the first hives of the European honey bee (Apis mellifera) were imported into Virginia around the mid 1620’s.  Reportedly called the “white man’s fly” the honey bee was indeed the harbinger of change.  Records then indicate that it then took the honeybee about 230 more years to reach the west coast.

For decades in North America, most honey was collected from wild colonies although by the 19th century many individuals kept bees as part of their farm stock.  Honey (and Maple syrup) was a vital necessity before the widespread availability of cane sugar and the beeswax obtained was also very valuable.

Particulars of honey production are really kind of amazing. Simply stated, honey is produced by the bees from flower nectar which is the liquid in the base of the blossoms. It is concentrated and placed in the familiar hexagon shaped honeycomb cells and capped with beeswax. Many fruits rely on the bees’ visit for pollination although not all, the fig depends on wasps for its pollination needs.

Bees forage in a 2 to 2 1/2 mile radius from their hives to collect pollen.  That’s about 12 ½ square miles.  It is estimated that it requires 2 million flowers simply to make 1 pound of honey!  The old cliché “busy as a bee” takes on a very literal meaning when viewed in light of these statistics.

In recent years wild bee colonies and bee keepers (both amateurs and professionals) have faced a number of daunting challenges.  “Colony Collapse Disorder” is a blanket term that can include a number of conditions.  Tracheal mites, Varroa mites, Nosema, and Small Hive beetles, can all prove disastrous for our little buddies.  The loss of rural plant diversity and pesticides in the environment also add to the stress placed on the bee population.  It is believed that many hives may show at least some trace of pesticides.

As with so many commercial products, there is a great deal of confusion over terminology and downright misinformation about honey.  There exist few real standards, no federal certification and no penalties even for out right lying.  Often marketing claims are inaccurate and simply amount to marketing ploys.

The term “organic” is very difficult to verify, as well.  Any product can be certified organic if it complies with existing regulations.  The problem here is that none exist for honey. So what’s a honey lover to do?  The quick answer is to keep your own bees (as Avanti Savoia’s founder Doug Slocum has begun to do) or short of that – know and trust your keeper or in our case, trust the merchant to do the leg work and verification for you.  Doug notes, “Avanti Savoia makes a concentrated effort to know our suppliers and their apicultural practices.  We offer our products being highly confident about their quality and your satisfaction!”

Avanti Savoia takes both pride and pleasure in offering a wonderful collection of “honeys from around the world.” We currently stock some 2 dozen varieties of honey from Italy, Canada, Hawaii, Florida, South Carolina and Georgia. Very soon we will be adding products from Germany and South America, as well.

Fantastic honeys available through Avanti Savoia:

ROYAL HAWAIIAN HONEY PRODUCTS
Organic Christmas Berry Honey 
This is a raw, organic honey with undertones of brown sugar and molasses with a subtly spicy finish. This Hawaiian delight is gathered by bees from the Christmas berry shrub. (Schinus terebinthifolia), is a native of Brazil that was introduced to Hawaii. It is a bold and robust honey. It is also one of the richest in antioxidants. These protective compounds are associated with a reduced risk of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Product of Hawaii

Raw Organic Lehua Honey
A distinctive light golden honey offers a silky mouth-feel with butterscotch overtones and floral bouquet. Lehua honey is produced by the bees from the Lehua flower which grows on the ‘Ohi’a tree. (Metrosideros polymorpha), is an indigenous Hawaiian species prized for its fragrance, delicate taste and light color; Lehua Honey can only be found three months a year. This honey truly captures the essence of the islands.  Chef Joseph’s favorite! Product of Hawaii

Macadamia Nut Blossom Honey
Beautiful amber colored honey that is raw, unprocessed and slightly nutty in flavor. Garnered from the flowers of the macadamia nut tree, (Macadamia integrifolia), which was native to Australia. There are many orchards of macadamia nuts on the Big Island of Hawaii. Beekeepers and orchard owners find it mutually beneficial to place beehives in flowering macadamia nut plantations. The orchard’s trees are pollinated by the bees, resulting in a more bountiful nut harvest. In turn, the beekeeper (and the world) is rewarded with this velvety, rich, amber-colored honey. Product of Hawaii

CANADIAN PRODUCTS

White Gold Raw Clover Honey
This is a very popular Clover honey from the Canadian tundra. It has a very low water content, which makes it as pure white as the winter snow. We have a friend who calls it naughty honey, yes it is that good! This delicate raw clover honey self-solidifies soon after extraction due to its extremely low water content. Product of Canada

CROSS CREEK HONEY PRODUCTS

Tupelo Honey 1lb jar
This is the real deal!  Fresh from the hive to your table Tupelo honey’s unique flavor is one of Americas finest and rarest. “Fresh Honey from Local Hives” is the motto of this company, Cross Creek Honey. This is a taste of authentic old Florida. Tupelo Honey has a delicious and unique flavor that makes it a favorite with everyone. Product of Florida

Orange Blossom Honey 1 lb jar
Raw, unfiltered, unaltered just what nature intended it to be!  We consider it one of the best orange blossom honeys available. Cross Creek produces this luscious and fragrant honey that features such a bright and delightful flavor. We are happy to offer this special product from special beekeepers that will please any honey lover. Product of Florida.

