Gone to Texas Part II

Part Two: ROMANTIC SAN ANTONIO

San Antonio is located about 80 miles southwest of Austin, but it is well worth the effort to make a little detour on the way and visit the historic community of New Braunfels. Founded by German settlers it is located in the heart of the Texas Hill country. The little town has interesting hotels, restaurants and plenty for visitors to do. We felt that we had to make a stop at New Braunfels’ Naegelin’s Bakery, because it is 139 years old and the oldest bakery in Texas. Try their sausage or fruit Kolaches as well as their famous strudels. A cup of coffee and a treat from Naegelin’s will be just about right to help you finish the journey to San Antonio.

The Alamo City is one of the great tourist destinations in America. Downtown San Antonio profited greatly from the improvements left from their World’s Fair held in 1968; most notably, the charming Paseo del Rio or Riverwalk. Although the Riverwalk was designed in 1929 it was the renovation for the Fair that made it the magnate for visitors that it is today. The length of the Riverwalk is crowded with a warren of eateries and watering holes. One can hear a wide range of live music ranging from Mariachi bands to excellent jazz. Hotels and beautiful Cypress trees line the banks; one ancient titian is reported to be three hundred years old. One of the most pleasant ways to see the sights is by taking Rio San Antonio Cruise. The cruise lasts for about 40 minutes and includes a really informative narrative while you float along 2 ½ miles of the river.

We did make a food stop at the Casa Rio Restaurant, were we once again were tempted by the chili, which we found excellent. Do stick with a cold cerveza and skip the sangria. Schilo’s Delicatessen is not strictly speaking on the Riverwalk, although it is right around the corner on East Commerce. Established in 1917, it is a San Antonio institution serving German Deli food and pitchers of their glorious homemade root beer.

Mi Tierra Café y Panderia (Bakery) should be at the top of anyone’s restaurant list while visiting San Antonio. This San Antonio landmark has been serving Mexican food since 1941. The restaurant is located within the old Mercado and shopping can still include clothing, leather goods, paper mache’ art, blankets, and pottery. Mi Tierra is open 24/7 and is often the last place to visit after a night of revelry in the city.

We began with a Margarita and their Botanas platter of assorted appetizers. We especially enjoyed their assorted nachos and the refried beans. I was determined to sample the Enchiladas de Polla en Mole. Chicken Enchiladas in Mole Sauce which is a rich dark brown sauce that contains some dark chocolate. It doesn’t much taste like chocolate but it does taste wonderful. My wife opted for the Menudo, a beef tripe stew that is famous in the Southwest, among other things for being something of a hangover cure. Does it work? We didn’t have the necessary buzz going to be able to test it, but the locals swear by it. More because it was there than because we were still hungry, we did order the Vanilla Flan and Dulce de Leche Cheesecake. There also literally dozens of Mexican pastries and candies that you may order from their Panderia (bakery). In my many years of visiting San Antonio I do not believe that I’ve ever missed the occasion to dine at Mi Tierra.

Millions of tourists visit and most make a stop at the Alamo- its real name being the Mission San Antonio de Valero. It is one of five historic Spanish missions laid out over about an eight mile stretch of the San Antonio river. These Franciscan missions were not in the strictest sense just churches, they were walled communities. They became small Indian towns, complete with bastions of fortified towers. The missions in some cases had small living quarters built in the walls themselves. There were churches within the complexes of course. Today those historic sites are still active Roman Catholic Parish churches, as may be noted by service schedules and worshipers quietly praying even in the midst of visiting tour groups. I love visiting these old missions, there is always something soothing and serene about them. I have thought many times about how far away from their home these Franciscans were and the challenges they must have faced bringing their religion and culture (for better or worse) to the new world. It was the missions in the southwest that first introduced viticulture to America because of their need for wine for Mass.

Gone To Texas (Part I)

The first installment of a three-part personal Texas travel log

Part One: THE NEW AUSTIN

GTT was the message left scratched upon many a cabin door in Tennessee, Kentucky, the Carolinas and other states as the early settlers moved to Texas. Off they went with their families, possessions, hopes for a new life and in some cases dreams of empire. The phrase went through my mind over and over as my wife and I winged our way through the clouds recently on a long over due trip to the Lone Star State.

My personal dreams were of family, friends, Bar-B-Que, Mexican food, Texas Chili and beautiful springtime weather more than of empire. Lady Bird Johnson called April in Texas, “the queen of seasons.” not only because of the nice weather but because of the mass blooming of the State Flower of Texas, the lovely Bluebonnet. It is a sight indeed to see acres of the Lupines growing across the Texas landscape.

As I have family in several parts of Texas, we had the perfect excuse to visit a number of cities and geographic areas on our journey. Visitors to Texas are often surprised to discover just how different one part of the state may be in comparison to another part, and as we all know it is a big place. The different cities in Texas have very different personalities and there are a great many cultural influences in certain areas resulting from influxes of immigrants from various countries.

