FOOD OF THE GODS

OUR LOVE AFFAIR WITH CHOCOLATE

Theobroma cacao
Chocolate is produced from the beans or seeds of the tropical cacao tree. In 1753 a Swedish naturalist named the cacao tree Theobroma cacao. The name "Food of the Gods" is from the Greek; “theo" meaning god and "broma" meaning food. This “Food of the Gods” is now widely consumed throughout the whole world. The chocolate with which we are familiar is a mixture of cocoa butter (the fat part of the cocoa seeds), cocoa powder and sugar. Other optional ingredients include milk, spices, nuts, fruits, chilli and other flavorings. Trendy chocolatiers are experimenting with an amazing array of other combinations, such as bacon and chocolate!
…familiar courtship ritual.
Although romantic myth commonly identifies chocolate as an aphrodisiac, this reputed benifit of chocolate may most often be associated with the simple sensual pleasure of its consumption. While there is no firm proof that chocolate is indeed an aphrodisiac, giving a gift of chocolate to one's sweetheart is a familiar courtship ritual. Before any chocolate reaches the consumer it must go through an involved production process that is explained here in a simplified form.

Chocolate Production:
I. Harvesting :
Harvesting cacao beans is a delicate process. First, the pods, containing cacao beans, are harvested. The beans, together with their surrounding pulp, are removed from the pod and placed in piles or bins to ferment for three to seven days. The fermentation process is what gives the beans their familiar chocolate taste. The beans must then be quickly dried to prevent the growth of mold; weather permitting, this is done by spreading the beans out in the sun.

II. Chocolate liquor
The dried beans are transported from the plantation where they were grown to a chocolate manufacturing facility. The beans are then cleaned (removing twigs, stones, and other debris), roasted, and graded. Next the shells are removed to extract the nib. Finally, the nibs are ground which releases and melts the cocoa butter producing chocolate liquor.
There are three things that can be done with the chocolate liquor at this point:
o It can be solidified and sold as unsweetened baking chocolate.
o Cocoa butter can be removed from it and the result is cocoa powder.
o Cocoa butter can be added to it to make an eating chocolate.

III. Blending
Chocolate liquor is blended with the cocoa butter in varying quantities to make different types of chocolate. The basic blends of ingredients for the various types of chocolate are as follows:
o Dark Chocolate is a mixture of cocoa liquor, cocoa butter and sugar, with a 50% to 90% percentage of cocoa.
o Basic chocolate contain at least 35% cocoa and not over 65% sugar.
o Milk Chocolate is a blend of sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor, milk or milk powder, and vanilla. It should not be less then 25% cocoa.
o White chocolate is not really chocolate because it doesn't contain any cocoa solids. White chocolate is a concoction of at least 20% of cocoa butter, sugar, milk or milk powder, and vanilla.

IV. Conching
The texture is also heavily influenced by processing, specifically conching. The more expensive chocolates tend to be processed longer and thus have a smoother texture and "feel" on the tongue, although some producers of specialty chocolates do not conch at all. A conch is a container filled with metal beads, which act as grinders. The refined and blended chocolate mass is kept liquid by frictional heat. The conching process produces cocoa and sugar particles smaller than the tongue can detect, hence the smooth feel in the mouth. The length of the conching process determines the final smoothness and character of the chocolate.

V. Tempering
The final process is called tempering. Uncontrolled crystallization of cocoa butter typically results in crystals of varying size, some or all large enough to be clearly seen with the naked eye. This causes the surface of the chocolate to appear mottled and matte, and causes the chocolate to crumble rather than snap when broken. The uniform sheen and crisp bite of properly processed chocolate is the result of consistently small cocoa butter crystals produced by the tempering process. This provides the best appearance and mouth feel and creates the most stable crystals so the texture and appearance will not degrade over time. To accomplish this, the temperature must be carefully manipulated during the crystallization.

VI. Storing
Chocolate is very sensitive to temperature and humidity. Ideal storage temperature is between 59 to 63 degrees Fahrenheit. Chocolate should be stored away from other foods as it can absorb different aromas. Ideally, chocolate should be stored in a dark place or protected from light by wrapping paper. If chocolate is stored or served improperly it can cause a whitish discoloration or “blooming,” the result of fat or sugar crystals rising to the surface. Although visually unappealing, this chocolate is still acceptable for consumption.

A Brief History of Chocolate
The cacao tree has truly ancient origins. Legends recount that the Mayan God Quetzalcoatl stole the sacred cacao seeds and gave them to mankind, and was punished by the other Gods because this miraculous beverage had been reserved for their exclusive use. In fact, the Mayans were among the first to cultivate cacao trees over a thousand years ago, although the cacao tree was indigenous to the basins of the Amazon and Orinoco rivers. Chocolate was a ritual beverage enjoyed by the elite throughout Mesoamerica and the seeds were even used as currency and as a unit of measurement.
…a luxury for the European nobility.
Columbus and his crew were the first Europeans to encounter cacao in 1502, although the first documented commercial shipment of cocoa beans did not arrive in Europe until the year 1585. The shipment traveled from Vera Cruz (Mexico) to Seville (Spain), where chocolate remained the exclusive domain of the Spanish for some time. However, by the XVII century, chocolate had become a luxury for the European nobility and the Dutch (spurred by economics) successfully challenged Spanish control and dominance.

...philosophy of life and a life style.
In Amsterdam at the end of the XVII century there were 30 factories producing chocolate. The Dutch patented a better processing method in 1828, and began the modern chocolate era. The English are credited with creating milk chocolate, which became immediately popular. Although Belgium and Switzerland are also known for their fine chocolates, both countries began production somewhat later than other Europeans. The Spanish introduced chocolate to Sicily, and at the end of the XVIII century, solid chocolate was invented in Turin. By tradition, the Italians then introduced chocolate to the Royal House of France, becoming a French philosophy of life and a life style.

…an avid fan of chocolate.
Thomas Jefferson, after his return from Europe was an avid fan of chocolate, although it had been imported to the United States as early as 1712. It was not until 1894 however, that the first large chocolate factory was established in the U.S. This was of course, the Hershey Chocolate Company. Hershey’s chocolate remains today as a style of chocolate beloved by most Americans but not nearly as popular with Europeans.

Avanti Savoia’s Chocolates

Chocolats Olivier
The American Revolution was in full swing and Louis XVI was king of France when Olivier opened its doors in 1780. Chocolats Olivier, the oldest chocolatier in France offers a sophisticated line of Grand Cru, Pure Origin and premium Selection chocolate bars. Our Grand Cru collection is made with cacao beans from a specific plantation. These are NOT mixtures of beans from different regions or different plantations. Pure (Single) Origin chocolates are made with cacao beans that come from one specific country and not necessarily from any one specific plantation. Premium Selection chocolates are blends of Criollo and Forastero cocoa beans from different geographical areas.

Hachez Chocolate Company
The German Hachez Chocolate Company was established by a Belgian chocolatier in 1890. After more than a century Hachez continues to make quality chocolate in Bremen Germany, specializing in products with a high cocoa content. The source of this connoisseur chocolate is Ecuador’s Gulf of Guayaquil, where the beans are dried under layers of banana leaves. This is chocolate made by traditional handcrafted methods that satisfy even the most demanding of refined palates.

Chocolate Santander
Adventurous tasters will appreciate Chocolate Santander Single Origin Columbian. The name derives from the state of Santander in Eastern Columbia. The flavors result from the region’s unique geography and agricultural conditions. Centuries-old traditions on small farms are still employed to guarantee outstanding chocolate. Cacao pods are hand harvested with scissors and forks, split open with short machetes, sorted, fermented in wooden boxes, and then sun dried on wooden boards. Any dairy products used by Chocolate Santander are Kosher.