Gallberry Honey
Gallberry (Ilex glabra) is a small evergreen shrub that is found in the Southeastern United States.  A limited amount of delightful Gallberry honey is produced each year.  Join the fortunate Florida honey lovers that are “in the know” about this regional favorite!  Product of Florida.

Palmetto Honey
Saw palmetto (Serena repens) is considered an endangered and the rare honey produced from it is in short supply.  This is a honey that is seldom even tasted outside of Florida.  Avanti Savoia is very happy to be able to introduce this special honey as well as the rest of the Cross Creek line.  Product of Florida

ALBERO DELLA VITA PRODUCTS

Lavender Honey 
Bees love Lavender and gourmets love the Lavender honey that the bees produce. The bouquet is floral, fruity and a little woody with hints of black currants on the palate. Beautiful color of pearls, this honey is a very special experience. Product of Italy

Eucalyptus Honey 
Perhaps it's time to proclaim eucalyptus blossom honey the ideal companion to dairy foods! Try it with fresh cheese, such as ricotta - or mixed with plain yogurt or for the ultimate comfort food, stirred into warm milk. We think it's the light scent of licorice and medium sweetness that does it. Product of Italy

Honeydew Honey 
Honeydew is the extremely sweet byproducts of certain sap drinking insects. Bees can take Honeydew instead of nectar to create a dark honey with the rich fragrance of fig preserves. This honey is very thick, dark, rich and extremely sweet. Honeydew honey is high in antioxidants and highly prized in Europe as one of the most healthful of honeys. We consider this a “must taste” experience for the honey lover.  Product of Italy

Acacia Honey
Acacia honey is wildly popular throughout Italy for its ability to satisfy a chronic sweet tooth. Light golden-yellow honey extremely sweet but never cloying, notes of vanilla and cooked pears, excellent with tea. Stores well in a cool, dry place--won’t crystallize and harden like other honeys. Product of Italy

Alps Flower Honey
Mild but not bland with a hint of herbs, solid texture makes it a delicious choice for toast, biscotti, pound cake.  Warmed & drizzled works too! From the Italian Alps--where honey is harvested in spring. We think you'll love the authentic bee farm label as well!  Product of Italy

Citrus Flower Honey
Yep…bees were in high spirits making this honey! Why wouldn't they be? Hives are placed in orange and lemon groves at height of bloom. Tangy, zesty gives tea a lemony boost, try on apple slices with cheese or on whole wheat toast…Paradiso!  Product of Italy

Rhododendron Honey
Rare mountain honey much sought after for its gentle yet distinct character ...it imparts aura of delicate flower petals. Tastes like it just dripped off the honeycomb! Beekeepers put much care into cultivating this rare mountain honey.  Product of Italy

Linden Flower Honey
Linden trees (European Basswood) are a commonly used tree in European parks and to line roads. Honey produced from the Linden flowers is light yellow in color featuring a woodsy aroma with light touches of lime. Linden flower honey is popular for its mild flavor and also reputed sedative and antiseptic qualities. Mild honey wonderful in tea or on toast and a great addition to your collection! Product of Italy

Chestnut Honey
From the Roero valley in Italy, this is a big bold honey, slightly sweet with a touch of bitterness. Imagine honey from flowers sharing the same soil as famous Roero Valley Italian wines!  Chestnut honey is not something you stumble across everyday. And for sure, the Italians are particular about how they eat it. Slightly sweet with a bitter aftertaste (sweet and sour, if you will), this pairs beautifully with salami, or drizzled over stronger cheeses like gorgonzola, pecorino, and parmesan. Intense, earthy fragrance-- this honey is well suited for cooking. Product of Italy

TARTUFLANGHE PRODUCTS

Italian Acacia Honey with Truffles
This liquid gem blends the sweet taste of the acacia white flower with the earthy aroma of the Italian Piedmont's White Alba truffle. Add drops to aged Parmesan or fresh Ricotta cheese, and then pair with sliced fruit to savor the natural flavor and musky scent.  Product of Italy

SAVINI TARTUFI PRODUCTS

Honey with White Truffles
Loaded with tradition and flavor, enjoy this rare delight at the end of a meal with gorgonzola or other cheeses.  Also try this extraordinary honey with duck, pheasant or quail. Product of Italy

SAVAVANAH BEE COMPANY PRODUCTS

Organic Acacia Honey
Called the "moonflower honey" in Italy, this organic honey is produced in the Southern Italian Alps. It has a clean, light vanilla taste and is delicate on the palate. It tastes delicious in coffee or tea or served drizzled over toast, with ricotta or shaved hard cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano. Elegant! Product of Italy

Tupelo Honey
Harvested over two or three weeks in the early spring, Tupelo nectar is one of the rarest and most valuable liquid treasures in the world. After being concentrated by the worker bees, the nectar is transformed into a delicacy whose combination of strength, subtlety, and sweetness is almost impossible to describe. A perfect compliment with a strong black tea, buttered toast, or aged cheddar. Product of USA.