An easy flight with no problems delivered us to the new Austin airport, followed by a disorienting cruise through the downtown which left us with no doubt that the capitol of Texas has CHANGED! Certainly seeing anything through the eyes of youth is a limited vision, but the old Austin with its colorful and tolerant mixture of students, academics, artists, beatniks, hippies, musicians and politicians is no longer a quaint little town. We did enjoy seeing the occasional bumper sticker proclaiming “Keep Austin weird!”

As a refuge from modern downtown, my sister Pam Thomas, my wife Gail and I headed straight to one of my old haunts, The Texas Chili Parlor. An Austin institution since 1976, the restaurant is located just a short distance from the state capitol and the University of Texas campus. It is still a haven of funky atmosphere and local color. Their menu offers three levels of heat in their chili- X, XX and XXX. There was a time in which the XX was just right but I have to admit it was a bit fiery for our taste now, although quite delicious with big chunks of meat and a very authentic flavor. I don’t think we could have handled the triple X at all… better to just admit the truth. Here is a proper bowl of chili, made with beef, tomatoes and seasoning. Crackers, chopped onion and jalapenos on the side and of course, no beans in the chili made it the perfect intro to Texas chow. How could we go wrong in a place whose rules include “No talking to imaginary people?”

I love Bar-B-Que; I grew up eating it at restaurants (mostly take-out, actually) and watching my Dad prepare it. One of the facts that I have learned is that different regions of the country have completely different cooking methods and sauce recipes. All Bar-B-Que fans have their favorites and are usually very passionate about their preferences and that includes me too! With a limited schedule, we had to choose a couple of restaurants out of dozens. Our first choice located just west of Austin in the little community of Driftwood was The Salt Lick Restaurant. In a rustic building constructed of locally quarried stones, you can find some of the best BBQ in Texas. These are ranch recipes handed down by the Thurman Roberts family from the time of the civil war. My extended family took three vehicles to transport all of us to this culinary Mecca. Upon entering we were welcomed by the sight of a huge, round, open pit full of savory meats.

Simple picnic tables and benches furnish the dining room and the setting lends itself to family style although the menu does feature individual plates and sandwiches, as well. Platters of succulent beef brisket, pork ribs and Elgin sausages are accompanied by the expected side dishes. The feast continues as long as the diners can eat and homemade peach cobbler and pecan pie are available if you dare. The meats are also available by the pound and they have an extensive mail order service. This restaurant has won plenty of awards and has been recommended by many reviews and critics.

A few days later we dined again on excellent Bar-B-Que in a casual downtown Austin setting, The Iron Works. Situated in a building that originally housed the Weigel Iron Works founded by Bavarian immigrants, it is recognized as a registered Texas Historical Site. Examples of their iron art can be seen in the Texas State Capitol, museums and historic homes throughout the state. The Texas State Capitol Building should be a priority for sightseeing visitors, anyway. The restaurant enjoys a national reputation with many celebrities of the entertainment and political worlds. But, it was the promise of the Iron Works Beef ribs that had me inspired. Pork ribs are also available as are sliced and chopped beef. The menu also features smoked pork loin, chicken ham, hot sausage and turkey. Sandwiches, chili and meats by the pound can be ordered as well, but it is those monster beef ribs enjoyed with an icy Lone Star Beer that stand out in my memory!

“Contemporary Texas Cuisine” was what lured us to Jeffrey’s Restaurant, a 30-plus year Austin tradition. This comfortable neighborhood eatery still sets the standard for Austin bistro cuisine. My wife and I were joined by Austin chef Donald Wertz as a threesome for fine cuisine and service. Chef Alma Thomas excelled preparing our meal while impeccable service was offered by veteran server Johnny Guffey, who has been voted Austin’s best waiter.

My companions started with delicious soups – Lobster and Roasted Pepper Bisque and a Vichyssoise with Crispy Prosciutto. However, I thought my selection of Crispy Oysters on Yucca Root Chips with Habanera Honey Aioli was the standout. Entrees included Halibut, Ahi Tuna and a particularly savory Glazed Duck and Shrimp with Black Beluga Lentils. Girard Sauvignon Blanc ’06 worked fine with the numerous diverse flavors and out of curiosity (as opposed to hunger), we enjoyed a Vanilla Cream Brule, Lemon Mousse and a lavish Italian Cream Cake Parfait.