Alberti
The Italian firm of Alberti is famous for making their Strega Liqueur. This expertise has been combined with chocolate resulting in three outstanding liqueur filled chocolate truffles. Alberti is a traditional, old school company dating from 1860. Strega means “witch” in Italian and is a legendary “love potion” and potent elixir. Alberti Magia Nera 70% Cacao Truffle paired with a glass of fine Ruby Port is a combination that is warming, herbaceous, complex and maybe just a little spooky (in a good way)!

Tasting the Chocolate
In essence, like fine vineyards, every cocoa plantation produces beans with signature nuances which ultimately reflect the conditions under which they are grown and cultivated. Likewise each individual chocolatier produces their own unique flavor profiles.

…note just how similar this process can be to wine tasting.
As you approach the chocolate or chocolates to be tasted, notice the sheen and surface texture. The next step is enjoying the chocolate smell or bouquet. This is where you might note just how similar this process can be to wine tasting. Your sense of smell is one of your important (and fun) tools here.

Give the chocolate a chance to reveal its secrets…
After observing and smelling, we arrive at the all important job of tasting. Break off a small piece and listen for a clear snap. Place the piece in your mouth and (this is the hard part) allow it to melt SLOWLY. Take your time here because you may be surprised. Give the chocolate a chance to reveal its secrets. It may be complex and subtle, but clear flavors and sensations are definitely recognizable. Experience the interplay of sweetness, bitterness and richness.

Expect to find some fascinating flavors…
Also, take the time to note the texture and mouth feel of the chocolate relative to the conching or lack of it. Unconched chocolates will be more noticeably grainy and different than conched, but not necessarily better or worse. Trust your own palate and experience. Expect to find some fascinating flavors in quality chocolate reminiscent of licorice, spices, nuts, citrus peels, fruits, vanilla, coffee, tea and a whole range of others.
Chocoholics rejoice; Avanti Savoia is here for you!

A special thank you to Vito De Carolis for his research assistance in producing this post!

Recipes:

Chocolate Sauce
Chocolate & Raspberry Loaf
Dark Choc. Tea Bread
Profiteroles
Queen of the Smokies
Sour Mash Chocolate Icing

OPEN HOUSE CELEBRATION 2009

Our Fourth (and Counting) Annual Holiday Celebration

a bit more red wine…
It was back in December of 2006 that Avanti Savoia celebrated the first holiday open house with a modest gathering of family and friends. The small group enjoyed tasting some of the best extra virgin olive oils and authentic balsamic vinegars in America. At some point a bit more red wine was required and several of the guests made their way to me for a little consultation. I understood their search for good wine but was intrigued by their request for something to be paired with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Our shared passion…
This was my first encounter with the fledgling Avanti Savoia Import Company. Next was an Avanti shopping trip by my wife, Gail and then a number of meetings between me and the three partners, Doug, Ben and Vito. Our shared passion for the “best of the best” helped form a bond and a wonderful working relationship.

a tradition and precedent were clearly established…
The second Avanti open house included a few more family and friends and was an opportunity for me to display some of my culinary creations based on the exceptional Avanti products. Open house number three was not only a chance to share our products but also a celebration of our newly purchased office and warehouse. This time the guest list was expanded considerably and a tradition and precedent were clearly established.

the guests kept right on arriving…
It was determined that to avoid December scheduling conflicts and to encourage early holiday shopping that we would throw this year’s party on the Friday before Thanksgiving. Now, the guest list really has grown and we hoped for a really good response. Ben’s wife, Erin served as our charming “greeter,” and reported that she ran out of name tags at number 165, although the guests kept right on arriving.

our supplies of food and beverages…
Fortunately, our supplies of food and beverages were ample for the demand. For the first time we enjoyed the services of a professional catering service, whom also happens to be our neighbor. Rosa’s Catering is a well known and established service which is especially noted for their delicious, beautiful cakes. We appreciated the efforts of Executive chef Rosa Nussbaumer and her son, Phillip who is the President of the company. You can check their work out for yourself at (www.RosasCatering.com).

the dashing and somewhat mysterious server…
After a warm greeting from Erin, our guests made their way to the wine bar, where they were served by the dashing and somewhat mysterious server working under the alias, Diego Festival. Directly across the room from the wine bar (perhaps as an unintentional balance) was an inviting coffee display of products from our coffee supplier, Vienna Coffee Company. The owner of the company, John Clark was able to personally interact with the guests, informing them about his products and telling stories surrounding his venture into the world of coffee roasting. Watch for an entire blog soon to be devoted to Vienna Coffee.

“Formaggi”
After finding a beverage of choice, attendees passed into our warehouse and found themselves face to face with our intrepid Italian partner, Don Vito de Carolis. Vito was serving samples of our fantastic new line of Italian cheeses, along with his encyclopedic knowledge and tales concerning all things “Formaggi.” We will be providing these great cheeses on our website very soon along with an informative post.

the real heart of our open house…
A few feet away from the cheese center, guests found the real heart of our open house, a 24 foot buffet offering a taste of some of our best “Culinary Treasures from Around the World.” This tasting featured over 35 products out of our inventory of approximately 500 items.

compare… and experience for themselves…
Rather than just viewing pictures in our catalog or on our website, visitors could compare great extra virgin olive oils and experience for themselves the delights of authentic balsamic vinegars. Also included were delicacies from Italy, France, Spain, Texas, Hawaii and the ever popular Lowcountry of the Southeastern US. As a matter of fact, a runaway favorite was the Lowcountry Sweet Potato Butter piled on Gail’s Homemade Southern Biscuits. Of course, our excellent chocolates from Olivier, Hachez, Alberti and Tortas from La Serentissima found an appreciative audience, as well.

“shooters”
Just to make sure no one left hungry, Rosa’s Catering supplied Mushroom Bruschetta, Crudités Nouveau and a luscious Goat Cheese Torta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Pesto.
The caterers also served “shooters” of Lowcountry Gazpacho.

…serious foodies of all stripes…
We were thrilled to see such a great response to our invitations. Loyal customers mingled with friends, family and serious foodies of all stripes. The diverse collection of people also included community and business leaders, chefs, food writers and stylists, cookbook authors, a local radio personality and the directors of a regional food pantry. Our party goers were also encouraged to wander up and down the aisles of our warehouse discovering and selecting their own choice of products.

gratitude that we owe to so many friends…
It truly was a grand occasion that we enjoyed very much, but we are also very aware of the debt of gratitude that we owe to so many friends. Among those that we need to extend special thanks to are: Kathy Slocum, Erin Slocum, Zach Slocum, Gail Lowery, Sheri Treadwell, Linda Ullian Schmid, Diane Cole, Julie and Peter Wolf and many others. The photos on this post are provided courtesy of Bruce Cole Photography, (www.brucecole.com).

CHILI!!!

October was National Chili Month

…the bedrock of Tex-Mex cooking
As I write this post, I am deeply contemplating the phenomenon that is Chili. I can’t help but wonder if there is any other dish that inspires such devotion and enthusiasm and yet provokes such controversy and debate? I’m not about to claim any sense of objectivity or neutrality here. After all, I am a natural born Texan and I do appreciate the gravity of that responsibility! If there is one item to point to as the bedrock of Tex-Mex cooking, it is Chili.

…proof of the true origin
Chili as we know it, undoubtedly originated in the experience of the Southwestern cowboy/vaquero culture. It was traditionally a stew of chili peppers, spices and beef or whatever meat was available. There is also a longstanding tradition of Chili being cooked and sold on the streets of early San Antonio by the “Chili Queens”, but proof of the true origin is hard to come by.

…one of the more important issues in the free world
Not only is there little agreement as to the origins of the dish, there is absolutely no universal definition of Chili even within the Lone Star State itself. The truth is that most Texans consider the Chili that they grew up eating to be true Texas Chili. I think that this is probably true for just about everyone regardless of their region of the country or their style of chili. In an endless argument about what is “real” Texas Chili almost everyone has their opinion: add tomatoes or not, thicken with flour, Masa or nothing, the cut of the Chili meat, types of chili peppers, mix of spices and seasonings, beef stock water or beer and of course, one of the more important issues in the free world…beans or no beans. Did I mention that I am available for a cabinet level appointment as Chili Czar?