Orange Blossom Honey
Orange Blossom Honey is fragrant, delicate and perfect when spread on toast, waffles, pancakes and other breakfast breads, also it makes a delicious topping for yogurt, ice cream, fruit salads, and even meat glazes. Product of USA.

Sourwood Honey
This complex honey displays notes of sweet gingerbread with a long finish... Sour by name sweet by nature! Sourwood honey takes pin point timing and delicate care to produce. Sourwood honey is produced from the sourwood tree that has a beautiful white bell-shaped flower that appears from late June to August. Product of USA.

Flute Pack
Four flutes of bottled sunshine, excellent examples of American honey at its best...even the bees are patriotic. This is one sweet deal; an Avanti Savoia exclusive. Product of USA.

Honey Sampler Gift Pack
Just a taste of four exquisite honeys then BOOM onto the Flute Pack...works every time. A honey for every occasion! The perfect sampling of four exquisite honeys includes Raspberry, Tupelo, Black Sage, and Orange Blossom honey. Product of USA.

Raw Honey Comb with Tupelo Honey
The deep color and earthy flavor of this rare delicacy from the North Georgia Mountains is an exceptional culinary experience. Hand cut from frames filled with honey produced from the flowers of the sourwood tree, each golden cell brims with concentrated nectar ideally suited for wine and cheese. When you see our sourwood honeycomb and Tupelo honey you think dreams can come true. When you spread it on a hot piece of buttered toast, you know they have! Product of USA.

Hand Cut Honeycomb
Simply Amazing! This hand cut square of honeycomb is filled with delicious golden honey. The wax is edible and adds one more complex character to this simple nectar of life. Spread on hard cheeses or a warm slice of toast or hot biscuit. Also makes for a stunning presentation on a cheese and cracker plate at your next get together. Product of USA.

Miele Al Matcha Honey & Green Tea
Matcha is a powdered green tea used in the Japanese Tea Ceremony.  Combine this “national treasure” with Acacia honey and you have a rare delicacy. An amazing combination to spread on toast for breakfast, topping for ice cream or yogurt, or added to a cup of warm milk or hot water. Italian Acacia Honey with Matcha (Japanese Powdered Green Tea) 

BX025 The Elegant Honey Gift Box
Four American honey classics (Tupelo, Black Sage, Orange Blossom, & Sourwood), packaged in pretty fluted bottles and an attractive handmade wooden box. What a SWEET present! Each has a distinctive flavor for enhancing hot tea, icy lemonade, salad dressing, barbecue sauce & ice cream. Honey lovers will enjoy spreading on scones, fresh baked bread, toast and (to be honest and I’ll bet I’m not the only one) big luscious spoonfuls. Product of USA

ITALIAN HONEY VINEGARS

Orti Borghosi Honey Balsamic Vinegar
A wonderful full flavored Balsamic condiment made from cooked grape must blended with lime honey and aged in oak.  Serve with cheese, fruit and especially with grilled or roasted meats.  Product of Italy.

Aceteria Merlino Honey Vinegar
This is beautifully balanced vinegar produced with a blend of four Italian honeys, featuring low acidity and a smooth sweetness.  Vinaigrette made with this product is a stand out favorite at La Cucina at Avanti Savoia cooking classes!  Product of Italy

Don Vito’s Vinaigrette
Ingredients:
Sel de Mer fine to taste
1 part Honey Vinegar
3 parts Marcinase extra virgin olive oil
Instructions:
1.    In a small mixing bowl, just before serving: whisk salt with vinegar until mixture begins to foam.
2.    Beat in olive oil until smooth, toss with salad, serve and enjoy.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

FOUR YEARS AND COUNTING


Personal food updates from your friends at Avanti Savoia

Avanti Savoia has just celebrated our 4th anniversary, so we thought it would fun to share some of the events and projects that have caught the attention of the Avanti family.  We are, of course, very happy to be surviving the challenging economy, thanks to our fine products and great customers.  Our special sales and incredible deals are proving to be very popular!  The weekly trivia contest has become a source of “foodie” fun for us all. We are delighted to be able to now offer top quality cheeses imported directly from Italy.  And, we have all been working hard on our “Recipes and Cooking” section to which you can now access over 700 free recipes on our “Online Cookbook.”

The president of Avanti Savoia, Ben Slocum enjoyed an enlightening trip to Italy, where he attended trade shows, spent time with Vito De Carolis, and visited some of our purveyors of Italian treasures.  Wine, travel with Don Vito, and tasting traditional balsamic vinegars, extra virgin olive oils, and great Italian cheeses… well, someone had to do it!

Ben has also taken up the art of home-brewing and we are all anticipating the first tasting of his labors.  Ben and his wife, Erin, have also become very serious about their health and exercise program.  Crossfit is a strength and conditioning program consisting of specific and intense workouts.  In addition to the workout regimen, they did a ten-week strict paleo diet, which Ben and Erin completed with flying colors.
 