If there is one restaurant in Austin that best represents Texas elegance and southern hospitality it is the stately Green Pastures. Called the “Grande Dame of Austin Restaurants” the establishment was founded over 60 years ago by cooking personality Mary Faulk Koock and her husband, Chester. This Texas legend is situated in a fine old Victorian home dating from the 1890’s. The restaurant sets in the midst of ancient oak trees and beautiful lawns complete with roaming peacocks. The ghosts of Presidents, Governors and other celebrities still walk the halls of this beautiful, old south Austin home. Although, Chef Charles Bloemsma fills his lunch and dinner menus with many contemporary touches, it is the Sunday buffet that we think best represents the character of the storied restaurant..

A glass of milk punch laced with spirits begins the feast- a recipe so well known that it appears in one of the Jack Daniels’ cookbooks. Then, it is on to what has to be the very definition of the Sunday buffet. The menu does change somewhat due to the seasons and the whims of the chef, but there are still many favorites that have appeared for years. A sample menu appears on their website, but you can always expect to find many delicious choices. The Eggs Benedict, although served in a chaffing dish was both fresh and delicious. There is no lack of side dishes with their signature Cotillion rolls and other savory offerings arranged on the sumptuous buffet. Expect a spread of “house made” desserts including the famous bread pudding with whiskey sauce. Sunday Buffet at Green Pastures is a delicious reminder of gracious times gone by.

Our visit to Austin wasn’t only about visits to restaurants but became a working vacation by helping my brother, Catering chef David Lowery. He is often assisted by our sister, Pam and so the kitchen staff became a family affair and marked the first time the three of us had worked together. David’s client was a former Lt. Governor of Texas and his elegant wife. The occasion was a fundraising affair held in a dining area of the couple’s spacious wine cellar, decorated by the occasion by noted floral stylist, Alejandro Granados.

Passed appetizers included Pastry Cups filled with Pecan Wood Smoked Salmon topped with a delicately fragrant Fennel Salsa. Guests were also served Prosciutto wrapped Pan-Roasted Asparagus. The first course featured Tri-colored Pepper Crab Cakes on a bed of field greens drizzled with Remoulade Sauce. Our entrée of Smoked Tenderloin was excellent served with a sauce of Shitake Demi-Glace. The plate was rounded out by sautéed baby vegetables and Mashed Potatoes laced with Tartuflanghe White Truffle Salt. A cheese plate came next with fresh strawberries dressed with Balsamic Vinegar. The dessert was a rich slice of Queen of the Smokies chocolate cake with fresh raspberries, Raspberries Coulis and Madagascar chocolate sauce. The host provided a parade of exquisite vintage wines to match the menu.

David Lowery also managed a cookout the next day for family and old friends to be able to visit with me and my wife. The man is talented and hard working and his efforts were deeply appreciated. We were so pleased at the cookout to see and spend some time with another notable chef, Pamela Nevarez. Pamela is very successful in her own personal chef business, Eat Street Personal Chef Service, and a dear friend. Pamela has allowed me to print her recipes in the past and hopefully will again. We were sad to leave such good times in Austin behind, but off we went toward San Antonio and more culinary adventures.

Next: Romantic San Antonio

Many thanks to Matt Kreider of Austin, Texas for the amazing picture of the "UT Clock Tower" ~hook'em!

MUSHROOM PARADISE

A Simple Springtime delight


Allow me to begin with an admission; I do love grand cuisine at fine restaurants as well as certain dishes that require long cooking times and tending. Dishes such as braised meats, stew, certain sauces, and stocks as well as Creole etouffees and yes, Texas Chili all comes to mind. Now having acknowledged that fact let me share one of the great joys we anticipate on our property every spring. In early April each year we begin to scout out the forest floor under a stand of Tulip Poplars for the elusive (and delicious) Morchella esculenta.

Commonly known as the Morel mushrooms, they are also known locally as “dry land fish” and can occur throughout North America. The old-timers were well aware of them and prepared them usually by rolling them in cornmeal and frying them in hot fat. The black morels, Morchella elata seem to be the most available, although we are blessed to be able to find the yellow or white morel, sometimes called the “Honeycomb Morel.” These little gems can grow to be much larger than black morels and are astoundingly succulent.

They can be cooked a la crème, in sauces, flans, ragouts, omelets and as garnishes in a good many European classics. Available dried or canned, it is in their freshest state, prepared simply that we enjoy them the most. We prize this springtime ritual so much, that although choice fresh morels can fetch around $25 a pound we would not even think of parting with them except to be shared with really special friends.

Some years produce a generous morel harvest while others do not- it all depends on the amount of rain, when it rains, early spring temperatures and probably other subtle conditions of which I’m not even aware. I can however, report on how much fun it is to hunt for them and how very delicious they can be. Last year’s harvest was a bit scarce but this year (’08) is a good season.