“Each of us knows that his chili is light-years beyond other chili…”
To quote a famous Chili man, H. Allen Smith, “That is the way of Chili men. Each of us knows that his chili is light-years beyond other chili in quantity and singularity; each of us knows that all other Chili is such vile slop that a coyote would turn his back on it.” What makes this statement especially hilarious to me is the fact that it is just the way I feel. I really do think that my version of Texas Chili is the best that I have ever tasted. Apparently, I have a lot of company; everyone seems to think that their chili is the best.

…some aberration from the city of Cincinnati
There is not even agreement in my own castle, as I married a girl from Ohio who has her own ideas about the meaning of Chili. First of all she insists on kidney beans in her Chili and then rambles on about some aberration from the city of Cincinnati served on top of spaghetti and then layered with a bunch of other stuff. In my horror I retreat to a statement from the 36th President of these United States, Lyndon Baines Johnson, “Chili concocted outside of Texas is usually a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing. One of the first things I do when I get home to Texas is to have a bowl of Red. There is simply nothing better!”

“No talking to imaginary people”
I have to admit that one of the first things that I do after arriving in the city of Austin is to make a beeline to The Texas Chili Parlor for exactly the same reason. This hole in the wall restaurant has been an Austin institution since 1976. Located just a short distance from the state capitol and the University of Texas campus it is still a haven of funky atmosphere and local color. Now, here is a proper bowl of chili, made with chunks of beef, tomatoes and seasoning. Crackers, chopped onion, grated cheese and jalapenos are served on the side and of course, no beans. How could you go wrong in a place whose rules include “No talking to imaginary people?”

…thousands of chili recipes
Check the internet and you can find literally hundreds if not thousands of Chili recipes (or at least they claim to be Chili recipes). Vegetarian Chili, White Chili, Black bean Chili, Peggy Goldwater’s Arizona Chili, New Orleans Style (served over rice), and Cincinnati Style (we won’t go into that again). There is even a Tennessee dish that is a survivor of the 1982 World’s Fair in Knoxville named Petros, which is a layered creation of corn chips, chili, cheese, green onion, tomato, black olives and sour cream. Except for the black olive part I actually like Petros quite a bit, they remind me of a dish (not quite so complicated) that my Mother used to make back in the 1950’s called a Frito Pie.

…deer meat by itself and beef in my chili
I am part of a Texas clan descended from Choctaw ancestry and hunting was a huge part of our family’s culture. Therefore, I had the opportunity to sample Venison (deer meat) Chili many times, although I actually prefer my deer meat by itself and beef in my Chili. I also enjoy making Chili Verde New Mexico Style, which although it is muy delicioso in my book, it is not classical Chili, but rather chunks of pork stewed with green chilies, onions, tomatillos and herbs and spices.

Although, I never had the opportunity to share a bowl of Chili with President Johnson, I do have his favorite homemade Chili recipe.

Pedernales River Chili
(Pronounced Per-duh-now-lees by Central Texans)

4 lbs. chili meat (coarsely ground round steak or well trimmed chuck)
1 large onion
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. ground oregano
1 tsp. cumin seed
6 tsp. chili powder (more if needed)
2 cans tomatoes with green chilies
Salt to taste
2 cups of hot water

Put chili meat, onion and garlic in large heavy boiler or skillet. Sear until light-colored. Add oregano, chili powder, tomatoes and hot water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer about one hour. As fat cooks out, skim.

... the recipe sounded really tasty, but…
Well now, I wouldn’t want you to get the idea that the high art of Chili making is a partisan issue, even though tons of the stuff has been served at political gatherings at least since Texas entered the union. It was my intention to post a recipe for the Bush Families’ favorite chili, but I simply couldn’t find a specific recipe for their favorite. I did find a recipe in White House Chef cookbook by Chef Walter Scheib. Chef Scheib served as chef for both the Clintons and the G. W. Bushes. The chef’s recipe is called Three-Bean Chili and at the request of Mrs. Bush, contained no meat. I admit that the recipe sounded really tasty, but I’m simply not willing to recognize it as real Texas Chili.

“I absolutely swear to you that this is true!”
So, I went back to the Reagan years and found this recipe right away. The only real argument that I would have with the “great debater” would be the red wine (well, he was from California), the beef base (nasty, awful, salty junk) and the beans (at least they used pinto beans). I never had the chance to share chili with President Reagan either, although I did once enjoy a Martini with him! I absolutely swear to you that this is true!

President Reagan’s Favorite Homemade Chili

Serves 16

½ cup bacon drippings
2 cups chopped onions
4 chopped garlic cloves
2 pounds coarsely ground beef
4 cups canned whole tomatoes, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 Tablespoon salt
4 cups cooked pinto beans

Directions:

Using a 1 ½ gallon pot, melt bacon drippings. When hot, sauté onions and garlic cloves. Add ground beef and chili powder. Stir until meat is well browned. Add red wine (optional). Add salt, beef base, tomatoes, bay leaf and sugar. Simmer chili meat, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring often. Add pinto beans to the meat. Simmer chili for 1 hour, covered over low heat, stirring gently from time to time. Test for flavor.

…my definitive recipe
So… I doubt that anyone really follows a recipe to the letter. I know that I seldom measure the ingredients (unless it is for publication) and each batch of chili is slightly different. Keeping that in mind, here is my definitive recipe for some mighty good chili.

Chef Joseph’s Texas Chili

Ingredients:
1 Tablespoon olive oil
2 ½ lbs. coarsely cut ground beef (the coarser the better)
2 green peppers, chopped
2 white onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced and mashed
¼ cup Masa (corn flour)
One 12 oz. bottle of beer (room temperature)
3 or 4 Jalapeno peppers, minced (or to taste)
1 28 oz. can of stewed tomatoes
1 Tablespoon Oregano
2 Tablespoons Ground Cumin
2 Tablespoons chili powder
1 Tablespoon Sage
1 Tablespoon Ground Black Pepper
1 Tablespoon Smoked Salt
2 Tablespoon parsley, chopped
2 teaspoons Red Wine Vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
3 1/2 cups beef stock

Directions:
(1) In a large soup pan, heat olive oil and brown meat in batches and set aside. Add chopped peppers, onions and garlic to hot grease and cook 4 or 5 minutes.
(2) Add Masa and cook over a low heat for another five minutes, stirring often- it will stick!
(3) Add beer, minced Jalapenos, and tomatoes; bring to a simmer and stir in the browned meat.
(4) Continue simmering and add the rest of the ingredients. Cook a low simmer for two hours, stirring often. Do not let the chili stick or scorch!
(5) Taste for seasoning and serve with crackers, chopped onions and grated cheddar cheese. If desired serve a pot of pinto beans on the side, but NEVER add beans to Texas Chili.

…the pride, honor and glory of the Republic
Texans are fanatics about their chili (which is as it should be). The elements that contribute to the authenticity of this recipe are the following: Coarsely cut beef, Masa (corn flour), Jalapeno peppers, cumin and chili powder and no beans. Undoubtedly, there are a few (misguided) purists that will object to several of my ingredients (green peppers, tomatoes, mixture of herbs?), but I say let them share their complaints and inferior chili recipes with the coyotes! The truth is that I’ve tasted a whole bunch of awfully good chili concoctions in my day. However, the fun of the argument eternal about what is real chili is just too much fun to resist. Never do I forget that when I make Texas Chili; the pride, honor and glory of the Republic rest squarely on this old cook’s shoulders!

Beans on the side, Damn it!

UNDER THE FIG LEAF

A Cookbook for Fig Lovers

“The food from the cookbook was absolutely amazing, creative, unexpected and completely unique.” –Kathleen Finch, General Manager, DIY Network, Knoxville, TN

Writing anything is serious work, but when it comes to a cookbook, the only way that anyone could appreciate the work involved is to have written one or be near someone that has. Sherri Parker Lee has learned the truth of this statement with the publication of her brand new cookbook UNDER THE FIG LEAF. Sherri has made Knoxville, Tennessee her home for many years, taught at Webb School for 10 years and is chair of the board for SSC Service Solutions.