Their diet consists primarily of foods very high in protein and very low in carbohydrates, so Ben has been asking lots of questions about simple recipes for preparing foods on his “good” list.  In response to cooking questions relating to this program, we hosted a paleo-friendly cooking class.  Our instructions included demonstrations of disjointing and boning a whole chicken, filleting salmon, and the basic techniques required to process vegetables including onions, celery, tomatoes, artichokes, and (much to everyone’s surprise) rutabagas. 

Due partially to the enthusiasm generated by this class, we made the decision to install a magnificent new demonstration kitchen that we have dubbed “La Cucina at Avanti Savoia.”  We started teaching classes a few weeks ago and the response has been fantastic.  We have also added two other cooking instructors and are gearing up for an exciting summer of learning.  Check out the class descriptions and schedules on our website.

Doug Slocum, Avanti’s founder, has been inspired by cooking legend, Jacques Pepin.  This is certainly an inspiration that I appreciate, as I have several of the Pepin’s books and was privileged to take a series of cooking classes with him about 20 years ago. Doug has been interested in the process of salt curing pork and other forms of charcuturie.  However, perhaps from Avanti Savoia’s collection of honeys from around the world, Doug has become an avid beekeeper.  He has even deepened his interest with classes at the University of Tennessee.  Watch for the next post to our blog celebrating all things honey!

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

RICE


Riso, Riz, Arroz

Rice is a part of so many cuisines…
Billions of people eat it daily, many of them relying on it as staple primary food. It is second only to corn in worldwide production. Rice is a part of so many cuisines all over the globe, with each culture defining it with their own customs and traditions. By legend, rice was introduced to Europe by Alexander the Great around 23 hundred years ago.  Folk lore and. popular mythology is often hard to separate from fact and historical accuracy

I can’t say for sure if any poor soul was ever actually executed…
One of my personal favorite tales is the story relating the introduction of Italian Rice to America by our third President and first foodie, Thomas Jefferson.  The list of now familiar foods that were introduced by Jefferson is both long and amazing.  During Jefferson’s tenure as Ambassador to France, the Italians held a monopoly on the cultivation of rice.  This monopoly was zealously guarded.  In fact it was a capital crime to remove rice from Italy, although I can’t say for sure if any poor soul was ever actually executed for the offense.  The story (which does seem to be accurate) is that Jefferson smuggled the precious grain out of Italy in his coat pockets.

Not surprising, China ranks number one globally…
What became known as Carolina Gold Rice had been introduced from Madagascar to South Carolina in 1685. By the time of Jefferson, this American rice was definitely considered inferior to the variety grown in the Piedmont. The future President went on to introduce the Italian rice to the planters in South Carolina where it became a vital element of the economy. Rice cultivation is still an important part of agriculture in America with the US ranking 11th overall in worldwide production.  The state of Arkansas produces the largest harvests with California, Louisiana, Texas and Mississippi following in that order.  Not surprisingly, China ranks number one globally, although Italy (having harvested rice since 1468) is still the major producer in Europe.

Rice is not a water plant per se…
Rice (Oyza sativa) is considered to be the edible fruit of a member of a wild grass family originally domesticated somewhere in Asia (or even possibly Africa).  Rice is not a water plant per se, but rice is able to tolerate large amounts of water.  Due to this characteristic, rice is often grown in flooded fields for weed control.  All rice produced in the US is grown in flooded fields.

Italy alone produces approximately 50 different varieties…
From two main cultivated species (japonica and indica) come thousands of variations.  These variations include colors, sizes and forms; although in this post we will be primarily looking at the varieties offered by Avanti Savoia and how to use them in the kitchen. Italy alone produces approximately 50 different varieties and rice remains especially important to the cuisine of Northern Italy. Different types of rice are often best prepared in different ways and used in specific dishes. 

An accompaniment with just about any main dish…
Generally, rice is boiled or steamed and eaten sweetened or salted. It can be served as an accompaniment with just about any main dish.  Rice flour is used as a substitute for white flour in some recipes by people wishing to avoid wheat in their diet.  Sake is a well known Japanese alcoholic beverage brewed from rice. 

Parboiling rice is a process that dates back to ancient India.
Any rice that has had only the outermost layer (husk) removed, but with the outer bran layer left intact can be termed brown rice. The rice, when the next layers (bran and germ) are removed is considered white rice.  A balance is struck between the nutrition of brown rice and the cooking convenience of white rice with parboiled rice (also known as converted rice). Historically speaking, parboiling rice is a process that dates back to ancient India.

A relative of rice…
So called wild rice (Zizania aquatica), despite the name is not considered rice at all, but rather an aquatic plant that botanists consider a relative of rice.  Northern wild rice (Zizania palustris) is one of the wild rice species native to the Great Lakes region of the United States.  Wild rice is an important food for wildlife as well as being cherished by the Native American tribes of the area and appreciated by gourmets. 