I have mentioned our “mushroom patch” to Doug Slocum, founder of Avanti Savoia and someone that qualifies for “really good friend” status. Doug has eaten black morels before and had not been all that impressed. So, I was excited to share some nice specimens with him when they first appeared this spring. I explained the cleaning process and suggested that he grill his mushrooms much like a piece of meat.
Doug appeared the next day smiling and excited. “The mushrooms were delicious and incredibly easy to prepare, they tasted like steak and were the best damn mushrooms that I’ve ever eaten,” he said. This is just what I had hoped to hear from someone with such a developed palate.

Now, we must insert a word of caution before we share a few easy recipes. I have been hunting selected wild mushrooms for over 35 years. I have received instruction from botany teachers from two different universities and field experience with a number of knowledgeable amateurs. I particularly remember the opening words from a retired University of Washington Professor. “Hunting wild mushrooms is a one hundred percent activity. You must be 100% sure of identification, a 99% guess can kill you,” he solemnly warned. Take this to heart! You must be very sure of your harvest! Do not attempt to identify wild mushrooms from a guide book. “Hands on” training is required. That having been said, here are some ideas for preparing fresh morels.

Cleaning:
Cut off the “foot” of the mushroom just above the dirt line. Slice the mushroom lengthwise, lightly rinse and soak them in a solution of salt water for about 1 hour. This should remove any bits of sand or soil and dislodge any little critters. Make sure that after removing from the salt water that the morels are well dried before cooking.

Grilled:
This is as easy as it gets and fabulous with a nice steak. Again, carefully dry the split morels and brush with one of Avanti Savoia’s extra virgin olive oils that have been seasoned with a little minced garlic, salt and pepper. Of course you can jazz it up with herbs, lemon juice, etc., etc., but do not cover up the marvelous fresh mushroom flavor.
Place the seasoned morels over hot coals and cook until they are just lightly marked. Do not overcook these babies and eat ‘em while their hot!

Beer Batter Fried:
Here is a basic recipe for Misto Fritto, classic Italian mixed fried vegetables. It also works great with any kind of mushroom. Also, if you are lucky enough to have fresh squash or pumpkin blossoms from a summer garden, this is the way to cook them.

Ingredients for batter:
4 eggs, beaten
1/3 cup beer
2 cups all-purpose flour

About 3 cups oil* #19999 Avanti Savoia All-Purpose Cooking Oil for frying
Sel de Mer* #35021 (fine sea salt) to taste

Recipe:
1. In a large bowl, beat together the eggs and beer.
2. Place the flour in a large bowl right next to the eggs/beer.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan until very hot.
4. Flour the morel pieces, shake off any excess, and dip into the egg mixture.
5. Shake off excess egg and begin frying a few at a time turning as needed to lightly brown. Remove with a pair of tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat until all of the mushrooms are cooked. Sprinkle with the salt and enjoy.

Sautéed Morel Sandwiches:
Clean morels as for other recipes. Sauté in hot oil or butter, turning until tender. Place on a paper towel to drain and make a sandwich using toasted whole wheat bread, mustard flavored mayonnaise, fried bacon, and slices of fresh tomato. Think of it as a BTM- Bacon, Tomato and Morel sandwich. The old BLT will never be the same!




NOTE: We usually serve morels with beer or a dry Riesling and have never experience a problem. Some mushroom guides do however warn of upset stomachs when morels are served with alcohol.


Chef Joseph Lowery is the Chef Consultant at Avanti Savoia. He has worked as a chef, author, and cooking instructor since 1971.

WINE AND CHOCOLATE TASTING WITH THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY

Two of life’s great pleasures experienced together can be full of surprise, education and even mystery.

My experience with the American Wine Society goes back to 1991, when I was invited to do a cooking demonstration for a regional AWS convention. The demo was well received and I was drawn into Society membership for what would prove to be a long and happy relationship. In 1993, AWS held their national convention in Tennessee, and I was asked to chair the food committee. This gave me the opportunity to help plan the menus and other dining activities for 500 wine enthusiasts. The chef and staff at the host hotel did an excellent job and I think the event is fondly remembered. Over the years, I’ve attended wonderful tastings and consider my experience with AWS to have been vital to the development of my palate.

The American Wine Society has functioned for over 40 years as an informational and educational organization. The AWS is a nation-wide society of amateur grape growers, winemakers, and wine appreciators dedicated to learning more about the history, production, appreciation, and use of wines. The American Wine Society Educational Foundation also provides college scholarships relating to the wine industry. There are 5,000 AWS members belonging to over 110 local chapters. It was at the East Tennessee Chapter meeting; where we recently had the opportunity to experience what has become a subject of widespread interest- the pairing of wine and chocolate.

Each distinct layer of a menu can be matched with a corresponding wine creating a glorious procession of flavors (or sometimes not). Paring wine with the dessert course offers its own challenges and exciting rewards. Traditionally this has been as simple as just serving a wine a little sweeter than the dessert dish itself. Often the dessert wine was served after the dessert without particularly trying to match them at all.