Why Figs?
She is a native of the state of Texas, where she has great memories associated with the abundance of figs. To answer the question “Why Figs,” she states, “Simple: Figs trigger sweet memories of conversations around a fig tree on warm summer evenings with my family in Texas, of sitting on the front porch or even on the viaduct as we watched the trains pass by. Ever since those childhood times, I’ve felt fig trees should be the symbol of summer – with leaves so broad and green, and their lush sweet fruit so tasty. My family ate most of what we picked each day, but Grandmother would save some to make great preserves we could enjoy all winter. It’s that simple: figs represent a return to family, home and cherished memories of events and people who have had a profound influence on my life.”

What would I do with so many figs?
At first Ms. Lee had great difficulty in producing a crop of figs in her adopted home in the Southeast, but “Later, when I moved to a new home in Tennessee, I built a tall wall with a southern exposure. The new environment brought success, but also another problem. What would I do with so many figs? I shared them with other fig devotees, but when you have a crop of figs, you have them immediately and abundantly. My challenge was to discover new and delicious ways to enjoy them- a wonderful project.”

Sherri needed help…
Sherri Lee had been collecting fig recipes for years with the notion of someday publishing her own cookbook. Along the way she realized that assembling a collection of recipes was the easy part of a cookbook. Sherri needed help testing, editing and food styling for the photographs. She turned to her friend, noted food stylist and culinary expert, Linda Ullian Schmid. Linda not only has the talent to create beautifully styled food, but also possess an impressive resume that includes marketing, recipe development and head of the cooking school division for Southern Living Magazine. She was also Director of Marketing for the famed Blackberry Farms Inn and has coordinated and developed programs for many other big league corporate clients.

…a figgy fun time it was!
Linda and I met a number of years ago working as food stylists on projects for HGTV and The Food Network. We formed a very complimentary team that continues to this day and this is how Avanti Savoia and I came into the fig picture. Linda invited me to join her in the project and what a figgy fun time it was!

Some of the results were instant hits, others complete losers…
For weeks, Linda and I rendezvoused in Sherri’s well appointed kitchen to test and test and test more fig recipes than any of us can probably remember. Some of the recipes were Sherri’s; some shared by her friends and others were liberal adaptations of classic favorites. Sherri was also extremely receptive to us developing our own specialties, all including figs, of course. Some of the results were instant hits, others complete losers, but onward we marched. We were off to a good start thanks to Sherri’s fresh figs and the good products provided by Avanti Savoia.

...sampling for quality control was de rigueur, of course.
We started at the height of fig season last summer, so as to be able to take advantage of the fresh harvest. We often noted how romantic and picturesque it was to start our work day by wandering through the Lee gardens picking baskets of fresh figs. Immediate sampling for quality control was de rigueur, of course. Sherri’s homemade “fig picker” (created from a worn broom handle, two hose clamps and an eye hook), made reaching the higher branches much easier, as well. Picking fresh figs also involves dodging scores of wasps, which fortunately we were able to do without any stings. Sherri notes that “Most U.S. fig trees have a genetic alteration that allows them to produce figs without pollination. However, the California Calimyrna fig tree requires the fig wasp, a symbiotic egg-laying insect, for pollination.”

Sherri names the Brown Turkey as her choice…
Introduced to America about four hundred years ago, fig cultivation is now widespread in California and the Southern US. There are literally thousands of cultivars and fig aficionados all have their favorites. Sherri names the Brown Turkey as her choice, but she also appreciates several other varieties including Celeste, Negronne, Hardy Chicago, Kadota, LSU Purple, Italian Honey Fig, Black Marseille and Petite Negri.

The Greeks knew what they were talking about.
Figs (Ficus carica) were highly valued by the ancients of the Mediterranean world and in fact one of the earliest plants cultivated by humans. The book notes, “The Greeks… believed figs were a perfect food that ensured good health and they ordered the citizens to eat figs daily. The Greeks knew what they were talking about. Figs are fat-free, sodium-free, cholesterol-free, and high in dietary fiber. Figs are a high-energy, nutritious fruit, rich in vitamins, calcium, phosphorous, and iron. Each fig has twenty to fifty calories, depending on size and type, (they) are easily digested, and contain disease-fighters like antioxidants, polyphenols, and phytosterols.”

…useful information about everything “figgy.”
Sherri Lee’s new cookbook is filled with over 130 recipes, from appetizers to desserts, all based on figs. The gorgeous food photography is by Charles Brooks Photography. In addition to delicious fig recipes (which I can personally recommend), the book also contains useful information about everything “figgy.” Included are facts about fig history, preparation, selection, freezing, drying options, packaging, and storage tips. Of interest to gardeners is a horticultural guide for the cultivation of fig trees.

If you love figs…
Additionally, the book also provides product resources information that includes Avanti Savoia Imports. We feel certain that the excellent quality condiments, extra virgin olive oils, Grissini breadsticks, balsamic vinegars, sea salts, chocolates, honeys, Panettone and other products provided by Avanti Savoia only helped to enhance Sherri Lee’s delicious recipes. We are also most pleased to offer autographed copies of UNDER THE FIG LEAF for sale on the Avanti Savoia website. If you love figs as we do, this is a perfect addition to your culinary library! (LINK) Included here are a couple of fig specialties to prime your appetite for more.

FIG WALNUT BREAD

Makes 2 loaves

1 package active dry yeast
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup sugar
1 cup warm water
3 cups bread flour (unbleached white flour)
¼ cup wheat bran
1 ½ sea salt
½ cup figs, coarsely chopped, stems removed
½ cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, chopped
1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

(1) In a very large bowl combine the yeast, oil, sugar and water. Whisk together and put in a warm place to allow the yeast to activate, about 10 minutes.
(2) When the yeast has become foamy, stir in 1 ½ cups of the flour, the wheat bran and salt. This will form a “sponge.” Set the “sponge” in a warm place, cover with plastic wrap and a damp towel and allow to rise (proof) for 30 minutes.
(3) Stir in the figs, walnuts, orange zest and rosemary. Add the remaining 1 ½ cups flour, plus a little extra if needed to make a smooth dough. The dough should not be too sticky or too dry. Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead until elastic and smooth, about 3 to 5 minutes.
(4) Return the dough to bowl and lightly oil all surfaces. Cover with plastic wrap and a damp towel, put in a warm place and allow to rise (proof) for 1 hour.
(5) Punch the dough down using flat side of your palm and allow to rise for an additional 30 minutes.
(6) Knead the dough for 1 to 2 minutes and form into 2 loaves (either round or rectangular). Place the on lightly oiled cookie sheet. Using a sharp paring knife, make a few shallow slashes across the tops of the dough, being careful not to cut through the dough.
(7) Put dough in a warm place and allow to rise until doubled in size, about 30 to 45 minutes.
(8) Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
(9) Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Before the loaves get too brown, and when they make a thumping sound when tapped, remove from the oven and brush with the egg wash. Return to the oven and bake until golden, about 5 more minutes.

Serve with:

Classic Fig Honey Butter

1 cup butter, room temperature
!/2 cup dried figs, finely chopped, stems removed
2 teaspoons brandy
2 Tablespoons honey
Pinch of salt

(1) Cream together all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl until creamy and smooth.
(2) Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
(3) If using Fig Honey Butter on bread, pancakes or muffins, it is best to let it sit out on the counter and soften for easier spreadability and better flavor.

Special thanks to Pat, Erin, Ian, Robin and Seth. Bon Appetit fig lovers!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil and What You Need to Know.

Traditions, Myths, Lies and Facts

Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years
The story of the cultivation of olive trees, their fruit and the oil pressed from the olives goes hand in hand with the story of Western civilization. Olives have been pressed for their oil for over 6,000 years, although the earliest history of olive cultivation can vary with the source of your research. Did olive trees first appear in what is now Syria and then spread to the rest of the Mediterranean basin, or was it the other way around? It is thought that wild olives were collected by prehistoric peoples as early as 8,000 BC.