They demonstrate their stewardship of the land, animals and air and water quality…

Avanti Savoia’s supplier of fine rice and rice products is the very Italian firm of Cascina Belvedere.  Owned by the Pico family for over 100 years, this is an award winning company dedicated to a tradition of passion and quality.  Cascina Belvedere’s rice farming operations are located in Valle Padana Vercellese, an area blessed with an abundance of water.  The Pico family continues to this day to improve their company by the quality of their rice and production methods.  By employing organic production methods they demonstrate their stewardship of the land, animals and air and water quality. The Pico family has also made a deliberate decision to sell directly to suppliers (such as Avanti Savoia), instead of supplying huge rice corporations. Their products include not only a selection of exquisite Italian rices, but also easy to prepare Risotto mixes.

AVANTI SAVOIA’S RICE AND RISOTTO SELECTIONS
Carnaroli (Japonica cultivar) is known affectionately as “Northern Italy’s pasta.”  Although Arborio rice is best known as risotto rice, many cooks prefer Carnaroli.  Both rices contain high levels of starch (amylase), but Carnaroli retains more liquid and holds its shape better, resulting in a more textured dish.  This authentic Italian favorite is grown around the towns of Novara and Verselli located between Milan and Turin.  Carnaroli works perfectly in many recipes, but especially stands out in risottos.  After cooking, the rice remains fluffy, but not sticky.  It is idea in delicate and subtle dishes such as those with ingredients like white truffles and saffron, where it achieves the status of the “king of rice.”   

Arborio (Japonica cultivar) is the longest grained of the Avanti Savoia’s Italian rice varieties.  It is named for the town of Arborio in the Po Valley.  Typically, Arborio undergoes less milling than other rices resulting in higher starch content.  This gives the rice a classic creaminess that makes it a popular choice for risottos, risotto balls, rice puddings and paellas.  Although the cooking ratio is approximately 1 cup of rice to 2 ½ cups of liquid for 15 to 17 minutes, carefully follow the recipe for the specific dish that you are preparing.  Each recipe can have its own recommended proportions.

Essenza (Basmati cultivar) is actually Italian grown rice obtained from the combination of a Thai rice variety and Pakistani basmati.  Essenza is a highly aromatic variety that has an aroma similar to that of freshly baked bread.  When cooked the grains of this rice stay separate and fluffy. These characteristics are ideal for preparing boiled rice, various side dishes and rice salads.  One cup of rice combined with 2 cups of liquid cooked for 15 minutes will produce a nice basic rice suitable for many dishes.

Venere/Nerone (Japonica variation) is naturally black colored rice which was developed by crossbreeding from an ancient Chinese strain sometimes called “Forbidden Rice.”  This black rice was forbidden to the common people because for centuries it was cultivated for the exclusive use of the Chinese Emperor and nobility.  It was highly prized for its nutritional value and allegedly aphrodisiac properties. Venere does mean the Goddess of Love, Venus. (We will be waiting to hear back from you on this claim)!  Venere/Nerone rice is wonderfully fragrant, described as having an aroma “somewhere between sandalwood and freshly baked bread.”  Now a Piedmont classic, this unique rice is grown in particular areas of the Po Valley.  When cooked, it turns an amazing black/purple/burgundy color that offers endless presentation possibilities, hot or cold.  Nutty and chewy, it does take a little longer to prepare- about 40 minutes.

Parboiled Rice (Basmati cultivar) is widely known as “the rice that doesn’t become overcooked.”  The Parboiled process begins before the milling procedure that removes the husks.  The raw rice is first washed with hot water, steam-cooked, dried with hot air and then subjected to the milling process.  This ancient process improves the nutritional content of the rice by driving the nutrients from the bran into the grain.  This leaves around 80% of the nutrients found in brown rice.  It also makes the rice harder and more waxy and yellow or beige in appearance.  Cook for 15 to 16 minutes – 1 part rice to 2 cups liquid.

Integrale (Brown Rice) has been a staple of natural food cuisine for years.  It has a nutty and chewy texture that is highly nutritional, digestible and ideal for vegetarians.  Integrale rice does require more cooking time, about 40 minutes.  The ratio is 1 cup of rice to 2 1/2 cups of liquid (water or stock).  Cooked Integrale rice makes a particularly wholesome and delicious grain “burger.”

Rosso Selvaggio (Wild Red Rice) resulted from crossbreeding of Venere rice.  It is prized for its ruby red color and appetizing aroma.  Prepared in a similar manner and cooking time to Integrale rice, this unique rice is both sweet and rich in fiber.  Think healthful and great presentation.

Originario (Short Grain Rice) Beautiful, round, pearly grains characterize this fine rice.  Its high absorption capacity makes it excellent for soups, risottos, casseroles and desserts.  Originario is also rice that also delicious simply boiled for about 15 minutes.

Ribe (Cross between Italian Rb rice, Japanese and US rice varieties) is a style of rustic rice that is able to absorb large amounts of liquid.  Its appearance is compact and crystalline.  It is enjoyed in salads, pilafs and risottos and cooks in 15 to 16 minutes.