A time honored formula for pairing wine and food is to strive for flavor combinations that produce harmony, contrast or both. It is both the obvious and subtle components within food flavors interacting with the relative complexity of the wines that produce such amazing results. Some combinations seem crystal clear while others are deep and thoughtful.

I think many of us have discovered the profound complexity and depth of flavor offered by pairing wine and chocolate by accident, such as by having a bite of chocolate at the end of a meal with a bit of the remaining wine. However, amateur and professional tasting events featuring intentional wine and chocolate combinations are now occurring quite often. Highly qualified tasting panels are gathering, tasting and pronouncing judgment in a variety of contexts. Informal home events are becoming popular as well. These home editions are easy to prepare for and fun to host. It is interesting to compare your findings to those of the experts. Although, we still encourage you to respect your own opinions as well as learn from the findings of the “experts”.

For this event of the East Tennessee AWS chapter we chose the fine chocolates from Chocolats Olivier, one of the renowned chocolatiers in France synonymous with quality and excellence. Founded in 1780, Olivier is the oldest chocolatier in France producing a wide variety of high end artisan chocolates.

Olivier produces a sophisticated line of Grand Cru, Pure Origin and premium Selection chocolate bars. The Grand Cru is a collection of five different chocolate bars; each of which is made with cocoa beans from a specific plantation. These are NOT mixtures of beans from different regions or different plantations. In essence, like fine vineyards, every cocoa plantation produces beans with flavors which ultimately reflect the conditions under which they are grown and cultivated.

We tasted three Grand Crus and one flavored Selection for our affair. The three Grand Cru chocolates are derived from single plantations located in Venezuela, Papua New Guinea and Madagascar. Pure Origin chocolates are made with cocoa beans that come from one specific country and not necessarily from any one specific plantation. While a Grand Cru is more like a varietal from a specific vineyard, a Pure Origin is more comparable to a blend from an entire wine region. Premium Selection chocolates are blends of Criollo and Forastero cocoa beans from different geographical areas.

During the last year or so, we have tasted all of the Olivier chocolates with a wide range of wines. Tough work, but we persevered in order to come up with some good combinations. Tasters, beginners as well as more seasoned palates, will note the similarities utilized in tasting techniques for both wines and chocolates. Two of life’s great pleasures experienced together can be full of surprise, education, and even mystery. This experience can not only change the way you think of wine and chocolate, but can enhance the way you taste other flavors as well.

Al Porrell, a former National President of AWS and a participant at this tasting remarked that “this was a very effective experience that changes everything.” Al noted “I would not have paired chocolate with these wines but it was a new experience in which I really learned how to taste the two together.” Porrell thought that the sweeter wines were a better match, but also enjoyed the Champagne with the chocolates as well. He went on to say “this falls exactly within the objective of the AWS to appreciate wine and food together. Many food pairings have yet to be discovered, every one of us have different thresholds of flavors. The key is to trust your own palate and continue to taste.” Bob and Judy Kryter commented that they felt the Petite Sirah was their favorite “all around” wine with the dark chocolates. Bob expressed that he particularly enjoyed the Gewürztraminer with the Ginger/Orange bar. Bob is the current Chairperson of the AWS Education Foundation. We do have some heavy hitters in our chapter!

TASTING NOTES

As you approach the chocolate or chocolates to be tasted, notice the sheen and surface texture. Proper tempering and storage of the bars should result in a nice shiny surface
free from discoloration or “blooming.” The next step is enjoying the chocolate smell or bouquet. This is where you can really begin to experience just how similar this process can be to wine tasting. Your sense of smell is one of your most important (and fun) tools here. By all means make notes and discuss your tasting partners’ impressions, as well. After observing and smelling, we arrive at the all important job of tasting. Break off a small piece and listen for a clear snap. Place the piece in your mouth and allow it melt slowly. Take your time here because you may be surprised. Give the chocolate a chance to reveal its subtle secrets. It will be complex and delicate for sure, but clear flavors and sensations are definitely recognizable. Experience the interplay of sweetness, bitterness and richness. Expect to find some fascinating flavors in quality chocolate reminiscent of licorice, spices, nuts, citrus peels, fruits, vanilla, coffee, tea and a whole range of others. This is heady stuff for a food and wine lover!

We began our event with the Extra Dry sparkler and the proceeded through four reds specially matched with our dark chocolates. After the formal tasting we then enjoyed a host of chocolate desserts provided by the participants matched with the remaining wines of their choice.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry N/V- WA. State (Quaffing Wine)
“… rich, golden sparkler with abundant bubbles… with flavors of pear, guava and kiwi.”

Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2005- Napa paired with a Venezuela Grand Cru.
A young, simple California Cabernet showing a balance that works well with many dishes. This wine with its black cherry and boysenberry aromas and cedar, currant and pepper notes produces a sensual creaminess when matched with the earthy nut and raisin flavors of the Venezuela chocolate.

St. Francis Red 2005- Sonoma is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel.

This wine is an easy to drink, everyday favorite with its light cherry and fruit flavors. The Papouasie (Papua, New Guinea) Grand Cru has hints of tea, citrus and a slight smokiness that seems to soften the wines tannins and offer a nice vanilla balance.

Bogel Vineyard Petite Sirah 2005- Lodi is considered to be Bogel’s heritage varietal.

It begins with a berry, black pepper and herbal nose and finishes with toasty oak and lush fruit. The Madagascar Grand Cru is one of our favorites from Olivier. It shows notes of citrus, passion fruit and cinnamon and its long delicious finish works quite well with this “jammy and inky” wine.

Robertson Winery Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2007- South Africa

The perfumed and spicy nuances of this wine are right at home with the light citrus and warm ginger notes of the Selection Dark Chocolate flavored with Ginger and Orange. From opening the wrapping and observing the deep dark color and enticing aroma to savoring the slow melting bar itself, this is a special treat. Seemingly, these impressive flavors might pose a real challenge when matched with wine. While in fact, Late Harvest Gewürztraminer proves to be a stunning compliment. A warm cup of Puttabong Estate Earl Grey Tea with its aromatic orange bergamot notes harmonizes perfectly with the ginger and orange flavors as well.

The Best Gift for Mom This Year.......Your Time.

Indeed, with Mothers Day looming, consider this unusual and exciting gift possibility- A combination of superb chocolates and coffees or teas. Avanti Savoia offers luscious Grand Crus, Pure Origin and Selection Blends from the Italian Chocolatier, Guido Castagna as well as Olivier Chocolates from France.

All of our wonderful new coffees from Vienna Coffee Company are excellent choices. However, for a genuine connoisseur mom, here is the opportunity to enjoy the adventure of experiencing the natural harmony of chocolates and coffees linked by geographic origin. For example, pair the bold flavors of Olivier’s Grand Cru Venezuela Dark Chocolate with the rich hints of chocolate and walnut in the Organic Peru Norte. Oliver’s Grand Madagascar is a natural with the Organic Ethiopian Yirgacheffe coffee. The Papua New Guinea Olivier is the obvious choice to enjoy with aromatic Papua New Guinea coffee.

A whole other world of flavor waits in matching coffees with Castagna’s Italian chocolates such as Whole Milk, Extra Fondente, Gianduja or the Granella di Fava. Having a hard time deciding? Olivier offers collections of 5, 7 or 8 different bars sure to delight a discriminating Mom’s palate.

The best Mothers Day gift of all is to be able to spend some personal time with your mom, so sit down with a cup of coffee and some chocolate and we guarantee it will be an appreciated and thoughtful offering!

Where My Love for "Cooking & Eating” All Began

By Don Vito De Carolis, Avanti Savoia’s Italian Partner

When I was a child (7 years old), my mother and my father did not return home from work until 7:00 o'clock at night. For this reason during after school hours and the summer vacation, I "worked" in a small food shop named "Il Pastificio" until I was 12 years old. The shop was owned by two unmarried sisters (Livia and Carla) who helped me with my school homework and taught me many things. My education included how to make fresh pasta, understand the difference between different qualities of dry pasta, how to boil vegetables preserving the original taste, and how to braise the meat for filling the Cappelleti. I also learned the best ingredients to make Agnolotti (fresh pasta filled with ham, parmesan cheese and spices) and Ravioli di magro (fresh large pasta filled with fresh ricotta and spinach).
My "job" was to clean the vegetables, turn the handles of the pasta maker and the meat mincer, filling the pastas, and to go with the older sister to shop for food stuff and deliver packages to the customer’s houses. This early "job" taught me good lessons about how to deal with customers by understanding their needs and give suggestions. I also helped them with cost analysis and pricing (it was an exscuse to improve my math skills). I started to love cats (they had 2 cats for hunting mouses) and I learned to work in a perfectly clean and well organize place.
During this time I was fascinated by them, and during the last year of my "work" they give me three books (that I still have in my library) to be prepared to be a smart teenager:
L' Esiliato dello spazio by Pierre Devaux - My first book of science-fiction (teaching me that there is no limit to travels, to be prepared for weird stuffs, and that humanity is one country)
I miserabili by Victor Hugo - My first book of Historical romance (to know the past is to understand the present and decide for the future and to know the meaning of Honesty/Passion/ Friendship)
Ricettario Carli Cav. by Amedeo Pettini - My first Cookbook (I now have several hundred cookbooks in my library from all over the world).