...source of great power, wealth and influence
We do know that this evergreen is one of the world’s oldest cultivated trees. Olives are a member of the family Oleaceae which includes flowering plants such as forsythia, lilacs and jasmines. To the Greeks it was far more than simply a food; although olives and olive oil were one of their main sources of dietary fat. The oil of the olive was also employed for body care, soap making, fuel for lamps and a host of other uses. Besides as part of their regular (and healthful) diet, olive oil was surrounded by an aura that was medicinal, mystical and even magical. It was the source of great power, wealth and influence.

…low in saturated fat and high unsaturated fat
Modern medicine is confirming many ancient attitudes towards olive oil with evidence of many health benefits that are to be had by including the oil in our diets. This is especially true with extra virgin olive oil because of the lack of processing. The benefits of olive oil are due partially to its high content of fatty acids and polyphenols, which are antioxidants. Olive oil is also low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fat. Studies suggest that consumption of olive oil may offer protection against heart disease, high blood pressure, rheumatoid arthritis and even some cancers. Olive oil is highly digestible and helps with the body’s assimilation of vitamins A, D and K.

…ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century!
Olive cultivation did spread from Greece to Italy and Spain and today these three countries lead in both production and consumption. Olive trees are an iconic and inherent part of the Italian landscape and olive oil is produced in all regions of Italy except Piedmont and Valle D’Aosta. Throughout the highly diversified climates of Italy’s different regions there are an estimated 2.5 million acres devoted to olive trees. Some of these are truly ancient specimens, being several hundred years old. In fact, some of our own producers have examples of those ancient trees that were planted in the thirteenth century! A very sad fact is that there is currently a serious problem with trafficking in old specimens of olive trees. Very sad because not only are the old trees dug up, stolen and removed to the properties of unscrupulous buyers, but also because many of the trees ultimately die from the trauma.

…producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil
Italy has hundreds of olive oil producers ranging from small farms to huge commercial operations. The very best oils come from small producers who have complete control over their orchard, the harvesting of the fruit, the pressing of the olives, and the storage and eventual bottling of the product. They create only a limited number of products from a specific harvest from a limited number of trees. They do not press olives for any other farmer or from any other region. Avanti Savoia’s preferred producer is a family-owned and operated farm. “Artisan” is a fair and accurate term with which to describe these unique producers. To be selected as an Avanti Savoia artisan, producers must be absolutely “fanatical” about their oil and every aspect of its production. Often, the farm has been in the family for years, and in many cases, generations. The finest extra virgin olive oils are produced from olive trees that are cultivated without the use of pesticides and some are produced using entirely organic methods. Olive trees require a long, hot growing season and in the late winter or early spring (like grapes) proper pruning.

…the experience and judgment of the picker
Traditionally and ideally, the olives for extra virgin olive oil are picked by hand at a stage of ripeness that is half green and half red/brown. The olives must not be harvested by the calendar but rather by the experience and judgment of the picker. Each olive is hand selected at the exact moment it reaches the proper maturity to produce the highest quality of flavor and nutritional value.

Ripe olives are easily bruised...
Additionally, the press and the bottling facility must be readily available, ideally on the farm itself. Ripe olives are easily bruised and must be held in small containers before pressing in order to avoid being squeezed by their own weight and begin deterioration. A controlled environment with ultra sanitary conditions is paramount. The pressing process must be accomplished in the briefest time possible.

…all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed”
The best oils are pressed within a few hours, and certainly not to exceed 24 hours after the harvest, any delay beyond this time frame has a detrimental effect on the quality of the oil. The pressing to extract the oil must happen quickly and at a controlled temperature of (ideally) of less than 80 degrees F. This does constitute “cold pressed,” but this term is primarily a marketing device, as all authentic extra virgin olive oils are “cold pressed.” The freshly pressed oil is filtered, stored in stainless steel containers and saturated with an inactive gas until bottling. The actual bottling of the oil must be in very dark green or brown bottles. Before the bottling a scientific check must be run to verify chemical and organic characteristics of the oil. Professional experts also are responsible for tasting the oils in order to evaluate the many flavor and sensory aspects.

Some …oils are blends and others are made with a single cultivar
As in the growing of grapes, climate, type of soil (terroir), variety of olive (cultivar) and the time of harvest account for the different organoleptic (flavor, bouquet and other sensory) properties of different oils. Some extra virgin olive oils are blends of several varieties and others are made with a single cultivar. Avanti Savoia markets olive oils made from blends (Montecroce, Pruneti, Colonna and Le Magnolie) and oils from only one cultivar (Marcinase from Coratina olives, Cassini from Taggiasca, and Geraci using Nocellara del Belice).

Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue…
Extra virgin olive oil and wine also share the same “enemies:” heat, oxygen and light. Olive oils have a relatively short shelf life and once the bottles are opened and exposed to oxygen, the oils will naturally begin to break down and lose both their organoleptic and nutritive properties. Freshness therefore, becomes a huge issue, although older oils can still be excellent cooking oils. Storage after purchase is also important. If possible, extra virgin olives oils are best stored in a cool, dark place like a cabinet. Do not store or display your oil on or near your stove or on a window sill.

…a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity
The flavors of fine extra virgin olive oils can also be just as complex as in the nuances in fine wines. Generally this is considered to be a balance between peppery or pungent, bitter and fruity. Other sensations can run the gamut of flavors, again just like wine tasting; mild, intense, rich, delicate, full bodied, buttery, vegetal, nutty, floral, grassy and many other adjectives limited only by the taster’s sensitivity (and vocabulary)! Excellent extra virgin olive oil is neither bland nor neutral, although it is true that different oils are best suited to different culinary uses. Colors may range from green to golden to pale yellow, although color itself is not an indication of the oil’s overall quality. In fact, at official IOOC tastings, samples are served in dark colored glass so as not to influence the tasters.

Different standards for quality and flavors are set by several different organizations.

The European Community (EU):
Extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality and is considered to have the most perfect taste. In an organoleptic rating system of 10, it has a minimum rating of 6.5. This excellent extra virgin olive oil has very low acidity (1% or less), and is untreated.
Olive oil has a minimum organoleptic rating of 5.5 and a 2% maximum acidity and is also untreated.
All other olive oils involve production techniques that include treatments.

International Olive Oil Commission (IOOC)
The IOOC recognizes two categories; Olive Oil and Olive Pomice Oil. The Olive Pomice Oil is not fit for human consumption and so we will not delve into it here.
The IOOC requires that Olive Oil must not be adulterated with any other type of oil; further it must be obtained solely by mechanical means that do not alter the oil and pass tests for genuineness and purity. The IOOC divides Olive Oil into three types, although it is only the first two that really concern us.
Extra virgin olive oil is judged to have zero defects with less that 0.8 acidity. It is the highest rated.
Virgin olive oil is ranked slightly lower than Extra virgin with defects not over a specific level and less than 2% acidity.
There is a third rating, Ordinary virgin which is inferior oil used for industrial purposes and not even approved by the EU for bottling.

United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has an antiquated grading system and the US is not a member of the IOOC. Therefore the IOOC’s standards have no legal standing in the US, which means deception and fraud are unfortunate possibilities. Labeling descriptions and terms offer no guarantees either. Remember that “first pressed, cold pressed extra virgin olive oil” is simply a marketing term. All extra virgin olive oil is by definition the first pressed and it is processed cold. There is no second pressed extra virgin oil. Labels proclaiming to be 100% olive oils or “Pure” olive oils are often processed blends. “Light” blends refer to a lack of flavor not calories, as all olive oils contain the same 120 calories.

Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils
In the July 2008 issue of Cook’s Illustrated an article on olive oil states, “Is the supermarket the best place to buy your extra virgin olive oil? Unfortunately, we’d have to say no.” Authenticity can only be assured by purchasing from very reliable companies that have personal and authentic ties with the actual producers. Vito De Carolis is an Avanti Savoia Partner and our resident olive oil expert. Vito is a native of the city of Turin and extremely familiar with producers of fine Italian olive oils. For years Vito scouted the country for the best extra virgin olive oils for his own personal consumption and now he does the same for you. Vito has personally visited each of our producers during their harvest and observed their practices in great detail. This experience allows us to provide our customers with what we consider the “best of the best.” This also enables us to offer our products with 100% assurance of quality and authenticity.

“Caveat emptor”
In a now famous article a couple of years ago, The New Yorker alleged that because regulations can be so lax, fraud is rampant. This is especially true with bulk producers who adulterate their oil and take advantage of the possibilities of inaccurate labeling. A label can suggest that oil was bottled in Italy and is a product of Italy, but does not have to mention that the olives were not grown or the oil not produced in Italy. Remember “Caveat emptor,” let the buyer beware!

…olive oil “fanatics”
At Avanti Savoia, we are proud of our status as olive oil “fanatics.” We will continue to search Italy for this “culinary treasure” and go to great lengths to bring you the finest extra virgin olive oils at the very best price. Live long, love well and enjoy extra virgin olive oil.

Buon Appetito!

THE JOY OF JULIA

No question about it, it is a Julia Child summer. The day I’m posting this is (Aug. 13) exactly 5 years after her death at almost 92. America has rediscovered and fallen in love again with the culinary Demi-goddess. The book, the movie and just about every publication on the market right now has some “Julia” story to tell or some take on the phenomenon.

…not my first admiring commentary
In the face of such a barrage of “all things Julia,” I will also add my thoughts to the din, but will defend myself slightly by noting that this is not my first admiring commentary about the great lady. My first recorded statement concerning her was in the cookbook that I co-authored in 1980’s, not the current summer of ’09.

“Serve your mistakes…”
A Texas Family’s Cookbook was published way back in 1985 by Texas Monthly Press. In the preface, among other ramblings I wrote, “Due to such step-by-step books as Mastering the Art of French Cooking and to the work of other modern culinary pioneers, Americans began to embrace French cooking. We were able to attempt, successfully, beautiful French classics, and we learned not to be disheartened by failures. To paraphrase Julia’s attitude on her television show, she told us things like ‘Serve your mistakes-they’ll never know.’ This led to a vastly broadened appreciation of French cooking.”

…few assumptions and lots of explanations
Most French cookbooks of the time (before 1960), were written by French chefs in French, then translated into English, and assumed much expertise on the part of the reader. Then, in 1961 came the publication of volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. This book was a detailed approach to the art of cooking with few assumptions and lots of explanations. Also, it had beautiful illustrations by Julia’s husband, Paul Child. It was followed by a second volume of the same title and, in early 1963 by the famous “The French Chef “cooking show on Boston’s public television station.

TV cooking show as entertainment…
Every celebrity chef cooking show and personality today owes their existence to this seminal event. Long before the term “foodie” became a familiar part of our day to day conversations, Julia had sown the seeds. Absolutely and without question in my mind, Julia created the “TV cooking show as entertainment genre,” that we take for granted in today’s world. Even the less than sentimental Anthony Bourdain wrote…” the saintly Julia Child sought to raise expectations, to enlighten us – teach us – and in fact did…”

…her innate generosity
It was not just her cooking expertise, amazing confidence and colorful personality that has secured her place in the public’s imagination, even though those gifts should not be underestimated. Her talents were enormous, but it was another aspect of her character that made her more than the sum of her parts- her innate generosity.

…enthusiasm and encouragement
There were no “chef’s secrets” that Julia tried to conceal, no elitist celebrity distance that she sought to maintain. Her enthusiasm and encouragement to other aspiring chefs and authors is legendary.

…culinary “gospel”
As a young cook in the early 70’s seeing her shows had certainly been inspiring and fun. It was her books; however that were for me culinary “gospel.” I never considered cooking all the recipes in her books, but I knew friends who did or at least claimed that they did. Many times, I found myself consulting volume I or II of Mastering the Art of French Cooking for some dish or technique that I had claimed as part of my repertoire and was required to prepare professionally. More than once, I found myself up in the wee hours of the night perfecting a recipe, being guided step by step by Julia Child.

I was as excited as though I was meeting royalty…
I have never forgotten it either and always felt a great sense of personal connection with her, as did thousands of other fans and cooks. So, when the chance came to actually meet her in Seattle in the mid 80’s, I was as excited as though I was meeting royalty, a rock star or great entertainment figure, which in a very real sense, I was.

…the book had been well used.
My book had just been released and I wanted to present her with a copy. I didn’t imagine that it would be of any real use in her kitchen, but I did hope that she would be pleased by my thoughts expressed in the Preface about her contribution to American cooking. Of course, I took my old battered and food stained copy of Mastering the Art for her to sign, which she and husband Paul, graciously did. She also noted that the book had been well used. That signed copy remains one of my career treasures to this day.

…not even my own name.
Upon receiving the gift of my book to her, she politely asked that I sign it, as well. Just for the record this was one of the first times I had autographed the book, as it was newly published. I sat down and opened the book, took pen in hand and sat there. If I had made any mental notes about what I was going to write at that moment it was lost to me entirely. In a lifetime of food service and catering, I have certainly met my share of celebrities. This though was somehow different. I was star struck, I couldn’t think of a thing, maybe not even my own name.

…being from Texas and all
The Childs waited patently with the statuesque (6ft. 2) Julia towering above Paul and smiling at me. I think that after a few minutes (she must have had plenty of experience with this sort of thing) it dawned on her what my situation was. Then, in that distinctive and singular voice she came to my rescue, saying in a stage whisper, “You know Joseph being from Texas and all; you could sign your books with Bon Appetit Y’all!” With that suggestion she relieved me of the autographing angst and gave me a theme and a story to last the rest of my life. This is a story that I have told at the conclusion of my cooking classes, programs and demonstrations for many years and I always will.

Thank you Julia and Paul and Bon Appetit Y’all!

Pilgrimage to the Blue Ridge; a Promise Kept

“…Remembering speechlessly we seek the great forgotten language, the lost lane-end into heaven, a stone, a leaf, an unfound door.”
- Thomas Wolfe

I’m not a native son of the southern mountains although I am an enthusiastic adoptee. A huge part of the area’s attraction for me (and everyone else) is the magnificent mountains, ridges and foothills. In my younger (and slimmer) days, I seemed to find plenty of time to hike, camp, fly fish and generally spend quality recreational time in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, National Forests, state and county parks. Along the borders shared by Tennessee, Georgia and North Carolina, there are some absolute paradises for outdoor enthusiasts.

“getting away”
Now, for the last 14 years or so, my wife, Gail and I have owned a few acres with some beautiful features. Sometimes, when we plan getaways and we have found ourselves noting that many of the enticements offered are already available to us. Privacy, quaint cottage, wood burning fireplace, babbling brook, and winding trail through the woods; really everything but a mountain view is literally in our own back yard. I have written about this before, but not for one minute do we forget that we are indeed blessed. Still, there is something about “getting away” and even just strolling a little in a beautiful setting.

...one of the last remaining virgin forests
Recently, upon a return trip from Atlanta, I found myself with an extra day in which to wander along some remote roads in northern Georgia and North Carolina. This included the magnificent Cherohala Skyway, which stretches some 40 miles from Tellico Plains, TN to Robbinsville, N.C. Near Robbinsville, one can find the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. A moderately strenuous walk will bring hikers to one of the last remaining virgin old-growth hard wood forests left in the southern mountains. These giant trees over 400 years old surely must inspire some kind of poetic descriptions in even the most un-literary of observers.