Risotto Mixes  Risotto is a classic Italian rice dish made by blending hot liquid into a mixture of rice and seasonings that have first been sautéed in butter or olive oil.  The liquid is added a little at a time and stirred continuously as each addition is absorbed.  The result is rice that is wonderfully creamy while the grains of rice remain separate and firm.  There are scores of variations on this delectable but labor intensive dish.  The preferred rice for Risotto is usually short grained rices high in starch.  Avanti Savoia and Cascina Belvedere have teamed up to bring you four different flavors of Risotto Mixes. 

Risotto with Tomato and Basil
Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms
Risotto with Asparagus
Risotto with Artichoke


These delectable time savers require only butter or olive oil, wine and water.  All other ingredients and seasonings (including premium Carnaroli rice) are included in the convenient 250 gram package AND cooks in just about 15 minutes!
 
Recipe Link:
Chicken Curry Rice Salad
Golden Rice Pilaf
Healthy Cajun Beans and Turkey Sausage
Mexican Rice
Paella Valencia
Pecan Rice
Rice Pilaf
Shrimp Creole
Galletti Mushroom Risotto
Green Risotto with Galletti Mushrooms
Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms
Risotto with Wild Mushrooms
Turkey Fried Rice
Yellow Rice with Galletti Mushrooms
Chicken and Ham Jambalaya
Chicken and Sausage Creole
Mulligatawny Soup
Summer Salad with Rice, Avocado, Mozzarella Cheese and Porcini Mushrooms (Insalata estiva di riso, avocado, mozzarella e fungi)
Drunken Risotto (Risotto Ubriaco)
Individual Rice Cakes with Chocolate Sauce (Tortine di Riso)
Rice with Tomato and Eggplant (Riso con Pomodoro and Melanzana)
Risotto with Zucchini (Risotto con Zucchine)
Black Venere Rice Salad (Insalata Venere)

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

MOM’S BIG DAY

Cook for her (for a change)

Celebrating a special day for Moms is so much a part of our national culture; it is a little surprising to remember that it has only been an official observation since 1914. Originally, the commemoration on the second Sunday in May had a particularly patriotic focus, “as a day for American citizens to show the flag in honor of those Mothers whose sons had died in war.”

The spirit of the occasion has mostly evolved into an occasion to simply celebrate motherhood and family.  (Not that there is anything simple about motherhood and family).  One of the unique customs that I can recall from my ever more distant childhood was that the guys of our family always wore carnation boutonnieres to church on Mother’s Day.  Even though I was quite young, my dad carefully explained the tradition of the colors of the flowers; red if one’s mother is living, white if deceased. 

The other “big deal’ was a wonderful meal prepared by my mom or grandmother.  Although it was not noted at the time, the idea that Mom has to cook a labor intensive meal on her special day now seems a little incongruous.  Hence the theme for this post, you do the cooking for her this time.

The menu that we have selected is creative and colorful, yet still easy enough for most dads to accomplish, maybe even with some help from younger family members.  Recipes can be found on the Avanti Savoia website and many of the ingredients are available through Avanti Savoia, as well.



Bruschetta (pronounced brus’ketta) is a simple yet savory appetizer that has been enjoyed in Italy for centuries.  The basic recipe calls for slices of good bread to be lightly grilled or toasted under the broiler, rubbed with garlic and then generously drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Change this up a little bit by adding a dollop of Lowcountry Tomato Sauce, a few capers, a pinch of Don Vito’s Gold Italian Herb Blend and grated Parmesan cheese – really easy and delicious!

Cold, creamy, pink and sweet; this is the perfect springtime soup for Mom.  Ripe strawberries team up with yogurt, blush wine and just a touch of orange, vanilla and sugar for a dreamy soup that could almost be a dessert.  White grape and strawberry juice is a good substitution for the wine if you wish to exclude the alcohol.

Hmm…Grilled Lamb Chops in the merry month of May should appeal to any mom that appreciates the succulent flavor of lamb.  Ask your butcher to “French” the chops for you if it sounds like too much trouble.  It just means to scrape the meat and tissue away from the top of the bone.  The process doesn’t alter the flavor; but the presentation just looks a little neater. The Bruschetta and the lamb can be cooked on the same standard grill outside or on a grill pan inside.

The lamb chops are seasoned with a traditional mix of olive oil, Balsamic vinegar, mustard and herbs before grilling.  They are then served on a fragrant bed of vegetables, herbs and olives that can be made well ahead of the grilling.  Offered on a plate highlighted by the beautiful Golden Rice Pilaf will have mom believing that you are a gourmet chef! 

Just in case Mom is a vegetarian or does not particularly enjoy lamb, the menu can easily be altered to suit her taste, as well.  Drop the lamb chops, substitute vegetable stock for the beef stock in the Aromatic Vegetables and just serve the Golden Rice Pilaf with the vegetables.  Sprinkle it with some toasted almonds if you like and Mom the vegetarian should be perfectly happy.