Now that I am almost 57 years old and have been travelling world wide for more than 37 years, I still thank these two sisters for all that they taught me about cooking and selecting first rate foods.

I hope that you will enjoy these favorite recipes from my past.

Vito

"Tajarin" di pasta fresca con sugo di pomodoro ( fine noodles with tomato sauce)

Ingredients: (*Available at Avanti Savoia)

Ingredients for the pasta:
500 g. (2.2lb.) Durum flour
5 eggs+ 3 yolks
2 Tblsp. of water
1/2 tsp. of Sel de Mer Sea Salt (fine) * #35021

Ingredients for the sauce:

1 lb. of fresh tomatoes, peeled and seeded
1 large yellow onion
1 medium carot
2 stalks of celery
1 clove of garlic
1/2 cup All Purpose Avanti Savoia Olive Oil* #19999
1/2 cup of butter
Sel de Mer Sea Salt (fine)* #35021 and Freshly Ground Black Peppercorns* #32000 to taste
5 Tblsp. of freshly grated "Parmiggiano Reggiano" cheese.

Recipe for pasta:

Beat together whole eggs, yolks and salt.
Put the durum flour in a large bowl, making a well in the center. Place the egg mixture in the center of the well. Using a fork, gradually pull the durum flour into the egg mixture. Stir until a loose mass forms. As the dough is mixed, adjust the consistency with additional flour or water.
Turn the dough out onto a floured (and if possible wooden) surface and knead until the texture has become smooth and elastic, about 9 to 10 minutes. Smooth and form the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and let the dough relax at room temperature for at least 1 hour.
Roll the pasta dough into very thin sheets and cut by hand with a large sharp knife into fine noodles or by using a pasta machine.

Recipe for sauce:

Clean the carrot, onion, celery and garlic and finely chop as for a brunoise.
Clean the fresh tomatoes and make a purée using a blender.
In a sauce pan at medium heat, warm the extra virgin olive oil and butter; add the chopped vegetables and sauté until lightly browned.
Add the tomato purée to the sauce pan, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and cook for 20 minutes.


Recipe:

1. In a large pot bring to boil 1.5 gallons of water, add 2 oz. of Sel de Mer Sea Salt (coarse)* #35022, and add the"Tajarin" fresh pasta. Lower the heat and cook for 5 minutes, stir occasionally with a wooden spoon. When it is cooked, drain and put in a warmed large salad bowl, add the sauce, mix well, add the parmesan cheese and serve immediately.




Il "Brasato perfetto” ( Perfectly Braised Beef)

Ingredients: (*available at Avanti Savoia)

3.5 kg. (7lb.) beef (Top blade or Chuck roast)
450g. "Prosciutto crudo" ham diced in large pieces (1 cubic inch)
2 1/2 cups of Beef stock ( 1 1/2 lb of beef shank - one medium carot - one large celery stalk - one large yellow onion - a sachet or bouquet garni made with 24 whole berries of black peppercorns*/12 cloves*/ 1 small cinnamon stick* wrapped in cheesecloth )
8 Tbsp of “Soffritto di Cipolle” (3 white large onions - 1/2 cup of All Purpose Avanti Savoia Olive Oil)
1/2 cup of butter
1 tsp. of freshly ground nutmeg* #32080
1 cup of dry red wine boiled for 10 minutes
1 tsp. Black Truffle Salt* #36002
1 tsp. Freshly Ground Green Peppercorns* #32005

Recipe for Beef stock

1. In a stockpot place one gallon of cold water, the beef shank, carot, celery, onion and the spice sachet.
2. Bring to boil, cover with a lid and reduce heat to medium. Simmer for 4 hours, skimming the surface as necessary.
3. After 4 hours strain all the ingredients and filter the stock through a linen cloth.
4. Boil the filtered stock until it is reduced to 2 1/2 cups of liquid.

Recipe for "Soffritto di cipolle":

Clean the onions and finely slice them.
Place the onions in a frypan with the All Purpose Olive Oil and simmer for one hour, add some water if it's drying to much and stir with a woodspoon frequently.
Put the"soffritto di cipolle" in a blender and procces to a smooth paste.

Recipe for the “Brasato Perfetto":

In a heavy cast iron pan, brown the beef with 1/2 cup of butter.
Remove the beef from the heavy pan and deglaze with the boiled dry red wine.
Add 2 ½ cups beef stock, 8 Tbsp of "Soffritto di cipolle" and the browned beef.
Place the heavy pan in the oven with a heavy cast iron lid and cook for one hour at 250F°.
Reduce the temperature at 140F° and simmer for 12(twelve) hours.
Remove the pan from the oven and let cool to room temperature always remaining covered with the lid.
Place the pan in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
Remove from refrigerator and skim off the grease.
Slice the beef 1/2 inch thick slices.
Add the beef slices to the heavy pan, add the freshly ground nutmeg, season with Black Truffles Salt and Ground Green Peppercorns. Scatter the diced "Prosciutto crudo" ham on the top of the beef, cover with the lid, place in the oven and cook for 6 hours at 180F°.
Cool to room temperature.
Before serving, remove the ham and warm the “Brasato Perfecto” over a low heat for 30 minutes.