…the luxury of time
Many other trails and quite walkways abound and most have few visitors. Being as I had the luxury of time (which I rarely allow myself), I took advantage of the lovely weather and just walked. When described it sounds very simple; trees, birds, cascades of musical water; just quietly experienced. With that quietness, I found myself trying to remember the last time I had spent much time on a mountain trail, much less on one by myself. Ten years? However long it has been is way to long, and I solemnly promised myself that at least every couple of months that I would fit in a day or two in the wilderness, just to experience a little solitude.

…one of the most scenic roads in America
So, about 2 months later, I made good on that promise with a brief trip to Asheville, NC and a leisurely ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway. In the state of North Carolina alone, the Parkway includes 469 miles of almost indescribable beauty. The Blue Ridge Parkway meanders along the crests and ridges of the southern Appalachian Mountains through four National Forests. This gorgeous drive ranks as one of the most scenic roads in America.

“jet setters”
However, to begin my mini vacation, I made a quick excursion to Asheville, N.C., which is a vacation Mecca unto itself. Surrounded by the spectacular Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville is the largest city in western North Carolina. Downtown Asheville is home to more flashy Art Deco architecture than any other Southeastern city except perhaps Miami Beach. The city and Buncombe County have been appreciated as a peerless resort area since the 19th Century, when George W. Vanderbilt and friends made it a destination of the “jet setters” of his day.

…unimaginable world of wealth and luxury
Of course, no description of Asheville is complete without mentioning his Biltmore Estate, a 255-room mansion completed in 1895 and modeled after several 16th Century French chateaux (www.biltmore.com ). To describe the mansion, designed by architect Richard Morris Hunt, as “America’s National Treasure” is no overstatement. Self-guided tours take visitors through an almost unimaginable world of wealth and luxury. The vast Estate grounds are the result of the genius of landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmstead, whose other notable project was New York City’s Central Park. Also located on the 75 acre Estate is the Biltmore Estate Winery, Inn, gift shops and restaurants.

…Altamont
Asheville was the birthplace of one of the truly great figures of American literature, Thomas Wolfe. It is also the location of the Thomas Wolfe Memorial and one of his boyhood abodes, “The Old Kentucky Home.” This was a boarding house operated by Wolfe’s mother and known as “Dixieland” in Wolfe’s towering masterpiece, Look Homeward, Angel. The novel was first published in 1929 and has never been out of print. Asheville is called Altamont in the novel and Wolfe’s portrayal of the town’s residents was deeply resented at the time, although now that is all in the distant past.

…curious rituals
Indeed, the mountain town is bursting with possessive civic pride concerning all things Thomas Wolfe. Wolfe’s writing is not without its critics, but it was my admiration for the man’s work that drew me to Asheville on a kind of literary pilgrimage. I was drawn to curious rituals like touching his writing desk, rocking on the front porch of his home and reading his work sitting on a park bench near his grave. Did I think that a tiny fraction of inspiration might be transferred to my own modest efforts at blog writing?

…don’t laugh
No, don’t laugh; it was really not anything so grandiose or pretentious. I do think the experience held a deeper meaning for me that others have experienced and expressed so eloquently and forever beyond my skill. Pat Conroy, author of Prince of Tides, wrote “I kept catching myself holding my breath as I read Look Homeward, Angel. I had not recognized that the beauty of our language, shaped in sentences as pretty as blue herons, could bring me to my knees with pleasure-did not know that words could pour through me like honey through a burst hive or that gardens seeded in dark secrecy could bloom along the borders and porches of my half-ruined boyhood because a writer could touch me in all the broken places with his art.”

…suitable spot for dinner
It was in my post Thomas Wolfe reverie and musing that I began a search in downtown Asheville for a suitable spot for dinner. I had not made any reservations and had none of the culinary intent that so often accompanies my travels. My favorite spot for local Barbeque (North Carolina Barbeque vs. Texas is a whole different blog) was not open on Sundays. However, as exciting and creative a place as Asheville has become, there would certainly be something to rouse my interest, I reasoned.

…Zambra
Sure enough, just a half block off Broadway at 85 Walnut Street, I came across a small colorful sign advertising a Tapas and Wine Bar named Zambra, which according to their website is “Arabic for flute, a wild bird, Flamenco danced at a family gathering, a Moorish festival...” In a short time I found a convenient parking placed and entered the restaurant hoping for the best.

…the very definition of eclectic
The interior was cool and dimly lit with some pleasant yet unobtrusive jazz playing in the background. The décor is the very definition of eclectic with a mixture of exposed pipes, arches and other touches of Spain. I was seated in a small alcove with comfortably cushioned furniture complete with brocaded pillows. Although the setting was perfect for a romantic encounter, it also gave just enough privacy to not feel uncomfortable seated alone in the middle of a crowded dining room.

…pretty ambitious
The restaurant offers a Menu de la Noche as well as a separate list of specials. All in all, there were over 3 dozen listings of options, which I thought pretty ambitious for a small kitchen. They also presented a wine list with over 200 bottles, which has won several Awards of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine including the most recently announced awards.

…just as delicious as it was intriguing
I love to eat and prepare Tapas myself, so I was excited to get started with a glass of nutty Amontillado and study the menu. The Sopa del Dia, which was one of the chef’s daily creations, caught my eye. My well informed waitperson, Pamela Wellman offered me an encouraging description. The dish proved to be just as delicious as it was intriguing. What arrived was a chilled pear soup with a drizzle of ancho and maple glaze, topped with a dollop of whipped cream with walnuts. Pamela was quick to assert that regardless of the description, the soup was “not too sweet.” She was right and in fact I thought the combination was first rate and really a perfect match with the sherry.

…confidence
Now, I was in a convivial mood and the soup had established confidence in both the kitchen and my waitperson (which is always a good thing)! I thought that their House marinated Olives with Preserved Lemon was a logical choice and I particularly enjoyed it being served warm. My “small plate” entrée was Pan Roasted Veal Sweetbreads with Turnip Puree, Plums, Pea Shoots and Ancho Foam. The sweetbreads were delicate and tender and I was thoroughly pleased. For the novelty of it, I did indulge in Root Beer Flan for dessert and although interesting, I would still have to leave it in the “novelty” category.

…a gem worth discovering
Pamela, my waitperson confided in me her thoughts concerning the range of the kitchen’s creativity. Her view is that it stems from not only the skill of Chef Adam Bannasch, but also from his willingness and encouragement of the rest of his team to indulge their creative ideas as well. It works; Zambra is a gem worth discovering.

…mind boggling views
Continuing north of Asheville, the grandeur of the Blue Ridge continues uninterrupted for many miles. The mind boggling views alone are worth the trouble, but there are dozens of interesting diversions, as well. Art and craft enthusiasts will enjoy the Folk Art Center at Milepost 382. The striking facility houses exhibits, demonstrations, workshops, special events and a craft shop.

…highest point east of the Mississippi
Many of the scenic overlooks along the way have access to primitive trails and there are many improved sites with visitor’s centers, as well. One high point (literally) is Mount Mitchell State Park, which is the highest point east of the Mississippi and ideal for an easy walk to the lookout tower and a great picnic spot. Further along the Parkway is Linville Falls, which includes not only the dramatic falls themselves, but a moderate 1.6 round-trip to view them. Cool, beautiful weather and the chance to see the blooming rhododendrons made my promise to do more hiking an easy one to keep.

…Yadkin valley wineries…another promise to keep
This mountain road does seem to go on forever, but my journey ended up in the little village of Blowing Rock, NC. This is a very picturesque place with interesting shops, restaurants, festivals and loads of charm. It is also the gateway to the Yadkin Valley Appellation. The Yadkin Valley is North Carolina’s first federally recognized American Viticultural Area with 24 wineries and several hundred acres devoted to grape growing (www.visitncwine.com). However, it was obvious to me this trip was at its end. The considerable allure of the wineries would have to wait until another time, perhaps when my wife would be able to enjoy the wine tasting with me, as well. As much as I enjoyed my couple of days of hiking and solitude, I did note how often I thought of her and the fun we would have on the next trip sharing my new discoveries and delights. Now, there is yet another promise to keep.