Yes, of course you can easily buy a good commercial pound cake.  However, our Lemon Lime Pound Cake is an heirloom recipe provided by our stellar cook of a grandmother, Clara Lowery. It seems absolutely perfect to share with other Mothers and Grandmothers on Mother’s Day.  My brother, Catering Chef David Lowery of Austin, Texas swears by this recipe and has served it at many events.  He reports that his clients especially enjoy the cake as the basis for petite fours and even as a wedding cake.  Our idea is a little less ambitious, just an easy pound cake baked in a Bundt, tube or loaf pan.  For chocolate lovers, it’s tasty to dress it up with a little splash of Leaning Oaks Chocolate Sauce.

Many restaurants offer nice Mother’s day events, but they will be crowded for sure.   Instead, just imagine how touched your mom or wife would be by something really special.  Don’t put it off, show her your love! We know that your cooking efforts will be sincerely appreciated by the mothers in your life and we hope that our menu suggestions and recipes will be a real help for you.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

HAM for EASTER: Postscript


A long history

…stormy and rainy
For scheduling reasons our Easter celebration had to happen the Sunday before Easter.  Rather than bright springtime weather, the day was stormy and rainy. However, it did little to dampen the spirits of our guests, Gary Elgin, Scott and Janice Tocher and my wife’s youngest son, Rodney Rohrback.  The basic menu was listed in the previous post, but at the last moment we decided to substitute the kind and preparation of the ham.
…plans do change
Although it was my intention at our Easter feast to serve a “city” ham that I smoked myself over wild cherry wood, plans do change.  A gift of a beautiful, traditional Tennessee Country Ham from Avanti Savoia’s founder, Doug Slocum, changed all that. (Doug, by the way, has been experimenting himself with home cured pork tenderloins for his own use).
…the history and lore of hams
The change in menu also offered me the opportunity to perfect the preparation of the unique “country” ham and delve deeper into the history and lore of hams in general.
Pork has had a prominent place on American menus since the Seventeenth Century. It is the cured hind legs, single pieces of hind legs or shoulders that are used to make what we usually think of as ham.  Hams from the front legs are called Picnic Hams.

Just for the sake of information, here are some brief definitions of various hams.
Old Fashioned Country Ham – Hams of this tradition are produced throughout the “ham belt” of the Southern states (particularly Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia). Methods and procedures vary from producer to producer and from region to region.  Country Hams are prepared with a salt cure and usually nitrates, sugar and pepper. Typically, they are then smoked over hardwood and then aged from 2 to 3 years. They are commonly sold whole with bone-in, but also come in pre-sliced pieces that are vacuum packed.
Smithfield Hams – These are indeed old fashioned country hams as well, but by law a ham can only be sold as a Smithfield Ham if it processed in Smithfield, Virginia, utilizing the Smithfield method.  This method entails a dry salt cure followed by a pepper coating, hickory smoking and a lengthy aging process.  The hams are produced from a particular breed of hog and are fed a specific diet.
Smithfield “type” or old Virginia Hams – These are hams processed in much the same way as authentic Smithfield’s but are produced outside of Smithfield and cannot be labeled as such.
Tasso “Ham” – A spicy Cajun specialty that strictly speaking, is not even ham. Chunks of pork (or sometimes beef) are highly seasoned and hot smoked for 2 or more days.  In cooking, Tasso is finely chopped and used to flavor many Louisiana dishes.
Commercial, mass marketed American Ham – Before any sort of processing occurs the meat may be referred to as fresh ham.  Generally however, most of these hams are cured using a dry method, sweet-pickling method or even more commonly, injection cured.  These methods are also sometimes combined.  Commercial hams, after curing can also be smoked and aged.  This manner of ham can be sold as fully cooked and also partially cooked.  Labeling and package instructions should be carefully read and followed. 
Canadian bacon - Although it is called “bacon” this product is more akin to ham.  It is taken from the eye of the loin, pre cooked and smoked.
Italian Ham (Prosciutto) – Prosciutto is only one of many famous cured pork products from Italy. Versions of “Prosciutto” are now being produced in America, although Prosciutto from Italy is the true Prosciutto.  Authentic Italian Prosciutto is salt cured and air dried, but not smoked and contains no nitrates or preservatives.  Prosciutto Cruda di Parma is more salty and less fatty, while Prosciutto di San Daniele is less salty, fattier and contains less moisture. Quality Prosciutto can be purchased through many specialty markets.  Cut and served in extremely thin slices, it is delicious with melon and figs and also lightly cooked as a component in a variety of Italian dishes.   
Spanish Ham (Jamon Iberico) – This is the high quality traditional dry-cured Spanish ham that is produced from a black pig (Pata Negra) native to the Iberian region.  There are several varieties distinguished by the diet of the pigs.  Similar in flavor to Prosciutto, they each have their own unique subtleties.  It is appearing in American restaurants specializing in Tapas.  There is also a lower quality ham known as Jamon Serrano.
French Ham (Jambon de Bayonne) – Produced near the town of Bayonne in the Basses-Pyrenees, this is the French version of cured ham.  A unique traditional curing method makes this ham a sought after delicacy.  It is very pink in color and low in sodium.
German Ham (Westphalian Ham) – These hams are produced from pigs fed on acorns in the Westphalia forest of Germany. They are seasoned with several herbs and spices and then slow smoked over beech and juniper woods. These dark hams with a light smoky taste are similar to the Black Forest Ham.
British Isles – There are also small production of styles variously know as York, Scotch, Irish and Gammon.