Note:
A) Mashed potatoes is the suggested side dish for "Brasato perfetto”. B) All the beef and vegetables used to make the stock and the ham can be ground and used to make excellent meatballs and served as an appetizer.

Cook for the Cook

The Pleasures of Eating Someone Else’s Food

Although we still enjoy it, my wife and I do not entertain at home as much as we once did. Gail and I met at a large catering function at which I prepared the food, and she went on to become a student in my cooking classes. Needless to say, food has always been at the heart of our relationship and still is. Gail is a fine cook in her own right and is very accomplished at making pickles, jams, jellies and preserving other goodies from our garden. I’ve joked about my being “a pretend farmer on a pretend farm” many times, but her talent with fresh food is no joke.

In the early years of our marriage, I must admit that I really enjoyed “showing off” for my wife with elaborate dinner parties and my versions of culinary classics. As time went on the urge to impress her became less, even though from time to time we do still host friends at our table. Recently, we had the opportunity to have a young couple come to dinner as a “Thank-You” for a favor that they had done for us.

Dane and Astrid are a good deal younger than we are and I certainly anticipated a wide ranging and stimulating conversation. What was not anticipated was their offer to bring part of the dinner. Over the years it has been an ongoing disappointment to me that so many acquaintances have been intimidated to cook for me because of my status as a professional. I can’t count the times I’ve heard “Oh! I’d be afraid to have you over for dinner because you are a chef “or “we just eat simple food, and you wouldn’t like that” or some such disclaimer. Now, the truth is that I like simple, homemade food very much and I simply love to have someone else cook for me!

As it turns out, even though she has now received an education in another field, Astrid has experience working as a pastry chef. So, I think that helped her approach us with a pretty matter of fact attitude about dinner. I know it certainly was a surprise and a pleasure for us. After greeting us at our front door, Astrid zipped into the kitchen asking for a sharp knife and a cutting board and quickly went to work In short order, while Dane and I concentrated on opening wine and selecting music (Dane is something of a music historian), Astrid reappeared with a tray of luscious crostini topped with warm goat cheese and pears. Perfect for the occasion and perfect with the Masa Cannoli Pinot Grigio that I had selected.

Our contribution to the feast that evening was a simple green salad with a Lemon Vinaigrette and a good old bistro standby Beef Bourguignon. A loaf of homemade bread was on hand as well. Things got interesting when the Rosenblum Petite Syrah that I had selected reeked of “finger nail polish remover”, that is to say the presence of Ethyl Acetate and we had to switch to an alternative Petite Syrah by Bogel. The second wine was nice with the salad course and the beef and a flawed wine is always a good opportunity for a shared learning experience and discussion.

Astrid provided the dessert course of flawless, dreamy chocolate truffles flavored with cognac which demonstrated her confidence with chocolate. A Bonny Doon Framboise worked beautifully, as it usually does with just about any dark chocolate dessert.

What made the event so pleasant for us was the comfort and utter lack of pretension with which Astrid made her contributions. Not only did she cook for me but she also listened to my old culinary “war stories” with attention and interest. This was cool! We hope that you will enjoy Astrid’s Cognac Chocolate Truffles. The only change that we will make is to substitute one of our own Avanti Savoia products, Castagna Extra Fonente 61% Dark Chocolate. Great chocolate for a great truffle. Way to go, Dane!

Astrid’s Cognac Chocolate Truffles

Preparation time: 30 minutes to 1 hour plus cooling time
Servings: 25 to 30 pieces

Ingredients: (*Available at Avanti Savoia)

½ cup heavy whipping cream
2 Tblsp. unsalted butter
1 Tblsp. light corn syrup
9 ozs. Dark Chocolate Extra Fonente 61% by Castagna* #50015
2 Tblsp. Cognac
Cocoa powder for coating by Castagna* #50120

Recipe:
Combine cream, butter and corn syrup in a sauce pan and bring to a simmer, remove from heat and cool for about 5 minutes.
Break chocolate into small pieces and stir into the cream mixture. Stir until melted and add cognac.
Cool 2 to 3 hours at room temperature.
Whip truffle mix with an electric mixer, on medium for about 1 minute.
Use a mini ice cream scoop to shape truffles. Place truffles on a tray lined with parchment paper and chill for 1 hour.
Roll chilled truffles in cocoa powder and enjoy.

The real point I would like to make here is… Cook for the cooks in your life, I promise you that they will love it.

Bon Appetit Y’all!