RAZZEL DAZZEL BERRIES

The harvest depends on the amount of rain, sunshine and attendant humidity. Not all years are the same, but each summer we anticipate some kind of a crop of wild raspberries (Rubus strigosus). Wild Raspberries are native all across North America, but are also related to the Eurasian variety (Rubus idaeus). Indeed, all raspberries and blackberries are members of the rose family (Rosaceae). Technically, they are not even berries, but rather “an aggregate fruit of numerous drupelets around a central core.” There are red and black raspberries, which both have hollow centers. True blackberries have solid centers.

Experience has shown us that the period between Independence Day on the 4th of July and Bastille Day on the 14th of July is the primo season for picking these luscious little jewels. Our particular source for raspberries is the tangles of brambles that seem to grow in just about every corner of our little farm, as well as along the fence rows in our neighbor’s fields. These are definitely wild berries as we have never planted or even tended them. In a good year we can harvest a gallon or two a day; even more with a little help from our friends. Often, we have hosted a “berry pickin’ party” on July 4th. Friends and family equipped with harvest baskets fan out along the creek, fence rows and sunny banks of our property.

Fairly quickly the pickers find their rhythm and favorite techniques for the harvest. One begins to recognize the “just right” color and appearance of the perfectly ripe berry. If they are not ripe enough, they are a little harder to pluck, not to mention a tarter taste. Too ripe and they fall apart as you pick them, but when just right, they roll gently into your hand and then into your basket or mouth.

Part of the fun and pleasure is grazing on the choicest berries as you fill your basket! The only drawbacks are the sharp thorns on the canes and the fact that wild raspberries and Poison Ivy (genus Toxicodendron) seems to always grow in the same places. One always needs to beware of snakes when sticking your hand into shady thickets where the choicest berries seem to be. Not that this has ever been a problem for us. In fact, in 14 summers of picking we have never encountered even one of the slithering critters.

Naturally, this hot and steamy work requires sustenance and libations. Smoking or grilling our dinner is usually part of the fun, but the raspberries always take center stage. In previous years, we have celebrated with Raspberry Margaritas and Raspberry Daiquiris. This year however, we concocted a pitcher of Raspberry Lemonade that could be enjoyed just as it was or enhanced with a shot of Tito’s Vodka (a favorite spirit of ours that is produced in Austin, Texas.)

We also enjoy a Kir Royale or more precisely, a Kir Imperial. A Kir Royale is a glass of champagne or sparkling wine with a splash of Crème de Cassis, whereas a Kir Imperial is sparkling wine doused with a raspberry Liqueur. Whichever drink we choose, we enjoy adding a few ripe raspberries to the glass. If you need to ease your conscience a little while indulging in these delights, then you can take comfort in the fact that raspberries contain high levels of antioxidants, Vitamin C and other nutrients. (Feel better)?

Although tarts, cobblers, crème brulees and clafoutis are also terrific, my personal favorite is a simple bowl of ripe berries, a little sweetening and a splash of cream. Also, chocolate and raspberries are natural partners. I love a good chocolate torte with a rich ganache icing topped with fresh raspberries. Looks good, tastes great, but the berries will go bad or even moldy if not eaten quickly. A very simple, true gourmet extravaganza can be created by drizzling plain ripe berries with a little balsamic vinegar.

Raspberries are highly perishable and very fragile. They do freeze well however, either whole or pureed and strained. They can then be used at your convenience to prepare jams, jellies, drinks, sauces, ice cream, sorbets, granitas, desserts, etc. etc. Whether made with the fresh harvest or from frozen puree, my wife Gail’s jellies are a treat we enjoy year round and are always highly appreciated as a gift. A nice, hearty breakfast in the dead of winter is particularly comforting with hot biscuits and a generous serving of last summer’s wild raspberry jelly.

GAIL’S WILD RASPBERRY JELLY

INGREDIENTS
5 cups (approximately) ripe wild raspberries (fresh or frozen)
One 1.75 ounce Package of Sure Jell Fruit Pectin
½ teaspoon unsalted butter
5 ½ cups sugar

INSTRUCTIONS
(1) Crush and puree berries in a blender. Strain out seeds. This should result in about 4 cups of raspberry puree.
(2) In a large pan, combine Sure Jell with puree and bring to a boil.
(3) Add ½ teaspoon butter to prevent foaming
(4) Boil for a few minutes and add 5 ½ cups sugar. Return to a hard boil and turn off heat. A tablespoon or so of brandy can be added at this point if desired.
(5) Sterilize six 1 pint canning jars and fill with hot jelly. Cover tightly with lids and rings and turn upside down for a couple of hours. You should hear a “popping” sound as each jar seals.


Visit our new Avanti Savoia Recipes and Cooking section and check out these recipes using berries.
Blackberry or Raspberry Consommé
Raspberry Sauce (Coulis)
Blackberry or Raspberry Mousse
Raspberry Ice Cream
Raspberry Crème Brulee
Chocolate Raspberry Loaf Cake

SUPER DUPER DAD’S DAY SPECIAL

June 21st
It is also time to be thinking about the next popular celebration on the horizon, Father’s Day. The first recorded observation of an American Father’s Day occurred on June 19, 1910. But it was left to then President Richard Nixon to establish our permanent observation of Father’s Day on the 3rd Sunday in June.

Those… that… contributed to the quality of our lives
We think that it is a great idea to acknowledge not only our Fathers, but also those Father figures that mentored us and contributed to the quality of our lives. This is easy enough to do with a simple greeting or the ubiquitous humorous card. Father’s day present giving offers opportunities, both simple and complex.

Gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages
Certainly, gift giving is different at Dad’s different ages and the family’s different stages.
Mangled breakfast in bed and crayon scrawled cards are just fine for young families. Teens probably will focus on gifts pertaining to Dad’s sporting interests and hobbies (like cooking, for instance). However as Dads age and find themselves in the categories of Grand Dads or even Great grand Dads, I think it is fair to note that the game plan can change.

I hate breakfast in bed
I know that in truth, I hate breakfast in bed and I darn sure don’t want more things to clutter up my house and require some kind of care. Cards are just fine, thank you, but the kinds of gifts that I really enjoy now are items that I can consume or immediately use. Like many guys, when I want a new tool or toy, I just go out and buy it. This being said, gift cards at home improvement centers, hardware store or specialty stores are gifts that I really enjoy and will use. (Also, very easy for the giver)!

A first rate dinner for the big guy
Even though eating any food in bed is not my cup of tea, having someone cook for me definitely rings my chimes. This Father’s Day at Avanti Savoia, we thought we would assemble a reasonably priced collection of our products that would make it very easy to “stir up” a first rate dinner for the big guy. Here are a few ideas and Avanti products that could be appropriate for any aged giver or receiver. Preparing our menu is very “kid friendly” and as viable for a beginning family as it is for a romantic occasion for empty nesters. Check this out.

AN AVANTI SAVOIA FATHER’S DAY MENU

Starter: Our savory Onion Cracker (Le Schiacciatine Cipolla) spread with a little goat cheese (Chevre) or cream cheese and topped with our Low Country Garlic Pepper Jelly.

Main: Savoia Egg Fettuccine, (delicious and fast cooking) served with Low Country Tomato Sauce, sautéed Italian sausage and finished with a little shaved Parmesan Reggiano.

Dessert: Creamy Chocolate Brownies using our brand new product, Alchemy Spice Brownie Mix. Add to that a steaming cup of high quality 100% Certified Bolivian or Mexican Coffee from another of our new suppliers, Café Femenino. This is a unique coffee company that benefits women coffee producers. Your purchase helps enable these producers “achieve empowerment, build social and support networks while earning incomes.”

You can get this recipe along with our products from our recipe section. Go to Recipe

Everybody wins
Everybody wins and all that you have to supply from your grocery store is the Chevre or cream cheese, Italian sausage, Parmesan, 1 stick of butter and 2 eggs. Our Super –Duper Dad’s day Special includes all the rest. Our very best Avanti Savoia wishes for a super- duper Father’s Day!