...pork curing and preserving
Now then, back to our story of American Country Hams. Early immigrants to America certainly brought their knowledge of pork curing and preserving with them to the new world, where Native Americans were already skilled at salt curing and the smoking of venison.
…a long history in the Southern Appalachian Mountains
The tradition of cured pork also has a long history in the Southern Appalachian Mountains.  The author Wilma Dykeman, until her death in 2006, was the Official Historian of the State of Tennessee.  In her book, The French Broad, she comments on the importance of the “hog” culture of this area.
“…hog and hominy state”
 “… corn carried as fat on the ribs of hogs and fowls was most easily transported along the muddy, winding roads of the nineteenth century, and was finally most easily sold as fresh meat to the cotton plantation owners and tenants in the lowlands but by far the greatest traffic of this era was in hogs, and most of the hogs were from Tennessee.  In the census of 1840 Tennessee was the greatest corn-producing state in the Union.  Her nickname became the ‘hog and hominy’ state, and production of the two went together just that closely. Corn brought the best price when it became pork. It was estimated… that between 150,000 and 175,000 Tennessee hogs were driven up the French Broad (river) every year…”  
…one that was just about perfect and another that was almost inedible
There are two basic cures for ham – wet and dry.  All Country Hams are dry cured. Country Hams are available either whole or sliced and vacuum packed.  The sliced variety served fried is the way Country Ham is most available in Southern restaurants.  I find personally that the sliced fried ham is just too tough and salty for my taste, although the old timers swear by it.   The truth of the matter is that up until now I have only cooked two whole country hams in my life, one that was just about perfect and another that was almost inedible. 
…even a well prepared Country Ham is always salty
To ensure success this time, I was determined to learn as much about these unique hams as possible.  Fortunately, our third ham (the one pictured on this post) looked good and tasted wonderful. However, even a well prepared Country Ham is always salty and has a distinctive gamey or high flavor that is not for everyone.
…something akin to boot leather
Once upon a time, the illness Trichinosis was a great concern and prompted cooks of an earlier generation to over-cook pork to something akin to boot leather.  Today’s government standards ensure that commercially cured ham is free of the micro parasites that cause this disease.  To be sure, it is recommended that pork be cooked to reach an internal temperature of 140 degrees.
…soak the meat for a full 48 hours    
Due to the aging process, Country Hams may be covered with mold, however this is harmless.  When you are ready to begin the preparation process; remove the ham’s cloth covering and scrub the ham’s surface under warm running water until it is clean.  Next and this is paramount, soak the entire ham in cold water with a splash of vinegar.  Instructions that I have encountered recommend soaking for a few hours up to overnight.  The soaking not only helps remove some of the salt, but also softens the ham.  My recommendation is to soak the meat for a full 48 hours, changing the water after the first 24 hours.  A large ice chest proved perfect for this chore.
Some cooks like to save it for seasoning…
After soaking, but before cooking, it is practical to trim away the crusty, hard surfaces of the meat not covered by fat.  This “face” as it is sometimes known, is much too hard to eat and makes carving difficult, as well.  Some cooks like to save it for seasoning, but I find that there are always plenty of scraps leftover anyway, and I think that they taste better than the external pieces.  A little seasoning with Country Ham goes a long way for my taste.
…I prefer simmering
The ham can now be cooked in the oven, either by braising (simmering) or baking.  I believe that I prefer simmering.  For this particular ham, we placed it in a large pan with sides, added about an inch of Black Cherry Juice and covered it tightly with foil.  This ham weighed about 15 pounds and recipes suggested various cooking times, ranging from 10 to 20 minutes per pound.
The final formula…
After giving it much thought, we decided on the 20 minutes per pound scheme. However for the record, our cooking time ended up being a little bit longer.  The final formula was 4 hours 15 minutes at 300 degrees.  Upon removing it from the oven, we allowed it to set covered another 20 or 30 minutes.  We then removed the foil, scored the ham and brushed on a Black Cherry/Jack Daniel’s Whiskey glaze.  In the meantime the oven was heated to 425 and the ham returned uncovered to the hot oven for 15 minutes.  Upon glazing, the ham was removed from the oven and set to rest for an hour or so, until we were ready to eat.
…very thin slices
Carving the ham simply requires a meat fork and a long thin (very sharp) slicing knife.  First, the surface rind and excess fat are removed and saved or discarded, as you prefer.  Next, begin to cut very thin slices from across the top, parallel to the bone. Proceed across the top of the ham and then slice on each side of the main bone.  Serve the partially carved ham with some nice slices around it on a beautiful platter. It does make a very dramatic presentation.
…quality and regional tradition lives on.
Although Country Hams are available at many grocery stores in the south, we encourage you to become acquainted with Benton’s Smokey Mountain Country Hams of Madisonville, Tennessee.  Benton’s hams, bacon and other products have found their way on to the menus of some of the finest restaurants in America.  This small company is a treasure where quality and regional tradition lives on.